Wont Idle

Hey guys,

I have a 1984 D50 2.6 4x4

Weber 36/36 carb, yes its a 36/36,,some kind of odd ball.
Hooker Full length competiton header.
2 1/4 Exhaust to a Thrush Welded Muffler.

Heres the problem:
Car wont idle,,,will for a little bit then cuts out.
When you punch it, it has a flat spot. Higher end of RPM range rocks,,low end stumbles
She is running way to rich.
I tried to lean her out on the carb but it does nothing...I think i am running way beyond rich.

Now, I think i dont have enough spark,,,it is still all stock.
Does anyone have any suggestion (Cheap) to get a hotter spark,,,
Coil options?
Wire options?


I would hate to tune down the carb with a new jet,,,I think it would be better to get the spark up to par first then adjust timing and carb.

Let me know what you think.

ACE

Is that carb a progressive or a synchro? I ask because it sounds a lot like how mine runs when I have my 38/38 on it. Beastly when you open it up, pretty crappy otherwise.

IF it is a synchro, yer right, yer getting too much fuel. But aside from getting the world's leanest jets, it really needs more bore, cam, and valve to make it able to use all that fuel up (at a minimum).

If it's progressive, might just need a rebuild and have the jets set to the engine. Shouldn't be that terrible, Webers easy to work on.

Edit: I'm also already running an MSD ignition, along with a small list of performance tweaks on the long block. Still lack a cam. No idea if that info helps, but might, so I did.

are you running the stock mechanical fuel pump or an electric one? stock one has too much pressure and will flood the carb with fuel. Also check the float level in the carb and the needle/seat for dirt or debris holding it open.

I am running a 36/36 I believe it is the same as a 32/36 which is progressive...Right?

Also i am running the original fuel pump....I was thinking of just buying one of those $24 pressure regulators for now and then buy the electric later on down the road...Do you think that will help.

Fuel lines and carb are all cleared out just redid tank and new fuel filter.

Also i am running 91 Octane.

Using a simple pressure reg on the manual fuel pump will kill the pump in short order due to back pressure - use a differential reg that sends the excess pressure to the tank. We need pics to see which carb you have - a progressive has 2 arms that one activates the other afetr it moves 2/3s travel - a synchronous has 2 geared levers that make both throttle plates move in unison.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Using a simple pressure reg on the manual fuel pump will kill the pump in short order due to back pressure - use a differential reg that sends the excess pressure to the tank. We need pics to see which carb you have - a progressive has 2 arms that one activates the other afret it moves 2/3s travel - a synchronous has 2 geared levers that make both throttle plates move in unison.

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In that case it is progressive.

My mechanical fuel pump has the excess pressure return back to the tank built on it.
I was thinking of just buying the Mr. Gasket reg, then just put it in line to the carb,
I thought the return on the mechanical would still do its basic function.

Others on here have tried that and killed the pump every time. It hydrolocks the pump and blows the diaphram.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Others on here have tried that and killed the pump every time. It hydrolocks the pump and blows the diaphram.

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I was hoping for a cheap fix.
Do you have any suggestions on fuel pumps. What should i look for?

Thanks
Andy

Have you lowered the float level yet? Do that first, then worry about the pump later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camoit

Have you lowered the float level yet? Do that first, then worry about the pump later.

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Thanks,,,

No, I am going to see if its the float is at 1 1/2".


Check out my albums,,i just uploaded some recent pics.
I am currently rebuilding my front suspension and trying to get the carb sorted out.

Thanks again,

Shake