Just picked up my first truck 1989 power ram 50

well I'm a vw guy have a jetta and a couple gti's (mk3 stuff) but I live in a very rural area and have wanted/needed a truck for a long time.

I went to look at a wrecked blazer and fell in love with this thing sitting a couple cars down rotting away...

1989 "dodge" ram 50 4x4 2.6l 5-speed.

it runs but has major engine knock due to the oil pump going out. so now I'm researching trying to figure out my best way to go about getting it back on the road.

I've been unable to locate them anywhere and when calling salvage yards asking for a ram 50 engine I've literally been laughed at and told "goodluck"

what are the guidelines of an engine from another vehicle that I can use. Upon reading I hear a lot about narrow/wide and something about it can't be from an auto car? .... I'm not sure if I really want to admit what I paid for it... but if someone wants to mention what they think would be a good price I'll confess...


http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...229_115218.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...229_115339.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...302_154533.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...302_154702.jpg

Nice looking truck, it that spar parts I see in the back?
If she has a knock rip it out of there and find the problem. Or look in the for sale area for another 2.6L They should be a dime a dozen at the wreaking yards. What state are you in? The 2.6L is the most common engine for these trucks. You can find them in Dodge Aries K cars, Cairavan Mini Vans, and forklifts.
You can also find parts trucks at tow company yards for cheep when they come up for sale.

Thanks, and no the parts in the back were scrap that the guy had sitting it in.

how do I know what fits my truck? I hear about narrow/wide and also heard that I had to get an engine that came from a 5-speed vehicle. I'm in southeast missouri.

just look in the Wiki area. There is history and information on how to determine what a narrow block or wide block is. Lots of good information in the Wiki and some areas that are under construction. It's a good starting place. A 2.6 is a wide block. nearly all engines are wide block. Only the early 2.0 and some others are narrow. I think it's listed in the Wiki history.

Oh ya I forgot.. We also have an on-line radio station you can check out. Just look at the top of the page for MMD5 radio in the menu bar.

Dead oil pump + knock means you probably need to rebuild the lower end, at least. All things being equal, probably faster, cheaper, and easier to pull the pack and get it into a good shop or do the work yerself.

Welcome to the D50/MM club, and the site!

would this work if it was a wideblock? I thought the only differences through the years was the head? http://www.ebay.com/itm/280832050755...#ht_2182wt_876

yeah I figured rebuilding it would be smarter than buying a used engine to throw in it. but mainly because I've not found an engine for under 1000 because I can't find anything local.

I don't have the tools/area to work on it so I'm having a trusted shop do it so once they check it out and see how bad it is I'll go from there.

it'd be cool to drop in a turbo engine but wouldn't I be looking at well over 3k to do that.

You can turbo a 2.6, but I'd worry about getting the block and top end fit as a fiddle first. You'd need go with Starion/Conquest intake and injection plus all the wiring, sensors, and ECU. The turbo itself would be upwards of $1k as from what I've gleaned, the original turbos were crap.

There was some discussion on the topic here (and will probably prove me wrong on multiple points):
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...s-the-question

Quote:

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Originally Posted by b-dub

would this work if it was a wideblock? I thought the only differences through the years was the head? http://www.ebay.com/itm/280832050755...#ht_2182wt_876

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That looks like a diesel block or something. I don't think it's gas.

The only thing thats going to bolt straight up and plug right in is another 2.6(g54b). Doesnt matter if its from manual or auto as all 2.6 are wideblock from like 80-on. A 2.4(4g64)from will bolt to your tranny but you will also need the entire wiring harness,ecu,etc aa you'd be switching to fuel injection.

then why is this automatic only? I've also heard of this somewhere else

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REMAN-CH...ht_1593wt_1109 if this would work I'd just get it and be done with it...

There saying 12.25" on the block thats incorrect. 12.50" would be a 2.0L Narrow block. 13.25" is a wide block. I would call them and get them to physically measure it. I don't see any jet valves. If you look in the Wiki under engine type and markings you will find more info on years and blocks.
Call them 1-800-998-2100

I dont know whats up with that ad but make sure you get a wideblock, which is 13.25" lower bellhousing bolt tobolt. My truck came with a 2.6 with auto and i can assure you it was a wideblock 13.25" wide, same as the manual trannys. Doesnt make much sense to have a completely different block just for auto and standard tranny.

