Bent or Broken Valve

Well, come to find out the knock was probably originally caused by the Lash adjuster "Pumping Up" and causing it to make the valve have negative clearance and collide with the piston, im not sure if it is bent or if it is broken, the valve I believe is bad is the intake on piston no 1, if I turn the engine over with a 1/2in rachet, it is very hard to turn when it hits TDC between exhaust and intake, if i take a screwdriver and try to push the valve down when it is stuck on TDC, it will not budge, but the rest will. So will I be able to replace just the valve or will I have to redo the valve seats to? I added a video so you can hear the noise. :( Also check out my other videos when this one ends.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urZygHrspEQ


Here is what it used to sound like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vr5yMQejXM4&feature=player_embedded

When my timing chain jumped on me, I bent all 4 of my intake valves. I just went to the junkyard, got a different 2.6 head, had it tested, and slapped it on. I also had marks on the tops of my pistons from them hitting the valves. Would I just slap a head on again if I could go back... no sir. You're gonna have to dig into this and see how far the damage goes. I'm sure I'm not the only one that hates tearing things apart more than I have to.

OH, How wrong was I. I pulled the head and all of the valves looked great, but I noticed piston 4 was in a weird spot so I grabbed the half inh rachet and attach it to the crank bolt and all the pistons but no 4 move, but when I crank it far enough it starts to go up. IDK what the problem is, but I am soon to find out. hopefully the person who had it before me forgot to crank the bolts on the rod cap down and it came off.

Yep, one rod cap nut came off and the other one bent and the nut came off. Hopefully there is no damage done to the connecting rod and I will be up and running again in a few days

All I can say...Holey crap...

Checked it all out, there seems to be no damage to the rod ,and the cap seems fine, but the rest are toast, the bearing is shot, the bolts are bent and one of the nuts are stripped. This is one of the many problems that I have found out with this truck, I know someone worked on it because the oil pan was leaking from missing bolts, and someone trying to use the old gasket, someone put Power Steering in the master cylinder, which ate up both cylinders. The AC was Jerry rigged, but I found a manual that showed me how to put it all back together (On that issue, the relay had gone bad, so i just used a Bosch relay we had laying around). And the biggest thing I found out is the numbers on the ID tag say it was originally a 5 speed auto, but someone, somehow put a manual in it. but here are some pics

Attachment 1295Attachment 1296Attachment 1297Attachment 1298Attachment 1299Attachment 1300Attachment 1301Attachment 1302

After tearing it down that far? Short block off to the machine shop for a bore, hone, line bore (crank and balance), new rods, high compression pistons, pressure test, and crank balance.

But that's just me.


;)


Some pretty impressive damage for not actually damaging much! Looks like all Hell. lol

I can see the spread on the cap in the picture. Its bad. The barring you are holding looks like it went for a run in a top fuel car.
Thats how they tune the car. By pulling the lower main bearings and upper rod barrings. Then they measure the spread of the barring.

Yeah, I spoke too soon, there is alot of damage to the rod where the crank hit it. Do you think it did any damage to the crank to where it is no longer usable? It doesn't look bent when I turn it over with the ratchet. This sucks, well, I need a everything for that cylinder short of a piston.
Attachment 1305

1 Connecting Rod $43.67
1 Set of Bearings $7.40
1 Head Gasket $17.35
The awesome sound it made when the crank hit the rod lol, just kidding,
Learning how to work on and repair my pickup with the help of www.mightyram50.net PRICELESS

You know, I probably would, but I dont have enough money for that, if I did I would probably get a 4g63 head on it along with a bore, hone, line bore (crank and balance), new rods, high compression pistons, pressure test, and crank balance. But my dad may help me with this one. He said I had a "First Car Fund" Kind of like a College Fund I guess, but he lives in Michigan and told me I couldn't have any unless I lived there because my mom might use my car more than me, but she is scared of my max, because she is used to the luxury of a 2001 Subaru Outback Limited.

Hell thats not bent yet. This is bent.
Have no idea what it came out of but it must have made one hell of a noise.
Note the guy walking behind it.

Attachment 1306

DAMN, Now that's a bent rod for ya. Do you suppose I can put mine in a vise and fix it. JK the bearing is now part of the rod.

Hmm, a 1.5l Inline 3 Mighty Max? lol

We have finished a race with 1 less rod and piston. We just pulled the saw out cut the rod hammered the piston up, and backed off the adjusters. She shook a little more but finished the last 100 miles of the race. It was like sitting on one of the for massager's at the fair for 3 hours. You could not feel anything but your head, arms and hands. It was hard to walk after words. My ass felt like jello for 2 hours. I was scared fart......

Ha ha, Ive had that feeling before. Go you know what the spec is supposed to be on the crank, Im getting a new rod and I need to know what os crank bearings i will need.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by abeemanator

Ha ha, Ive had that feeling before. Go you know what the spec is supposed to be on the crank, Im getting a new rod and I need to know what os crank bearings i will need.

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Try looking in the manual and source info section.

I actually found it on page 3-34 in my Chilton book. I got my engine out today, but I am having a difficult time getting it to sit on the engine stand without it laying against the pressure plate. I pulled it out because I figured it would be a lot easier to put the new rod in, measuring the crank journal, and cleaning and fixing little odds and ends. I do want to clean the engine bay also, I need to wrap up wires in a harness so they are not laying around, pressure wash the whole thing so when I install the engine I wont have dirt and oil falling in my face, and tidying up any lines, hoses. etc.

Use longer bolts on the stand and use large nuts as a spacer between the stand and block ;)
Have you checked into the price of a complete engine through a wrecking yard VS the cost of repairs and parts you are going to pay for?

Well, I found a 90' Plymouth Laser with a 4G63, for $500. I was thinking of using the block of the car and using my head from my g63b on there, and sell the tranny and 4g63 head, intake .etc, or keep the head and stuff for a future project, and also sell parts off of the car, wheels, tires, gauges .etc. And then sell it to the scrap yard, or to someone who wrecked their laser or eclipse. IDK, its just a thought I had, the crank is done for, it has really big gouges in the rod journal and my stepdad said the crank was bent, and It was the only thing I could find remotely close to a g63b

If the Laser runs, drive it until you have the parts to do the 4g63 swap and put the whole motor in. Its what you really want, and you don't want to swap the g63b head with broken parts and downgrade the 4g63; you will never get it to run.

Yep, that's what I think I would do. The guy says it needs a master clutch bearing, is that a throw out bearing or the bearing in the center of the flywheel. The only issue I see with putting it in the truck is the exhaust manifold, If i were to mount the engine in my truck would the manifold output go towards the rear or the front?

Here is the listing for it http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/2614148640.html

the manifold output on the cars is straight down, since the motors are turned sideways and the exhaust goes under the engine to the back of the car.

Oh ,yeah, I should have known that, so it really wouldn't be too hard to make your own exhaust pipe for it. What about drive shaft lengthening, would it be expensive? My grandpa put 2 trannys in his GMC motorhome, The original 3 speed auto and a 4 speed standard for hills, and he welded the shafts himself, and it begins to vibrate at or around 55 mph because of it being off balance.

if you put the 4g63 in place of the g63b in the stock location, no changes to the driveshaft is necessary, just firewall mods for the collant piping.