Take 3! 1986 Ram Power 50

I think I have a sickness. Either that or i really do have ShitferBrains. I've just purchased my 3rd Ram50 in a year. I simply couldn't turn it down. This is basically the same truck as my 1st gen, only 4wd.
specs include 5 speed manual transmission, hi-low 4wd with auto locking hubs and factory bucket seats. Unloke my other two, this truck has been used and used well...
The stock 2.6l went out on the previous owner and he tore it apart. Completely flabergasted by the jet valaves, balance shafts, 2 timing chains and such, he gave up with it in pieces. Now I took advantage and took hit off his hands for a whopping 200 bones.
THE PLAN: Since I've hit a wall with my 1st gen 2wd build, and lost motivation for it, I've found a way to get it back. I'm going to take my rebuilt 2.6 pit of my 2wd and put it in the power ram. I'm going to get rid of the body blocks, sitting it back on the frame then suspension lift it to accomodate 35" mickey thompsons. Normal paint and interior rebuild included. Pictures to come.
Now for the 2wd, I'm jumping straight to stage 2 motor... I want a v8 under the hood. I've seen a built 318 fit nicely I to one so that's my first look, but I'll likely talk mtself into the mods to accommodate a chevy 350/th350.
Here are some teaser pics of the power ram... I've got a lot of work to do.
Sorry for writing a book but hey, I'm excited.

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love the chrome side window shades http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...1&d=1397182310

You don't have shitferbrains because you bought a new truck that looks nice and can be brought back on the road. But if you spend all your money and have to move back to mom's basement because of it, well then you have a problem. :lmao:
We will protect your secret luv for these damn trucks, we all have taken the oath. One more thing, one thing at a time will save your sole, lol. Great idea on the engine exchange, brilliant idea. Now wait until that's done before you bite a V8 in the arsk!

Very nice 4x4 Mandle, nice to see ya back. :)




PS, I'll give you $300 for the truck right now, lol. Oh ya, Ragtime he is going to need tail lights , look that that truck on that trailer :lmao:,

lights & a sliding rear window:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...s-lampassembly

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ndow-tri-panel

:))

Hell yeah! I would have, too! Awesome find!!! Congrats for expanding your collection, hehe.

I've been trying to find a body lift kit, would you sell me yours? I got an 86 first gen dodge ram 50 and its stock height but way too low.

I'm already doing a 2 inch suspension beef up, but another few on a body lift would be awesome, i just could find any kit. I'd rather buy what is known to work and fit than hack something together.

PM me

Okay update time! I haven't done a whole lot on the 4x4 but I've definitely got a start and figured I should share. Been soooo busy lately that I haven't had time to be online much, nor in the shop for my own rigs.
I pulled a front right fender from my ever expanding Ram 50 parts cache and installed it. I tore off the bent up front bumper and grill. I'm going to order or pull a stock grill from a yard and paint it myself, and I'm having a customer front winch bumper built, using the mounts from the original bumper as a platform.
I've pulled the original 2.6 and decided to rebuild it. I have a spare head that is just waiting for a block, and this block wasn't in bad shape, so decided not to rob my 2wd 1st gen of its power plant just yet. Block parts ordered, just waiting for the machinist and the block now. I've included a couple of pictures. Excuse my dingy garage, shady camera, and messy organization.... My home garage is never as organized as my shop.
I have a few other plans for the truck that I'll add some pics of. I bought a set of 12" wide wheels off a toyota buddy. I don't have any pictures yet because they're sitting at my machinist waiting to have the center bored out, but they'll come soon. Right now I'm thinking 35's, but I might just go with 31's... depends on the wheel offset and the fab I'd have to do to have full range of motion in steering.
I've got some suspension metal ordered. Most of the lift will be fabricated, with the exception of the front springs and of course store bought shocks. Might weld a hoop for mounting above the tire. Tends to give a bit less body roll and then I completely control the height I want to go to, and don't have to depend on blocks or spacers to get there. Still deciding.
Anywho I'm done typing for now. Here's some pictures.

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Got the head back from the machinist. Just got the camshaft and rockers on, with the initial valve adjustment. Hoping to get the block back in the next couple of days so I can do the rebuild and start re-installation.

