Anyone have any after market speakers for the front dash ? I want an entire Sony system, and want some ideas for the existing speakers or an alternative. Thank you for your thoughts. Gs
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Anyone have any after market speakers for the front dash ? I want an entire Sony system, and want some ideas for the existing speakers or an alternative. Thank you for your thoughts. Gs
MIHIFISHI has posted he was able to fit 5.25" speakers in the factory dash speaker location. Don't use Sony speakers - they are barely reasonable in build quality (or Pioneer - insert facepalm here...). You are going to be limited with what speaker you install in the factory locations due to the lack of depth available. *Speakers in the dash tend not to last as long due to prolonged heat exposure, windscreen condensation and direct daylight. Good quality sounding car audio comes with sacrifice - like cutting up door trims. If there's a business that sells a good range of car audio gear local to you, go take a look at them and try some of them out. Speakers with small magnets, thin pressed steel chassis, speaker cones that feel like the lid off a sandwich spread and little rivetted speaker terminals = JUNK. Best advice I can give you is try out split system speakers. A set of 5.25" or 6" midrange speakers with tweeters and cross over circuits sound better than a dual cone or co-axial speaker. You can get some good deals online but you need to know what you're buying.
I thought the factory speakers were 4.5" not 5.25 " in the dash, but it has been years since I had a 2nd gen.
AFAIK standard speaker sizes start @ 4" (and as with most mass manufactured vehicles, Mitsubishi would've cheaped out and bought a low wattage standard size speaker), but as per my previous post MIHIFISHI has managed to fit 5.25"s in the factory dash locations -Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...7561#post37561 Unfortunately it looks like he hasn't updated this thread so we don't know the outcome.
I decided to install the CD./radio unit I bought myself for Christmas a couple years ago. Well I have the dash speaker out. It is an oddball. I found this website but the speakers they show come in pairs and do not have the correct mounting holes. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/dodg...-speakers.html So I emailed them the picture and am awaiting a reply to see if they have anything that fits properly like the OE. :)) Does anyone have that speaker part number?
Attachment 20464
That is 6.75" center to center on the mounting holes. 3.5x5.75 actual speaker measurement. I can see how a 5.25 round speaker might fit if the two corner mounts were far enough apart. I was hoping the good 6x8 out of my Dakota would fit. Off by about an inch and probably too deep for the location.
I don't want to throw a wet blanket your plan, but why are you using an OEM single speaker with a new CD radio head unit? You have spent the money and it would be a disappointment not to get the enjoyment out of it. The new head unit will have at least 4 speaker outputs which is a quantum leap over the mono channel radio Mitsubishi fitted over 30 years ago. The door chassis will take a pair of 4" speakers, but with any older vehicle you will need to cut up a trim or make speaker mounts to get the benefit of car audio. There are good ways and not so good ways (like my Gen 1 where some idiot took an angle grinder to the rust free doors to fit the nastiest, cheap 6x9's and consequently destroy a pair of good door trims).
:)) Thanks Geez. The head unit is a cheapo $55 job from Malwarts. I did not know better and I cut up the dash when I put the $25 tape deck radio in it and threw the OE AM radio out when I bought it. I also cut two holes for 6" rounds in the doors. If I knew then what I know now... I am going to use two door speakers from my Dakota(I replaced all those speakers) and the dash mounted speaker if I can find a good one new. I had planned to get this item http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/dashtop_highliner_headliner/1104000116_32560G.aspx# and go with 5 speakers but they sold the last one that fits the 1st gen. I waited too long.
EDIT- Apparently I did not copy the link right. If it still doesn't work now that I repasted it, copy paste it the addy is correct.
Are you sh*ttin' me - they made these for Gen 1's? I was looking at using one from a full size truck and cutting it down but they are expensive and I have a feeling the freight would've been brutal (big chunk of cash to invest in something that might not work and is only for a stereo install...) As it is I'd have to make an overhead console for a stereo due to my dash being slaughtered by the same for-mentioned PO (I converted the slot for a triple 2" gauge set and I don't want to wreck my good lower console) Good head units are do-able on the cheap, I don't want to come across as some kind of snob but for a few bucks more you can get a half decent CD player or even a digital mechless unit that plays from an iPod/iPhone/USB stick. I have a box of insane car audio gear but it's too over the top for a little truck cab and it's worth more than the truck (in dollars anyway) All I'm planning on using is a used digital mechless tuner with a very cheesy surround sound module and 2 pairs of speakers (which I haven't decided on yet, maybe a pair of 4"s with 6" or 6.5" splits in the doors and pillars...)
