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Hey everyone, I have a couple alternator question for all you smoke blowers out there :P
For those who've done a higher output unit, did you leave the factory wiring or do a larger charge wire? My FSM does not show all the splices on the charge wire so if I can use the factory stuff it'd be ideal.
Last one is about the vacuum pump;
Does it have an oil feed or just the oil return? I can't remember what mine used to look like before I pulled it out.
Thanks all for reading
it has a oil feed and return. The 4d56 is a 90a bolt on unit, you just gotta make sure you get matching pulley for it. Also that you do not have the ranger 4d55, the ranger has all one off stuff
Okay that means the small line connection is the supply, I just need to look at the bottom of the filter block for a connection. Thanks skullzaflare, I assume you put the 4D56 alternator on yours? All my Stuff is Mitsubishi so no worries there, did you just run the factory wiring when you did the swap?
Thanks again
I feel :shakehead:
I just realized that the feed is supposed to be a banjo fitting that goes in place of the bolt that is hodling the new copper washers in place. Now to figure out where I stashed the old parts (I know I saved the vacuum pump off the old alternator, where is the question).
The simple things in life that make you feel like a retard:shrug:
I had a 4d56 in my ram50, so i started with the 90a, but its the same bolt up. You WILL however need to change the alternator pigtail, your current alt is 35a or 45a. I swapped mine into a 2nd gen that came with a 2.0, had the same alternator connections
Correct on all counts, 45a original and I already have a pigtail from a 90's eclipse that fits like a charm. My worry was about the fusible link for the 45a alternator being used with the new unit
Does anyone have a picture of where the supply hose comes off the the filter block? I believe it is on forward side of the block just behind where the filter sits
Quick update, I got the alternator and vacuum pump in, wired, and plumbed. I wound up making my own oil feed hose but looks great and can be rebuilt if it ever leaks. Unfortunately I am now forced to find a solution to the oversized california emissions oil filter problem as my shnazzy new vacuum pump is in the way (boo). So rather than post a new thread I'll just keep it here for until I get some of the legwork on this project done.
Does anyone know if the tube of that goes to the center of the oil filter is removable from the filter block? I am looking at ways to build a remote filter adapter but finding m30x2mm threaded fittings, or anything other than heavy equipment filters, is rather difficult. using the base of an old filter may be the best option, I know how to weld and know some peeps with lathes and such.
Comments and suggestions (or a quick solution ;)) are always welcome
Thanks everybody
-B
Another update;
Longer belt solved the clearance issue (WOOHOO!), truck is alive and well. Now on to the next task. I will still look at making a remote filter mount or a sandwich adapter to use a more readily available oil filter but for I have three monsters and running truck so I'm good.
Thank you to those that contributed.
For those that are interested, The belt I used was a Napa NBH 2522434, 15mm wide 36 degree 1117mm long. this crosses to a Gates TR22434 or a Delco T22434. The OE belt was to short to even get on the stock alternator with either of the anchor bolts in so two birds with one stone :thumbup:
-B
Yeah that belt was a bit of a pain for me to match as well. The one on it when I got it was definitely wrong, way too loose. Then I tried the parts store but their computer kept giving the ac belt for the alternator belt. Then tried to just match a v belt at the tractor supply but get it a bit smaller, kind of worked, but the v was too deep. Finally, ordered all the ones claiming alternator belt on rock auto and got 2/4 that fit and work correctly.
I noticed that, normal parts houses only list power steering and A/C. At least Rockauto now specifies the alternator belt.