Suggestions on my setup.

Interested in knowing what people are doing with some of the vac hookups off the manifold. Researched but turned nothing this detailed. where would the advance line go? Its running rich but I have not played with the idle air mix yet and running open exhaust right after the header (waiting on body work before running exhaust). its actaully running rich enough to the point of bad bogging under heavy throttle whether driving or stationary.

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0onhhwsl.jpg

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psruwkxfa8.jpg

Disregard the temporary fuel line setup fyi, haven't had a chance to mount holly regulator yet to replace the mech reg.

any and all help and suggestions are appreciated.

Did you get your carb from Interco/Weber Carbs Direct or eBay?

:( webercarbsdirect I bought like a month before it was common knowledge. And it sat uninstalled for a few months while the truck was on the back burner

no ideas or is it that dumb of a question?

I thought I posted a reply earlier, but here it is: because it is a webercarbdirect carb, you will never be able to tune it to not run rich - many have tried. It is a poorly made solex carb that interco sells as a weber - it is a a copy of a work alike carb made in china. The same goes for Empi weber carbs - look great, but untunable.

You can get it bronzed and use it as a paperweight.

So i wasted 200 something bucks?...awesome..... So unrelated anybody want a knock off Weber 32/36??? Also Im not entirely sure which carb would be ideal for my setup. dont care about mpgs. just reliability and set and forget it. 87 2.0 2wd 5 speed. no a/c, no p/s base. more going for looks than power.

weber 32/36 is the one to go with - Geronimo has had one on him since 1983, so they work well on these trucks. My 86 project truck is a match for your truck, it will be getting power steering and a weber when I start on it this winter.

thinking electric choke or man? Also since i have the mounting and all other crap, could i just buy the carb and not the whole kit to save me some money?

so which one, DGEV DFEV DGAV. wth is a water choke????

Electric choke. DGAV with the water choke ("Aqua") uses the coolant temp to sense when the engine is up to temp. It's a little more tricky to plumb but all reports say it works fine. DFEV and DGEV are mirror images of each other, it depends on how you want to route the accelerator cable. Which model is really a matter of personal preference for how you want your truck to look and work.

The fake Weber is a $200 mistake many of us here have made. Costly lesson that you get exactly what you pay for. I made it, too, and ever since, I try not to cheap out on parts and always find out what the country of origin is. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Attachment 14763

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Electric choke. DGAV with the water choke ("Aqua") uses the coolant temp to sense when the engine is up to temp. It's a little more tricky to plumb but all reports say it works fine. DFEV and DGEV are mirror images of each other, it depends on how you want to route the accelerator cable. Which model is really a matter of personal preference for how you want your truck to look and work.

The fake Weber is a $200 mistake many of us here have made. Costly lesson that you get exactly what you pay for. I made it, too, and ever since, I try not to cheap out on parts and always find out what the country of origin is. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Attachment 14763

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Sad thing was when i purchased, I was trying not to cheap out. I bought from Webercarbsdirect.com paid $279.00 shipped in early 2013. which was comparable with other prices. So didn't think of a chance of being a knockoff. Electric Choke only requires and 12v power wire and thats all?
So check this link for me,
http://www.amazon.com/WEBER-Carburet...=weber+32%2F36
I am just trying to find an easy bolt on and go solution. Ill float the bill. I did contact Webercarbsdirect to see what they will do if anything waiting on a response but not getting my hopes up on that.
I really appreciate the help guys

http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kit...hrysler-dodge/
There we go. I'd hate to spend the extra money on the kit when i have everything minus carb from the knockoff, but looks like I dont have a choice.

Look on Ebay - there are legit sellers with genuine weber carbs that sell only the carb from redline weber.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-...f06675&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-32-36-...fcd73d&vxp=mtr

So DF is throttle linkage facing firewall, DG is cable facing front of vehicle?

that is correct. rotation of throttle is CW for DGV, CCW for DFV, same as stock carb.

So I spoke to John at WeberCarbsDirect and he sounded surprised when i told him i purchased a knockoff from him. Like i said before it said on a shelve past the warranty time before I got to it so my expectations on this call were very low. John offered to send me a rebuild kit for free and said they sell a bunch and hasnt heard of any issues with this particular unit.

LOL. Rebuild a piece of junk and you're still left with a piece of junk.

Did he say it was a "genuine" Weber? It's "genuine" in that Interco/WeberCarbsDirect bought a license to mass produce crappy, low cost copies of the European Weber years ago, and then farmed out production to some no-name company in China. And they've been ripping people off ever since.

Calling it a "genuine Weber" is misleading, using weasel words AT BEST and straight up false advertising at worst.

http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/

the casting is so poor, that the fuel doesn't run through the metering passages, and just dumps into the carb. It you are going to rebuild a carb, get a used one off of ebay,and use the rebuild kit from webercarbsdirect to rebuild it. They are easy to rebuild.

Thanks, I dont plan to rebuild, but hey why turn down a free rebuild kit?? Hope to order one next week when i finally get over that I threw away 270 bucks. Im sure that I post a link to it to confirm your opinions before ordering.