EDIT- THIS METHOD DID NOT WORK. THE PLYWOOD WAS TOO BIG. THE SIDES OF THE OE SPEAKER MOUNT ARE THE ABSOLUTE LIMIT ON WIDTH. LOOK BELOW I REUSED THE OE SPEAKER FRAME.
The one they had was $229US if I remember correctly. Thanks for the advice you aren't a snob I'm not that worried about the quality of the sound system. :) I think it will still be very nice.
I went to the stereo install place that I know of and I got a pair of 4" Pics attached. The guy who would have installed it let me know he was just going to use a piece of plywood, wink, where the salesman was talking about "making a plate" , Once he told me that I realized how to fix it and bought the speakers being recommended. IDK how to judge but you gotta trust people sometimes. He told me he gave me a $50 cut in price. I paid $80 for the two of them. So here are pics of the solution I came up with. I have not stuck it in yet because I am waiting for paint to dry so I can go get some spade fittings that fit. The ones I bought at the hardware look right but are too tight. Once I get that in and a wire dangling I am going to s solder the rest of the connections if I can and for the Chrysler door speakers I am going to have to see if Crutchfield will send me a set of connectors so I could use the OE connector.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20482&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20483&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20484&stc=1
It's good enough for me. I used half inch plywood when I broke the 1/4 inch twice. I'm sure you could use 1/4 if you had a better jigsaw than I. The hole in the middle was to be 4" maybe just a bit bigger, I might be a bit a lot bigger. A hole saw would be best if you had one. Finding screws short enough to mount it to the wood is a problem too. If I couldn't get them I was going to grind off the extra from the stock screws it came with. The two holes for the mount I drilled straight through the old speaker 1/4 inch hole. I'm hoping I do not have to try to mount it on top of the board. I may put a bit of landscape fabric over it to protect it from sun.
The speakers have nice big magnets on them - a good start. Best way to know if you're looking at good or junk speakers - decent sized magnets, the chassis of the speaker feels solid, decent speaker terminals that aren't just tabs held on with tiny rivets, the speaker cone is either paper fibre that has been doped in some kind of resin or a poly type plastic that doesn't feel like the lid off a sandwich spread container, and a firm urethane suspension ring holding it together. Good reviews for the price tag on the EMV 100.5 speakers, I think you got a good deal! These need to be properly mounted to make them shine - the gaps around your speaker mounts will affect how efficiently they work.
Buy a sheet of MDF for your speaker board. It's a lot more forgiving to cut up and sand than plywood. While you're there grab a can of spray on adhesive and find a scrap of felt from somewhere (big enough to cover both speaker mounts) Spray the board and the back of the felt with the adhesive and when it's tacked off, press the 2 together and smooth it out. Pro finish for chump change :thumbup:
Maybe the place you got the speakers from have a spare pair of 4" speaker grilles they're willing to part with. Some places might charge you a few bucks for something left over from an install. They will protect your speakers from impact damage and make it look complete.
I used to think that also...... until u listen to some of those oem sound systems;Quote:
The speakers have nice big magnets on them - a good start. Best way to know if you're looking at good or junk speakers - decent sized magnets, the chassis of the speaker feels solid, decent speaker terminals that aren't just tabs held on with tiny rivets, the speaker cone is either paper fibre that has been doped in some kind of resin or a poly type plastic that doesn't feel like the lid off a sandwich spread container, and a firm urethane suspension ring holding it together
Crappy flimsy lookin paper cone/usually plastic frame, with teeeeennny magnets, that sound amazing @ only ~10 watts!
Extemely lightweight and efficient(very import for deck only), plus cheap = perfect for the mobile application
my later installs mimic oem. VERY satisfying sound from a $150 total investment
$50 mechless players = smaller & way lighter than a CD. Tiny SD card holds allloooottt of music
Proper mounting makes a HUGE diference - night & day!Quote:
Good reviews for the price tag on the EMV 100.5 speakers! These need to be properly mounted to make them shine - the gaps around your speaker mounts will affect how efficiently they work
Puny dash speaker r doomed with no crossover to scrub off the bass.
I dremel-surgery out the tweeter midrange pod from 3-way speakers, and use those in the dash with fabric over em....
