Weber Carb Install Questions

Good News - I got my new carb in yesterday and began the install today! Unfortunately, I got snowed out during the install (however I get to go ski powder tomorrow!). My one car garage is currently our storage unit... so my truck is parked out back :( So, this gives me a good opportunity to ask a few questions that I'm uncertain about. Please keep in mind this is my first carb replacement, so please try to be kind if I ask something stupid!

The carb I ordered is from Redline Weber. It's the replacement kit for the g63b, standard trans., and has the manual choke (i'm trying to eliminate as many electric components as I can).

1. Throttle cable hook-up: I'm a little confused here. The instructions show a 'throttle cable bracket' that should hold the throttle cable in place, but I don't see anything in my parts that looks like the picture in the instructions. The only thing close to what I see in the instructions is the lever/arm shown in the image below. I remember reading something on this forum about certain models of these carbs relocating the throttle cable to the front of the carb (closest to the front of the truck rather than the firewall) - is that what I am supposed to do?

Attachment 13171 Attachment 13172

2.Adapter plates: This probably goes hand-in-hand with my first question. Does this look like it's backwards? The instructions state, "...Install the universal adaptor noting the position of the carb for the cable operation". I assumed that since the throttle cable was near the back of the carb, the arm for the throttle cable on the adaptor plate should be closest to the firewall, no?

Attachment 13173

Here's a few more pics that might help?

Attachment 13174 Attachment 13175 Attachment 13176

At the end of the day, at least this pile of crap is no longer under the hood!

Attachment 13177 Attachment 13178

I sure wish the instructions from Weber cam with more images. I learn much easier through visuals.

All feedback is appreciated!

The adaptor plate on the manifold is on backward - leg on the upper plate goes to outside of the manifold, just flip it 180. The bracket in the second pic goes on the valve cover, and the old cable mount that bolted onto the valve cover bolts on that bracket. That means you have to rotate the carb 180 to put the linkage to the front of the carb towards the rad. There should be a piece that has a hole with a nut that the cable goes through - you have to cut the lead end off that went into the old bracket to feed the cable into the fitting. Next time put a tarp over you and the truck so you don't get that snowed in feeling while you work...

btw - all the little yellow stickers match the line to the fitting. I counted 31
!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

The adaptor plate on the manifold is on backward - leg on the upper plate goes to outside of the manifold, just flip it 180. The bracket in the second pic goes on the valve cover, and the old cable mount that bolted onto the valve cover bolts on that bracket. That means you have to rotate the carb 180 to put the linkage to the front of the carb towards the rad. There should be a piece that has a hole with a nut that the cable goes through - you have to cut the lead end off that went into the old bracket to feed the cable into the fitting. Next time put a tarp over you and the truck so you don't get that snowed in feeling while you work...

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Ahhhh, that seems to make sense! Not seeing any piece that has a hole w/ nut for the cable to go through though - assuming this should be a part from the new kit, right?

I thought about making a little fort with a tarp to work under but the snow was coming in from all angles! Picture Forrest Gump when he's talking about it raining for days.. except snow, lol!

Thanks pennyman - I'm going to try and get back at it after skiing tomo!

in pic #6 - there is the bracket with the holes in it - that is where the cable adaptor goes, and the return spring hooks to.

oh my look at the snow, lol. Throw a towel over that thing. When you connect the vacuum to the dizzy, it will be the ported connection in this image. You will most likely have to remove the tiny screw and block the other one next to it.
Use the one most forward on the carb.

Attachment 13179

Thanks again guys - I probably wouldn't be attempting this on my own if it wasn't for your support, this is a great learning experience for me.

Cheers!

the part I was referring to is shown on the install sheet at the bottom - it should have come with the kit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

the part I was referring to is shown on the install sheet at the bottom - it should have come with the kit.

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This is starting to make more sense! Got in late last night from an epic day of skiing powder at Breck, and was able to flip the adapter plates around (that I prev. had on backwards), but it was still snowing to hard to to anything more. I might try to take a quick look this morning before heading into work, otherwise I'll be back at it tonight!

