Wondering what headlights you all run and if you have done any modifications. I just hopped on ebay and it seems there are a ton. What do you run? Please post pictures and share your experiences..
Printable View
Wondering what headlights you all run and if you have done any modifications. I just hopped on ebay and it seems there are a ton. What do you run? Please post pictures and share your experiences..
Are you wanting lit up pics? I just swapped to H4 diamond cut housings with decent H4 bulbs and it greatly improved the lighting up front. I plan to do a HID retrofit sometime in the future, but who knows when that'll be.
Attachment 16024
Lights off please. I like those. Clean, bright and allow for greater visibility.
I'm leaning towards something like this.
http://betterautomotivelighting.com/...nversion-kits/
I'd really like some kind of projector setup in a black housing, but most of them look chintzy as hell.
This one isn't terrible.
http://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Project.../dp/B019CXSSTK
There's always the L200 Savana parts....if you can find them.
http://bestcars.uol.com.br/carros/mi...-savana-1g.jpg
Someone was selling a headlight and grille kit on eBay a few months ago.
Not sure how I feel about the L200. Part of me likes it, but it also looks a tad over the top. Haven't decided on what I think yet. I do like those lenses. I was browsing ebay of all places for some ideas and the blacked out projectors caught my eye. Lots of good reviews on your second link.
The L200 Savanna headlight setup was being sold by Noahwins on here as part of a whole front end swap.
I just ordered some from summit. They had some sick black housing projectors but they were around $300 for the pair. I went with the ones showing in the link below. I also have an H4 Bi-Zenon 8000K hid kit from another vehicle I had lying around so hopefully the headlights will get here tomorrow or Tuesday and the weather is permitting.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/GRM-09-1078
Good thing you didn't get black housings, they suck and provide no light output. And please don't put HID's into those housing without projectors, you will just be blinding everyone in oncoming traffic.
1. Those black housings are projector so they illuminate exactly the same as chrome projectorsQuote:
Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu
2. The ones I ordered are also projectors so they will suit HID's well, plus I am not worried about other people. I drive a small pickup. If I was a lifted anything I would be more considerate.
Let's keep the installed pics coming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 541d50
Most of the "projectors" you see on ebay(and the Summit ones you posted) 6x7 headlights aren't real projectors, they just kind of "look" like a projector. They don't project the light at all like a real projector and you will be blinding everyone, I know I have a little lowered pickup and did the HID thing a few years back and had them pointed all the way down...... still blinded people. But do as you wish
I agree with Droppedmitsu on this one. Check the reviews on headlights very well because what looks cool and advertised to be the new wonder headlight are usually terrible. Many of these projector wannabees are usually the lowest quality and you will be an unhappy person with them.
So far as I look for headlights, those multiple led headlights seem to have good reviews and decent lighting, but I don't think they have been 100% approved by the DOT.
A good rule for headlights are if they are expensive and brand named, they can be trusted as so. If they come from China, (cough, cough) leave them there.
Don't forget about Amazon also. They commonly have cheaper prices on many items.
I have a set of classic Hella 7x6 headlights that are similar to the Cibie Zbeams I used to have on Geronimo - will be installing them shortly
Are those blue?
slightly, they are 8000K HID's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chargerx3
Check these headlights
Attachment 16374
Lol bet they aren't yours.
Put those babies in my wish list a few times. :pray:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chargerx3
The Attachment 16394 company seems to have a good line of headlights. Pricey a bit for my taste, but they have some futuristic looking creations.
Attachment 16395
This is their claim in the headlight world. But as I always say, check all available types and review review review, before purchasing.
Their claim looks purely speculative - and are they specifying left or right hand drive lamp assemblies? You can manually adjust your headlights to generate that projection pattern but I've always dialled my headlights in for high beam depth with a parallel focus point (I never actually use high beam ever but I don't want to blow anyone's head off with an over adjusted headlight). A full set of 6x4" H4 dual headlight assemblies are on my wish list and I'm between choosing straight H4 semi sealed or something a little more fancy like LED rimmed headlights...
