So just had a quick question. I got this engine in pieces so some things weren't there to begin with, just wondered if someone could tell me what might fill this threaded hole behind the timing belt. Thanks!
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So just had a quick question. I got this engine in pieces so some things weren't there to begin with, just wondered if someone could tell me what might fill this threaded hole behind the timing belt. Thanks!
pictures im finding are just showing a bolt/plug
http://www.l200.org.uk/gallery/album...m/4d56tm03.jpg
I thought it looked very similar to the threaded block off cap on the 4G63's...
I agree with them both. It just is a trap door to see that passenger side balance shaft and make it so you can reach in and loosen the bolt that is on the top of the balance shaft there.
Awesome, that's what I like to hear. Thanks everyone.
Episode two - part identification with a picture
sorry for my naivete
Anyone know where this goes? xD I am sorry I am very new to this engine, so starting in pieces was really stupid. There was a similar one to the oil pan for the dipstick, so I was thinking maybe it was a transmission fluid dipstick but cannot find a place for it.
Thanks again!
Looks like the external coolant gallery that runs off the water pump outlet, around the block to the heater hose and to the back of the head on most Mitsubishi engines (try saying that with a mouthful of peanuts!) The gallery brackets will line up with bolt holes on the block.
Yeah, so the end that the tube bends up and away is where a soft line goes into the cab for the heater, the larger end should have a rubber O-ring and is just pressed into the back of the water pump, there are only a few mounting points around towards the back of the block where it attaches to everything.
I second that. The female end just slides onto the water pump and then it bolts to the head and your heater core hose comes through the firewall and attaches to the male end. Don't judge me for assuming the gender of your coolant gallery! ;)
Alright, sounds good, thanks again everyone! The car it is going into had pretty much solid rust as coolant, so the heater core is dead as a door nail. I have a brand new bmw e30 heater core I may try to frankinstall.. we shall see. If I end up not being able to salvage any kind of heater core, do you guys think I could just cap the feed and return? Hopefully the small amount of cooling that it might provide is not crucial..
You can try soaking the heater core in a solution of citric acid powder and warm water, then flushing it out. You may be surprised. If anything it might have some pin holes in the end tanks (which can be soldered up). You can bypass the core with a single hose worst case scenario. If you choose to pull the blower box out and attempt to clean out the core, post a pic of what you find. IDK if the Colts all ran the same heater set ups, but I do have a really good condition heater core from a '75-'77 I won't be using in a rush...
Well I yanked it today, does this look like the same one? It looks like the core itself is pretty well built in, so I doubt I could replace it with the bmw one I have.. that would be great if it is the same one!
Kind of an excessive amount of pictures I suppose, but whatever makes it easy to compare.
The core pipes look different to the one I have. I don't know what advice to offer you on this one as the case appears to be spot welded together. If you got game you can drill the spot welds out, disassemble the case ends and then pop rivet it back together. If the core is toast you haven't lost anything, but this thing would be very simple to recondition if the heater core proves to be in half decent shape.
Fair enough, no worries. I will get a bunch of fluid running through it and see what comes out. Maybe there is hope yet!
almost looks like a d-50 / ram 50 1st gen core would work...
then again, maybe not - it was a thought, thanks for the visual. Maybe a starquest, since it is a car...
Geezers is similar to a Starquest (atleast the pipes with on off valve. noting 83-87 and 88-89 starquest cores are different and incompatible (related to the pipes but dont remember the exact thing)
Even if you wanted to make a starquest core work, the problem is, finding a GOOD core for a starquest (most leak and no replacements are available) and getting a used one is normally pricey for a good one, calls for 8 hrs to replace the core in one, and i can attest it does take a couple hours to pull the dang thing out. Might be better off making something like a dakota or s10 core work, they are also dirt cheap new
too bad - I have the whole heater unit from a conquest TSI sitting on a shelf if some one could use it...
How big do you think the heater core is? I have a weird alternative that will require some out 'of the box' thinking to connect a heater valve and make it work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Rad...cAAOSw4CFYtXT1
...absurdly cheap compared to an automotive core
Computer radiators do not have any pressure on them, also ment for lower temps, so i do not know how well it would work for you, along with the inlet/outlet is normally a little smaller than 3/8'sQuote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
might be worth checking but this is the top of a 87 and older coreQuote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/q...PIC_0997-1.jpg
At this point I am banking on the old one cleaning up to some degree.