Just for imageing/soundstage. Wired in paralell to door speakers. I'll figure something out for truck rear column speakers
Doped paper cones are actually better sound quality wise. They produce a 'warmer', more natural sound - I had a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch 5.25's as part of the front splits in my very first decent car audio installs and they sounded brilliant and were absolute beasts when pushed hard. Plastic cones are good at pushing a lot of air as they're quite rigid but they can sound 'bright' or a bit sharp. There is nothing wrong with injection molded plastic chassis, they are less likely to 'buzz' or make noise if they're not dampened somehow from their surface mounted location (they can also cheat a little as they become reinforced by whatever they're screwed to). Car audio is a bit scammy sometimes too when you actually take a look at what companies are owned by whom and what they're selling. Once you've sat in a car/truck with a good audio set up you get a new appreciation for what a stereo install can really sound like. And it doesn't have to be big bucks either (the SRS module I'll use in the truck is absolutely cheap and laughable, but I used it in my Lancer fastback with 4 6" single cone speakers and it was like sitting in an ampitheatre - it was amazing, even if the control knobs were sketchy and would sometimes crackle or pull out of tune)
oops:))
The speakers are poly cones, the body is metal and the magnet is covered with plastic. I have felt I'll think about getting MDF but I'm not that invested in the idea unless this thing just sound horrible. I will cover this mount as suggested. That should give some UV protection.
The plywood was too bulky. The absolute limit on width is the width of the OE speaker. I chose to cut up the OE speaker frame and screw the new one to it. If you have a nice cutting wheel for your grinder that would be best to do the job. Make the cut out flush on the back side. I marked the holes and used a drill to make pilot holes before screwing the screws through those hole, then I mounted the speaker to it. I had to cover the cone and grind off the top of the screws (sheet metal self tapping 1/4 long) then paint. I used a paint brush and sprayed a puddle to dip it in to get at the fidly bits. The felt did not want to cut after I glued it on so it looks like heck. The thing is mounted. :)) I discovered on my trip to the JY that the gen 1 Dakotas are getting rare around here no joy finding OE speaker harness connectors but those spades that did not work on the new speaker will work on the OE dak speakers I am going to put in the door. I got a plastic sleeve that holds the short locking sleeve that comes with the head unit and some speaker backing for the door for free. The sleeve is too fat around the edges. I'm going to look for another one. Here's the new pics. EDIT- the speaker backing is really a kind of mount with molded in cover to protect the speaker from rain. I'll take a picture when I get to mounting them.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20488&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20489&stc=1
I got the harness soldered up and installed the speakers. I have the power and memory soldered to the Radio fuse but I think this will not provide full time 12v power. Anyone know which fuse is 12v full time with the key off? I plugged the head unit to the harness and it is working. All speakers good no static. I have the dash cover out and am painting it. I haven't mounted the head unit yet. I may have problems with the head unit hitting the new dash speaker.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20498&stc=1 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20499&stc=1
Run a wire from the back of the fuse block for permanent power (yellow wire for the new stereo harness - add an inline fuse to protect it in case you get a short by it accidentally grounding out) Disconnect the battery, take out the 2 anchor screws holding the main fuse block in and go through from the back. Tape the permanent power wire up to the wiring harness with electrical tape to keep it neat. Don't run it from the battery, it's totally unnecessary and can set you up for another electrical problem (and it'll save from trying to go through the firewall...) The dash chassis isn't laid out well enough for a modern standard single DIN head unit with speakers, there's not nearly enough space (which is why they used a shallow oval speaker - these trucks were meant to be really basic)
I have The power wire soldered to the back of the fuse block on the Radio fuse which in bottom left on mine. The unit came with an inline fuse for the memory wire which I fused with the power wire as I want it to work without the key. The fuse I connected it to cuts power when the key is off so it won't remember any stations. That speaker in the dash sounds dam good.
Do you have any idea exactly what wire I cold get constant power from?
There's a primary power wire from the battery in the fuse block - the fat red one that goes to #8 'tail light/clearance' fuse. This should always be live. To make sure, stick a test light on it and ground the other end to a bolt or bare metal under the dash. Should be the one.
Thanks I'll get to it tomorrow and let you guys know. Still no clear method for installing the head unit. I have the dash bezel back in without the screws and the unit wedged at a downward angle. I might have to ask a shop about it.
