1g in a 1g

Hi all,, just wanted to share with any who may be interested. bought this 86 for less then $500. Attachment 21128 smoked like it was burning tires in all 4 cylinders, rebuilt the anemic g63b and it runs great with the weber carb but wanted more, looked for all the go fast goodies for it only to find that was not likely to happen. so,,, found me a fire breathing 4g63t 6bolt,, .20 over wisco,, 272 cams,, ported heads etc. have done a bit so far,, installed jays water relocate kit, Attachment 21129 put the truck pump on,, made a new water tube Attachment 21130 found that if you press off the 1g waterpump flange, drill out the holes to allow pass through bolts, and ream the center hole enough to slide on the truck shaft,, all lines up well. and cleaned up the frontAttachment 21131 on to the intake,, drilled a hole in the front of it and welded on a true 2.5 id pipe and flangeAttachment 21132. needed exhaust so got a good set of headers, gt35 turbo, 40 mm external wastegate and made a full 3 inch stainless downpipe. was going to attempt the wiring, but decided to buy a standalone 1g harness. eprom and dsmlink v3 complete that. have a lsd diff to install. made a "tuff enuff" pan for the trans out of a 3/4 aluminum plate. had a pilot bearing pressed into the lightened flywheelAttachment 21133 am at the point where i will do all to the truck that i can to keep it a driver til i swap out motors,, install lsd, trans pan, run new fuelpump and lines, fit the intercooler ect. will post more pics as i remember to. wish me luck as my skill level is about at the minimum required to do this lol. should turn out pretty good, most of my toys do. Thanks,, Mike

Ooooooh, very nice. Any reason why you used adjustable cam gears? And how did you go with valve clearances? I've heard it doesn't take much to get valves and pistons saying hi to each other in a bad way in the 4G63. If you can cobble together this swap then your skills are better than minimum. You have ticked all the boxes for the swap but you might wanna consider beefing the front brakes up with a Gen 2 hub and brake set up. A nut and bolt swap. If you're going to a JY look at the Gen 2 front stabiliser bar and compare it to your Gen 1. I found my stock Gen 1 was thinner on my particular model, but was the same thickness when comparing the Gen 2 bar and the one in my donor wreck. The solid rotors will turn to marshmallows if you drive this hard. $500 is outrageously cheap for a truck that looks that tidy too. Keep us up to date and whatnot :thumbup:

Thank you geezer, got the motor as a previously running long block, already had the blue gears both set at 0 degrees and i didnt change any of the lash or timing settings. all appears to be right. will know for sure when i fire it up. as for the brakes,, yup, plan on the upgrade, just not on my already have list. kinda want to get it to be quick, then worry about if it can stop. will likely drop it a few inches at that time. got a set of 15x7 rims that will be wider tires, then drop it as much as i can

This is incredible! Nice work done! Im doing something similar just without the turbo. Definitely keep this thread going please!!!

Couple quick questions:

1. Could you clarify this a little?
found that if you press off the 1g waterpump flange, drill out the holes to allow pass through bolts, and ream the center hole enough to slide on the truck shaft,, all lines up well. and cleaned up the front

2. What did you use to make the new water tube?

3. How do you like the cooling kit you got from Jays? Decent quality? works well for the application?

Appreciate any info, keep up the awesome work.

Thank you Prescott. I used the serpentine belt pulley from the eclipse. when you try to put it on the truck waterpump, it sits too close to the block and the center hole is larger then the shaft size. i pressed off the flange from the 4g waterpump,, drilled out the threads of the 4 holes and used short bolts. had to ream out the center shaft hole, well, maybe didnt have to, but was easier to get it on the shaft without pressing on it. and tada, now the old flange acts as a spacer with the correct offset and center shaft hole size to keep the pulley centered on the shaft and belt path. as for the water tube,,, well,,, couldnt find one around here and didnt want to pull it off the running truck so i found an old jack handle that barely fit into the waterpump hole,, used a small round file and carved a groove in the end for an o-ring, drilled 3 3/8 holes where i felt they should be and brazed on the 3/8 water fittings that i cut off the 4g s giant water tube.. using a 90 bent rubber hose to turn the back corner and run to the heater core. as for jays kit,,, yup, would recommend it. dont try to drive the front freeze plug through to remove it. has a casting flash behind it that makes it not possible. cut through the middle of it and pull it out the front with a brake spoon like tool. when installed, felt like i could pull it out if i tried to do so, so a liberal amount of rtv sealant and time to cure is now rock solid. i do believe that i will drill and tap the rear blocking plate with a small fitting and run a tube from it to a fitting on the front so at least a little bit of flow leaves the back of the head to prevent stagnation.. will post more pics as i go.. Thanks,, Mike