Another question for you fantastic 4d55 people. I will definitely have to do something here, but I am just curious how bad these engines shake? My clearances are pretty microscopic at the moment.. in fact the transmission is as close as matters touching the hard lines in the firewall (as seen).
You don't want the engine touching any solid mounted lines regardless on how much it moves. If you can re-route the lines that would be option #1. Option #2 is to move the engine forward a little somehow (maybe by modifying the mounts...?) Won't need to be moved by much.
your engine appears to be to far back. the valve cover you should be fine, however those brake lines you are going to hit. The engine has quiet a bit of movement pending the condition of the motor mounts.
Yeah, I was definitely going to do something about where the lines hit. I am tempted to reroute them if I can figure out how.. the engine bolts up to the original mounts first of all, and second of all there is ZERO room up front either. It is pretty well shoehorned in. I will have to look into how best to re-rout them. I am already devising a mad plan to place the radiator in the trunk with some kind of air scoop, because there is already no room for that. Well nobody said it would be easy, probably because nobody has done it before (probably) haha.
what year is this truck? my 89 with a 2.0 i swapped my d56 in has a lot of room, bolted up to the stock mounts too
Electric thermo fan time (jeez I don't say it often :lmao:) Front mount it to the radiator, buy yourself some precious engine bay room and solve some cooling issues in the process.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSloth
Skullzaflare the engine has been fitted to a '71 Colt hardtop thus the lack of engine bay space -
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...t-turbo-diesel
So I may possibly try to talk to an acquaintance of mine and see how much he would charge to make a custom radiator... I am not sure I want to shell out for that though haha. We shall see!
Still trying to find that plug for the front, just above the balance shaft. I ordered an M18 plug when 16 was too small. It was still too small, and my tiny town doesn't have anything larger than 14mm in stock anywhere.. pretty lame. So I have a 19 and 20 on the way. I will probably have to shave it down to get on there around that belt. As you can see from the first post on this thread, it is pretty tight.
If anyone has some pictures of the water pump and specifically the inlet and outlet to the radiator, I would be very appreciative! Still yet to find someone in town with one that I can stare at at length for inspiration haha. I got the starter and alternator finally and have them on there. Took me a stupidly long time to realize the alternator went on the passenger side not the drivers side xD
Interestingly enough, that 90 degree bent tube I posted wondering where it went earlier in this thread lines up EXACTLY under the heater core line in the colt! Pretty awesome. Small victories.
So, probably gonna be time for a new thread soon? Dunno whether to keep posting here and not clutter things up..
Anyway. After waiting altogether too long for this thing to show up from Cyprus it appears that a 4d56 thermostat housing is not the same as a 4d55 thermostat housing.
Anyone happen to have an extra for a 4d55 I could buy? Or should I consider getting a 4d56 water pump and keep this? This has been quite an exercise in parts hunting.
So the 4D56 thermostat housing is smaller than the 55? I'm willing to bet good money (or in this case short change) that the 4D55 thermostat housing is the same size as the regular gas MM. Thermostat listings appear to be the same - get a housing gasket to compare it against yours.
Quite a few of the components for the gas engines are interchangeable with the diesel. The main bearings are the same between the 2.6 and the 4D55. I haven't tried, but they may very well be the same thermo housing.
I will have to look into that.
I suppose there is a possibility that the seller got it wrong too, but it seemed like a legit listing.
I think I have a thermo gasket in my gasket set somewhere, so I will check this weekend. Sorry for the slow pace in the Colt thread, work+finals week=no free time :rolleyes:
That is the "water outlet" where the thermostat goes, the piece you bought bolts at the top of the engine by the injection pump. (im interested if you wanna sell it lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSloth
d55 and d56 water outlet (thermostat on waterpump) are the same
I could be wrong, but i recall reading the mains were bigger, i know the g54 is 60mm, but i think the d55 is 66mmQuote:
Originally Posted by dancinggecko
G54 thermo housing MIGHT have same bolt pattern, however g54 thermo housing turns almost 90 off intake. The d55 is straight off the water pump
it depends on the year of 2.6 which size the main bearings are - they had 60 or 66 mm
I must admit I am a bit confused by your reply. So the piece I have has nothing to do with the water pump outlet and thermo housing( on any engine?) I can't find where this might go on the other side near the injector pump, is that just for 4d56?
I'd trade for the piece I need if you have an extra xD
Quote:
Originally Posted by skullzaflare
that is the piece your top radiator hose connects to. Unfortunately i only have one water outlet for my waterpump
I think the part you are looking for is MD152090
How dead is this thread? It looks like the OP pieced together a block and head? Where from?