Holley 500? Anyone?

Just thought i would ask if anyone has done a holley 500 conversion on a g54b? I have a weber but i would like if i could drive down to baxters and get jets for cheap instead of getting them off line for a good amount of money. I bought a weber kit for the truck from webercarbsdirect, honestly that carb was TRASH It had a dead spot that i just could not tune out of it, when looking at the idle jets screws on the sides of the carb they are drilled or tapped sideways. Did anybody else notice this about there carbs from them? I get around 13 mpg around town. I jetted it down and that didn't really do anything at all. But one other thing i noticed about it too is when i shut the truck off and take off the vaccume cap on the bottom of the intake manifold a good amount of fuel would come out. WTF. I have a airtex fuel pump 3psi-5psi of pressure pump part number E8016 i think, has a holley fuel pressure regulator. Set float level how weber says to set it and everything still does it. Any info would be highly appriciated.

The holley 500 is way too much for a stock motor - a 32 / 36 dgev weber is 375 cfm. That carb, as you know, is total crap and it will never work right - others have fought with them and got their money back. I have seen people take and modify the intake and run a holley 390 4 bbl carb on a 2.6, but that is really good only for a modded motor.

Hey man thanks for the info! Yeah I knew something was up with that carb. Wish I would have known that those carbs were junk before I went and bought one. Oh well, hey btw penny I was reading a fourm that we can use some rocker arms off a v6 motor that are roller tip, what motor is that spacificly? Id like to get my hands on some of them. Thanks again

that is the 3.0 v6 - it will work on the 2.6 with hydraulic lifters and as an added bonus, it gives you a 1.6 rocker arm ratio vs the stock 1.5. Common swap on starquest forum for the 2.6

3.0 mits motor what years? Ummmm is it a roller for the cam? Thank you again haha :grin:

I am pretty sure it is all years 80s and 90s - even the old mopar k-cars with the 3.0 v6 if you can find them in the jys anymore ( think dynasty, spirits, lebaron converts, shadows, etc)

Thanks penny only one more question, what kind of jetting do you recommend for a made in spain weber haha I have 145's in both main jets seems to be running lean but I have bought a couple jetting kits from lce cause its cheaper, there really expensive for a couple pieces of brass, haha if you could give a ballpark I might be able to buy just individual jets and air correctors

that is a tough one to answer without knowing how your motor is setup. Read the plugs - the ideal color is a light tan. Black is rich, white is lean. is it a 32/36 dgev or 38 dges?

Sheet I wish it was a 38, its a 32/36 its got a header thats about it, 200 feet above sea level. Still got jet valves if that makes any difference. It has been pinging alot lately too. Is thia because of the jet valve or maybe cause its running lean? It doesnt do anything if I retard the timing, I have a weber so it should stop the flow to the jet valves? Thanks again

Wish my truck was closer to sea level, I bet the power gain from the 2100 foot level would be noticeable. If you had problems with manufacturing of the Weber Carb, don't hesitate to return it for a replacement. They are not real cheap, but rebuilding can be done in an hour and a half and they actually setup rather easy. Make sure everything is in sync with timing and stuff and you should have good luck. Usually with the weber when you add a header it needs to be re-jetted to be a little richer from prior the header install. You should get better mileage with a 32/36 also from the 38. The progressive opening on the 32/36 has the smaller primary and around town is an advantage compared to the 38.
If your pinging your engine, you need to raise your octane maybe.

The fuel/air mixture takes a split second to burn fully, so ignition should occur a few degrees before the piston rises fully to the top of the cylinder. We call this ignition timing and the engine computer precisely controls the instant at which the spark occurs. With pre-ignition, spontaneous combustion of the fuel/air mixture, before the spark ignites it, causes a more violent explosion. This is where the term pre-ignition originates. Ignition of the fuel and air occurs before the ignition system lights it.

When the fuel/air mixture explodes prematurely, the force created tries to drive the piston down the cylinder, while the crankshaft is forcing it up. A characteristic "pinging" is often heard, due to the forces in the engine. A pinging noise on acceleration is a symptom of pre-ignition. Left untreated pre-ignition can severely damage an engine. The excessive pressure developed can damage pistons and cause head gasket failure. Many things cause pre-ignition and correction always depends on finding and correcting the cause(s).

Are you using some cheap fuel station that puts crap additives and ethanol or whatever. I hate to see you grenade your engine or a head gasket from the problem. I hope you don't have any funky 4 or 3 pronged spark plugs either. Use the basic NGK is best bet. Anyway, here is a pretty informative page on that knock and pinging stuff. It should help get you diagnosed or on the right direction.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/60

Yeah, I would like to know why its pinging I usually use chevvron premium fuel, and not all the time but sometimes I will some good octane booster. I always use premium due to this pinging but it doesn't really make a difference. Hoping to get this figured out, I usually tinker with things until im satisfied with how its running. Im rarely satisfied haha

Also my engine likes to run-on, (diesel backwords) it's extremely annoying as it destroys the cotton air filter on the weber. The truck did this a good amount with the stock mikuni on it too. How can i stop this from happening i have tried alot of stuff to stop if from changing fuel pressure to the fuel level in the carb bowl. And also re-jettting it and tuning it several times to try to get it to stop, it doesn't do it as much but it still does it every once in a while...

try running a bottle of red line synthetic fuel system cleaner through the tank - it will clean out all the carbon buildup off the valves and combustion chambers. then run sta-bil ethanol fuel treatment - 1 oz to 10 gallons of fuel to keep it clean. Also clean out the egr valve and passages in the intake to get it to breathe better.

I'll do that! Good thing I work at a parts warehouse haha