EDIT: And most of that wide/narrow block stuff you are reading about is people talking about the 2.0 g63b

not entirely true - 79 - 86 2.6 auto blocks are narrow blocks, 5 speeds are wide blocks. 87 up 2.6 are all wide blocks auto or manual

thanks for clearing that up for me. Now I get why some people were saying the auto and manual blocks were different but it's just a year based thing for narrow/wide. So I indeed have a wide block thank you.

When in doubt whip the tape out.

Just purchased an engine from a yard in nashville from an 88 4x4 they are pulling it out of the truck today and shipping it to my mechanic


oh.. anyone know if It's possible for me to swap the door locks from passenger to drivers side? This isn't the original door and I don't have a key for it. would be nice to not have to unlock the passenger side and slide across all the time :)

anything I should do while the engine is out???

sorry didn't see your post, www.rockauto.com has the door locks for $14.00 for the set and that way you have a key that fits both doors.

thanks for the info that will come in handy for sure.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...425_123501.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...425_123456.jpg


she's getting there.. anyone care to guess what that white horn looking thing is... I'm hoping it's not what I think it is...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...2_154851-1.jpg

That white "horn" thing is an alarm siren. The truck must have an alarm in it somewhere. If you didn't get the remote fobs with it when you purchased the truck, just have the alarm removed, it's not worth the hassles trying to get it and the truck functional again. Just eliminate it

Well that's a lot better than what I thought it was.. I thought it was one of those GHETTO megaphones hooked up to the cd player. ..lol I have seen that before and wow that would be embarassing

well I saw it today, nice big chunk was missing out of the timing chain cover but the chains were all there so not too sure what had happened. being taken out and pressure washed and hopefully he'll have the engine back in it tomorrow. I'm hoping to get to pick it up by the first of the week...


IMPORTANT QUESTION - some people hacked off the cat so it's just the header running off the engine....... would I hurt the truck to drive it the 10 miles to the muffler shop? I know some people have on other vehicles but I want to know from you guys who know these trucks.... 2.6l


also a bit of good news for once.. clutch/pressure plate and flywheel all appear to be in like newish condition.. so that's a major plus..

Can drive just on the manifold, won't hurt the engine any. Might get a ticket for the noise, though. LOL

I know when we fired up the old knocking engine it was nice and loud LOL... if it's safe I'll drive it there. Don't have to worry much about a ticket in my area ;)

I'd probably be more likely to be stopped for no plated or the busted window first

so I should be picking the truck up this coming week.. trying to decide what to have done with the exhaust.. does anyone recommend a muffler that doesn't make the truck sound like a 90's civic with a folgers can and shopping cart handle..



everything from the header back will be custom.

flow masters

Dyno-max, the only other thing I would do is put a resonator on it as well that will stop the popping on deceleration.

Flowmaster muffler, I'm running a delta flow 40 series, nice deep tone and not too loud

If it pops on decell then just richen it up a little.

any advice on cat.. or catless (no smog or emissions crap around here)

no cat.

so straight pipe from header back to a flowmaster. (always heard good things about them anyways)

what size pipe do you guys recommend for the 2.6l and I'm debating the resonator .. I guess if it's too loud it could easily be added on as an afterthought.


and is the pacesetter header even worth getting.. honest opinion on this please..

Max exhaust pipe size I would go with is a 2" OD. As the exhaust gets larger you start to lose bottom end torque and you will find your truck slower off the line till you hit a higher rpm.A resonator doesn't quiet down the exhaust, it just sound smoother and stops the pops and farts that you hear on the "ricer" cars that sound like pissed off bumblebees.

I did a full 2" system on my 90 Suzuki Sidekick (1.6L SOHC) with resonator and dyno-max Super turbo. when done the engine at idle sounded like a small V6 and at wide open throttle is never buzzed or farted.

