Family owned 86 2.0 auto Ram 50 with a small story lol

Hello all :))

I have a 86 ram 50 2.0 3spd auto, been in the family ever since 86. Started as my aunts where most miles have been put on, then passed to my father in 95 where he used it for 2 years and then had a son in 97, it sat and was lucky to run 2 times a year for almost 17 years, now its mine. 2014 after seeing it for 18 years, growing up with it, it was not in the best condition, white paint orange with rust, and oil burning because #3 valve seals, and a transmission that wouldn't shift right. and headlights that worked 1/2 the time. 1 year has gone by 98% of the problems resolved. My friends told me I should have scrapped it, but I said no, I want that truck. Getting from the before to after was a hell of a journey, 3 transmission places 2 that F-ed it up, and 1 that got it to shift like should, 3 cracked bolts, 1 head that needed replacement, 4months it took for paint, and many other things. At the end of this month I hope to turn the key and hear how he runs for the first time in over a year, or like how he was 106k miles ago... that is if that rebuilt Mikuni carb works like it should :P lol... Here is what he looked like then to what he looks like now.
Attachment 14905Attachment 14904 Yes it is the same truck lol

Let me know what you all think, I'm going to be working on interior next, I plasti dipped my rims also, just don't have a picture yet of them. Only thing I think I'll need to worry about is smog lol. Any recommendations on what to do next? I don't want a weber, it had one for a mt, and ran worse it seemed, maybe it was a fake, or because the trans kick down lever I modified didn't work great cuz it didn't come with conversion for the auto. Plan to keep him stock performance wise, though maybe someday do a engine upgrade and call him my redline srt4 ram 50 lol.:))
Wish I had more pics, but a lot got deleted in windows 10 upgrade and a failed backup :(

Welcome to MR50 Fenstermaker. Said it plenty of times - these trucks die due to lack of servicing. Heads on the early 4G63's were prone to cracking but that isn't a deal breaker. And we are all glad you didn't listen to your 'friends' and scrap it (what kind of friends would even suggest that!!?!). Soon enough you'll be looking through posts and build threads and getting ideas. There are a ton of options for upgrades and mods on the 4G63 and who knows, you might decide to do something different all together. :thumbup:

Welcome to the forum. :)
The '86 is my favorite year of these trucks. Actually the trucks are the same for 8 years accept for some very minor changes, but I own an '86 so, need I say more. :P
You have a the last year of the 1 generation trucks. You also have a great gas mileage truck when running correctly. There are many mods and choices to make if you want to personalize or increase the horsepower.
Living in California the smog laws are strict, so I don't know at this moment if your exempt from them, but if you can remove some smog stuff it might help it run a little better. The Mikuni carbs really run terrible if they are old, so most owners replace with a Weber. The Weber is by far the best mod these trucks can get with, as long as it is a true Weber. Having an AT instead of a MT isn't the greatest thing to have, but if its all you got, live with it. As for parts, be very self conscience of prices because the parts are out there and available for very reasonable prices. Try to stay away from items Made in China.
Anyway, any question you have about these trucks can be answered here in the forum. With all the experienced members floating around here, your probably looking at about a couple thousand years of total experience combined, lol.

Enjoy!

Not sure your images posted correctly, I am not seeing them.

Glad to hear you are taking on the family truck project. I tried to click your attached pictures but nothing came up. Might retry posting them.

He needs to have at least 5 posts to post pics I think, or they are in the wrong format. Try saving them in the Gallery section of the forum.

That would explain it.

Thanks for all the welcomes, yeah I've snooped around this form quite a bit for trouble shooting advice, pretty good. Let me see if I can get the pictures posted again, if not I will try the gallery or do 5 posts. Attachment 14908Attachment 14907Attachment 14906

that might have worked, shows up on my screen

Since I am here I got a question, I just hooked everything up, have spark and gas is getting into cylinders, but go to turn the key and it just wont fire not even with starting fluid :(. I am going to hit it with the timing light tomorrow and see what its at just incase. Could it be that the distributor is set incorrectly? that's the only thing I haven't tried adjusting, when its set on the timing mark, it looks to be a tad far from #1, not sure on how close to how far it should be, guessing closer than it is. That's the only thing I can think that's wrong :shrug:.