I have a set of 4 Cibie Z beams I used to have on my 85 Ram 50 - all 4 lights have 100W Halogen high beam bulbs - it would light road signs up at over 2 miles away on the interstate so bright you could read them like daylight. Funny how even the most ignorant driver would dip their lights when I flashed them back with my high beams...
They probably were getting melted and hit their head on the light switch with those lights Pennyman. I think I heard the astronauts even talking about how they could see them from outer-space. :lmao:
And they are going into the 86 project truck with relays so they get full voltage and ceramic sockets so they don't melt...
Here are mine. Rx330 retrofit in some pilot housings. Projectors are modified with clear lenses and bi-xenon shields. With oem phillips ballasts and 4300k bulbs, the low beam output is some of the best I've ever seen.
Attachment 16712Attachment 16713Attachment 16714
Wow, i actually like those. Did you do a walk trough for how you assembled them?
thanks! One of my friends does retrofits for a living, he did these for me. I didnt take any pictures but the hardest part is making sure the projector rotation is correct, otherwise your low beam cutoff could be on a weird angle. otherwise you just bake the housings to get the lenses off, and then cut the back of the headlight from the center, slowly opening it up until the projector fits how you want. From there you can either bolt them in or epoxy them into place.
I have standard headlights and these fog lamps . Going to cut the front bumper and set them inside of it. Ressesed.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Comet-4500-Cle...%257Ciid%253A8
output pic:
Attachment 18121
Alex wins. Again.
That light output looks better than the OEM HIDs on my Audi.
That is some serious light output.
haha thanks guys! Simple retrofit honestly, at least compared to some of the ones out there on newer fancier stuff. Wouldn't be hard to replicate this setup, if anyone wants info just let me know!
I would. care to do a build thread and link it here?
Has anyone got thoughts on using these as donor housings for a conversion?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-7X6-Diam...1YXdMB&vxp=mtr
I like them because they're glass lenses, with black housings, and they don't have a bunch of extra LED halo BS. I'd hollow them out to install some OEM HIDs I got off a Nissan Altima. It's not really a big risk at $24.
Same as most of the universal diamond cut h4 housings. Probably similar or same as the ones on my truck that I posted on page one. Most are pretty good quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff V.
Dude these are fuckin sick
I am still eyeballing a full set of H4's for my Gen 1. So far these seem to be the ones that are going to take my money - https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-4x6-Ha...item3d4edc8001
The H4's with the black reflectors look kinda cool but I'm not 100% sold on whether or not they would be as effective - https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-4x6-Ha...RZFPJ2&vxp=mtr
I'll need to modify the wiring loom to adapt the full set of low/high beams - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Headlight-H...BZ8TeM&vxp=mtr
I know that this particular kit is for one pair of headlights, so the plan is to buy 2 of these kits and add an accessory switch to run the headlights in parallel (I think driving with 4 low beams would make me popular...) I need the relay kits anyway as a PO butchered the headlight wiring loom :shakehead:
I have heard the blacked out housings greatly hamper the light output, get the regular chrome backed ones.
Not finding any reviews on the black backed housings but I thought this was probably the case. Thanks Dropped :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu
Might have even been a member or two on here that said that, but I have for sure read that they are crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
The black "reflectors" will absorb light, not reflect it. So unless the headlights are projectors that don't use the rest of the housing for lighting, they are useless.
Check for Phillips Color Clear headlights,hard to find now but look awesome.Have had them on Ram since it was almost new. They look almost black but light not reduced dramatically. Shoot me your email and I can take a couple pics. Merry Christmas to all!
If high output lighting is what you want, get real headlights - Hella or Cibie Z beams, and load them up with high wattage bulbs. I have a set of the Z beams that I had in my 1985 Ram 50 - with 4 100 W bulbs I could light road signs up brighter than daylight from 2 miles away! You must run ceramic headlight sockets or the heat will melt the plastic ones.
