What is this part called that is leaking oil?
Attachment 20456
Oddly enough the threads aren't leaking, the black plastic is leaking.
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What is this part called that is leaking oil?
Attachment 20456
Oddly enough the threads aren't leaking, the black plastic is leaking.
It's a oil pressure switch (turns on the idiot light in the dash when your oil level is so low the engine doesn't generate oil pressure - which is too late to find out) They crack from impact damage or just fatigue. There should also be a mystery wire floating around there with a female spade terminal on it.
Just replaced it, showed the above picture to the autozone employee and he immediately knew what it was. Exactly as you described, and so far no more oil leaking. Also, you are right on the female connection, I removed it but it's reconnected now on the new one. Funny thing is I was going to remove the old plastic and replace it with epoxy. I felt like this was an old part that I wasn't ever going to find anywhere. The good thing is this part is used on other engines, which is why this part is still available, is what the autozone employee told me.
Picture of the new oil pressure sensor installed:
Attachment 20457
Part Number for oil pressure switch:
Attachment 20458
If you ever want to fuel your paranoia about oil pressure problems, you can replace the sender switch for a pressure sender and add an oil pressure gauge to the dash. Ignorance is bliss bro...
A cute little gauge, hehe I wonder if they make them. Super newb question:
What does oil pressure have to do with our engines?
Oil pressure is like the heart pumping blood through your veins - if there is low pressure, your circulation isn't good. Oil pressure keeps moving parts lubricated adequately. Loss of oil pressure means less oil is circulating through the engine.
Oil pressure is the make or break on every engine. It only takes oil starvation for a short period to damage an engine. Anyone who owns a G63B in these trucks are consciously aware that there are inherent oil circulation issues with the heads and oil galleries in the front of the block (#1 big end and main journals). A gauge will let you know when your oil is starting to break down (small drop in pressure) or your oil pump is struggling, or the condition of the bearings in general. It will let you know if there is a catastrophic engine failure about to take place before your engine seizes up.
Engine runs great, but now I am worried I could have ruined the engine because of the leaking oil pressure switch. Am I being paranoid?
If you damaged it you would know right away - bad bearings are not shy...Geronimo had that happen with the oil safety pressure switch - it shot out through the terminals on the back of the switch, and sprayed right on the exhaust header. I was climbing a hill at the time - was able to pull off before I lost all oil pressure.
Oh great, I hope everything is okay.
I guess I won't know until I know. Thanks guys for the replies.
You can put a tee fitting in there and keep the light, and have a gauge. That's what I did. The threads in the block are 1/8-28 british pipe thread. I got an adapter to 1/8-27 pipe thread so that I could use easily sourced plumbing pieces. I got an oil sender for 15 psi with american threads (I think for an older GM or Ford) and a sun-pro gauge. I didn't put that in until after i removed the balance shafts, but cruising at 3k rpm I usually see 85-90psi. Never below 25 at idle.
Can you share a picture of your setup, sounds interesting.
I'll snap a picture tomorrow
Awesome, I'll check it out when you upload a picture.
Attachment 20507Don't mind the oily mess. I have a very slow leak from the fitting that goes to the oil pressure gauge. I drive 500 miles a week, so the oil and dirt build up quick.
That's gorgeous. Nice job, I like creative things like this.
An oil pressure gauge is a good idea but mechanical gauges are an invitation to trouble. Imagine if it blew under the dash - it would make a hell of a mess but at least you'd know something was wrong before your engine ate itself. The fittings in the engine bay are constantly being exposed to vibration which is probably the reason why Giovannis' is weeping. Chucking the oil pressure switch for a sender and using an electrical gauge eliminates a bunch of inherent problems - just an opinion :)
Mine has actually weeped from the day I installed it. The compression fitting was poorly machined. I have a vibration isolating coil not seen in the photo, and then the line is secured to the body. But yes, there is a risk of line failure. If you isolate the line from vibration, or use a flexible connection such as some braided hose, it should last the life of the vehicle. If you don't isolate the vibration it's only a matter of time. Just like brake and fuel lines. I prefer mechanical gauges because they are cheap and reliable. I've never actually seen a failed mechanical gauge. I have had problems with electrical gauges, but those connections are prone to corrosion from the insane amounts of road salt they dump in the winter here in New England.