Gotta ask 2 questions - isn't your D-50 an 86 not a 96? And is it running the 4G63/G63B engine not the 4G64? The info on your user tag looks like it doesn't match. Not taking a shot at you or anything but having the right data is half the battle. There are 2 things you need to check if you're running into problems in regards to spark - the ICM (ignition control module) and your base timing. If the ICM is fried you can't check your ignition timing, so they are reliant on each other. ICM's tapping out and quitting is a common issue (it's been doing it's funky thing for a couple of decades, nothing to do with a design bug or inherent fault...) Check it and I would recommend replacing the ignition coil while you're at it. They get weak from years of heat exposure, vibration and general use.

...and to save anyone else from commenting - :slap:. Yes, I don't check thread titles - I hit the new posts tag and respond/add input (even if it is sometimes unwarranted due to lack of OBSERVATION ON MY PART) If it hasn't been pulled apart and messed with and assuming the timing belt has all the marks set correctly, then a good ICM should be the only thing between you and the engine firing up off the key. Even if the distributor setting is out of whack it should still show signs of life.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

...and to save anyone else from commenting - :slap:. Yes, I don't check thread titles - I hit the new posts tag and respond/add input (even if it is sometimes unwarranted due to lack of OBSERVATION ON MY PART) If it hasn't been pulled apart and messed with and assuming the timing belt has all the marks set correctly, then a good ICM should be the only thing between you and the engine firing up off the key. Even if the distributor setting is out of whack it should still show signs of life.

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thank you for telling me this on my profile lol, made the acount on my phone and was half asleep, there its all edited now. :) I'll check out what you said to do, though the coil is new.

She starts! I was corect, distributor was way off, roater was hitting it way too late when piston was down, so i took and set timing back, adjusted dristibutor, cranked the key, and she fired! :))

Tis a good day!

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Originally Posted by Chargerx3

Tis a good day!

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Yes it is!
Btw did the pictures show? Wondering if i did them right.

Nice work - mission accomplished Fenster! (not in a George dubya way either) btw your D-50 looks pretty sharp in it's fresh paint. What have you got planned next?

Yea pics show

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Originally Posted by geezer101

Nice work - mission accomplished Fenster! (not in a George dubya way either) btw your D-50 looks pretty sharp in it's fresh paint. What have you got planned next?

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Thanks lol, Now I'm going to focus more on the interior. going to attempt to fix the cracks in the dash and do a vynel wrapping to go with the new paint. Then make some new door panels (with a cupholder In each door, lol) to also go with new paint. I have a power lock, and power windows that I have installed, and the 2 speakers in doors and a 4.1 sound system that sits behind the seats with 2 amps under the seats. Got to have that sound lol, but it's only used for parties. Also got some red underglow and bed lighting to instal. To acomidate all the power theres a 100amp alternator. I also did some paint work under the hood with the intake cover painted and exhause heat shield and timeing cover painted. Thats it right now. To drive him, ill need to get smogged :lmao:Attachment 14924should pass, doesn't burn oil anymore, or seem to run rich.

Gotta have cup holders! Way more important than passing an EPA inspection lol. The anti pollution crap on these engines make them run worse - shame you can't get around it. Did you change the coil and if you did change it, what did you use - OEM equivalent or a higher output coil?

The coil did not needed changed but was changed some time with a O'Reilly MasterPro, http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...ignition+coil+ Belive its equivalent to the original. Would higher output hurt anything if i wanted to put one in?

Attachment 14951So close to passing :rolleyes: dang you Mikuni carb lol... Found someone on this forum that I'll take it to soon to get it adjusted right and pass hopefully. Then I'll put my weber back on :grin: lol... Can anyone link me to or tell me a site to get the auto trans kick down rod attachment for this carb? My fix "worked" but wasn't great when I had the weber on. Also how would you know if a weber is Genuine? Kind of not thinking mine is genuine for some reason, it had a Weber sticker that fell off (which makes me wonder if its not real) and a warranty sticker that's still on. Bought on amazon, and 5 reviews with 4.7 stars. Also before I swapped carbs, I noticed a puddle of gas setting in the manifold, like a 1-2 ounces... I can post a few pics of it if needed.

Ill get the hang on posting pics eventually :Plol... idk why the same pic showed up on the bottom.

There's a sticky on buying a Weber (you think I could find it?). A genuine Weber has the manufacturers' name cast onto the body of the carb. There are a lot of junk copies of the 32/36 floating around and enough members here will warn you to keep clear of them. They are literally untuneable and dump fuel like there's a hole in it somewhere. I think the resin bodied Mikunis' performance issue relates to the overlap between the primary and secondary throat. If the secondary could open earlier in the game it would fatten up midrange torque.