We are here to help so you don't have any more issues.

^Thanks, sorry for delayed response. Had some sbc rebuilds to take care of and work load got heavy. Ok so forgive my ignorance, but sounds like I am ready to make my order for the DFEV 32/36. Please somebody send me a link to a genuine weber dealer. I just had a big spat with Holly as they sent me 2 wrong parts and wouldnt admit to it until I sent 900 freaking pictures. They were wrong. I really dont have time to run through something like that again.

.......:(

O.k. Here's some legit Weber traders -

http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/ - (and have a good read on their home page about what you're really getting with a chinese knock off)

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp - (these guys appear to be legit and they have good prices too!)

Time to go shopping Rymar! :grin:

Ordered! Thanks! down to the short list to be DD status

Blew a valve, more than likely from attempting to run that knock off and just age of head. Off to the machine shop she goes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rymar Garage

Blew a valve, more than likely from attempting to run that knock off and just age of head. Off to the machine shop she goes.

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...and time for a little port and polish fun! :grin: Hopefully your ports don't look anything like mine did when I sent my head off to get recon'd.

yea, they're pretty rough now :(

Said while it does need a valve job, it saw no reason it would be dumping oil on the cylinders????? wtf...I really freaking hope i dont need rings...
Any ideas of why it would have oil on the cylinder head? I figured valve seal but I was wrong. I first noticed because oil was coming out of the header from cylinder #4. Pulled the head and wabam, oil errywhere.

Check and make sure your valve guides haven't slipped. This is a problem I discovered in my 4G64, and the repair guy said it's common for these engines...and probably yours', too.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26193

This wasn't easy to detect until I pulled the valve springs off and looked closely.

^awesome info, will take the next few hours digesting and will call machince shop back. I told them go ahead and do port polish and valve job. So this would cover all the seals.

Post above the link I provided: "The EXHAUST valve guide pushing down, and disengaging the valve seal, was common to these (and other Mitsubishi) engines. The reason is simple: iron and aluminum...particularly the exhaust valve, where temperature causing expansion/contraction is more dramatic." I hope this IS the problem, and not rings. Good luck! :))

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[12-18-2015 04:58 PM] Rymar Garage: Im hoping guides slipped. will know when I get it back from mach shop. otherwise going back into the block, thanks for all info

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The slipped valve guide is an easy fix, they just tap it back into place...it's the ring retainers that are crucial.

Keep us posted on your findings and progress, R.G.!!

^ will do, I am trusting the shop to do a good job. They have in the past just a little worried for some reason on this one

^^^
The 'guide slide' issue is NOT a Mitsu specific problem... every mfgr whom has used aluminum
heads has had the same issue.
Whether the guides were sintered iron, brass, bronze, or any # of other alloys the cure was always a 'circlip'
on the guide.
Just fyi, the guide movement in the head (from axial force transfer) also tends to 'wallow out'
the guide bore in the head... hence oversize guides (outside diameter) are available ...
Usually up too .005, after that the casting is a door stop.
Again , this rule of thumb, (last machine shop I worked in was '90).
Having said the above, to help with Your reservations, could You post
a pic of the head gasket, deck & bores ??
THX!!

Well the head has a visible crack between 3-4. So Anybody got a head for sale??? damnit, I should have stuck to the v8 swaps i kept saying no to. would have been cheaper lol. Little bummed and lost about how to find another. Junkyards suck and I dont have time for that. Nothing on craigslist

Did you ask the shop if they could weld the crack? I've heard that can be done.

Just a suggestion.

I asked but they said they didnt feel comfortable doing it on this one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rymar Garage

Thanks, I dont plan to rebuild, but hey why turn down a free rebuild kit?? Hope to order one next week when i finally get over that I threw away 270 bucks. Im sure that I post a link to it to confirm your opinions before ordering.

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LOL... Welcome to the money down the drain club.
Have you checked with clear water heads in Florida?

http://www.cylinder-heads.com/cylind...ms-fits-87-91/
not bad, this really left a bad taste in my mouth though. I swear if I order this and something big goes wrong I will kill somebody

Well, just ordered it. 5 year warranty. some complete minus lifters and cam. which Ill reuse cam, and order new lifters

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camoit

LOL... Welcome to the money down the drain club.
Have you checked with clear water heads in Florida?

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Thanks so much for that. I ordered it. Still picking up 302/c6 this weekend for future build or backup just incase

Old Head
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psajovokdg.jpg
New Head
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psajovokdg.jpg

sorry, here is the old head.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...pslmvmwsmq.jpg

Is this too much of a newb question? I am a little worried this bad boy might not work :(

I'm a bit lost on the question you were asking but if I am looking at the 2 compared heads, you are good to go on the new head. It is a later variant head that is the same as your old jet valve, minus the extra machine work. Get onto it dude! :thumbup:

^awesome! thats what i need to hear lol. Sorry I have been in a madhouse rush traveling all around the US for work and not having the time to look at this and type sucks.
Ill bolt it up thursday and hopefully she will be ready to rock!