I felt better after my food digested and I folded the laundry so I had a crack at it. I have a multi meter and it showed me that the red one was dead but the 3 on top from the left and the fat black on were all hot. So I soldered it to the top left one. Radio works with no key now.
Attachment 20500
...what about permanent power memory?
Hmm, I would've thought the tail light circuit would always be hot (brake lights work regardless of keys in or out, I goofed on that one!)Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Ram50
Had a look at retro-styled mechless head units on ebay - they are mad cheap :shock:Are they any good? - don't know. They are a little misleading by saying they're 'digital' when they're only FM stereo but they do accept SD cards, USB and have an aux in jack on the front and come with a remote (not super useful IMO but they have them...)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stero-F...4AAOSwLdBaBnD1
And now something that is just plain weird - no AM, no speaker outputs, no RCA's - nada. And stupid cheap...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-....c100005.m1851
And now something that is just plain weird - no AM, no speaker outputs, no RCA's (it says it does in the description, but I ain't seeing them on the back image) - nada. And stupid cheap...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-....c100005.m1851
Well I turned it off and back on and the station I saved was still there as were the settings. I connected the memory wire and power wire then used the old wire I had for power on the last unit. So if there is power there is memory. There will be a picture of the fuse block cover at the end of this post. Bottom right would be the top left I soldered to. I honestly do not comprehend what some of those terms mean.
Thanks for looking up those units. I had a solution for hanging the deck in my dream last night but that is all I can remember :) This one has a CD player. I don't care about the USB or the jack to plug I guess an MP3 in. Aren't those things out of fashion now? I still play cd's and cassette tapes or just listen to the radio. I might go out for a drive and test the Metallica on it. I have high expectations.
I was looking for door cards and found the solution you and a couple other guys came up with. I'm glad I did not throw out the old ones! Will any fastener store know what I mean by Scrivets?
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...id=20501&stc=1
Argh! EDIT- There has been a glitch.:shock: :thumbdown: The CD player is not working properly. It started on teh first track of Metallica then cut out after a minute. I ejected and reinserted. Same thing. I tried another CD same thing. I figured it might be vibration. Then when parked I tried a third CD and it did the same thing. Added bonus it won;t even play any of the other tracks on any CD I have put in it will only start at the first track and quit after a minute!
There is a card that was screwed to the thing when I installed it which said do not return to store call us. Since it is Sunday here I went to their website. I sent an email. Its www.dualav.com the unit I have is a XDM260 which isn't even on their site. I hope they choose to be helpful. :shrug: Edit2- Doing research I see some of these came with a remote. Mine did not. Though it did have the wire for one.
i'd stay clear of those reeaaaalllyyy wierd no-name..... n Pyle brand also!
Had good luck with Amazon. Reviews r useful & ok feedback
the mechless r only a litttle over half the depth of a CD player
hot sellin $35 Boss 612 was my first years ago. Volumn knob quit responding after ~1 year
Next, was old version $37 Bravo view, simple clean solid
Both soundstreams still performing fine, $40 & $60. Generally very pleased so far with mechless
Did you ground the chassis of the head unit to the dash frame? I have seen a few head units fail from not being grounded adequately (Pioneer head units would do this if they weren't given a solid ground to the car) Your head unit might be obsolete or it's simply a unit they don't stock. Those are meant to come with an infra-red remote control as well. Did this head unit look like something wasn't new when you pulled it out of the box? I smell something funky going on (like an ex-display unit being reboxed - not saying that it is...) This is it right? -
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Dual...4383.l4275.c10
I grounded it same place I did the last one right up front of the dash top right screw of the airbox levers. I noticed that I could hear the disc spinning like it was squeaking very quietly. I put a cleaner disc in (with brushes) but could not hear it spin and the display switched from disc reading to MP3 reading??
I saw that remote on ebay when I was researching. Mine came as is. I saw a vid on YT where the guy was unboxing the same unit no remote. They have a bunch of these on ebay for sale sans the faceplate but asking way too much. The guy asking $16 wants $15 to ship it!
EDIT- I have not got a reply to my email so I called the 800 number. I had to leave a message there was no answer other than the computerized system. According to the message that answers Dual is associated with Jensen.
Solution! XDM260 gone.
