Hi guys, so I've done this complete turbo setup on my
truck. Runs really well but it's only boosting 1-2 psi.
Turbine housing is .63 on an 8valve 4g63. Possible i
went to large on the turbo?
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Hi guys, so I've done this complete turbo setup on my
truck. Runs really well but it's only boosting 1-2 psi.
Turbine housing is .63 on an 8valve 4g63. Possible i
went to large on the turbo?
The size of your turbo isn't the problem. Have you done a boost leak test? What type of wastegate setup are you running?
Excuse me, 4g64. Stock motor in the ram. I haven't done a boost leak check
the is pretty new, all the couplers seem tight. What would u suggest?
8 Valve 4G63? in a 93?...yeah, check for boost leak, I'm running anywhere from 25-30lbs boost .82 trim on a PTE 6262.
http://www.mmeierle.com/DTR81.jpeg
ITs a 4g64 excuse me. But I see yours has a massive turbo
but in stock form you think it would spool it
Your 4g64 should be able to spool that turbo almost instantly. Either you have a massive boost leak or possible issues with what ever wastegate your running.
what he said...check the wastegate? what spring is in it? is there a manual boost controller?
boost leak checker--$5 in parts from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot.
http://www.mmeierle.com/Boost%20Leak%20Checker.JPG
Throttle Body Gasket was the cause of my boost leak...
http://www.mmeierle.com/TB%20Gasket%20Blown.JPG
It was the cheap ebay wastegate. I bolted a bare dp flange on and
it boosted up almost instantly. Get what you pay for :(
it still runs terrible with any boost. Detonation at 3psi
Premium Fuel, also what are you using for Fuel Injection Control, you need to get rid of the MAF and go speed density with a aftermarket ECU on the pressurized side of the intake.. The MAF doesn't see the boost, it's in front of the Turbo, and it controls the amount of Fuel, you are way lean. What size injectors are in it? stock 275's? have to be AT LEAST 450's. I assume an Intercooler?
tell me more...
http://www.mmeierle.com/Engine%20Wiring%20Wrap%202.JPG
as of right now all the fuel system is completely stock. i have 450cc injectors to put in a long with an safe. my problem i don't have a wide band yet so i really have no clue on setting up a base map on the safe. id love to install it though. and yes, I'm pretty positive its super lean. 2 psi and its hoping and sputtering. I'm not trying to build a race truck.. just a simple 8-10psi cruiser. I've also looked into an e manage like greedy. any idea what i should set my ignition timing at?
yes small front mount
Probably have way too much timing advance as well, n/a timing tables are way way too aggressive for a turbo application.
Do you have a wideband? If you don't that should be the next thing you get. Can't get a custom turbo setup running good without no way to monitor your air/fuel ratio.
safc's are garbage to tune with, but if its all you have it can work.
You can either pull 10-15 degrees from the cam/distribtor(not sure which one you use) or you can run static timing by locking the cam/distribtor and setting it at around 10-15 degrees advanced. Both are gonna cut your fuel mileage quiet a bit. Since your timing will be set up for WOT full boost, your gonna loose alot in your cruising and idling which will reduce efficiency.
Chances are the truck is building boost while its still in closed loop. So your gonna want to disable closed loop and have the truck run in open loop all the time. Just unhook o2 sensor to accomplish this.
For your fuel system, your gonna want a high flow high pressure pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
You'll use the safc in combination with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator to meet your fuel demands for boost. You may have to drill a few holes into your maf to allow extra unmetered air in to get your crusing and idle a/f ratios to an acceptable level.(due to the increased fuel pressure and flow)
Boosting on the stock ecu is a pain in the ass and you loose quiet a bit of mpg's but it is possible. Going standalone is a way better option if its in the budget.
no wideband yet. the only thing I've done was put in a 2g turbo maf...
i just want the truck to run good on 5 psi. i have no clue where my ignition timing is but either twist on it still runs awful
Go back to the stock maf. The 2g maf has no place for you to drill holes to increase the unmetered air flow.
If you want it to run good, either go stand alone or find a turbo ecu for it. As long as you stay on that n/a ecu, the most you could ever hope for is it to be able to run without blowing up.
I've been a honda guy my whole life. my last turbo civic made over 500whp uncorrected. I've even had 400 whp 2g gsx.. I'm not new to the tuning world but this truck is something else... having a hard time ;(
a turbo ecu requires coil packs... my truck is distributor
I'm almost considering an fmu for now.. I'm lost on this thing
I had a hard time tuning my 4g37 thats fuel injected when i went turbo. Took me a while to figure it out. But after hooking up to the stock ecu and logging it i found out the ecu has a maf cap and injector duty cap. The ecu ignored everything over around 800hz. My safc would show max hz readings of around 1800-2400hz . Also no matter what i did injector duty never went much passed 50%. And then i saw that my timing was around 33 degrees advanced during wot. Also the ecu staying in closed loop even when in full boost, if it was under 4krpm. So if the ecu on your 64 is anything like a 37, it sucks a big one.
There should be a 2 pin pigtail somewhere along the firewall with a single pin inside it. When you ground the pin it puts the ecu in diagnostics mode and sets ignition timing to base timing. If you leave the pin grounded the ecu will always run base timing no matter what. I'd say do that and set it at 10 degrees for now.
so if i went to an safe with 450cc injectors I'm still going to be running lean? can i convert this 64 to a 63 ecu?my friend has a parts car 93 gsx.. no motor but it may have ecu and harness
wiring is no issue.. but converting my motor to coil packs is all I'm worried about
10 degrees retarded?
set it to 10 degrees advanced if you ground that pin out and leave it grounded.
If you switch to the 63t ecu and harness, then all you have to worry about is wiring your distribtor into it as a cam sensor. Coils and power transistor will be plug and play on that harness. Now im not sure if the distributor will have the same type of signal as the 63t's cam. I've looked into the swap but haven't figured that issue out yet. I have the distributor pinout and know it sends a signal for top dead center as well as cam angle.
ill have to do more research on it. id love it to just run normal
I just checked the pinout for a 1g dsm and it lists crank angle and top dead center. So it is possible to wire everything up. Its just a matter if the signals are compatible or not. The cam sensor is a hall effect type on the dsm. I haven't been able to find out what type our distributor is.
Did a quick search to see how a hall effect sensor works, it uses a magnet. The sensor inside our distributor doesn't use magnets...It just uses a wheel with cutouts in it. So it doesn't look very promising that it would work if you tried to do that swap.
Any clue what color the plug is? I'm seeing a white and brown with single wires.
And a blue with 3 wires
The ECU, harness, and main relay on the G64 is different than the G63.
The cam/ccrank sensor in the distributor is the same trigger wheel and sensor as the 1g.
Ergo, pull the harness, relay, coil packs, injectors, throttle body, and everything else that isn't the same from the G63 and stick it on the G64. You'll only have to worry about getting the TB to mate up.
Thanks for all the help guys
I think I'm just going to take the kit off and sell and make my truck stock again