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Got my block back from the machinist, prepped and painted.

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I need some advice now guys. I like the red/black scheme. I just can't decide what to do with the remaining pieces? Should I paint the timing cover at all? The head? The valve cover? What colors on each? My header is black, my engine mounts are of course black, engine bay is stock red so.... i don't know what to do on the other pieces.

i would absolutly love to know how you are going to lift your power ram enough for 35s.. I have the same truck and would like to do the same but am haveing a hard time finding anything but body lifts.. al how many inches must the power ram go up to accomadate 35s?

I'm building the majority of the suspension myself... It won't be a "kit". I'll add a leaf in the rear and create new shackles for the leafs to give me an inch or two of lift. Then I'll move the axle to below the leafs, rather than on top. That will give me another 3.5". Then I'll block it for the last 2" of lift. Total lift will be about 7 inches, with the option to go higher with a bigger block if needed. Then I'll add torsion bars from the frame to the rear axle, obviously beef up the rear shocks, and move to the front. I'll cut out most of the stock front suspension, and just create a solid upper "a-frame" from 2" pipe, and run my shocks and oversized springs from the frame to the A-arm (also known as control arm). Then I control the height by the size of the spring and shock.
After some adjustment to the steering and possibly drivelines, I should easily be able to accommodate up to 35's with a such a set up.

Parts came in today! New bearings, seals, rings, rods, pistons, and the full gasket kit. Got my balance shaft elimination done, got the pistons installed, got my pan cleaned up. Cleaning and painting the timing cover tomorrow, installing the head, timing kit and the rest of the gaskets. Hoping to install it in the truck this weekend.

HELP!!
I need an oil recommendation. I have finished the rebuild of my 2.6l for my 4x4 86 ram50, but apparently its calling for a 20w-50, and I've never run anything like that in anything except my motorcycle. Any recommendations for break in or daily use?

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Just the new clutch kit, the Alternator, Power Steering pump, crankshaft pulley, belts, carb and a few other odds and ends to go.

lookn great!....nice engine stand http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...1&d=1397434872

haha looks familiar.
Got mine at an estate sale for 3 bucks... haha

Couple of questions have come up mid build that I'm hoping some of you can help me with!
I've been struggling with fuel pump ideas. I can get my hands on the well-used Carter p4070 but I've seen some of you complaining about the noise and reliability? Anyone have anything good to say? It meets the specs Pennyman suggested for a non-regulated frame mount pump (72 gph, 5-7 psi)
I have an electrical fan I've mounted to my radiator with a built in shroud. I have a wiring harness that includes a temp sensor and adjustable temp kick on... I just have no idea where to put the sensor? I lost the package quite a while ago so not sure what to do with it. Any suggestions welcome.
Lastly, my carb and conversion kit are a bit old... I'm wanting to put new gaskets in it to prevent a much despised vacuum leak, but all I can find is cut it yourself gaskets. Anyone know where you can get the kit for the plates we use in the conversion? I can't find it on the weber site.
Thanks for any help!

redline for the weber gaskets, insert sensor into the fins on the rad, and I run a holley on Geronimo - its somewhat noisy too but it doesn't fail - been on Geronimo over 10 years now.

Neither Autozone nor Oreilly's has a part number for a holly that meets the specs that you're recommending.
I haven't been able to find a redline catalog number that has a number to call in an order, and the online website isn't being very helpful.

Got my fuel pump. Got my carb installed. Got my exhaust installed (Going to rip it out for a new one soon.
Almost ready to piece the last little stuff together and fire the rebuilt motor for the first time.
Then its time to start on the lift and body work =-D
I have my seats out now, going to start looking at what to do to replace the old ripped up rubber flooring.

Just drove my power ram on the rebuilt motor for the first time. Need to figure out a leak in the block off plate for the old mechanical Fuel Pump, and I need to fix a leak at the water pump, and of course I need my new exhaust. Other then that, it ran pretty smooth. Still need to do some last minute tuning but who doesn't?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mandle

Still need to do some last minute tuning but who doesn't?