So this is now on my Christmas wish list - https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-4x6-Ha...5.c10#viTabs_0
plus 2 sets of these - https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-COB-Hi-...item33dd88af06
and add this - https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUto-H4-Hea...MAAOSwETJaGQrq
I want to integrate the headlight relays into a single fuse and relay block as the plan is to add a bunch of accessories (2x headlight relays, relays for thermofans and relays for fuel pumps) The stock wiring loom in the Gen 1 is rudimentary at best but my factory loom has been cut up badly. Hopefully this will beef up the electrics side of the truck along with an uprated alternator (maybe one from a Hyundai - plenty around and they run a stack of ancillaries without struggling)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Fuse-S....c100005.m1851
Christmas is coming - ordered my H4's and wiring harness upgrade (it'll be late but better than never). Got the black housing 4x6's with chrome rear reflectors and T10 parking inserts (I wasn't 100% sure if the listed item would have them but these ones definitely have them - yay!). I'll post up a pic of them installed. More than likely I'll have to swap the globes (bulbs) as the reviews on them aren't super awesome but no biggie :thumbup:
X2
Thought about getting something like this but was afraid the lighting output would be crap.
Alex s817 needs write up..
Seen youtube reviews on them - and they are stupid bright. I mean, they could microwave popcorn at 10 metres :lmao:They aren't approved so they could be a liability if you want to avoid being pulled over by the po-po's.Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdsm
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
:thumbup:
gtk Geezer... I'm really digging that hid setup alex has wish he would do a write up on them .or let us know where he got everything.
LED headlamps are now not compliant over here. Big crackdowns. Can't wait till all these ford rangers get inspected and lose their light bars.
E rated lamps only
The light bars are illegal? I can understand headlights, but flood/spot/work lights should be a different story depending on if they have been installed independently of the headlight circuits. A lot of guys who've bought those monster LED bars are going to be disappointed - the clear lenses on them oxidise pretty quickly... already seen some turn straight out yellow.Quote:
Originally Posted by tortron
They can be set up as work lights. Fog and spot need to have correct beam pattern
So I ran into a snag tonight. My new ebay H4 headlights aren't a straight swap :rolleyes: The rear extensions on the headlights won't pass through the centre of the headlight buckets, so I've started flaring the shelf out with a pair of pliers as opposed to grinding/cutting them out. First one done and it's a snug fit. Now for the retaining/trim ring. The "feet" in the corners of the headlights are a little too protrusive so I'll have to take maybe, 2mm off them to get the trim ring to seat properly. I was hopeful these headlights came with T10 wedge parking lights but no luck on that. I am considering blowing some holes in the casings and DIYing them. They were considerably cheap so I am not gonna complain about what I have to do to get them to mount up. I'm still waiting on the 4 ceramic socket harness to make it all operational. Then I have to integrate the lot into my new relay/fuse block. Man I do love wiring :neutral:
So here's my cheap ebay headlight upgrade -
Attachment 21513Attachment 21514
I should've taken pics of how much I needed to flare the headlight buckets (it was a few mm all round) and how much I needed to shave off the corner locators on the headlights themselves. I'll need another 2 socket harness to add full headlight function as a 4 socket harness would've only run the inner headlights on high beam. Once the auxiliary harness is in, I'll add independent switches to control the second harness.
Looks good geezer��. Can't wait to see. Finished output.
:biggrin: thanks maxdsm. I decided to go with that grille as it looks like it ties in with the new headlights better than the plain black grille would've. Might still make a custom grille yet. I know the blue tinted halogen bulbs are going to suck a bit when it comes to output so I am prepared to try a few different options like LED COB fittings or xenon gas charged bulbs. I have a rats nest of wiring to make sense of before I can bench test them and the new relay box is going to be a stand alone module. One 8 pin plug and I'll be able to hook up all the forward ancillary stuff in one hit (headlights, A/C and a pair of thermofans)
I need to upgrade my light output, but want to stick with halogen. Thinking about replacing the sealed beam piece-of-crap that I have on with a set of these:
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-0034272.../dp/B0002M9QRE
And then putting on some bright H4's on them, maybe these:
https://www.amazon.com/OSRAM-Night-B...g=bulbfacts-20
Which get good grades here:
https://www.bulbfacts.com/halogen-bulbs/chart/
Anyone have any first hand experience with the conversion headlamps, or the bulbs?