Thanks for your help and patience!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

in pic #6 - there is the bracket with the holes in it - that is where the cable adaptor goes, and the return spring hooks to.

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I got the cable adapter in place, but I don't see a return spring - at least not with the new kit. More importantly, I'm still not seeing the 'throttle cable bracket' as seen in the instructions (image 1 below). I was trying to find an image of what this whole set-up looks like installed (for reference) but couldn't. I did however find an old post from you saying, "Look up Geronimo in the Gallery for my engine bay pic for a front cable setup." However, I wasn't able to find this gallery? Anyway you could provide this image?

I might end up jumping on the horn with Redline as well. Although I GREATLY appreciate all of your help, they offer customer support for people like me for a reason! I might as well take advantage of that.

Thank

Forgot to upload the images, sorry...

1.
Attachment 13207

2.
Attachment 13208

I would say if it wasn't in the box, you didn't get one. I am still trying to figure out what that bracket above the throttle linkage is for - it could clamp the end of the throttle cable sheath, but its in the wrong place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

I would say if it wasn't in the box, you didn't get one. I am still trying to figure out what that bracket above the throttle linkage is for - it could clamp the end of the throttle cable sheath, but its in the wrong place.

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If we're looking at the same bracket, that is for the choke. In pic #2 (in my post from 2/23), you can see the little post/screw with the hole in the middle, that is where the manual choke is.

Also, I spoke with tech support from Redline tonight and they confirmed that my kit did not come with the throttle cable bracket. I am supposed to use the 'boomerang' mounted to the valve cover to reposition the throttle cable. He did give me the part # for that bracket and told me if I wanted to order one I could. I haven't completely hooked everything up yet, but it seems strange to me that the two nuts (seen in the pic below) on the throttle cable don't mount to a bracket (similar to factory) with this new kit? Pennyman - I believe you have a similar throttle cable set-up, correct? Can you confirm this?

Attachment 13233

Here's another kit I found that is very similar to mine, but he has the throttle cable bracket.

Attachment 13234

Here's a few pics of where I'm at today. Still confused about this throttle cable reposition, it appears to me that the throttle cable bracket is needed or I have the 'boomerang' hooked up incorrectly (which is totally possible). Using the boomerang alone - I'm not seeing any way the throttle cable will properly feed to the mounting bracket on the carb (with all the holes in it). the cable is way too close to the air filter and comes in at an angle. See pics..

1.
Attachment 13260

2.
Attachment 13261

3.
Attachment 13262

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

I took my stock carb apart. Then tack welded the half round Cable connection doohickey to my Weber. This way The throttle actually rolls open

I ended up buying this Backet kit because I really don't think that bracket is for g63b motor
I got the same Boomerang bracket with my Weber kit as well .If you call the direct they will sell you just the bracket .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/universal-li...fed13f&vxp=mtr

Seeing that on the g63b, the boomerang is not for it, but it does work for the 2.6. I think I posted the same or similar kit in the for sale threads.

I also emailed these pics to Redline this afternoon and at first they tried to claim that I had the boomerang hooked up wrong - then called to tell me that was false and this part was not compatible with my motor. I just wish they would have told me this when I ordered the carb from the beginning, ya know? So, I will most likely end up ordering the bracket from Redline in the morning.

Anyway, I really appreciate everyone's feedback. Camoit - your solution seems like a great idea. I'll probably try to work on that once I get through the initial installation of the carb and fuel pump. Really getting pumped about getting her running good again!

Good News - I got the throttle cable mounting bracket from Weber!

However, I could use a little help/advice. I've got the new carb in place but I'm a little confused as to what goes where when hooking everything back up - my apologies for being amateur hour! Here's what I'm looking for some help with:

1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
Attachment 13275

4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
Attachment 13276

5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
Attachment 13277

By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
Attachment 13278

Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
Attachment 13279 Attachment 13280

6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
Attachment 13283

7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
Attachment 13281

A ordered a chilton manual for the truck but it's still not here, my apologies for asking some of these newb questions that are probably covered in the manual. And since the weber instructions don't feature many images for reference, I'm doing my best!

Thanks in advance!

Sorry about the missing images in the above post. It appears that they may have exceeded a size limit so I broke them down below.

