ignition coil wiring

Ok. I've had this 86 2.0 for a week and am trying to figure out what the guy who had it before me did. I'm not getting any spark at all. I bought a blaster coil for it and need to make sure how to hook it up. My chiltons doesn't have a very good picture of how the wires go. there are 2 black/whites, a red/white, a white(i assume is the tach), and the 2 wires coming from the distributor. I picked up a used dist from the junkyard off of a slightly newer model and I'm hoping it will fit, if not I will try and swap the electronics from it to the old dist.

can I eliminate the resistor? could I use a resistor wire from the coil to the cap to eliminate the ballast resistor? I'm trying to simplify things in the engine bay

I think there is a Haynes manual in the manual section that will cover your truck. Look in the over 216 manuals post.
You should start with a stock setup and get it running first before trying to swap out with after market parts. You will need the ballast resistor in the system. There is also some older posts that people have pictures of the stock set up. Use the search at the top of the page, and be sure to look in the archive for more info and posts.

When I had a blaster coil I had to take the resistor out of the mix for the truck to run worth a dang.... lol ive seen it both ways tho.

Yeah a MSD blaster is an internal ballast so you can remove the external one.

ok, the manual on here doesn't give a good pic of the coil. it shows a couple wires, but there are 2 black/white with rings, a black/red, a white(tach), then the blue and black wires coming from the distributor. and then theres the resistor..... I've sifted through a bunch of the forums looking for a good pic to use. I've tried googling 86 mighty max coil wiring and came up empty...

I will go to my 86 2.0 and take good pics and draw out the hookup for you ... it won't be until Wensday at the earliest.

I'm in for this too, just bought a d50, and the previous owner had some weird coil that burnt out, with a weird resistor, so now im trying to figure out what goes where exactly. it seems he had some stuff on the wrong polarity, BUT, it did run. None of the manuals have a full diagram of the coil, and most dont even make mention of the resistor. its pretty sad that the FSM for an 84 montero only makes mention of the iginition coil's resistance, and never talks about it again. A picture is definitely worth a thousand words in this case.

I finally got it running. It turns out the distributor it had in it was garbage for whatever reason. I found a distributor in the "distributor room" at the local junkyard that looked like the gear was in the right place and the flange was also positioned correctly. The pickup was completely different, as were the lobes on the shaft. different cap and rotor as well. I think the rotor they sold me ended up being from an older nissan. anyways my buddy came over with his tester(cont/voltage) and we figured out the black wire needed to go to the + coil and the blue was the trigger wire and needed to go to the - side.. no resistor, stock metal can type coil. fired right up. now I need to tune the brand new weber 32/34 to my motor. so, to recap..... black goes to coil+, blue goes to coil-. tach(white wire with the ring terminal on it) to coil neg(i think), the switched wire(the black/white with the little boot on it) to coil+. I ripped out the old carb and all the vacuum lines and various sensors. I'm going to pull the computer and its related wires. My buddy is going to weld up the cracks in the exhaust manifold tomorrow.

When i pulled the manifold... really weird manifold... I guess it is the pre-cat, but big chunks of the catalytic matrix fell out in my hands, some melted, but damn... its freeflow now. is there any reason to save this stuff? does it have the platinum catalyst? is that a second cat below it on the exhaust pipe? should I check that one too? I mean if the pre-cat fell apart surely some of it went into the other cat below it.. if that IS indeed a second cat...

it does have a cat below the first one - the cat in the manifold is very valuable to a recycler - it has more precious metals in it than the new ones.

Really? I have a cat manifold from the 2.6. I also have a non cat manifold.

in 1980, the 49 states d-50s had 1 cat, calif trucks had 2. I have heard rumors that the 79 trucks had no cats, but I have never seen one that way.