Im thinking I have a junk weber, ill go to webercarbsdirect and see what they got, no wonder I didn't like the performance of it when I had that weber I had on to begin with, didn't seem right. Yeah secondary might be the problem on the Mikuni. If only the 30 year law that made cars require smog, I think they go rid of it in 2005 sadly, wouldn't have to worry too much on this stuff.

If you're required to run the anti-pollution crap on the engine be aware of how it works and what it does. If the exhaust gas gallery is coked up then it will mess with your gas analysis. Make sure the gallery through the head from #4 exhaust port is clear, the gallery running from the port under #3 inlet runner around the inlet manifold to the EGR valve is also clear and the EGR piston has free movement. If it is badly coked up and blocked I have absolutely no idea how to clean out the EGR gallery on the manifold. This stuff is the worst designed pollution control system you could put on an engine next to the 'smog pump' which fudges the numbers by forcing clean air into the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust system :rolleyes: (companies were doing it back then and VW is doing it now...)

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Originally Posted by FenstermakerWJ

Im thinking I have a junk weber, ill go to webercarbsdirect and see what they got.

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Weber Carbs Direct sells the fakes! They'll never run right. Go through Redline Weber.

Thank you for that info, I'll go there instead, how do you order on that website though, have to call?

When I had the exhaust manifold and intake off a month ago ii took a long tube brush and a drill, and boy was that clogged... I agree the smog equipment is kinda "stupidly" designed, almost like they want you to take it off Lol.

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Originally Posted by geezer101

If you're required to run the anti-pollution crap on the engine be aware of how it works and what it does. If the exhaust gas gallery is coked up then it will mess with your gas analysis. Make sure the gallery through the head from #4 exhaust port is clear, the gallery running from the port under #3 inlet runner around the inlet manifold to the EGR valve is also clear and the EGR piston has free movement. If it is badly coked up and blocked I have absolutely no idea how to clean out the EGR gallery on the manifold. This stuff is the worst designed pollution control system you could put on an engine next to the 'smog pump' which fudges the numbers by forcing clean air into the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust system :rolleyes: (companies were doing it back then and VW is doing it now...)

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So what I kinda got from this is that i should be fine if I shif my auto like a manual use 1st then 2nd then D then to pass D to 2nd?And to stop i need to but it back in 1? Would that work? What is good about the 38, more power less economy? How much less economy? Yeah I'm just filled with questions lol. :)
Attachment 14955

It looks as if you replaced the radiator? What is the number for the radiator cap ? I need to order one .Thanks

Nice truck btw.

you will have to fabricate a kickdown linkage for the cable from the tranny for the passing gear to work and to not fry the tranny. There is a thread on here with a drawing to help with fabricating the linkage.

Thanks, yes the radiator has been replaced. the cap is a Stant 10329 Lev-R-Vent 13psi cap. I like having the pressure release ones.

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Originally Posted by maxdsm

It looks as if you replaced the radiator? What is the number for the radiator cap ? I need to order one .Thanks

Nice truck btw.

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Stant 10329 Lev-R-Vent 13psi cap. I like having the pressure release ones.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

you will have to fabricate a kickdown linkage for the cable from the tranny for the passing gear to work and to not fry the tranny. There is a thread on here with a drawing to help with fabricating the linkage.

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Alright thanks I'll take look, I think I came across that post once.

Got some new problem, truck stalls when thrown in gear, when it does run in gear and you give it gas it either stalls or dives like a snail. It doesn't seem like it wants to shift though, but dont know for sure as i cant get it up to speed for it to shift :/ I'd be more happy if it was the trans than that carb because ones easier to understand than the other lol. It idles fine and everything in park, doesn't have smoke of any color coming out of pipe.

Sounds like the fuel pump died - are you running a reg with the original pump to match the weber 3 psi needs - that will kill a pump in short order due to excessive back pressure.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Sounds like the fuel pump died - are you running a reg with the original pump to match the weber 3 psi needs - that will kill a pump in short order due to excessive back pressure.

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Right now I am trying to get it smogged again so I have to use all original equipment so that includes running with the Mikuni carb, I did replace the mechanical pump when i had to swap the Weber for the Mikuni last month. Now that i think of it I had the same problem it seemed once i was running the Weber when i was running the other mechanical pump. should i just get a electric pump?

