Ok I have a 3 inch block kit and I am goin to cut my springs 1.5 coils to get the ride height I want, but I hear about the middle leaf removal. What does the middle leaf removed does to the suspension?:confused:
Printable View
Ok I have a 3 inch block kit and I am goin to cut my springs 1.5 coils to get the ride height I want, but I hear about the middle leaf removal. What does the middle leaf removed does to the suspension?:confused:
Taking out the middle leaf is gonna lower the rear some more. How much lower all depends upon the condition of the leaf springs . Taking out the middle leaf is gonna make the others work a little harder and they might end up sagging some over time. If you take them out and dont like it you can always put them back. Sometimes going too low in the rear changes the angle of the driveshaft and it can hit the bottom of the truck( i think that is more of a problem on extended cabs). You might end up needing angled drop blocks to correct the pinion angle. Also with drop blocks you tend to get more wheel hop and axle wind up because of the leverage on the real leaf springs has changed.
Agree with what crvtec90 said, and removing the middle leaf will give you approximately a 2" drop.
Well I lowered it and didnt removed any leafs cuz all I have is 2 leafs and helper spring. so I put on the 3 inch blocks and cut the extended u-bolts so I wont hit anything with them. It gave me a 2inch drop at least cuz it is sitting low and I like the stance. Thank you for all the information. now I know lol
have any pics??? just curious on the outcome..
glad to hear you got it lowered
Im happy too and just doing the front now, but had to stop due to rain grrr lol Check out my profile. I just posted a album of Lowering My M3 Sport check it out. Thanks
So you'll be dropping aprox 3/3 or pulling leaf 3/5? On extended cabs I believe they have the 2 piece drive shaft and not the one piece like the reg cabs. I'm a little curious as to how far you'll go in lowering.
ext. cabs do have a 2 piece driveshaft and im pretty sure that keeps it from rubbing the cab
That's what I thought. So it Would be more of a problem with the reg cabs. Just the same issues with drive line angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by LethalEthan
I have a 2 piece cuz my truck is a longbed reg cab but I will not be pulling a leaf and I want to cut the coils but I dont want the front sitting lower than the back I want it even. So a 1 3/4 cut or 1 1/2 or 1 coil cut??
One coil cut would be about 2 inches drop. 1.5 coils cut is 3. With the oem rake of the truck it's 2 inches higher inthe rear then the front. So with a 3/5 drop it'll be a flush drop or 3/4 drop with a 1 inch rake.
I left the all the leafs in place and added my 3inch blocks so even flush will be cutting the front coils 1 coil cut? I get confused easily with math sorry.
One coil cut with a 3 inch block would be a 2/3 drop with a one inch rake. Even drop with the 3 inch block would be cut half a coil dropping 1/3.
I dont mind a bit doing a half a coil cut to get it even. Thank you for your help. I will keep the pics coming so check out my profile and thanks again.:D
Not a problem with the questions. Aak away. It not only helps you but would help others with similar questions as well. Also keep us active. ;)
two pc. drive shafts are great. I keep a couple on hand. I am thinking of running one on my reg. cab. short bed. mighty max. I am gonna experiment with it and see..
yeah what ever you do just remember what they said above. the rear sits around two inches higher.
if you are not happy you can always go lower.....
and its ok to run only one leaf with blocks, just run the helper on top for acle wrap reduction, and smoother ride....
My front springs are worn. I have coil spring spacers in there already on the left front and it still is uneven. So If yours are showing their age like mine then You really only have a good average of how much the drop will be. Did u make sure to cut the bump stops in the rear? After u cut the front coils make sure u get an alignment. A 2 inch drop in the front can be at least a 1/2 degree of camber which is a country mile in terms of tire wear.
+1 on the alignment. If I remember correctly last time I had my isuzu up on the rack it had -2degrees of front camber and It's dropped about 4-5in in the front.
Got it lowered and it looks great and handles a lot better than I would ever thought. I cut the front springs 3/4 of a coil each and it dropped 1 inch exactly made the truck handle and stance is even from front to back I love it!:D
I just posted pics of the finished product of the lowering so enjoy!:p
Yeah this thread helped me cause im getting ready to drop mine as well, but its my first lowering attempt so I have no clue what to do.... lol
My back end sits a bit higher then the front stock, i want to drop it, but not sure what i need to do to get it level.
Hey tek... Can u summarize exactly what you did, (to the front and back) and what the exact inches the truck was lowered as a result. You can shoot it to me in a PM or just post it here. Thanks.
**Also... Not sure if its cause your front is on concrete and back is in grass, but your back ends looks a little lower than the front.**
Told you this thread helps others. ;)
Actually my bumper is like that too. The bumper itself hangs kinda low. If your confident in your surroundings then you can always remove the rear bumper for a cleaner look. and it makes one less thing hit the ground. lol
lookin good man...and yeah you would be surprised how many people that arent even members will get use of this...its crazy....
keep up the good work..
Yea Ram50Man I will summerize about after I get off work and its the concrete sidewalk it sits higher than my grass but when it is sitting on level asphalt its dead level lol. I am very happy it does help people out thats is what we surpose to do I enjoy helping people lol. Yea I may take the back bumper off but I am still deciding it dont scrap yet hahaha but if it does and I just might. thanks for all the compliments makes me feel good about my work on my truck. I love this site it has help very much and everybody keep up the great work too and i will get back to it asap.:D
[Front]
(I suggest doing one side at a time and PB Blaster and a BFH lol)
1. Remove nuts and bolt that holds ur sway bar and the two nuts underneath the bottom A arm that holds the strut bar and holds the bumpstop. (remember to cut the bumpstop in half for a smooth ride!)