No response from the Dual folks to email or phone message. Had a crap morning dealing with an Autozone schmuck. Yea he really ticked me off. Wasted the day til 1pm driving around to find the part at other stores. Got it at Ebay. So I'm sitting here and figure what's to lose? I'll call Walmart and tell them what is going on. Long story short they told me they would exchange it for a working unit. At the time they had confirmed they had the same unit on the shelf for $49.97 or they would give me store credit. I asked to just exchange the head unit so I didn't have to change the wires they agreed. ! Turns out they had the XDM280BT on the shelf for the same price. They opened it and the harness plugged into my head unit so they did the exchange.Tested it when I got home radio and CD work!!
Now I have a BT unit (Won't use it any more than I would have MP3) and I am at the same stage of working out how to build a box for it to sit tight in the dash that I was in when I discovered the CD did not work !!!!!! Yea Walmart!
I have some galvanized sheet metal I'll probably use that. Take out the air ducts, get up in there and screw something to the metal bits to keep the top o the unit from hitting the speaker and be able to anchor the basket that holds it to something.
Too funny! Now that I have it replaced the Dual folks finally responded to the email. It tells me to reset it.
Better late than never (if you're not paying someone to install it, and go back to have it taken out, buy another one and install it, etc, etc...:shakehead:)Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Ram50
Geez the Walmart folks let me exchange the bad unit for a good one before that guy finally responded.
Here is my solution to my problem with the speaker and the cut out on my dash. Looks like I need to take it apart sometime down the road and pull that left side out further so it sets closer to the face of the dash panel.
What I came up with was to build a box with galv Sheet metal. Then line the top of it with non-conductive rubber. I bought what is called Switchboard mat. Cost $11.50 per foot off the 3ft long roll. I used 7" piece of my 1'x3'. I riveted the box together (had to crush the rivet near the front with vise grips so the plastic frame would fit.) spray glued the mat to it. I found out my tabs would not work so I folded a strip of sheet metal. I suppose it's called hem even if that is all I was using of the metal. Then I riveted a piece down in the lower right corner and drilled a 1/8 hole so the top right screw of the heater controls would hold it. I can't find the picture of that. Then I riveted a piece on the left to the dash metal that is still there and when I got the box set riveted it. (I probably need to redo that eventually. It left a big gap) Then I slipped the plastic frame for the basket that locks the unit in. Put in the basket pulled te wires out and plugged it in. After messing with it a bit I pushed it home. Attachment 20530 Attachment 20531 Attachment 20532 Attachment 20534 Attachment 20533
Any 4” speakers will drop in. I just installed some kickers last week and used the plug and play adapters no cutting st all.
You may need a support bracket for the rear of the head unit so stop it from bouncing around. It will drive you crazy if the disc player skips every time you hit a bump. Take out the glove box and reach around there to get a nut onto the anchor stud, it'll be worth it (makes it a-hole resistant too) I did a stealth head unit install in a glove box once - I had to set up all the mounts and brackets along with a custom surround plate with the head unit installed into it, then reinstall the whole glove box in one hit. The wiring was fun lol
Thank you will probably do that when I decide to redo the rivets to let the face sit closer to the front of the dash panel.
Reviving to update. I had wired the new unit with both the power and memory combined. It was draining my battery over night. I had to remove the neg cable when I parked all summer while I used it. The truck has been parked all winter. Today I removed the dash cover and took out the radio unit. Turns out I could cut the power wire right there, soldered it to a new extension, tape it and soldered it to the back of the radio fuse on the fuse block. I left the memory wire connected to constant power. w/o reinstalling it I plugged it in without putting it back into the dash and it works comes on with the key goes off with the key. I've left the battery connected to see tomorrow if it has died. I have not put it back in yet i figure I might as well reset that mount I made so it seems like its more professional. OH yea it started pretty easily compared to how hard it has been when I let it sit in the past. I only had to pour gas into the carb once.
Well got it mounted again. Its not great but will do until I decide to do something else. :thumbup:
Battery keeping charge now? At least you have choons :thumbup:
Yes battery held its charge. I'm gonna have to work out a better mount or spring for a pro eventually.
Edit- Careful how you route the wires. The power wire I just added wasn't up as tight as I thought and it got grabbed by the hand brake ang cut power to the radio. :(
On a related note - any tips/tricks on how to get the left side speaker removed?
I just popped out the instrument cluster thinking that would give me access but ... nope.
(mine is 2nd gen BTW)
***** UPDATE: Never mind, I figured it out! (speaker grilles pop off from the top)