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i just swapped out my head on my g54b had a jet head bought a non jet head but had to go to manuel rockers i still have the stock cam in it got it all adjusted for valve lash thats .15 mm for intake and .25 for exhgaust still very noisy and it dosnt feel like its hitting on all 4 cylinders .. other modes include a 3236 weber a pacesetters header kn and n filter and an electric fan doi i need to replace th cam too or are my adjustments to loose???
The number of times I have done mechanical tappets I've ended up adjusting them by 'feel'. You have to do them hot or it'll make them load up on the valves when the engine reaches operating temps. When I can feel a tiny bit of play on the rocker, I lock up the adjuster and go to the next one. It takes practice. If I use gauges I always end up with a top end that sounds like a typewriter. And it also depends on how much wear the rockers and rocker shafts have on them. That one noisy tappet might be due to a worn out rocker/shaft.
the head and rocker are brand new my other thought was the oil my mechinic put 5-30 synthetic in it ive always run 10-40 or 20 -50 with a high millage additive thanks ill go back and hand adjust the rockers see what happens
the head and rocker are brand new my other thought was the oil my mechinic put 5-30 synthetic in it ive always run 10-40 or 20 -50 with a high millage additive thanks ill go back and hand adjust the rockers see what happens
All new rocker gear is nice, makes setting it all up that much easier. Good luck. Nothing like a quiet valvetrain. :thumbup:
those adjustments seem loose, but which valves are you using? the mechanical valves are a different length than the hydraulic, so the adjustments are going to be different due to the difference in valve length.
im not sure what lenth they are do you think the adjustments by feel is a good idea???
i got the gap from a pajero manuel with mechinal rockers
Adjust by feel is going to be your best bet - check out the starquest forums about this - they swap back and forth all the time.
thank you i will do that the loose adjustments probably are why im feeling a power loss too.. ill keep you posted on the outcome thanks again
Bill
with the manual rockers should i use a heaver weight oil its got 5w-50 synthetic right now???
You shouldn't need to run a heavier oil unless you know you have an inherent oil burn issue or an oil pressure issue.
one last question i think the answer is no ,, but is there any chance a valve could kiss a piston setting them by feel????
...and you're right - no chance of damaging a valve if it's over adjusted (unless you go really crazy with it and even then I think it would still be a no) Worse case scenario is the valve not seating and getting no compression.Quote:
Originally Posted by rattler
thank you again i thought about it alot and couldnt see how it might but i felt safer asking so far on this engine ive replaced the head water pump timing chain and related hard wear on compression testing i average 160 lbs per cylinder odemiter says almost 300.00 on it i traded for the truck there wqaas alot done wrong to it.. . so when i do this by feel how much valve lash should i have is any??? oh a correction on my oil weight its 5 w -30 not 50 anain much thx
If you can just feel the rocker move when the adjuster isn't loaded up on the valve, it is good. It might take a few shots to get the feel of it due to the tension of locking them up with a 12mm ring spanner affecting them, but you'll get it eventually. But it has to be done hot. The old adage was "a slappy tappet is a happy tappet" but my lecturer would respond to that by saying - "until the tappet beats the head off the valve and half your lift is gone..." You'll get it running nice and quiet and have as much lift as the cam is capable of, which is a good thing. And the repetitive shock of a loose tappet will weaken a valve (image hitting a nail 3,000 times a minute with a hammer - it would turn the nail into jelly)
again thank you very much it might be a few days before iu get it done i have a slight case of the flu right now but will report back as soon as i get it finnished the original directionss came out ofg a pajero manuel i found on line it describes the o fer after getting tdc and doing it hot i followed the directions and like you said sounded like a type writer thx again
Bill
today i adjusted my rockers with signifagent reduction in noise im believing that i should get it right next time i do have another question after reading and ponderinbg im thinking my fuel pump the stock n\mechinical one probably isnt working properly any more looking at electric pumps the question is how many gph do i need i have a holly fuel regulator in place set at 3.5 psi thusly i think i screwed up my pump
With setting the tappets by feel, practice makes less imperfect. As for the fuel pump thing, are you running a Weber? (I should go back and read all of your posts but everybody wants to take a short cut lol) Don't bother messing with fuel pressure regulators, you can find an electric fuel pump that will meet your needs (GPH or PSI). Yup, a pressure reg on a stock mechanical pump will eventually kill it. If you're running a Weber, I'd recommend a Carbole 42S pump - it's a high flow, low pressure pump and you can get them off ebay cheap. If you're worried that it might be a case of "you get what you pay for", check out the Carbole pump then take a look at the Mr Gasket pump that is more than double the price. Notice anything?Quote:
Originally Posted by rattler
thanks agaiun lol a man after my own e bay heart its amazing the 42s is exactly the one i was looking at seems its listed by quite a few other sellers too when i found out the pressure reg would kill my stock pump the puzzle came toegther im gonna order the 42s and remove thge regulator thanks again for your vauable advice thr valve train quyited down alot im gonna redo it again lol i have gloves so i dont burn my self this time
'thxz again
bill
can i adjust the mechincal rocker to be as quite as the hydrolic
*yes. But it will depend on the condition of the rocker shafts, the rocker arms and how well you can adjust them by feel. If the head and valvetrain gear is fresh, your chances of getting it to run quiet(er) are good. They will always have a little chatter and I have found there's always one or 2 adjusters that refuse to shut up lol. There's nothing more irritating than pulling up next to a car at the lights and hearing the top of their engine rattling like a machine gun (either badly adjusted rockers or no oil :shakehead:)
thank you again i think im getting closer now then
hi again i have another question is it possible to change out my manuel rockers and replace them with my factory hydrolic lifters my big concern would be oil journals lining up .... any thoughts
thx
bill
I think the issue will be rocker lift ratios and the difference in the lift 'point'. I think the ends of the hydraulic lifter rockers are thicker which will affect where they sit when installed. I have a feeling they will automatically lift the minute you try to install them and force the valves open before the cam lobes wipe the rockers. I could be wrong so hopefully another member will chime in on this one.
The rocker shafts are different for the hydraulic vs the manual rockers, to supply oil to the hydraulic lash adjustors. Since you said the truck originally came with hydraulic lifters, you should have no problem.
the new head was with manuel lifters i still have the hydraulic lifter complete the new head i believe came with a new cam too do i need to change the cam too ,, when i dig into this im gonna compare oil journals on the lifter rods i really hate mixing old with new but i cant seem to get the lifters quite enough for my taste ,, plus the extra maintenance. ium hoping to just takew out the lifters and recplace them with the original set providing theres oil jourtnals to supplement the lifters
thx again
Bill
I think the hydraulic vs mechanical cams are different (the journal supports are different diameters...?) so they aren't cross compatible AFAIK. There are pros and cons with both valvetrain set ups. Mechanical requires adjustments from time to time but offer full lift once set (better from a performance viewpoint), hydraulics don't need manual adjustment but do wear out and lose lift when engine oil is overdue for changing or there's an oil pressure issue. Also the lubrication in the mechanical heads is a bit 'hit and miss' (I know this is an issue with mechanical G63B heads but IDK about the 4G54).