oh,, and you need to cut off the top part of the original now front mount of the 4g so the jays kit will clear it

looks like this Attachment 21135

Hmm, looks like it works well. Most guys would try to swap all the pulleys and run the same V-belt arrangement. You don't have A/C or PS to worry about and it's made the belt system nice and compact. Just need a big thermofan tucked in behind the radiator now.

Thanks geezer. yes,, the v belt was the first train of thought, but the more i looked at it, this just seemed easier. has plenty of wraparound on the pullies and is dead on straight. keep eyeing one of those add on a/c kits, got an extra groove on the crank and room under the intake. a bit of creative bracketry could fit nice

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Originally Posted by Mikemike

Thank you Prescott. I used the serpentine belt pulley from the eclipse. when you try to put it on the truck waterpump, it sits too close to the block and the center hole is larger then the shaft size. i pressed off the flange from the 4g waterpump,, drilled out the threads of the 4 holes and used short bolts. had to ream out the center shaft hole, well, maybe didnt have to, but was easier to get it on the shaft without pressing on it. and tada, now the old flange acts as a spacer with the correct offset and center shaft hole size to keep the pulley centered on the shaft and belt path. as for the water tube,,, well,,, couldnt find one around here and didnt want to pull it off the running truck so i found an old jack handle that barely fit into the waterpump hole,, used a small round file and carved a groove in the end for an o-ring, drilled 3 3/8 holes where i felt they should be and brazed on the 3/8 water fittings that i cut off the 4g s giant water tube.. using a 90 bent rubber hose to turn the back corner and run to the heater core. as for jays kit,,, yup, would recommend it. dont try to drive the front freeze plug through to remove it. has a casting flash behind it that makes it not possible. cut through the middle of it and pull it out the front with a brake spoon like tool. when installed, felt like i could pull it out if i tried to do so, so a liberal amount of rtv sealant and time to cure is now rock solid. i do believe that i will drill and tap the rear blocking plate with a small fitting and run a tube from it to a fitting on the front so at least a little bit of flow leaves the back of the head to prevent stagnation.. will post more pics as i go.. Thanks,, Mike

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Man, that is incredible insight. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to write that all down. I ordered the Jays kit today with your recommendation. Look forward to getting that. Last big piece I need to get this going is finding the right block. Mine is a 4wd application so finding a wideblock 4g64 is proving difficult.

Thanks again though for all the info, I'm excited to follow your build

Just another quick question I thought about today. What are you thinking of running regarding the wiring harness?

Hi,, was given what appears to be several engine and 1 chassis harnesses with the engine when purchased.. got to looking at them and planning how to seperate and clean them up to work for what i needed.. decided that I was in no mood to spend hours tangling wires up and for a little more then you really would like to spend, can buy a 1g dsm standalone harness.. is very neat, clean, labled all the correct connectors and all. went that route. sent the ecu to have the chip socketed and new caps installed. while was there, had them install the dsmlink v3 chip and give it the onceover, all checks well and should have no problems with it.

1G engine loom is simple, & powering it up not that bad at all.
ecu powerup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf7eWOeEA-g bench test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=El3vZCVZG9E

where did u send ecu for socket, chip and caps... and cost ?


cool project

Hi,, I agree,, the harness is pretty easy to set up.. but i grabbed the first harness,, was 2nd gen.. second one,, a 1st gen with a bunch of odd cut wires and missing connectors. last one, a 1st gen still all wrapped up with a chassis harness and was all oily and yuk.. so went the easy route.. ecu went to ecmtech. they are the ones that make the dsmlink chip and are skilled with 1&2 gen ecu. was like $50 plus return shipping including full diagnostics and function check. i have another ecu that is factory socketed. will probably send that one into them so they can make sure that one is good also

