Printable View
im new to this and the truck lol.. but here it goes my brother called around about the carb in my 87 power ram, and no body and i mean NOBODY wants to touch it just because of the carb thats in it, and they all said to buy a weber conversion kit for...but heres the twist we were able to find someone who rebuilts these carbs and said NOT to buy a weber cause it will blow the motor in 3 months or so, my question is it true???
if the carb is set up correctly(not lean) then it will be 99% better from all I read here. I just ordered a weber for mine and cannot wait to get it running correctly finally. Some of the OG members can tell you better
hmm, well its $400 total for the weber and all the tuning and such with it, or spend $289 to have it rebuilt which the guy said he knows all about them and keeps the og parts to them
Putting a weber on will not do any damage aslong as its tuned correctly. Theweber will get you a little more hp and probably a little better mpg too.
thats what i read, but imma end up keeping this truck for a long time anyway. so what ill do is just have it rebuilt and save up the extra money if i want a weber put on it later down the road, i just know that the carb is the only thing thats wrong with the truck. its a nice lil truck for $700, im trying to fix it up with what extra i get from my check.
I have had a Weber carb on Geronimo for 30 years and he is still running strong. It was tuned by a friend of mine that is a weber expert with exotic cars.
only problem is that ive heard positive and negative things about the weber
When it comes to carb's you have 2 choices. The stock carb you can't tune or do anything to. Or put on a weber and pick up some jets and tune it. It's is sooooo much easer to work with then the stock one. Just you will need to put in an electric pump and regulator. Pick up a jet smaller and larger when you find one. Once you put it on you can adjust it by looking at the plugs or pick up a wide band gage and put it in the truck and adjust from there. My weber has run for over 25 years and never had a problem once I got it adjusted for where I ran it at.
I have had a Weber since 88 or 89. Originally a 32/36 then probably 18 years ago moved up to 38mm dges. Much better carb. Buy all the stuff from TopEnd Performance N. Hollywood CA. A bit more expensive, but specialize in our trucks and the Conquest. When I put on the Weber, I also installed an AC EP42S electric fuel pump they recommended. Runs well, howver will be installing a set of the Mikuni 44PHH sidedrafts ona Mikuni manifold as I get time. Found an N.O.S. manifold and almost new carbs and linkage a few years ago.
I would be leery of anyone who said they have had success rebuilding the stock carbs. It just doesn't happen with any degree of success.Quote:
Originally Posted by rogueson91
The problem is there are plastic parts (bakelite actually) that crack and cause internal air leaks that no rebuilding will fix and most of the time the cracks cannot be seen with the naked eye. My personal mechanic cut his teeth on Mitsu's and actually preformed the PDI on my truck and worked on it while it was still under warranty. At this point in his career he is a master Ford tech for gas and diesel. In other words I trust and believe anything he says.
There are two things which give an advantage to the stock carb. They were equipped to automatically adjust (raise) the idle when the A/C compressor cycled on and off, and to also shut the fuel off at the carb when the ignition key was turned off. This prevents run on and dieseling which they are very prone to do. I have to kill it by popping the clutch which is a PIA but if you set the idle speed where you can just switch the key off, the idle is way way too fucking low, esp. with the A/C on. Believe me on that. There is no happy median and when you get down to it, I have the screw turned all the way out, and it idles at 1000. The stocker it was just set it at 750 with the A/C off. To be fair to the stock carb, mine practically drove like it had EFI it was so smooth. (It lasted 275,000K before it took a dump.) The Weber has neither of those features, which really helps you if the truck is a daily driver.
All that said, the Weber by nature will require a little fiddling at the time of the install, but once you do that, it's basically "set it and forget it."
I noticed no difference in either MPGs and performance and driveability between the two.
you can get a fuel shut off solenoid for a weber, try webercarbdirect or redline. As for the idle bumpup feature, that was an addon to the original carb when the dock or dealer installed the A/C kits - all A/Cs were installed once they hit the USA either a Lone Star or Frigette kit sold through Mopar parts. I tried to install the idle solenoid on Geronimo after I put on the Weber, but could not get it to work the same as the original carb, so I ran without it.
ok i have a weber 38dges carb on a power ram 50 4x4 with a 2.6l bored over blck decked and head decked how many mpg should i be lookin at ?
and btw if uf looking at a weber, the 38dges will change the hole vehicle power is amazing how much it came up
Darn ethanol just kills old carbs.
mpg?? 38dges?
How many are you getting now? Some guys get between 18 -28. There are lots of variables. The big one is how you drive. I always got about 22. My build truck gets about 6 now. But it will get better as the engine breaks in and I come up with the proper fuel mix and tune it in. It's a Chevy V6
im thinking about 20mpg and also another ?n, if the rpm are uo and im full throttle it pulls good but if im luggin like 4th or 5th gear 0- 1/4 throttle pulls good but soon as i hit it full throttle it pulls less hard then 1/4 throttle
Add a cam and a header to it and it will really run - Oregon Cam grinders have several to choose from, also TEP has one or two for carb motors. The performance you describe sounds like the 38 bog people get when a 38 dges is installed out of the box on an otherwise stock motor. Rejetting will help, but the right cam and a header is the only real solution.
what cam and header is the best?
HKS another good cam grinder
but do thay do a 2.6 carb motor - they used to do turbo conquests with efi. Schneider cams is another choice.