You can't go wrong with Hella. They've been making them since the dawn of time. You may be trying a number of different globes for them. The Osrams are brighter but at the expense of longetivity (read the reviews under the link on Amazon) Remember the globes may be affected by how good the electrical system is in your truck - not enough amps going through it and you may not be getting the best out of them. Either way, replacing the sealed beams with a H4 semi-sealed means replacing a dead headlight is easy and cheaper than trying to get a sealed beam off the shelf somewhere.
Great, thanks. I think I will go ahead and give it a try. I'll try to get some good before/after pictures when I do the switch.
Heard on the short life issue with these brighter bulbs, I'll keep the bulbs that come with the headlights (I think it's a standard Hella HB2) in the truck in case the Osrams go out while I'm out and about.
How do I check for electrical output of the truck, to make sure I'm getting enough amps?
EDIT- follow up question: can I use higher wattage bulbs in these headlights, or will pieces melt? I know that they are technically "off-road" only, but I'm curious if they can be used anyway. Would the truck's electrical system be able to handle the extra load?
Something like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flosser-900...yEH8:rk:1:pf:0
The stock alternators are barely adequate (Gen 1's have a measley 40 amps). The rating is on the alternator somewhere. The wiring harness isn't great either as power goes from the fuse block under the dash all the way out front. I've bought an auxiliary headlight harness with ceramic sockets to handle the extra heat and draw power straight off the battery. They're cheap to buy and easy to rig up. They have separate 2 relays for lo/hi and an inline fuse. Literally plug'n'play.
Ok, good point. What do you think about putting in an HID bulb in these lamps? Something like this one, which comes in H4 configuration:Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ711YK...language=en_US
Does the stock alternator have enough power for this? I'm not familiar with HID's, not sure if it requires a lot of power or not. If they do, what about LED bulbs?
Thanks
Hmm. They seem bright as all get out but not only are they pricey, you have to contend with ballasts in them. They can be temperamental but you might get lucky (maybe part of that relates to how they're installed - don't know) and they're offering a lifetime warranty (again that may depend on who installs them). The kit is showing 35 watts so that is below what most premium halogens pull - a safe bet your alternator can handle that no problem. I'm looking @ LED COB inserts as well but that's a mixed bag (poor lifespan, light pattern is a bit funky, not great for output...)
I think I'm going to get in the Hella conversion lamps, with the standard bulb, and see how much of an improvement that is over the sealed beam. If that's not good enough I'll do some more research into these. Curious to hear about your experience with the LED's once you get those on.
On a somewhat related question, do you know if there's a way to set it up so that the lights go off when you turn off the truck and remove they key? I keep leaving the lights on, on my previous vehicle they just turned off when the keys were removed and I got used to it.
I'm wondering if something can be done with the fuses or some simple wiring adjustment...
Thanks
Attachment 21645
Get a pair of these babies.
Attachment 21646
I run the only 4 headlight Mitsubishi Mighty Max around, lol with a BMW grill. :thumbup:
If you are going for an upgrade, get a separate headlight harness and instead of running it live off the battery and headlight switch, run it off the ignition circuit. Will only take rerouting a wire to the relays from the active ignition circuit (hmm not a bad idea, might have to do that myself...)Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
And Brad, those headlights are sealed beam and look like maybe a B size - much too small. I'm more of a H4 double kind of guy :thumbup:
Probably don't have enough amps for those...Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
Sounds like it's doable, great. If you do do it yourself, would you mind sharing pics of the procedure?Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
An alternative to adding an auto-shut off device is to wire the door buzzer to sound when the headlights are on and the door is opened. It’s a simple change and virtually free. Solved my forgetfulness, but admittedly, I haved locked the keys in the truck a couple times since the change. But that’s easier to deal with than a dead battery at a trailhead or other remote location.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
I'd have to create a wiring diagram and it'll only be based on the Gen 1. I'm building an ancillary relay/fuse block and taking a pic of the inside of that won't help anybody due to how much I've packed into it so far (it runs 2 relays for lo/hi beam + a shared fuse, 2 relays for the A/C which has the compressor and thermofan + another shared fuse, the main engine cooling thermofan + a fuse and the main relays fuse is being relocated into it) The main power wire to the relay/fuse block is using a bridged fuse connector, so the lot comes from a single power source which I can either run off the battery or from the live ign/alternator circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
I have an add on harness that plugs into one of the headlight sockets and has separate relays for the low and high circuits that connect directly to the battery. Geronimo has been running that for over 20 years now...
