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I can only speculate, but perhaps the large-capacity tank could have been an optional/package upgrade on the LWB trucks that had room for it?Quote:
Originally Posted by atownbrg
If not, and if the yard did pull that tank from an otherwise matching build/year, maybe that truck's PO ran into the same NLA tank issue and had already retrofitted a SWB tank from another truck?
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Dumb question, and you've probably already tried but will it work if you use the rear mounting holes and then work on the front support? It should bring the filler neck into alignment so at least you don't have to mess with the filler tube. The return and pick up lines are easier to adapt if they need to be longer.
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Add spacer washers to the tank mount location to give you a little extra wiggle room... should solve part of your problem with the lines.
*there may actually have been spacers there in the first place :shrug:
Less gas go faster ~ carry on bro
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It's prolly a BSP standard, since they used that for other pipe threadings. 37-degree flare appears to be a JIC (Joint Industry Council) fitting, not JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) -- which latter uses a 30-degree taper with BSP threading.
Not clear if you mean "soft lines" as in rubber lines with attached end-fittings or workable metal; just don't use copper tubing for the latter -- vibration work-hardens it, causing it to crack eventually. Cupronickel (e.g. Cunifer™) would be suitable, typically supplied for brake lines.
i wouldn't even go thru all that crap. You must have the time to waste
if the hose needed extending, I'd cut that hose and use the appropiate length tube/correct o.d. + clamps
500hp street nissans live fine with fuel hose, slid over & clamped to tubing
If you go with splicing pipe into the middle of the stock hose, take care to use FI-style hose clamps, not the typical worm-drive clamps, which don't clamp evenly around their circumference and thus can leak under high pressure. FI clamps are smooth bands with an overlapping section at the open end, and "ears" where a screw passes thru one ear to a captive nut in the other ear to tighten the clamp, like so:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=27105&stc=1
WILL SPRING CLAMPS WORK OK ? WHAT TYPE CLAMPS ARE ON THE GAS TANKS NOW ? LOOK HERE: http://https://hosetips.com/spring-hose-clamps-vs-screw/Quote:
Originally Posted by SubGothius
Spring and worm-drive hose clamps are both fine for carbureted engines, but unsuitable with fuel injection where high fuel pressure makes them prone to leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by xboxrox
good tip on the clamp. Oem nissan type shown here, they last forever
https://d3t0tbmlie281e.cloudfront.ne...NIaib2i.medium
may need bigger diameter for that thicker mitsu hose. Grab em(same type) from oem external tranny cooler lines at junkyard
lloootttsssaaa folk run worm type tho. Supplied with most new fuel pumps
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Harbor Freight sells tiny stick welding electrodes 5/64" or the like should work on half way clean metal start with 65ampsQuote:
Originally Posted by atownbrg
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Mods can do that for ya; what do you want the revised thread title to say?Quote:
Originally Posted by atownbrg
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Done. :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by atownbrg
You would've made a good Marine. Improvise, adapt and overcome :thumbup:
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