OK, I just downsized all the images and I'm going to try this one more time (fingers crossed)...

1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
Attachment 13284

4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
Attachment 13285

5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
Attachment 13286

By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
Attachment 13287

Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
Attachment 13288 Attachment 13289

6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
Attachment 13290

7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
Attachment 13291

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ramshorn

Good News - I got the throttle cable mounting bracket from Weber!

However, I could use a little help/advice. I've got the new carb in place but I'm a little confused as to what goes where when hooking everything back up - my apologies for being amateur hour! Here's what I'm looking for some help with:

1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
Attachment 13275

The 2.6 is different but you are referring to crankcase ventilation I think. The hose goes from the valve cover to the base of the air filter, yes.

4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
Attachment 13276

5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
Attachment 13277

I will try to answer what I can cipher from the pics. There are two "inlets" to the fuel bowl. Hook up the fuel supply line to one. Hook up the fuel return line back to the fuel tank to the other. You are essentially removing the EVAP canister from the system, and will allow the return line to keep the fuel bowl from overfilling.

By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
Attachment 13278

Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
Attachment 13279 Attachment 13280

The female side that is not threaded is just a vent to the atmosphere. Nothing hooks up to it.

6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
Attachment 13283

Run a rubber vacuum line to the distributor vacuum advance. That's what that port is for.

Hard to tell from the picks, but if it is a nipple on the intake, it gets plugged off. The factory carb was heated by engine coolant, but the Weber is not. It has to be plugged.

7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
Attachment 13281

That is the EGR. Plug it off or remove it.

A ordered a chilton manual for the truck but it's still not here, my apologies for asking some of these newb questions that are probably covered in the manual. And since the weber instructions don't feature many images for reference, I'm doing my best!

Thanks in advance!

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Mine is installed with the throttle cable on the backside (firewall) side. Note that these carbs are for many different car, trucks all kinds of applications really. That's why you can end up with different stuff in the various kits.

I have a question for Pennyman...how can one install the throttle cable on the "front" and it work properly? If you rotate the carb 180 deg how can the cable 'pull' the throttle open? What am I missing and am I being a dumb ass? :confused1:

It depends on the model carb you have and how the throttle bracket arm is installed. With Geronimo, his is in the front and rotates CCW (counter clock wise) on a DGEV. On a DFAV the throttle shaft rotates CW (clock wise) when mounted with the linkage on the back of the carb. If you mount the DFAV with the linkage in the front, then you have to flip the throttle bracket arm 180 degrees to get it to rotate clockwise. This confuses everyone - don't feel bad. They used to sell the DFAV carbs for the automatic truck conversions to make the linkage work like the original Mikuni with the kickdown linkage.

That Port tube needs to be blocked off, there is a smaller port tube just in front (forward) and a bit higher up of that larger one. It has a flat head screw inserted in it. Take out the screw and plug the Distributor to that one. If you use the wrong one the distributor will be advance way too early and you will not get the timing correct if it is connected to that wrong one. You want the distributor to advance in the higher rpm, not at idle.
This is if you installed the carb with the choke on the drivers side of the vehicle. In the image below, you are looking at the usual drivers or left side of the carb as you are facing forward in your truck. Be careful to get this correct and to examine the image below to compare your installation. If you put your carb in on reverse, then it will be on the other side .
The spare tube that you end up blocking off can be used for a vacuum gauge which can help diagnose problems. This gauge can be installed full time and placed into the cab of the truck to also show your fuel usages or heavy foot driving. It's a productive gauge that rarely people use, but shows a lot about engine condition.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9&d=1382595662


That diaphragm thing can be plugged on both ends. Or, removed and place a block plate over the EGR holes left behind when it is removed. Nice to have extra room under the hood.
Attachment 13293

Thanks for your input & advice guys! Cinnamon is back on the road and running better than ever!!! Since we didn't have a garage and there's about 10" of snow on the ground, I haven't done the electronic fuel pump yet. We did get the holley fuel press. reg. & fuel press. gauge installed though - fuel press. is steady just under 3psi.

