New here. Reading a lot about swapping the stock carb for a Weber. I have a 87 2.6 with a manual trans. Which carb/kit do I need? I see a couple different ones on the forum. Just want to make sure I get the right one. TIA
Printable View
New here. Reading a lot about swapping the stock carb for a Weber. I have a 87 2.6 with a manual trans. Which carb/kit do I need? I see a couple different ones on the forum. Just want to make sure I get the right one. TIA
https://www.carburetion.com/Products...aspx?Part=K610
Does this kit have everything needed?
That kit will do it, or the K614 would be a bit preferable as that comes with a DFEV carb that puts the float bowl in front which is optimal for any carb:
https://www.carburetion.com/Products...aspx?Part=K614
I'd also advise getting an electric fuel pump, and a relay to feed it power direct from the battery (+) terminal. It's possible to use the stock mechanical fuel pump, but that would need a pressure regulator, which ultimately tends to kill the pump. Any low-pressure electric pump (3 psi or so) will suffice, but I like and recommend the Carter P90091.
Option #2 is the Weber 38DGES carb. Makes more HP, gains torque. Same installation procedure and adapter kit.
Thank you both. I appreciate the input.
Just ordered the K614 kit and the Carter pump. Any pitfalls I need to watch for during the install?
Coolant block off. First, drain some coolant out of the system before removing the carb - if you don't, coolant will back log into the intake manifold. Draining some off will save headaches and cleaning up. Next is the barb that feeds the water choke to the Mikuni needs to either be capped off or the barb connection removed and replaced with a straight barb for the heater hose (my preference is option #2 - it will look neater and limits the risk of it ambushing you with a coolant leak - it is not easy to remove due to a combination of the factory sealant and corrosion/age) Next place is the coolant bypass port under the carb. Usually it won't leak if a gasket has been sealed down onto it properly but you can tap the coolant port with a metric M6 tap and thread a grub screw into it with some loctite. Problem permanently solved and is reversible if need be.
EDIT: Looks like I ditto'd some of geezer's tips; that's what I get for taking so long to compose a reply... :P
Drain at least some coolant before removing the stock carb, as the mounting flange on the intake manifold has a coolant port for the stock carb's choke. Not sure if the Redline adapter plates block that port (I used a different adapter that doesn't), but advisable to tap that port anyway for a grub screw (M6 size, IIRC) -- tap threads just deep enough for the screw to bottom out tightly when its head is flush with the flange, advise using hi-temp thread sealant (e.g. Permatex 59214).
There's another coolant tee-barb on the intake manifold behind the carb, which feeds the heater and stock carb's choke. You'll need to either remove that fitting and replace with a single-barb fitting for the heater hose, or just cap the side barb with a short length of hose plugged with a bolt and clamped at both ends (IMO more reliable than a rubber cap).
You can remove the control box on the driver's inner fender along with the stock carb. Leave all vacuum hoses connected to them that you can, and just pull them both out together along with the hoses. You can use one of the mounting bolts for that control box to mount your fuel pump relay on the inner fender near the battery.
The only vac hoses you really need to keep are for the brake booster and distributor vac advance. If you don't need to pass emissions testing, hook up the vac advance to one of the barbs on the barb tree screwed into the manifold. Cap the remaining ports on that tee and any open ports on the carb body.
As for where to mount the fuel pump, down low near the fuel tank is best. Not sure if a std. bed has the fuel tank mounted the same way as my longbed, but I found my tank was mounted to a rail across its front edge, which just happened to have a hole in it perfectly sited for the pump mounting bracket. The mounting bolt for that bracket also secures the ring terminal (along with a star washer) for the ground wire going to the pump. See this thread for pics of that installed pump and other useful info:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...r-carb-install
Is there a specific relay that is recommended?
I would recommend a 12v 30A fused 4 pin relay with the harness socket included. The fuel pump should be fused to protect it from a short and they are simple to install. Something like this - https://www.ebay.com/itm/23326776452...kAAOSwsTxXjzPw
Thank you. Replacing a head gasket and then I’ll swap the carb when it gets here.
Do I have to block the hole on the side of the manifold? Looking at the carb, that hole looks like a vacuum port.http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...2-7e37d2307d57[/QUOTE]
Tried to upload a photo but it didn’t work.
What about the other electrical connections on the control box? Do I need to do something with them?http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=27067&stc=1
If you're asking about a threaded hole pointing towards the driver's side directly below the carb, there should have been a vacuum barb "tree" screwed into that with 5 barbs on it. You can just plug that, but it's a weird BSPT 1/8"-28 threading; looks like this plug should do the trick:Quote:
Originally Posted by swet158
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122857847756
In this case for distributor vac advance you'd just use "ported" vacuum from the carb. The DFEV carb with that K614 kit should have a suitable barb low on the choke side, just above the idle mixture screw.
Just disconnect the wiring terminal blocks connecting to that box and the carb. You can just leave the disconnected terminal blocks as-is, maybe tuck or zip-tie them out of the way for tidiness if you wish.Quote:
Originally Posted by swet158
I really appreciate all the info. The port I’m talking about is between the two carb mounting bolt holes closest to the head. Looking at the stock carb, it looks like a vacuum port.
I threaded the bottom hole and I’ll be getting a plug.
Aha, that's the jet-valve port, only works with the stock carb and does nothing at all (good nor bad) with a Weber swap. No need to do anything with it as I think the adapter plate blocks it, but you may as well at least remove the lash adjuster screws that operate the jet valves, effectively disabling them, or even get a jet valve eliminator kit to replace them entirely. You'll find those lash screws on the same rocker arms that operate the main intake valves.Quote:
Originally Posted by swet158
Ok. I ordered the jet valve delete kit but haven’t gotten it yet. Thank you.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=27085&stc=1Looky what showed up at my house. The beast will hopefully live this weekend.
Got her all put back together. Runs pretty good. Needs some fine tuning. Now I may have to pull the tranny. Sounds like the throw out bearing is about to give up the ghost. Idling in neutral it makes quite a bit of noise. Push the clutch in and it gets quiet.
It might just need to be adjusted. If the clutch doesn’t fully engage about 2 inches off the floor then the cable it tight
Same on my truck BUT now makes less noise after changing trans gear oil with Royal Rurple 90w syntheticQuote:
Originally Posted by swet158
I did drain the trans and fill it with RP after I heard the noise. I’ll run it for a bit and see what it does. Had another gentleman tell me he runs heavier weight oil and it helps.
The Royal Purple quieted it down significantly.
Hello geezer101 in post #7 you talked about a coolant block off plate. Do you know where i could order one? Or is this something i will have to make?
No need for any "coolant block off plate". You'll just need to block that coolant port in the carb mounting flange on top of the intake manifold (tap it for threads to plug it with a grub/set screw and Loctite or thread sealant) and cap-off the unused fork of the coolant tee rearward of the carb (use a short length of hose blocked with a short bolt at one end, secured with hose clamps at both ends).
Is this a genuine webber carb or do u know how to get oneQuote:
Originally Posted by swet158