2. Remove tie rod end off of the spindle.
3. Remove shock completely.
4. Put jack under control arm just barely underneath about a 1/4 inch so it will catch it.
5. Remove cotterpin from bottom spindle mount and loosen the nut dont take it off all the way so when you knock the side of the control arm it will pop the spindle up and the control arm down hince having the jack underneath the control arm to not let spring hit you in the face.
6. Lower control arm slowly and you might have to wrestle with the spring to manuevor it out of the spring pocket.
7. I cut mine 3/4 of a coil to get a 1 inch drop to level my truck from having the 3 inch blocks in the rear with all the rear springs still in place which included mine with 2 actual springs and a Helper spring.
8. Just install in reverse order.:cool:
[Rear]
(Get on level ground and 2 sets of floor stands and a good hydrulic jack and either cut or remove bumpstops!)
1. Jack hoghead up high enough to put ur 1 set of jack stands underneath the frame rails.
2. Add you second pair of jack stands underneath the axle tubes and lower the axle just enough the whole axle sitting on jack stands but leave jack under hoghead snugged up to it.
3. Remove shock bolt that attaches to the leaf spring bottom plate.
4. Remove the U bolts and spring bottom plate.
5. Remove bolt from emergency brake cable.
6. Put in ur 3 inch blocks in and spring bottom plate and supplied U bolts and lock washers and nuts. (remember to cut your U bolt ends after you tighten them up so you dont scrap or hang up on something.)
7. Replace bolt for emergency brake cable and shock nut back on the bottom spring plate.
8. Jack up hoghead to remove the jack stands underneath the axle tubes and then jack up one side of the truck to remove the jack stand from the frame and then to the other side of the truck.
9. Enjoy!:cool:
Wow, thats it! That sounds super easy! so 3 inch blocks in the rear, and a 3/4 cut on the front. (3/4 of a coil = 1"? is this true for all front coils, or is it brand specific? and does the amount of wear on the coil matter? as it gets older and used do the coils become more compressed, changing the amount of a coil needed to be cut to equal that 1" of height?)
Like a shotgun blast of questions, my bad!
Problem with cutting stock springs is as they get shorter, they get stiffer real quick. Aftermarket springs are made to be cut without increasing the spring rate or stiffness. If you are cutting stock springs, try to get new ones that haven't sagged. You really aren't saving money cutting stock coils, as the damage caused by the stiffer coils more than offsets the cost of lowering coils, not to mention losing any chance of a smooth ride.
that is a very true statement --pennyman1
i cut coils back in the day on a few cars and trucks...it does beat the hell out of other suspension components and bolts nuts etc. it will take a toll on a daily driven vehicle that is for sure.
but i have had an 95 integra ls and it was on cut coils....its drove like a dream and never had any problems, it may vary i guess...
hope all works out..
as long as you are happy with your mod thats all that matters i guess..i think it looks great btw
nice little step by step
yea basically i guess its just how my springs are they are smooth riding it stiffed the suspension a bit but its rides a whole lot better than bouncing with stock stuff and it matters on the saggness of the springs in ur type of vehicle btw but mine was only 3/4 of a cut to make a inch off the spring hieght but its how ever just measure with a measuring tape. ask any questions and thats what keeps us thats for sure. ty for the comments about my truck and u are welcome on the step by step I like easy instructions too. lol
The shocks take a beating with the lowered ride height. When shocks go out, then you'll notice the truck getting rougher and a lot more bouncy. It's one of thoughs "you get what you payed for" kinda deal. The so rings will sag, and ride height will be affected when they do, another alignment should be done at either that ride height, or a corrected ride height by suspension alteration.
To help reduce the wear and tear on a lowered front suspension, put a 1" spacer between the lower control arm and the shock. This help to lengthen the shock out and prevent it from bottoming out. It will actually improve the ride by restoring the travel close to where the shock was designed to work. As an alternative, Tokico shocks have a built in bump stop to prevent shock failure by bottoming out.
This is what I've done on the yota. When I had doetsch tech nitro drop shocks it wasnt a problem. When I got toxics for the front their compressed length is a bit longer than the d-techs so I had to put a spacer in the bottom. works great!Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
this is a good info thread. I have a couple questions.
1. I don't quite understand how you lowered the rear without taking springs out, maybe i'm stupid, not sure but can you clarify this process?
2. by lowering your front end, do you have to have your camber and caster adjusted, if so, did you do it yourself?
3. I see it's been a couple months now, so do you see any unusual wear on your tires?
4. pennyman1 has some good info on keeping the ride smooth, my truck is a daily driver and want to keep it smooth so i'll probably buy new springs (i still have the stock ones on from 1987). How does yours ride now?
Just looked at your pics, nice stance on your ride. I like the long bed too.. Mines a shorty..
Thanks.
no prob man the leafs sit underneath the rearend so all you have to do is unbolt the the plate at the bottom of the leafs and remove the bumpstop and old u bolts but make sure you have your rearend on a good steady jack to move it up and down. and just reverse the process with your new lowering block kit I used 3" block kit.
naw i didnt have to adjust anything and my tires are not worned down at all just normal wear and tear. lol.
it rides good its a bit stiff but nothing i aint use to just buy some new shocks is a good idea to do lol.
ty ty I like it too I have another truck too its a shorty but its a ext cab I like it. I post pics soon and yea I looked at yours too very nice its got potential.
got it.. thanks.. just went out to compare your notes to the truck and now i realize how easy that install is.
laterz
I am happy to hear that and keep us posted man
After lowering the front you will want to get an alignment. Everything will move when you pull your spindles from The balljoints and all that to cut or replace the coils
Dropped,
Thanks, i was thinking of gettin it done after the install anyway because it pulls to the left now, so thought I'd wait. I already purchased the drop kit today so it should be here in about a week.. can't wait!!!