Your feedback was very helpful! Still have a few other things to tidy up and what not but all-in-all this carb is a real game changer for Cinnamon! I'll get some pictures uploaded later today - I was so exciting after getting her running I forgot to take any pics, lol.

Another success story goes into the record book for the forum. Minus the pictures...:P

Check your plugs down the road to make sure it is burning correctly. To lean or too rich, the plugs will show. Sounds like you got everything good though. You'll like the carb.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradMph

That Port tube needs to be blocked off, there is a smaller port tube just in front (forward) and a bit higher up of that larger one. It has a flat head screw inserted in it. Take out the screw and plug the Distributor to that one. If you use the wrong one the distributor will be advance way too early and you will not get the timing correct if it is connected to that wrong one. You want the distributor to advance in the higher rpm, not at idle.
This is if you installed the carb with the choke on the drivers side of the vehicle. In the image below, you are looking at the usual drivers or left side of the carb as you are facing forward in your truck. Be careful to get this correct and to examine the image below to compare your installation. If you put your carb in on reverse, then it will be on the other side .
The spare tube that you end up blocking off can be used for a vacuum gauge which can help diagnose problems. This gauge can be installed full time and placed into the cab of the truck to also show your fuel usages or heavy foot driving. It's a productive gauge that rarely people use, but shows a lot about engine condition.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9&d=1382595662


That diaphragm thing can be plugged on both ends. Or, removed and place a block plate over the EGR holes left behind when it is removed. Nice to have extra room under the hood.
Attachment 13293

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Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...:thumbup:

Alright, here's the pics I promised..

As I mentioned, I'm still trying to decide where I want to register this truck and that will determine how much 'extra baggage' I can trim from under the hood for emissions testing. For this reason, you will notice a few parts still on the truck that many of you may have removed. I still have some clean up to do, but everything is running great!

Attachment 13302

Attachment 13303

Oddly enough when we plugged that little tree (with vacuum ports), it killed the truck. So we plugged a few of the factory vacuum lines back up (where applicable) and it actually helped the idle settle right down where it should without any adjustments to the carb! When we plugged the remaining two ports, it wanted to stall out. So we left those open.
Attachment 13304

Staying steady just under 3 psi. But, the fittings for this suck! I had to wrap each thread about 3-4 times with thread tape so it wouldn't leak :(
Attachment 13305

My only regret is not going with the electric choke. I'm going to have to order a heavy 'wire' style cable for the manual choke. The one Redline provides will open the choke, but doesn't have the strength to close it back up (when the cable has to push).

Thank you all for your help! I'll try to get a video up shortly of her running...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalowner

Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...:thumbup:

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I switched vacuum ports this morning and didn't notice any difference. In fact, I noticed that the non ported source seemed pull more vacuum than the ported source or the one that I had to remove the screw. That didn't make sense to me...*scratches head*

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ramshorn

Alright, here's the pics I promised..

As I mentioned, I'm still trying to decide where I want to register this truck and that will determine how much 'extra baggage' I can trim from under the hood for emissions testing. For this reason, you will notice a few parts still on the truck that many of you may have removed. I still have some clean up to do, but everything is running great!



Attachment 13302

Attachment 13303

Oddly enough when we plugged that little tree (with vacuum ports), it killed the truck. So we plugged a few of the factory vacuum lines back up (where applicable) and it actually helped the idle settle right down where it should without any adjustments to the carb! When we plugged the remaining two ports, it wanted to stall out. So we left those open.
Attachment 13304

Staying steady just under 3 psi. But, the fittings for this suck! I had to wrap each thread about 3-4 times with thread tape so it wouldn't leak :(
Attachment 13305

My only regret is not going with the electric choke. I'm going to have to order a heavy 'wire' style cable for the manual choke. The one Redline provides will open the choke, but doesn't have the strength to close it back up (when the cable has to push).

Thank you all for your help! I'll try to get a video up shortly of her running...

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Congrats.

You can also go with a DGAV-'automatic' or coolant based choke. DGEV "electric' choke. DGV 'manual' choke.

