Newbie with Dad's 1994 Mighty Max

Hey guys/gals great site! I've been browsing the forum trying to get some questions answered and so far so good. Back in 1994 my Dad bought a white exterior with blue interior standard cab Mighty Max from Big Billy Barrett Mitsubishi in Dallas, TX. He drove that little truck everyday to work and back and racked up 100's of thousands of miles. He used to kid me because he said it was all done on the original clutch. (I burned through two clutches on my 1993 Civic within a short amount of time...I drove little different than Dad) But anyway he kept up all maintenance on it for years. Unfortunately, my Dad passed in 2005 and the truck wasn't driven very often because it was a stick and my Mom couldn't drive it. My oldest brother assumed ownership of it and drove it until the clutch, transmission, and engine finally failed. He retired last year and began working on restoring the truck. He had all the mechanicals repaired or replaced, but unfortunately the good Lord chose to take him to be with HIM this past February. Fast forward to present and I am the new caretaker of this cool little truck. I purchased it from my brother's estate and began a thorough cleaning process.

I removed the seat, carpeting, seat upholstery and power washed everything. Everything was re-installed and it looks like a million bucks. I applied paint cleaner and then waxed it as well, making her shine again. I plan on teaching my kids how to drive it and hopefully they'll see the sentimental value the truck has.

Anyway, thanks for having me and I look forward to reading more about these great little trucks!

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Sorry to hear of the passing of your brother. Your truck has a good family history and I think your dad would be proud. These trucks are a tough and reliable bit of machinery and as your dad had proved, they will do their thing as long as you service them regularly and don't expect it to pull down mountains. When you have mastered uploading pics, start a thread and post some photos up for us! :)

Here are a few photos of the truck after a good cleaning. I also removed the back bumper, one because it was bent and two because when my Dad bought it didn't come with one. It's really funny how plain-jane this little truck really is. Bare bones transportation to say the least.

One more thing, the original steering wheel is going back on. My brother added the smaller rally steering wheel because it gave him a little more wiggle room inside the cab, since he was a bigger guy.

What a beautiful specimen! There's much to be said about simplicity. This truck is a wonderful treasure, and you have no where to go but up, from here!

Is that a circa '72 Torino wagon in the garage? Looks like you take good care of classics.

If you plan to wax your truck, try washing it with soap, but also cleanser. The cleanser is a good prep for waxing, as it is just abrasive enough to take off road scum but not hurt the finish.

If you can post a picture or two of the engine, we can tell you what it is. (Note also the metal plate on the firewall, passenger side, should have that information).

Quote:

---

Engine:

I.D.K.?

---

Ya know I meant to change that "IDK", but I left the engine info at home.

Good eye, Yes it's a 1973 Ford Torino wagon "replica" of the one my Dad bought brand new in 1973 from McAnary Ford in Gary, Indiana.


It took me about 3 1/2 years to restore her, but we LOVE it!

BEFORE photo:

Wow, what a transformation! If you did THAT to a Ford, your little truck is going to be show-room sweet!

Nice work and welcome to the forum. :) I use to like the Vista Cruiser for their curved roof glass. My parents owned a Dodge Sierra wagon with a push button Automatic.

I finally had time to go over to my brother's place and search for that Steering wheel and thank GOD I found it. It has some sun damaged dry rot, but I think I can clean it up and possibly add a steering wheel cover to make it look good again before I re-install it.

I've been working on the steering wheel this week and it was more sun damaged than I hoped. I took it all apart and cleaned it up really good using POR-15 products. I used Marine Clean-Degreaser then let it dry over night before I masked it off and filled in the cracks with POR-15 filler putty/epoxy. After that, I let dry over night again and then used Klean-Strip Bull Dog paint adhesion promoter before I painted it with some vinyl dye. I then used some vinyl to construct a steering wheel cover, which I still have to sew on the steering wheel in a baseball stitch pattern before it goes back on the truck. What do you guys think?


Instructional video from YOUTUBE (not mine): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sStxk4mv_DY

Here are a few photos of the repaired wheel itself and a new clock I found at a local salvage yard.

Most of these products were left over from my wagon restoration so I am not out very much money.

wow, great job on that

Outstanding :clap1: You even went the extra mile and made a wheel cover to match.