Yes - it will work with the weber best - if you have to run the Mikuni - get a 7 psi pump and use a regulator when you install the weber. Look at the threads for installing the electric pump - it gives you all the info to do it correctly. The pump will need to be mounted back by the tank, as most of the electric pumps are pusher type pumps.

Alright thanks, I'll let you know what happens. Hopefully that fixes it.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Yes - it will work with the weber best - if you have to run the Mikuni - get a 7 psi pump and use a regulator when you install the weber. Look at the threads for installing the electric pump - it gives you all the info to do it correctly. The pump will need to be mounted back by the tank, as most of the electric pumps are pusher type pumps.

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Ok so my fuel psi test shows it running at 5psi and jumping to 5.5psi when given gas, the Mikuni carb needs 7psi right,? looks like I'm going to an electric pump.

it does sound weak - time for an electric pump

Good news! The truck passed smog!!! It pasted 3 weeks ago, and after a small adjustments it's running great!

Just a small problem, you know that little piece that bolts onto the valve cap that you can adjust the tension of the throttle cable with... Yeah, i need to get a new one, bolt stripped, guess I'll see what i can fabercate.

I also got a 38 weber, I have a idea how to mod the kickdown on it. Probably do the install in spring.

All is doing good for the most part. I have reason to believe the Mikuni is only working 1 barrel not 2... Just how my gas pedal feels not as stiff as it use to... And the 2nd barrel doesn't look like it opening fully... Not going to question it lol since it purs fine and beats the hondas lol. But if you have advice on what could be causing it, then I'll sure take a look.

Right now I'm patching the dash, paint it and will do the door panels next and rest of interior to match its paint.

Hope all is good with everyone, thanks for all your past advice and tips they helped a lot. I'll have a few more pictures to share later when they are on my pc. :)

Check the secondary vacuum actuator. Test it with the engine off by disconnecting the vac hose to the actuator and hooking up a longer hose to it then suck on the other end. If you're able to continuously pull air through the hose, the diaphragm is split. Easy to replace and doesn't need the carb to come off the engine. Just takes a little leverage once the retaining nut and small circlip on the throttle shaft are removed.

Don't go to webercarbsdirect - they sell the junk weber knockoffs! Only buy from from sellers with webers cast with made in Spain on them. Redline Weber carbs are the real deal

I did the test, it seems like it is split, also possibly a dumb question but... Is there supposed to be liquid in there, because when i was testing it, i heard something like liquid in it.. not sure if thats normal, or because i was opening it and fuel was possibly flowing through the barrel. Also whats the part number for those or a link to get one? Thanks :)

Found out why I've had such high idle while in park and neutral... My throttle was sticking open when foot was off gas, the spring went bad... Well atleast thats good and simple. *knocks on wood* lol

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Originally Posted by FenstermakerWJ

I did the test, it seems like it is split, also possibly a dumb question but... Is there supposed to be liquid in there, because when i was testing it, i heard something like liquid in it.. not sure if thats normal, or because i was opening it and fuel was possibly flowing through the barrel. Also whats the part number for those or a link to get one? Thanks :)

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No fluid in them, just a rubber diaphragm sealed between the outer casing halves and the actuator rod mount. The diaphragm makes a 'gurgling' noise sometimes. Yours look like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SECONDARY-DI...dVEEni&vxp=mtr

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Originally Posted by geezer101

No fluid in them, just a rubber diaphragm sealed between the outer casing halves and the actuator rod mount. The diaphragm makes a 'gurgling' noise sometimes. Yours look like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SECONDARY-DI...dVEEni&vxp=mtr

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Looks like it, I'll get one soon, when i get motivation to pull the air intake off again lol.

Hey, i have a opportunity to get a 91 mighty max for like dirt cheap engine and all, just rear end pretty much shot. I belive its the 2.4 v6. I saw a engine compatible chart somewhere on here for what could be used as a swap, but forget where and didn't remember seeing a 2.4 on it. Soo im curious lol... Would I be able to put that engien and trans into my truck lol... Ooorrr bolt my body to that frame lol, which i dont see anything yet in the ca rule book about a body swap lol ;)

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Originally Posted by FenstermakerWJ

I belive its the 2.4 v6.

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I mean 2.4 i4 lol... I think haha

Very nice.