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Hi All,
Im looking to do some front end work, to tighten things up (lots of clunking and a pretty bouncy ride).
Already recieved the tie-rod ends, etc. but im looking on RockAuto for shock absorbers, and Im hoping for some guidance in ordering.
RockAuto seams to offer KYB, Gabriel and Monroe, at a variety of prices. I just saw a video on youtube saying that KYB shocks suck, so im hesitant about buying them.
Anyone out there have any advice before I spend money?
Thanks in advance!
sam
Idk, I have kyb shocks in front and they do ok. I also have changed all my suspension bushings to energy suspension bushings and changed sway bar bushings as well. You could go with whatever brand of gas shocks but I would definitely change the bushings if they are worn.
Thanks Max,
I dont know anyting about KYB or any other shock.
Just looking around the interweb and seeing/hearing things.
Im actually considering KYB, after more research.
Are all these bushings you mentioned available on RockAuto? What are 'Energy Bushings'?
A set of KYBs on a D-50 will last a life time. 25 years on mine.
A brand of urethane bush. General consensus is urethane will offer better feel as they are less compliant than rubber (they won't squash or deform as much which improves handling and keeps your front end closer to true alignment). I've bought a cheap set of Commando heavy duty foam cell shock absorbers for my Gen 1 front end (they're $20 cheaper now than what I payed for them, typical...https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Front-S...oAAOSweLBaXwcr ) Seeming they're going on a RWD and won't be off roaded, I think they'll do ok as some reviews have been less than glowing as far as quality is concerned. I'll be getting Whiteline front control arm bushes when the cash tide starts to come back in https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whitelin...m4383.l4275.c1Quote:
Originally Posted by Sampson
I'm using this stuff as I won't get burnt by freight costs.
KYB are ok. I run KYB AGX adjustables on my 2.25" lowered daily driven 240x and ride is 'fine'. Tight
A good compromise, and they aren't even shorter shocks as they should b
A buddy was dumping a S13 240sx, so I cut off the "free" front clip to use in my truck
Somewhat 'major' undertaking, but worth the benefits imo
Rack conversion would rid me of these notorious leaky steering box(mine does). No crappy bushing to deal with
No need for $300 drop spindles. EZ 5 lug. Cheap brake upgrade & shock/spring options
Swiped the steering column + full 4wheel disc brake system.
Stock 240sx performance from a lowered mitsu pickup would b just what the doctor ordered
Not sure what the Gen 2 steering link set up looks like but there is all kinds of grief in converting a Gen 1 into rack and pinion. To make it work may actually fix the dumb column angle but there's all sorts of obstacles potentially fouling the rack path. What do you do about the strut tower assembly from the 240? The Nissan rack looks like it would work great in Mitsu rwd cars but the truck has inherent problems.
wont b n e mitsu hardware left to cause n e grief. I'll preserve 100% oem nissan geometry. Front sump motors still clear
Graft both at the frame rails, and c where nissan tension rod/mount point need mating to mitsu lower radiator support
Yes, truck will have strut towers (firmly blended between firewall ends, just as the nissan)
At oem 240 suspension height, truck body 'should' sit ~ 2" lower.... we'll c
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I ordered new tie rod end, and more. I assume they all have normal rubber bushings. I'll probly hang on to the old hardware and replace the bushings, if/when necessary, with something more high-tech.
As for the shocks; i simply got some KYB replacement shock. Hope to put them in this weekend...
If the suspension hasn't been touched then everything is going to be dead. It's all going to be 30 years old and rubber doesn't even last that long. If you're about to pull it all apart now is the right time to replace bushes, pivots and ball joints (you'll have to if you're doing shocks and tie rods ends anyway). Just an opinion...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sampson
Check the travel distance on the shocks if you did any type of lift or suspension work Had a set of shocks that did not have enough travel to fit on my D50.
And it's an Excellent Opinion !Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I did the same thing myself when I went the lowering route, even though some of the pieces still looked ok.
Changed out all of it, Ball Joints, Bushings, Pitman, Idler, etc. Ride is Nice and smooth and steering isn't bad at all. (with this untouched box)
Although for what ever reason, and maybe it's the bad alignment, the Idler Arm bushing did Not last, and now I have to either change
the arm asm. or get the Bushing Repair kit as suggested by Pennyman.
