replacing gas tank recon

Hi all,
So my gen 1 (1986) sat with a bit of water in the tank for about 4 years before I got her.
She died in rout the other day and I had her towed to the shop I like. After talking with the guys I'm thinking there's probably a problem with junk in the tank, they're still looking around to make sure. I've seen guys clean them out with marbles and CLR, and i'm sure my shop would fix it all for a price......
my question: for a novice, how difficult is it to replace the tank? looks like I can get a new one for about $150/$200 I don't have a lift, will jack stands get it up off the ground enough to drop the tank? and what about fuel lines? are those tricky to clean out? Any and all advice is appreciated. I haven't found any good youtube vids so if you have recommendations I'd appreciate it.
-Kelly

This actually isn't a 'terrible' job to do - you just have to allow ground clearance to work. A shop jack or scissor jacks with axle stands will do the job (I've done it myself) The worst part is eating dirt lol. There will be plenty of it encrusted around the mounts and top half of the tank. There is a risk of screws etc being completely frozen up with rust and dirt so blast as much of it off as you can before having a shot at it. Be careful with the filler neck hose - no replacing it if you split or cut it accidentally. I'd replace the return and pick up hoses with stuff cut 'off the roll' from an auto shop. Don't disassemble the breather hoses from the top of the tank unless you're buying a new one and it's not part of the replacement tank. And it helps to support the tank while undoing the nuts mounting it up in place. A jack and a block of wood will keep it pinned while you work and use the same method to install the tank so your hands are kept free to work.

Fuel lines - you will need compressed air to clean any solid debris out. Connect it from the engine bay end and blow it back towards the tank (obviously do this after you've dropped the tank) Flushing them out has risks, but I think it's the only way to be sure. I would use one of those air gun washing attachments with a pot full of fuel and blow it through from the engine bay end. This is strictly an 'outdoors away from ignition sources' deal as spraying atomised fuel is dangerous at the best of times (even disconnect the battery as a precaution...)

thats great to hear and sounds doable.
follow up question: i'm debating getting a new tank entirely. there are a bunch of tanks on ebay that say 83-85. is there a reason they wouldn't fit an 86? first gen. was 83-86.... right? what could have changed?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1983-19...IAAOSwoCFd8fJ4

There is probably an over-lap date of manufacture from Gen 1 to Gen 2. If you've got an early Gen 2 truck 'built' in 86 it'll have a different configuration. If you are either curious or desperate I'd go to a JY and get a look at a Gen 2 tank. Tape measure and phone in hand to record dimensions and reference pics. Can't say it's 'impossible' to modify a Gen 2 tank to fit, but a nut and bolt swap saves headaches...

BACKGROUND NOTE #1: Kelly ~ NO distributor vacuum advance actuator is listed for 1985 & 1986 Dodge Ram50 trucks ~ BUT 1987 & 1989 actuators fit perfectly on my 1986 Dodge Ram50 with Mitsubishi distributor...

BACKGROUND NOTE #2: Maybe your truck died from a flooding condition & not fuel starvation..? It happened to me flooding felt like it ran out of gas as it died... Have you got spark..? Have you got gas squirting from the accelerator pump action (gas cap on & off..?) Gas gauge is acurate..?

My 1986 Dodge Ram50 Owners Manual shows fuel tank capacity either 15 or 18 gallons for the 2.0L engine but only 18 gallon fuel tank on the 2.6L engine

Fat chance the 1985 fuel tank will fit your truck ~ have fun finding out for sure ~ hope for an answer here quick :thumbup:

Got access to a boroscope (?) that is safe for explosive use; maybe your tank is clean inside..?

Meanwhile get out the tape measure & Google too... A rotten tank should be replaced, right..?