Dude before you do all that, check the battery. i short circuited something a while ago, went thru everything and it turned out it was the battery, even tho all elecs, radio, starter kicked, had everything but no spark.
turns out it wasn't oscillating properly to build the charge to spark. change the battery with one you know works.
If no luv, post again and il upload the wiring patch sheet and take flics of mine. Ive gone thru this, spent money i didnt need to, it sucked horse balls.
Big smelly balls.

I need a picture too broke ballast resist

need picture of ballast resistor on fender of truck they unhooked wires need color of wires to reinstall on new ballast resistor 1987 mighty max 2.0 THANK U

I'm having a issue also hooking up the ignition coil to the distributer. It has a white/black wire and blue. How do I connect my ignition coil to my ignition for it to spark engine.

I'm having issue with spark, I have a ignition coil canister hooked up to distributer. There a black/white and a blue. The positive +terminal has the black/white and blue going to the negetive- and I have.a wire running g from ignition to positive terminal. Cranks but no start, very confusing on how to get it setup, lmk if somebody can give me some option and I can try hoom it up. Thanks Aloha

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

in 1980, the 49 states d-50s had 1 cat, calif trucks had 2. I have heard rumors that the 79 trucks had no cats, but I have never seen one that way.

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I picked a g63b and was told it had come from an 85. The paired port manifold has a huge chamber with a catalyst in it. Is that what you are speaking of? Also should I assume that while the engine may have come out of an 85 the manifold at the very least was from an 80s California motor?

Had to create a new account. Couldn't remember my login since my laptop crashed. Darn technology. Anyway......

I have a 1987 Dodge Raider/Mitsubishi Pajero with the 2.6. I am having issues with spark and have narrowed it down to the coil. I am planning on putting an aftermarket coin in it. This comes with a few questions.....

1. What type of coil has everyone had the best of luck with?

2. How do I go about it with all these extra wires (Most coils only have two posts from what I can tell)?

3. What type/model of spark plug has worked out the best for you (have used NGKs with stock coil/distributor)?

4. Any advice on what to watch out for?

Thanks in advance.

Personally I'd use a solid state/transformer type coil with NGK plugs. MSD/Accel coils are not only expensive but you hear that guys have had issues running them on truck ignition systems and distributors. I think it comes down to the load it puts on them. Bear in mind you need to keep the ballast resistor as part of the ignition or it'll bake something (might be a big part of the $$$ aftermarket coil fails...?) Do NOT use platinum or exotic plugs in an old Mitsubishi - it will cause running problems. Same with Motorcraft plugs (Mitsubishis seem to HATE them :shrug:) Your Mitsu may already have a 'T' type coil in it - just replace it with an OEM quality coil. Rule of thumb - coils usually last about 10 years before they start to break down and lose output (on a daily driver)

For a stock engine and tune - NGK BP5ES plugs. Maybe BP6ES if you are experimenting with timing advance and premium fuel and/or bolt on upgrades like a Weber, headers and a street cam.

NGK now sells can type ignition coils ~ here is one link results for 1986 Dodge Power Ram 50

https://www.ngk.com/application/search

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Originally Posted by geezer101

For a stock engine and tune - NGK BP5ES plugs. Maybe BP6ES if you are experimenting with timing advance and premium fuel and/or bolt on upgrades like a Weber, headers and a street cam.

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Interesting, US-market trucks seem to specify the BPR6ES, which is the colder plug, probably related to US smog tuning.

^I'd second that. The recommendations for plugs in 4G52/54 and G63B engines for the Oz market states a BP5ES plug. I'd personally go for a colder plug BUT that might also be due to conditions here as well. Oz has a tendency to get a little toasty in summer lol... And I've always tried to use NGK 'R' plugs when I could get them.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

I've always tried to use NGK 'R' plugs when I could get them.

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...and that would be the 'R' in the BPR part of the plug code (BPR5ES/BPR6ES), just means it has an integrated resistor to suppress ignition-generated RF noise we'd hear through the radio or our cell phones. RF can also interfere with ECUs and other electronics, so they're generally a good idea on any vehicle equipped with any electronic components whatsoever.