Hmmmmm, yeah that sounds like way above my level of understanding/skills ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I won't attempt it, but would love to hear if it worked out for you. Thanks
This sounds interesting, and maybe (?) something I could attempt, with my very limited electrical skills... Any chance you could include a an explanation of how this is done?Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
On a related note, and I guess something I should fix even before attempting this, the buzzer that goes off while the door is open and the ignition is on is not working. Could this be a defective fuse? Or maybe something the previous owner disconnected? Where can I look to see if there's a faulty or missing connection?
Same thing with the buzzer that' supposed to go off until the seat belt is clicked on.
Actually, with the aftermarket headlight harness it's dead easy. It's designed to literally plug'n'play into the existing headlight socket and bridge the power from the battery (this part you have to do yourself but it's 1 wire...) Plug it in, route the new harness and and secure it. It uses the voltage coming from the headlights as the relay triggers like a second switch. Instead of the battery, find a solid location to connect from the live IGN circuit in the engine bay and there's your idiot proof headlights :thumbup: Mine is a lot crazier due to me not only adding other circuits, but having to fix the existing butcher work. The Gen 1 harness is bordering on neanderthal tech and well, it's freaking old so everything is tired.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
This is the 2 socket harness I've used (I've ordered another one to run my inner headlights and yes it's says 4 socket but the vendor got it wrong) Otherwise a pretty good quality harness... Easy to set up out of the box and cheap as!
MrPaco,
On my ’88 the buzzer is located just above the hood release handle.
Attachment 21665 Two wires, a yellow w/white stripe which is from the door switches, and a green w/orange stripe from the ignition switch, connect to the buzzer. Hopefully your buzzer is there and only disconnected. If there and connected, check fuses #1 and #7 and the buzzer itself. The buzzer serves as both a key and fasten seat belt reminder.
To wire the buzzer as a headlight reminder, you’ll need female blade connectors, some 14 gauge wire, a quick splice connector and a crimping tool. A volt meter or voltage tester is recommended. Disconnect the green/orange wire and prevent it from grounding. Attach only the yellow w/white stripe wire to its original buzzer terminal. Use the original connector or crimp on a new female blade connector. Attach an 8-12” length of new wire to the other buzzer terminal.
Find the harness connector with a green w/white strip wire that powers the dash lights. On my truck which has four stock speakers, this connector is white with yellow side rails and 10 wires in two rows of five.
Attachment 21666 On trucks with two speakers, this connector has six wires, one row of four and the other with two at opposite ends of the row. I don’t know its color. Hopefully it’s white and yellow, too.
On either connector the green/white wire is in a corner location. Confirm it’s the dash light’s wire by back probing the connector using the volt meter or volt tester and with the headlight switch in the on and off positions. If correct, touch the end of the wire you connected to the buzzer to the volt meter/tester lead with the lights on and off. If it buzzes when on, splice the new wire to the green/white wire to make the change permanent.
Attachment 21667
The pics show my test-of-concept using a wire with alligator clip ends and a male pin connector to back probe and connect the 10-wire connector’s green/white wire. I just never got around to making it more permanent. You can also connect the new wire to the load side of fuses #1 or #12, but the connector I used is more accessible.
Hopefully the above matches your ’87. Also, with this change the buzzer will no longer sound as an unbuckled seat belt warning. However, the fasten seat belt indicator light in the dash cluster will illuminate for 5-10 second like before.