Thanks Guys for the kudos. I have a lead on a set of MM Sport chrome wheels with tires for $150.00. Being I'm just getting into this what do yall think? Is that a good deal for these wheels?

They are similar to these here:
https://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/m..._oem_1_500.jpg

Wheels and tires? IMO a pretty good deal. You would probably struggle to get just the wheels at that price. As long as they're not beat up.

Finally got the wheel back on...I like it!

WOO HOO! Nice job, and the whole cab looks great!

Thank you Sir. I took a quick photo of the engine tag:

So I went out to start the truck this morning and drive it around the lot when as soon as I placed the key in the ignition the horn started wailing. I hit the horn pad a few times to no avail. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to quiet down. I had read somewhere about the horn sticking like this, so I guess I have to do a little more research to remedy the problem.

If anyone has any tips or tricks about this I would appreciate it. Just FYI do not drive this truck everyday, but I do start it and drive it around the block a few times a month to keep everything in working order.

you really just want to give everything a clean with white spirits. Theres just a copper contact in there and a ring on the column. They can get gummed up with human slime over the years.
add a little electric grease in there if you like.

Although, i think the horn is always live, did you knock it getting in? because i would imagine it would have gone before the truck was started.
Might be that the ground wire in the horn pad has come loose

The insulating pad in them goes bad and then they make permanent contact. You'll need to take the horn pad off and look at the condition of the pad underneath it. You can bodge one together easily enough.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I will drive her home this weekend and take a look. Hopefully I can get it fixed. This was the horn repair "How-to" I remember reading once before:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ht=horn+repair

Welcome , cool machines you have. The truck is obviously in the right hands. They come to us in so many different ways.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lowfat930

Welcome , cool machines you have. The truck is obviously in the right hands. They come to us in so many different ways.

---

Thank you Sir! It's great to have a place to go to and be able to ask a question and get a correct answer. :thumbup:

We do our best to steer you right (pun intended).

Well I did my horn pad repair, sorta, but it is still doing the same thing. As soon as I put the ignition key in the horn starts wailing on it's own. The horn pad itself isn't activating the horn and I know for certain that it is not making contact to activate the horn. I'm stumped. Could it be I have a faulty horn? I removed it and the exterior is rusty, but the connections all seem to look OK. My mechanical skills are limited to say the least, but I do like to attempt repairs before I take it to a Pro.

Any other suggestions of what it could be?

I'll post photos tomorrow when I get to my desk top PC of the horn pad repair. :(

Possibly the wire has worn through and is earthing out somewhere in the loom.
You probably want to trace it back through the loom. You could put a multimeter on the horn switch to confirm that its going open circuit

Check that you haven't accidentally bridged the circuit when you tried fixing the horn pad. If it was o.k. before the horn malfunctioned the chances are it's still the horn pad. A crusty/rusted out horn 'normally' wouldn't go off by itself - they either don't work or sound terrible.

Attachment 20113
This is what was under the horn pad when I got started. An old T-shirt with duct tape. Apparently either my brother or my Dad attempted a repair in the past that didn't quite work either. LOL!
Attachment 20114
The copper contact was pretty dirty/corroded as was the metal base. I took a stripper wheel to the metal base and went online to see about cleaning the copper contact. Low and behold Ketchup was suggested as a cleaning agent. After about 30 mins of soaking it came out pretty nice.
Attachment 20115Attachment 20121Attachment 20116Attachment 20117
I had some leftover seat foam out in the garage that I used for the repair. I cut two pieces making sure only the middle portion of the copper contact made contact with the metal base when pressed.
Attachment 20118Attachment 20119Attachment 20120
I ended up shaving the top piece of foam slightly thinner than shown because it made the cover bulge more than I liked, but it felt pretty good when pressing the horn pad. Unfortunately I still have an issue, but hopefully in the coming weeks I'll get a chance to track down the issue.

Thanks for yall's input and if there are any other suggestions I am all ears!

I came across this discussion of the horn: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado which got me thinking. I am wondering if when my brother changed the steering wheel out with the after market one if he removed the ring that sits behind the steering wheel itself? I don't remember what was behind there when I re-installed the original wheel.

