Clutch is going out but can't afford to buy a new one yet. How do I tighten the cable clutch? It was done once before but cannot remember how to readjust it.
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Clutch is going out but can't afford to buy a new one yet. How do I tighten the cable clutch? It was done once before but cannot remember how to readjust it.
If it's the cable type, open the hood and against the firewall grab the clutch cable and pull it away from the cab like your going to pull it out. Spin the adjusting nut so there is about 1/8 in of play between the nut and the rubber nut locker on firewall.
See below
Attachment 8415
I did everything but it didn't help. Does that mean in need a new clutch? It slams into gear on reverse and I have to force it into 1st and 2nd gear.
check to see if the firewall is flexing where the Cable adjuster is...(takes 2 people) that could be an issue, otherwise, the cable is stretched, you can replace it for about $35, orthe clutch is so worn, there isn't any adjustment left, which means you will have to replace the clutch, pressure plate and have the Flywheel re-surfaced.
I had similar problem with my 93 I thought it was the cable but it was the "clutch relief fork". It was bent maxed out on my cable adjustment clutch wouldn't fully disengage had to order a new one from Mitsubishi. Make sure that lever that at the end of the cable isn't bent or cracked.
Last night the clutch cable snapped. How do I reinstall a new one? I need a diagram or instructions. Some piece snapped inside the firewall and my clutch went limp.
link to manual on his site http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Fact...-1983-1993.zip
Section 8 deals with the clutch, pages 8-4 & 8-5 the cable replacement. even has pictures...
get the part from a Mitsubishi dealer when the Dodge dealer says he doesn't have one.
Good luck
I can't open the link.
The forks are obsolete from mitsubishi of north america now. PM me in the future if anybody needs as I have brought these in from Mitsubishi of Japan.Quote:
Originally Posted by mylittleshitty
Clutch cable fixed. Truck runs at 200% compared to what it used to. Thanks everyone for the support and help.
I have had similar problem. I was sick, couldn't climb under truck. I took it my local garage. They let some guy who apparently escaped rehab work on it , clutch replacement. He put as many parts back in incorrectly as I could imagine. Little truck ran anyway. I will look closely at clutch relief fork. Currently I am stretching 2 to 3 clutch cables to the snapping point per year.Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by mylittleshitty
If you're going through clutch cables that fast, check all your main ground straps/cables, esp. the ones between the block, frame and body. If those grounds are missing, broken or deteriorated, the clutch and/or throttle cable can become a ground path, rapidly fatiguing the cable until it snaps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graydog
You bring parts from Japan -- WAY COOL DUDE..! :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by mikewarme
Yesterday evening the clutch cable broke on the end connected to the clutch lever under the truck..! God musta been watching over me coz it happened when leaving the MCBH Five O Motors... Manager Chad pushed the truck into an outdoor covered stall for storage until a new cable arrives... Mechanic Clint drove me home too, no tow truck or taxi needed..!
Will try to buy a Mitsubishi cable or Rock Auto, ebay part..! Hopefully no other part is causing trouble (clutch fork, pressure plate?) The clutch was replaced 20k miles ago at Beale AFB military exchange garage for $875.00 a reasonable price in 2013...
NOTE: About one week of shifting gears required pushing clutch pedal very firmly into the floorboard before the cable snapped :questionmarks:
UPDATE: Ordered from Rock Auto ATP brand cable (last one) $18.18 DHL shipping $42.00 arrives July 5th ~ $63.00 FedEx arrives July 1st ~ went with the DHL coz I'm only a millionaire not a billionaire sheech... Two ebay sellers list aftermarket cables as well and no OEM Mitsubishi cables exist according to Jason @ Donn Herring Mitsubishi Dallas, TX
I tried to adjust my clutch cable and got so confused!! In the engine bay I pull at the cable near the firewall. It doesn't budge. I see the ridged lock ring should maybe pull away from the little dots on the stopper that prevent it from spinning?? I tried spinning the whole works and it does spin together but I don't understand what's happening.
I have the issue where it's super difficult to get my 94 MM into 1st gear and reverse gear. 1st is the worst. It causes me anxiety at stoplights when someone is behind me, I find first and keep it there with foot on clutch pedal. It's exhausting because I'm short. Lol. And I read that it's bad to just hold it like that. I remember my 84 toyota corolla and how easy it was to shift and I sorely miss those days.
Can anyone walk me through this? I also looked under the clutch pedal to see what I could do. Chilton says when clutch pedal is pressed all the way. there should be 2.4" minimum clearance to the floor. Mine presses all the way to the floor.
KCKC my truck 1986 no OEM clutch cables available so I ordered an aftermarket cable from Rock Auto ~ the old & new cable lengths looked same but my original cable could be easily pulled away from the firewall rubber grommet ~ this new cable has zero slack like the original ~ to adjust for more clutch I turn the star adjuster nut clockwise which pulls the cable towards the engine bay (away from the firewall) this new cable requires a bar and hammer to smack the star nut to tighten enough to make changing gears easy & it requires frequent adjusting ~ something is different ~ all else with my clutch pedal is adjusted ok ~ hope this helps...
As any clutch wears, that takes up free-play in the release mechanism, so it's better to err towards adjusting it a bit too loose, rather than too tight.
The star nut for cable adjustment should leave at least a few mm of free-play room when you tug the cable housing away from the firewall. The more slack you allow, the less often it will need adjustment to add more free-play, but too much slack can result in the clutch never fully disengaging at all, resulting in hard gear shifting, low RPM or stalling-out in gear with the clutch pedal down, and increased wear on the clutch. Adjusted too tight, that'll soon result in the clutch never fully engaging, causing slippage and increased clutch wear.
KCKC, also consider changing the gear oil in your transmission; it's possible a PO filled it with GL-5 oil, which can result in poor shifting and increased wear; sadly, that's also pretty much the only type of gear oil commonly stocked at most auto-parts chain stores. I know the owner's manual says "GL-4 or higher", but that was printed before GL-5 was even a thing, and that later spec turned out to require some additives that tend not to play nice with some older transmissions like ours (too slippery for the syncros to work efficiently, and can corrode yellow-metal components over time).
Redline MTL/MT-85/MT-90 is an excellent synthetic GL-4; pricey, but one fill will probably outlast the life of the vehicle. For KCMO latitude, I'd say go with the MT-85.
Rock Auto had 2 part #s for the clutch cable one for RWD & one for 4X4 difference being 1" length shorter (?) for the 4X4 who knows if thats what they really sent ~ I compared new & old cables at install they looked same lengthwise and all BUT they sure don't adjust the same ~ it takes all the effort I can muster to tighten the star nut towards the FW to get the truck to shift mmmm
I figured out there's just no more adjustment to my cable and it still shifts kind of okay when I put the pedal all the way to the floor. Guess I'll wait for it to really break before I break it trying to fix it Lol
IMHO best not wait ~ get a new cable installed ASAPQuote:
Originally Posted by KCKC Amy
As the cable "breaks in", that will only make it even looser as the housing compresses slightly and the cable itself stretches slightly, resulting in even less clutch disengagement.Quote:
Originally Posted by KCKC Amy
One thing occurs to me now: there should be a rubber bushing, about a 1/4" thick and sandwiched between washers, between the adjuster star nut and the firewall fitting where the cable passes thru. Has that bushing perhaps gone missing?