Wow, thank you again! This is exactly the information I was looking for. Found the block i need today so I will pull that tomorrow. Last real big piece was the harness and you just cleared that up for me. Greatly appreciated

Where did you end up getting the 1g standalone harness?

oh,, and the chip seems to be $545 no matter who you get it from

seen a buddy sort out a crappy running turbo 4g63 recently
researched online. Wound up tuning it with some later year $50 mitsu junkyard ecu + adapter cable
"ecu flash" ? ..turned out to be the cheapest option as well


said he checked out DSMlink vs flash vs AEM(uses on his 2JZ), and prefers it by far. DSM guys rave about it too
thing is.... he's not even a DSM guy, but has tuned monsters using various standalone & piggybacks. Sharp guy

Hi All,, been busy so not much time to update. got the 4g mounted and bolted in, clutch appears to function.Attachment 21235 narrowed the spacer on the brake booster and shortened the rod,, not enough, had to cut off the rear flange off the intake. pushed back the firewall 14x8.5x2inches,, plenty of room back there now. installed a fitting off the rear water plate to move some water back there. have installed the limited slip. per Geezers always good advice. it now has 2nd gen spindles with drilled/slotted rotors. all new calipers, cylinders, and master cylinder. belltech 2.5/3 drop with nitro shocks (blocks and springs). msd fuelpump with an6 lines. is still in mockup, so please excuse the clutter. ordered up the aftermarket air conditioning kit. got new rims,, 15x8 with +19 backspace. bfg radials. umm,, more stuff that i have already forgotten. been taking pics as i go. sooo,,,, all is well and fitting at this point. so will just keep plugging away at it. Thanks for your time, Mike


Attachment 21236Attachment 21237Attachment 21238

Man I am excited to see you post again. That is awesome how it is all coming together. That definitely looks like the Rywire harness I plan to go with.

Thanks for the update

Thank you. yup, it says rywire all over it. only complaint i had with it is it did not include the 11 pin obd female connector that is needed to connect the laptop to it. the wires are run, just end in a generic, useless plug. it played hard to get finding that connector for me.

Hi All. Been quite busy but have had time to get some more done on the red truck. am about done under the hood, need some clamps and little things but all the hard work is done. wired, plumbed and ready to go. still need to add oil, pull the plugs and prime up the oil. hook up the airbox under the dash so i can add the coolant, and a few more things i best not forget. can't believe it all fit.Attachment 22153Attachment 22154Attachment 22155

That’s great work and thank you for sharing the front water relocate kit. Makes me more on doing the dohc instead of the Starion swap. But great build.

That’s great work and thank you for sharing the front water relocate kit. Makes me more on doing the dohc instead of the Starion swap. But great build.

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Originally Posted by Mikemike

Hi All. Been quite busy but have had time to get some more done on the red truck. am about done under the hood, need some clamps and little things but all the hard work is done. wired, plumbed and ready to go. still need to add oil, pull the plugs and prime up the oil. hook up the airbox under the dash so i can add the coolant, and a few more things i best not forget. can't believe it all fit.

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Damn you have been busy :shock: And I can't believe it all fits in there either. So now you've got grip from the rear end and bite at the front. Any chance you can post up a pic of the brake swap and front end etc? You've done an amazing job, it shouldn't be long before you're road test ready :thumbup:

Hi all. Well,,, went to fire it up, kept blowing a ecu related fuse.. searched for 2 days chasing every wire because i knew it had to be my fault. come to find out that the coil pack had somekind of internal short, go figure lol.. swapped out the coil for another that was in the goody box and by some freak of nature, the darn thing fired right up. it obviously needs a bit of tuning but the fact that it started and idled and revved up made my day. will get it all tweaked into shape and soon take it out and see if i can break something lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikemike

Hi all. Well,,, went to fire it up, kept blowing a ecu related fuse.. searched for 2 days chasing every wire because i knew it had to be my fault. come to find out that the coil pack had somekind of internal short, go figure lol.. swapped out the coil for another that was in the goody box and by some freak of nature, the darn thing fired right up. it obviously needs a bit of tuning but the fact that it started and idled and revved up made my day. will get it all tweaked into shape and soon take it out and see if i can break something lol

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You'll break something, or something will pop or it'll do some random glitch. That's just how it goes. I'd give you a week or 2 of teething before it decides to play nice...