It would sorta make sense because when I would put the ignition key in, the horn would start wailing, but when I turned the steering wheel it would change the horn's pitch. Hmmm??? Looks like I need to pull the steering wheel off again and check if that ring is there.

At least I have a lead now...LOL!

Well attempt #2...I removed the horn pad, steering wheel, and disassembled everything for a good cleaning. Since I didn't take any of this apart, my brother did when he added the smaller aftermarket steering wheel, I'm assuming I have my wiring wrong maybe?
Attachment 20129
This is how it was wired before

Attachment 20130
This is how I re-wired it, but it still didn't work. (I did attach that little tab seen here to the wire and this is where the wire from the horn pad attaches.


There is no copper ring behind the steering wheel like explained in the other post. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado There is metal ring with a wire attached which is part of the steering wheel itself. A thin yellowish metal tab rubs against this metal ring making contact at all times. I cleaned all these contact points. If something is missing please let me know. This is getting a little frustrating.

Attachment 20131 Attachment 20132

I did clean all the contacts and even played with the wiring behind the steering pad to no avail.

Attachment 20133 Attachment 20134

If anyone who has a functioning horn pad can please post a photo of where what goes where as far as wiring I'd greatly appreciate it....Thanks guys in advance!

Attachment 20135
On a side note, does anyone know what attaches to this plug? It is just dangling just below the fuse box?

I'm VICTORIOUS!!!!!! Guess who has been annoying the neighbors just driving around the block HONKING that DAM HORN? LOL!

Apparently I was making contact at the metal base and copper contact where the wire is attached on top of the horn pad. I used tacky "home door frame" weatherstripping instead of the seat foam because it doesn't move. It stays in place so it doesn't cause the unwanted contact.

Again I appreciate the help guys and I hope if anyone else has the same problem this helps yall as well.

Hey Guys/Gals...Next on the list is figuring out the BRAKE light on the dash cluster. It stays ON regardless if the Emergency Brake is ON or OFF. Any suggestions?

Check your brake fluid level :)

^ and make sure the float switch in the reservoir isn't stuck/jammed.

I'll check both of these suggestions and post my findings when I get some time...Thanks!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GPD294

Hey Guys/Gals...Next on the list is figuring out the BRAKE light on the dash cluster. It stays ON regardless if the Emergency Brake is ON or OFF. Any suggestions?

---

I know this is a real late reply, but if the brake light stays on, it could be the emergency brake cable isn't tight enough.
If it slips a little, the light will stay on.

Check the brake fluid level sensor in the brake reservoir. Might be jammed or your brake fluid is actually low.

That plug is your OBDI port.

If the brake fluid level was low, check for fluid leaks in the engine bay & around the brake master cylinder ---- DON'T do like me ---- Let your truck's inner fender rust out from brake fluid taking off the paint..!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chargerx3

That plug is your OBDI port.

---

OK Thanks! I tucked it back under the dash. :thumbup:

Also the brake fluid was low so that took care of that as well.

Not much to report on old girl, but the other day as I was driving her around I heard some popping sounds when shifting gears from the exhaust possibly? It normally happens when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear when accelerating.

Any ideas?

As always thanks for all the help. Even though I don't comment much I do read yall's posts. ;]

i get a popping sound on idle, your carb might need tuning. thats what fixed mine. but mine started popping after i instelled my new manifolw w/o egr and cat and res

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GPD294

Attachment 20135
On a side note, does anyone know what attaches to this plug? It is just dangling just below the fuse box?

---

thats the obd port, its supposed to hang there

Well guys I hate to report this, but I sold my Dad's Mighty Max. I just didn't drive it enough to warrant keeping it. I did get first right of refusal to buy it back if the new owner decides to part with it some day. I sold it to a friend of mine's nephew. Young kid who works for a local FORD dealership who needed a basic form of transportation so as far as that goes I felt good about it. At least the truck will get driven and serve it's purpose rather than just sitting.

I just wanted to thank you all who helped me answer questions and/or gave suggestions for various things I need help with.

I'll still occasionally browse the site and see what you guys are up too.

Thanks again and take care!