At least you used copper lines - why anyone would use the see through plastic ones and think it's ok is beyond me :shakehead: You are right, the electric ones can be dubious when it comes to accuracy but they will give you a ball park reading and the worst that can happen is the sender fails. Road salt isn't something we've ever had to deal with in Australia but I bet it wreaks havoc on anything with wheels. Wonder if brushing on that liquid rubberised paint would work in protecting something like that? :think:
First thing I did was huck the poly line right in the trash! Road salt is awful stuff, my frame is in good shape, but the toe boards and rockers are pretty bad. I did some shameful patches this spring because I needed to get an inspection. I could tape over the holes in the side of the bed, but the cab had to be metal. Hopefully this year I get it sorted out properly. Then i’ll start oiling the chassis every fall.
Do you use fluid film for your chassis? What oil do you use?
I haven't done it yet. I may go with something petroleum based. The whole underbody of the truck was sprayed with a rubberized undercoating years before I owned it. When it dries out it cracks, lets in moisture and retains it accelerating rot. The Falcon in my avatar has been laid up with rot in the floor pans and torque boxes for the same reason. The area by the tailshaft housing gets a small amount of atf misted on it, and the rubber coating is nice and tacky there. If fluid film will restore the tackiness then that is probably what I will go with. I plan on picking up a can and giving it a try. I really don't want to be dripping something environmentally unfriendly off the truck, but stripping the rubbery tar coating is unrealistic.
Rust sucks sometimes, I'm surprised that we don't have stainless vehicles by now.
If you end up using fluid film, share your experience with us.
Morris chassis wax
Top stuff for Brit cars
Morris chassis wax is a British version of fluid film, or is it the other way around? Both need renewed yearly or sooner depending on usage, and will not dry out and crack.
most things now-days are made from plastic and aluminum one of our little trucks have more metal in them than all of the vehicles in a car lotQuote:
Originally Posted by BJH324JH
stainless body panels are too heavy to be used on autos. Allegheny Ludlum rebodied a few cars to showcase stainless for cars - 2 or 3 32 Ford Model A's , a Lincoln Continental and a Tbird. The Lincoln ended up weighing 8500 lbs, vs 6500 for the steel bodied one.
Delorean. Seemed like a great idea but expensive to make nowadays and a freaking nightmare to straighten (might not be as bad an aluminium hood on a GTR but I wouldn't want to find out...) They don't want cars that last 50 years, no money in it. Land Rover made alu bodied 4x4's but they didn't factor in electrolysis from the alu being mounted to a steel chassis. End result was nasty...Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesw
and the DeLorean's were pigs because of the weight of the SS panels and the design expecting a more powerful motor that didn't happen.
they can make steel panels last as long as they want, but they won't.
Auto makers r in the business of making money = selling as many units as possible.
These old turds r only clogging up the streets n getting in their way
They have steel formulas down to a science.... as if the metal had a timer
Explorers for example; they make the roof rust/rot out n put a wear-prone timing chain at the back of the motor
Hella expensive to repair. That aint no accident
i restored a land rover last year.... dunno wtf i was thinkin, to even touch that pos job. Got it done tho, owner happy
while the door skins were aluminum, but crimped over steel door frames, that rusted horribly.
Had to change all 4 doors, fab window channels & power window hardware, etc... what a ride!
Car companies do dumb stuff all the time. Get a committee of accountants together and have them managed by non-car guys and engineers, you will end up with a major car manufacturer in no time.
Dash is spot on.
I just cut a 92 camry for parts about 2 months ago. Unfortunately the car the straight metal went onto blew up too so now it's probably going to crusher. But both chassis were absolutely spotless. Toyota went all out in 92 because they wanted to gain serious entry to the big car market. 25 years in New England and they both were still rot free. By 97 they cut corners to lower production costs, and the rot started. I see way more 92-96 camry's around here than I do 97-01 which have all rotted and gone to the junkyard.Attachment 20543
It will depend on where they sourced their steel from. Italian car makers got a bad rep for making rust buckets due to them using Russian steel. Uncle Dimitri offered them a 'good deal' but forgot to mention why the steel was cut price. Sometimes the car companies themselves are responsible for the problem - lousy production values. Ford "Rus-tank" with no paint under the dash chassis or bulk heads (an extra 45 seconds with a spray gun is too much to ask for in a $50k car...) Yep this thread has gone off course for long enough :P