I run a pacesetter header, old style, with a high flow cat, 2.25" pipe back to a delta 44 with 2 2" pipes out. In the burgh we have to have cats and it helped me by not losing the bottom end with the larger pipes. The recommendations back in the day was to use a 2.25" pipe without cats all the way through - when they used to make exhaust pipe kits thats what they came with.

engine in.. then engine had to be pulled up to do the oil pan (2wd engine in a 4x4 truck) so now the engine is back in and was told it should fire up tomorrow... fingers crossed.


so I had a fun day... had a flat tire.. so I had to get a ride home.. was on my way to change the flat when a nice gringind brought me to a halt.. towed it home... fixed the flat finally and on the way home oil light came on.. I pulled over immedialty and topped it off (got to get a new oil filter cannister) ..so I got home to fire up a 3rd car and it's revving up and down really hard like it's cammed lol

she puurrrssssssss.... :)


uhm... did 88 or 89 2.6 trucks have an EGR? both exhaust mani's have what appears to be an egr port.. yet nowhere on the truck to mount it and neither engine came with one... pace setter header doesn't have this does it??

Yes the egr valve is located on the intake manifold, cant remember exactly where on the 2.6

Well I guess mine just won't have one. Both engines were missing it and the exhaust manifolds were just hacked off and leaking massively from the quarter sized pipe sticking out of it...I guess I better get to looking and making sure there isn't something else to be plugged

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...capture_03.png

This is the only pic I have but it's a small pipe sticking off the Mani

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...capture_03.png

This is the only pic I have but it's a small pipe sticking off the Mani

this is what my 88 with 2.6l looks like...
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/IMG_1935.jpg

oh alright so the tube runs into the air cleaner cover/intake then it's no biggie for me... pace setter being ordered today and the hole in the intake shouldn't effect anything since it's located where it is. plus I have plans to go weber in the future..

odd that my exhaust doesn't have that upper tube coming out on the right side

I think the tube is just off of the shroud, it just funnels warm air into the air cleaner off of the manifold.

That makes sense

so Hank "Blue Beast" is running perfect.. just got to get the exhaust and windshield done and she should be road ready... then next comes the fun stuff...

montero arms shackles and torsion crank :) after that body lift and I'll get some decent 33" on order by fall .. still not sure what I will do for the light bar and winch

http://images.superherostuff.com/ima...-Watermark.jpg

oh forgot to mention.. when he went to swap oil pans.. chunks of metal came out Lol... I was wanting to keep the engine and rebuild it.. but honestly I think it's done for..... I'd hate to scrap it.. any ideas?? Timing cover was smashed and all the bearings were toast.. I have a feeling the block is probably pretty beat to heck as well...

so I'm getting the header ordered tomorrow and was planning to order the muffler.. but just can't decide if I want to bother spending the money on a flowmaster.. mainly after hearing this.. catless with 40 series .. not too crazy about the sound which 40 was it that you guys mentioned? this one?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRuFPPA-b14

you can always go with a Dyno-Max Super turbo, I've used them for years and they sound good.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17730/?rtype=10

Mine sounds a bit different I think but I'm running a cat and the delta flow 40 series

from watching a different vid of that guy's he has straight pipe to the delta 40 and has just the shell of the cat slid over the pipe.. probably why it's buzzing too much is from the cat shell vibrating.


ok my thoughts... feel free to criticize the heck out of me

the truck will be lifted bigger tires etc. will be used as a mud toy/DD for when I don't want to take my jetta out ... nothing major I live in a REALLY rural area on dirt and gravel roads that are often torn up and muddy so it's not like I'll be attempting to mud bog LOL...

anyways..

pacesetter header to 2.5" pipe (will this lose too much Tq I hear bigger pipe diameter has deeper tone but I don't want to lose power from it..)
then a cherry bomb glasspack in place of the car (using it as a resonator) ... then 2.5" pipe to a cherry bomb turbo muffler with an imediate turn down around the stock location..

is 2.5" fine for a nice deeper tone or should I stick with a 2.25

is a glass pack and muffler overkill ? I thought it might make it sound deeper and quieten it up some since I'm catless.. will I kill power using both?



edit- would a 3" turndown after the muffler sound better? or like if a did 2.25" piping at least do a 2.5" turn down

DON'T do a dump under the bed it will resonate like crazy and drone real bad at highway speeds. Best thing to do is either a straight pipe from the muffler back and dump it at the roll pan or a bend right after the muffler that dumps in front or behind the rear tire out from under the box.

sorry I didn't make that clear. I meant header - pipe - cherry bomb - pipe then turbo muffler (back behind/around the rear tires with a turn down around where the stock tailpipe would have been)

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...89468532_n.jpg

nother pic...