I hope this is clear.
Wow, thank you, this is amazing.
I will get down there tomorrow and poke around and compare to your photos.
Your explanation is very detailed and clear, I think I should be able to follow, but if I have any questions I'll probably ask for some more help :)
Thank you for guidance and patience with these questions, that I'm sure seem pretty basic to you and the more experienced members here. Everyone's willingness to help has been very encouraging.
I found the buzzer, and you were right, it was disconnected. I connected it, and found out the reason it had been disconnected... it makes a horrible sound (when it's supposed to: door open or seatbelt unbuckled). It's not the normal annoying sound that it's supposed to make to remind you to do something, it's a painful sound that makes you want to put the thing out of its misery, which is I guess what the previous owner did by disconnecting it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
I want to attempt your mod and wire it to sound off when the lights are left on, and I have 4 speakers so I think I'll be able to follow your instructions, but before I do that I think I need a new buzzer. Is this a common and easily sourced part? Is it specific to these trucks or any buzzer of this type would work? Does it have an official name, or is it just "buzzer"?
LOL. I agree. Disconnecting the buzzer is the first thing I did after I got my truck years ago. I looked online for two-prong 12v warning buzzers and didn’t find much. Even tried the P/N printed on my buzzer and got no matches. I suspect any two-prong buzzer will work, but will it sound any better? As a head light warning, I don’t mind it’s obnoxiouness much because the need to have the door open and lights on is rare.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
Agreed, It's doing what is designed to do. It's actually working fine now, just the sound is dumb, but I guess that's the point.Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
I was looking under there and noticed two things:
My truck does not have that black box that is in your photo, right above the buzzer, what is that? Here's what mine looks like:
Attachment 21675
And also, I found this black wire that seems to have been cut. It's coming out of that little blue plastic plug or connector or whatever that is, right behind the fuse box. You can see the cut tip of the black wire in the front of the picture, and the little blue plug where it comes out of, in the back.
As far as I an tell all electrical things are working, so not sure what this might be. Any ideas?
Attachment 21676
Ignore the black box. It's an aftermarket relay I added for driving lights. I'd be very surprise if you had one in that location.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPaco
The blue plastic thing is a splicing connector, the type to use to connect the green/white wire to the wire to the buzzer. Looks like a PO started and gave up or removed a modification they made by splicing into a wire from the fuse box. What color is the wire that passes through the splice connector? If it's black with a white stripe, that's hot with the key in the ON position. Tape the end of the black wire and secure it so it doesn't inadvertently ground out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FMS88
Finally got around to doing this very easy mod. FMS88 instructions are very clear and accurate, the hardest part was the contorsioning needed to get into position under the dash to do this work.
Highly recommend to anyone who routinely forgets to turn off the lights...
I have been thinking of doing something similar myself since i always forget my lights are on all the time. me being OCD about my truck has me thinking i will cut the connector off a broken headlight switch i have and the truck connector from my new parts truck so i don't have to splice the trucks wiring harness. i may even add some relays into the mix for my headlights so the current doesn't go through the switch.
OK, so this isn't 'exactly' about my truck but as I was planning on using H4 LED inserts in my Gen 1 I road tested Isincer H4 LED lights in my 2000 Lantra wagon. Low beam slayed - good penetrating white light that made the original H4 halogens feel like driving with Dolphin torches. Road signs and reflective white lines leapt out from a long distance. The high beam wasn't great though but with the lows as good as they were, they are acceptable as a trade off and they're relatively cheap. Been driving with them for about a year and had one fail. It looks like the body of the light got really hot and the SMD type LED's delaminated from the board. The LED inserts go into a spacer disc that fits like the mount for a standard H4 halogen. It probably isn't ideal but I am going to drill some holes into the spacer/mount to allow some air to flow around the body of the LED insert and hopefully reduce the heat being retained by the body of the thing (they do have a heat sink on the back of them with a small cooling fan but for obvious reasons they aren't very big or efficient)
With respects Honored Posters ,
L.E.D. technological evolution.
check here
and
check here x2