But like Geezer said, if you're under there changing one or two things, it's not that much more cash, and will pay Huge dividends in ride and steering quality, to just go ahead and change it all out. (and Yes, Rock Auto has all of it)
Ive ordered and recieved all those parts mentioned. Really looking forward to doing the work (Im new to this, but it seems straight forward), but need to find the time.
As an aside, is there any advantage to lowering the truck, or is it a cosmetic preference?
Lowering any vehicle has pros and cons. It will lower the trucks' centre of gravity (good for handling) and lowering it 2.5" will alter the front wheel camber by 1.5 degrees (even more gooderer for handling). Not super great if you want to haul stuff due to a loss in suspension travel, and lowering it radically will cause it to either bottom out or just plain sit on the bump stops - not so good for handling (read as 'beat the crap out of it' and you may require a good chiropractor afterwards)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sampson
you need to trim the bump stops front and rear to restore some travel in the suspension of a lowered truck. To prevent bottoming out of the front shocks, use a 1" spacer between the bottom of the LCA and the shock - this also puts the shock closer to the working length of the shock.
This is my experience. I had never done anything like this before. I have Gabriel coil overs on the back and I forget brand but I think also Gabriel regular shocks on the front. Everything that was a bushing or moving part of the steering.suspension is new. I also added cab mount bushings. It made a surprising amount of difference. Would help If I added the link :)
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5977-1st-gen-front-disc
lots of good work, and pics!
how did you get the metal all cleaned up like that?
what are cab mount bushings and how do they effect things?
geezer, can lowering be as simple as cutting springs? what about in the back?
is there a happy medium between improved handling and maintaining some load capacity?
Yes - don't do it. I mean my parts truck has cut springs on it and although it didn't pop a spring when the PO rolled it twice, I wouldn't do it myself. It's ride height is low but not OTT and even though it was hell beat up, it drove o.k. and felt competent on the road (yes, I test drove it with the corners of the cab crushed and the windscreen completely out) It will lower your truck (goal obtained) and stiffen the suspension (bonus second objective). But it's not as easy as cut off one coil and you know how much you've lowered it (different spring rates, different numbers of coils, different ride heights...) and it will affect the integrity of the spring (same load, less spring to absorb it). If you are going to do this, go half a coil at a time. Cut them, drive on them for a week and let them settle in. DON'T GAS TORCH THEM LIKE A MORON. This is an instant game over for the spring and is completely unpredictable in regards of how it will affect the integrity of the spring (whatever it does the metal has been overtempered and will lose it's elastic properties)
Use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel, clamp it down firm and play safe. :thumbup:
Didn't mention the rear. Lowering blocks (real die cast or CNC'd) are the most common way to drop the rear ride height. Could use steel square tube as long as you weld a cover on both open ends to increase the rigidity of the tubes. Has to be decent quality steel tubing with wall thickness not less than 3/16" or they could easily collapse. Something to look at - https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...blocks.265258/
Weigh up what they'll cost to buy vs what time and resources you have at your disposal. You'll still need U shackles and other related hardware to mount them but if you have most of the stuff on hand, why not give making homebrew blocks a shot? Better than making them out of that lump of hardwood in the shed (you can shake your heads and laugh but some guys' desperation to save a buck outweighs their will to live...)
I sprayed with engine cleaner let it soak and hit it with the hose and used a wire brush where I had to. I also used a lot of rags.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sampson
The cab mounts are 3 on each side and are a rubber or silicon. Putting in new levels it out and you get less squeak when you drive. If my seat wasn't absolute crap it would probably feel better too :) Look in the manuals section for the gen one factory service manual you can see where they are.
there are urethane cab mounts available on eBay for our trucks - I put a set on Geronimo, as his original ones were 36 years old at the time and starting to sag.
Great info did not know they existed in urethane.
I think I meant Urethane when I said silicon. That is what I put in. I used a link someone else posted on the site.
probably the one I posted for them...
Happy to know camoit I just installed the rear KYB’s in less then 30 min was pretty proud of my self. Have the front but reserving a little more time as it will be a first time switching. Already notice the difference in the rear