anyways decided I'll do pacesetter header (has now been ordered) 2.25" pipe with some sort of glasspack (cherry bomb ?? thrush??? come on guys chime in here) then 2.25" pipe to a muffler... debating on a cherry bomb or delta 60 I kind of like the thought of sticking with the same brand stuff... like using the cherry glasspack and muffler.. but doesn't have to be.. I just don't want it to seem too rigged up ... plan to order in the morning so hoping someone can help show more opinion on the matter.. I also plan to do a 2.5 pipe running from the muffler as the tailpipe.. don't know if I'll get a tip or turn it down

well guys I just went ahead and went cheap so I can hurry and get it on the road.. my DD needs a valve job and lifters done so I decided not to splurge on exhaust. got the dynomax "thrush" glasspack 25" and picking up a thrush welded today or in the morning.

going pacesetter header - 2.25" pipe - glasspack (roughly around where the cat was) - then 2.25" pipe back to the stock muffler location where I'll have it run into a 2.5" in/out thrush welded muffler then from there I'll have a 2.5" tailpipe to try and help with a slightly deeper tone.. have no plans for a tip yet.. I'll wait to get it to the exhaust shop that doing my tubing to see which route would be best.


front control arms should be here monday :) windshield will be brought and installed next pay day 204$ installed for new glass.. yeah baby :) a couple people laughed and told me good luck finding one.. onlile they go for a small fortune.. so I can't complain at all

New glass $65.00 + shipping from our contact out here.

I'm sure shipping is a lot more than it's worth: / 204 for the glass with delivery and installation is good enough

montero control arms (arms purchased), t-crank, shackles,

light bar of some sort.. (considering the cab mounted carr since I don't want to shell out 1000 for a bed mount)

altenator upgrade for the lights/audio

mechanical fan delete with electric fans replacing it.

3" bl,

rear montero gears with lsd, front gear swap, (researching)

33" tires,

weber carb/electric fuel pump, (currently the stock carb does fine that's why this upgrade is being put off


really really want a winch and would LOVE a nice bumper for it. (don't even know where to begin...)


I really would like a/c... it looks like my truck MAY have used to have it but I'm not sure...I have not researched much into it

those are roughly in order that I plaan to do them


I'm sure there is a lot more but at this moment I don't remember.. but I figured hell after the engine swap, buying it and exhaist I have more money in it than I'll see and I like the truck and like being different... so why not just fix it up more to fit my taste/needs

dang I didn't realize I couldn't edit stuff.. I was planning to add prices and items to the list :( why don't you guys allow editing our own posts?

Im not sure but it should be allowed, never been on a board that doesnt allow editing of posts.

heck yeah.. got my new control arms in.. came with new balljoints bushings control arm shafts and hardware... I still don't see what's supposedly so special about them but once confirmed that they fit and lift the truck at least the stated 1" I'll post some pics of before/after and a side by side pic of the arms for all future members who want some updated info. bouncing around on the archives had the info but no real pics or info from people who had done it to their personal truck (not that it seemed like anyways)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu

Im not sure but it should be allowed, never been on a board that doesnt allow editing of posts.

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I know it makes it seem strange to me.. I am always listing stuff (mainly for my own motivation and for me to keep track of stuff) so I edit a lot.. and since I can't do that you just see a lot of extra posts from me as I'm updating.

I'm pretty sure that donators are supposed to be able to edit their posts, in fact I think we used to be able to. Maybe it's something we lost in the last upgrade?

in fact it allowed me to edit this, but not my previous posts on this thread...

I THINK that you can only edit your last post and only for a short period of time. I dunno. I know most forums (I've been on TONS) let you do it.. this is only the second forum I've been on that doesn't allow it. I always thought having to multipost killed the storage/bandwith used by the site ?? Idk

anyways arms are in... can't complain for all new bushings hardware and balljoints.. but I see no real difference in the montero arms and d50 arms other than removable balljoints

finally got the header in.. having it installed since the truck is still at the shop and then it's being delivered to a muffler shop to put all my stuff on.

I wish I had to tools and area to work on the mechanical stuff myself.. but a dirt driveway and a floor jack just doesn't cut it all the time when I sleep during the day

You should be able to edit. Look to the lower right of the post.

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Thats strange. Try looking at one of your other posts in the forum some where. I'll look into it. It might be a setting for the new b section. You should make a build thread. Also try to make one in the test area and see if it shows up. It looks correct on the back side.

The only place a donator can't edit is in the for sale area.