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I have searched but to no avail. I am in the process of wire tuck and general cleaning under the hood and since the weber install i cannot for the life of me figure out what i need to keep and what i can bypass/eliminate. fyi 2.0 man. weber 32/36. All vac line and box on drivers side inner fender. What do i need to keep? Im not needing autochoke and im in North Carolina so no emissions
All you need is the PCV line that goes from the PCV valve to the manifold.
The line that goes from the air cleaner to the valve cover.
The vacuum booster line to the manifold.
The line that goes to the advance to the carb.
the box on the fender can go - no need with the weber
Awesome, Thanks buddy great info.
Will be able to work on it some more this weekend.
we need pics!
I live in NC myself. (Wake Forest) So here is the skinny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymar Garage
By law you are "emissions exempt" (the tailpipe emissions are no longer sniffed) BUT THE EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT CANNOT BE TAMPERED WITH. PERIOD. They have to be in place but they are not required to work. I went through this in April of this year. Take it to the bank.
You may find a shop that does not enforce the rules, but it's only a matter of time before they get popped by the DMV enforcement division.
The EGR, air pump apparatus, evaporative emissions system, PCV system, and cat all have to be in place. If it's not in place, then you have to be able to prove to DMV you spent $200.00 bucks at an authorized shop to get it in compliance.
That's the law and that's what I went through this spring. Sorry.
^thanks for that info, Sorry for your troubles getting inspected. I use to be an inspector when i was a tech at a dealership and know some of the in and outs. I might have a "friend" or 2 that can help me out.
Some pics, hopefully by today it will be cleaned up much more than it is. Wire tuck will follow after getting it running perfect.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps40ce0f91.jpg
Now, wtf is this and it diesels when i cap these off. I didnt have the advance line ran but can someone enlighten me about what to do with these?
Thanks
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9de6580d.jpg
I finished up the header and installed the other day. All welded up and painted
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...pse91239f6.jpg
I'd be happy any day of the week opening up an engine bay and seeing something this clean. That vacuum barb 'tree' that's on the factory inlet manifold shouldn't be allowed to pull air if it's not hooked up to anything, it's just creating a manifold leak. Have you tried connecting the electric auto choke and seeing if that solves your dieseling problem (if it's not opening it'll cause the engine to run rough once it's warmed up)
I have to wonder why it's not idling at 2500 RPMs with those open intake manifold vacuum ports. LOL.
These motors are prone to dieseling...it's just characteristic of them. I have tried the idle cut-off solenoid from Weber on the primary idle jet to eliminate the dieseling but not both idle jets. Makes sense to me it requires two to be installed. Haven't tried it yet.
Rymar Garage, once you've got the carby working properly I'd recommend removing the vacuum barb and screwing a bung into there to block it off. It'll look neater and inconspicuous. That being said, if originalowners' statement is correct, I don't know how you're going to get on with removing any of the vacuum lines if you've changed carbies and those lines are redundant. The only other option I can see id finding an earlier 4G63 inlet manifold that doesn't have any of the junk hanging off it...
I ended up pulling motor as the head gasket had a small leak. I pulled the entire motor to do some better cleaning/polishing and painting.
Few questions though that i am still not quite getting,
Ideas:
I want to get block off plates for the following and you tell me your thoughts.
Both the trees on intake mani
Mech Fuel pump block off, also removing rockier arm should not affect anything correct? did this same thing on a sbc and had no negative effect.
egr block off
While i have the motor pulled i will be doing rings and bearings. Anything I else i should really be on the lookout to replace while its out? Anything special about this engine during a rebuild i should be aware of?
You should be able to find a grub screw/bung from a hydraulics shop that will be suitable for deleting the vacuum barb trees. Taking out the actuator rod from the fuel pump will not have any detrimental side effects. There are a couple of ways to deal with the EGR set up ranging from blocking it at the EGR port on the head and refitting the manifold over it, removing the EGR valve from the inlet manifold and making a block off plate out of a scrap of sheet alu or something more extreme like completely cutting the EGR gallery off the inlet manifold (this is more of a cosmetic thing as it makes the inlet manifold look so more streamlined and uncluttered - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ntake-manifold
silent shaft bearings or a delete kit
great thanks, I pulled the motor yesterday and yea between carbon build up on cylinders and head gasket being OEM from 86-87 its time for a rebuild. No scaring on the cylinder walls which is a plus. Honestly i am toying with the idea of 5.3l (327) or older 350sbc. I will rebuild and show shine and polish the stocker but if i run across a good deal on a sbc and trans I will jump on it. I have a little girl on the way so not to sure what the wife will think if i spend lump sums on this project.
Either way i will rebuild stock is what i am saying, and the next question is where to go to get:
Metal headgasket or best one available
need bearings and rings
Is a balance shaft eliminator kit even worth doing?
Cleaned up the motor after rebuild. Having a really hard time finding a Oil Filter Housing, any insight on where to order one? Is there a head gasket brand to avoid? I know better than to run a fel-pro.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps299e635f.jpg
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps41f70bc1.jpg