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^signature line right there ;)

CONGRATULATIONS on your first drive after ALL that!!! :)

Update time!
I got the truck running and driving. Still having a leak from the block off plate for the mechanical fuel pump... Almost at a loss as to what to do there.
I've also stripped 2 studs out of the socket and caused myself a pretty significant exhaust leak. When I go to put my new pipe in, I'll address that.
I've spent the last 2 days putting the cosmetic pieces back on (bumpers, grill, front right fender) and patching up some horrible metal in the floor pans. Now that that's done, I can move on to the carpet and seats. That'll complete my interior.
I still have a few tuning issues to deal with before I move on to body work.

I'm having a serious power problem right now. I can only give it about half throttle then it chokes out like its hitting a governor. I'm assuming that the secondary jet on my old carb is clogged. Since I can't use the electronic choke in this truck anyways, I'm back and forth between rebuilding my carb, or just buying a whole new one.

I'm also wondering what other members have done for tuning on their webers? I basically slapped mine on and set my idle by the throttle cable... I didn't do anything with screws or floats or anything there... Maybe someone can point me to a thread on weber tuning?

Anyways, once I start chopping up this suspension and getting some new (not temporary) parts installed, I'll start getting better pictures.

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Ugh more oil leaks!
I've got leaks coming from the dizzy (easy fix), leaks coming from the rear cam plug, the pwr steering pump, the fuel pump block off plate, and the filter I added to the breather at the top of the valve cover. Too many leaks!
I have a plan for fixing them but I'm very curious why there's oil coming out of the filter on the valve cover filter??

you have a bad PCV valve that is stuck closed that is pressurizing the oil system, or you have a leak from one of the cylinders pressurizing the oil sump beyond what can be vented normally. Take off the oil filler cap while it is running and see if you get smoke or noise out of the opening.

when u get a chance..snap a few pics under the hood...where your leaks are...maybe we can identify the issue via pics.

Pennyman, I have smoke coming from the oil cap when its running. Damn thing seems like its leaking from the head gasket even now! And the oil that's draining out seems to be WAY thinner than when it when in... is it possible that I've got a blown head gasket after only 100 miles after rebuild?
Pennyman, I don't have any pcv valves on this motor? Where would one be installed???
I certainly hope I don't have a leak from one of the cylinders, I just did a full rebuild including pistons and rings!

The PCV screws into the top front of the valve cover if it has the right valve cover. Smoke out the oil filler cap is not good - that is causing the oil leaks. Try retorqueing the head bolts - you did use new headbolts -the originals are torque to yield and cannot be reused

Yeah I used new headbolts, and have checked the torque twice now.

So Pennyman, you're thinking blown head gasket too.

unfortunately yes - you are getting compression pressure into the oil system

Yeah I should be able to do a head gasket pretty quick. IDK wtf caused it to blow this early, but I'll straight edge the block and head and swap out the gasket. Hopefully Didn't warp anything.

I've got a header question. I've put off my exhaust for so long, I don't even remember what I learned my last time doing research.
I can get this pacemaker header online for really cheap but I don't understand how it can be for the 2.6/2.0... Aren't the heads completely different? It can't bolt to both!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pacesetter-H...dedd9f&vxp=mtr
Anyone try a pacemaker? Have any success stories?
I'm pretty sure I clogged my kitty pretty bad so I'm hoping to bypass it with a header that goes down far enough to meet the pipe, like I did on my 2wd. Problem is my 2wd came with that header, I just had to install it.
Any other suggestions besides the online Pacemaker?

the dg header is an improved Doug Thorley header design, but is not cheap. The pacesetter header only fits the 2.6, unless you have a 79 - 82 g52b 2.0, which is also an Astron even port design.

No Pennyman this 4x4 has the G54B. Did you look at that ebay link? Does that look like its going to fit? I know there's some question about some of these headers getting under the firewall/cab area. Right now I'm getting some serious leaks at a stripped bolt on my Exhaust manifold. I plan on retapping it and getting a new gasket in there, but that kind of pressure coming out of there tells me that my cat is likely clogged. Even if its not, I'm likely not getting the flow I'd like. I figure a long header/downpipe that will bypass that header would suit me nicely.

It will fit the motor, don't know if it will clear on a 4wd but it should - you may need the extension pipe to connect the header to the exhaust system.