Your own state emissions laws dictate what you have to have installed. I have to have that junk in place just to make a show for emissions inspection.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalowner

I switched vacuum ports this morning and didn't notice any difference. In fact, I noticed that the non ported source seemed pull more vacuum than the ported source or the one that I had to remove the screw. That didn't make sense to me...*scratches head*

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I had my distributor advance custom tuned during an engine rebuild and the shop that did the work specifically said not to use the manifold vacuum and block it up and I should always use the ported vacuum for these distributors.
You may try taking a timing light and leave the hose connected during the test. No pinching it or disconnecting it.
Start at idle and observe the timing on the pulley with the light. Begin to raise throttle watching the movement of the marks on the pulley. It should remain at the manufactures timing mark until the vacuum reaches it advance point for the distributor. Note the rpms the timing jumps.
Shut down motor, switch vacuum supplies and repeat the test making note of the rpms, vacuum and advance that the timed vacuum advances the distributor.

There is a relation between throttle position and advancing of the distributor with the weber carb and this should be maintained for the carb to perform correctly.


This will also depend on the condition of your distributor and the springs for the counter weights in the distributor.

Are you suppose to use Teflon tape in a fuel related fitting? I just noticed you wrote tape to stop the leaking.
Teflon I don't think is a good idea to stop a fuel leak, might try gasket RTV silicon there instead. Those fittings should be tapered fittings. Be sure the fitting is 100% brass also. There are companies that have placed cheaper metal fittings in kits that are brass plated only. Pretty hard to tell they are plated unless you file a hidden area. Also, unless you bought them separate and they were in the brass fittings area of the store.
It got my attention when you said it leaked, that is why I questioned that part.

do not use teflon tape for fuel fittings, use teflon pipe dope instead. Tape can shread when putting the fitting in and clog the needle and seat or other parts of the carb...don't ask how I know...

Thanks for your feedback on the thread tape! I'm pretty sure the fittings are 100% brass, I got them from Napa and they were twice as expensive as many others. They are not tapered though, and they sold me thread tape for these fitting!?? These fittings have been nothing short of a PITA to find, anybody who has this same set-up have any part #'s for the fittings they used? Maybe I should just call Holley and see what they say? I'll be sure to take them off and replace the tape with teflon pipe dope in the meantime.

Thanks again mates!

those fittings are metric and will not be tapered. The pipe dope will seal them - they need pipe dope to seal.

i plugged that extra coolent line cuz i couldnt find a place for it to go...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by originalowner

Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...:thumbup:

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I was looking through your pictures since I'm doing the same swap right now, and I think you might still have it hooked up wrong?

Attachment 13648

It looks like you're going from the carb, to the red nipple. I'm not sure what that is, but it isn't the vacuum advance on the distributor (green).

that thing at the red arrow is the egr valve - it is not the place to hook ported vacuum to.

Someone who was helping me with the carb instal hooked that up, claiming it helped bring the idle down to 'normal'. I left it hooked up because I was dealing with emissions over the past couple weeks and wanted to everything to appear as if it was hooked up. Now I have that line spliced, going from the carb to the egr and distributer.

I know I can eliminate the EGR now but, I'm sill not sure why the truck ran so well without the line going to the distributer though? Any ideas?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ramshorn

I'm sill not sure why the truck ran so well without the line going to the distributer though? Any ideas?

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Because vacuum advance is only active during low throttle/high vacuum periods, typically while cruising down the highway. It helps the engine burn a little cleaner, and get a bit better mileage.

I can type a couple more paragraphs on how timing is used, if you're interested.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88MightyMax

Because vacuum advance is only active during low throttle/high vacuum periods, typically while cruising down the highway. It helps the engine burn a little cleaner, and get a bit better mileage.

I can type a couple more paragraphs on how timing is used, if you're interested.

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Thanks for the info 88MM!

Spark advance is needed to keep the engine burn times in sync with the RPM. The faster the RPM or higher the compression the sooner the spark needs to ignite the fuel. With out advance you won't go very far very fast. Take my engine for an example. It wont run with out 12 degree of initial advance and 38 overall because of the higher compression. The advance port is only exposed to manifold vacuum after the throttle plate is opened, or off it's seat. That is why you see the advance port about 1/4 of the way up the carb. If you want to totally understand carb theory and how they work I would make a quick look through the manual section and then into the UTI training manuals. Then you will understand the hole concept about the carb and how it meters fuel delivery.

I'm getting ready to do this swap to the Weber. Reading the instruction it seemed simple. Reading this thread, it seems as confusing as it can be; thought when done we are supposed to end up with 1 gas line going to it, one vacuum line for the distributor, and one for the crankcase breather, blocking off everything else from the stock setup!
This thread seems to be detailing there is a heck of a lot more "mods" and "work-arounds" than a clean straight install! Now considering just getting a new Summit rebuilt stock carb and slapping it on.

I know this thread is somewhat old but I could really use some help on a couple questions
1. This is one of the three fuel lines coming off the mech pump....what am I to do with this? (mech pump will have to stay until I can afford a elect one.
2. Is it okay for these two ports to be capped off?
3. This tree of vacuum ports, can it be removed and a bolt put it block this off?
Attachment 18951
4. This is the other fuel line. I imagine one is a return line but what is the other? and can they both be capped?
5. This line I capped off because I seen that done on another thread somewhere and it goes to a manifold that has something to do with cooling
Attachment 18952
6. I have not seen on any other thread what is supposed to go to this port on the carb and the instructions make no mention of it....wth!
Attachment 18953

Isn't #6 the fuel inlet port?

Read on another thread almost everything can be removed except the vacuum advance line, the fuel input port line, and the choke wire. Install an electric fuel pump (fuel pressure of 3 psi should be the max for the Weber,) and then the mechanical fuel pump can be removed and a block-off plate installed in its place. Put a fuel filter just before the carburetor. I put mine right after the fuel filter at the tank.
Removed lines and piping should be blocked off at the source. If you have strict pollution control regs and inspections this might all be a problem.

Hate to tell you this, but that carb is a knockoff weber - it will never work right. Before you try to run it, return it and get your money back. Those carbs are not worth a nickel - and don't let them tell you that it is a weber - if it has a black choke cover and the weber emblem is a sticker, or if it is an empi, its a knockoff. Webercarbsdirect is notorious for passing these off as webers - they are junk.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ramrod.50

I know this thread is somewhat old but I could really use some help on a couple questions
1. This is one of the three fuel lines coming off the mech pump....what am I to do with this? (mech pump will have to stay until I can afford a elect one.

Hook it up to the fuel return line back to the tank.

2. Is it okay for these two ports to be capped off?

You only need the vacuum line to the distributor - all other lines are superfluous.

3. This tree of vacuum ports, can it be removed and a bolt put it block this off?

Yep, unscrew it and install a grub screw or a bung of some sort.

Attachment 18951
4. This is the other fuel line. I imagine one is a return line but what is the other? and can they both be capped?

On the Mikuni carb there is a secondary fuel line that goes to the accelerator pump on the side of the carb and another line that goes back out to the fuel return. This secondary line from the fuel pump is connected directly to the fuel return.

5. This line I capped off because I seen that done on another thread somewhere and it goes to a manifold that has something to do with cooling

Bingo. If you want to make your manifold dedicated to the Weber install you can remove the coolant barb on the manifold and use a single barb, then thread the coolant port with an M6 tap and seal a grub screw into the port to block it off.

Attachment 18952
6. I have not seen on any other thread what is supposed to go to this port on the carb and the instructions make no mention of it....wth!

That is the fuel bowl vent - hook this up to the vapour cannister that feeds back to the tank.

Attachment 18953

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The factory fuel pump will over pressurise the Weber carb and cause flooding and generally make the engine run poorly. Adding a regulator to the mechanical pump will cause the pump to die prematurely so you will need to install a low pressure high flow pump. And if the Weber carb you have bought doesn't have the Weber logo cast into the body of the carb or on the external pump covers, it's a fake. Sorry to see yet another victim. The problem with the 'licensed' copies are from the way they are manufactured. The internal fuel metering galleries aren't jetted and can't be changed due to them being integrally milled into the alloy casting. Doesn't matter what you do to the main jets, it will either run lean or rich...

Awesome! Have it all hooked up now. I have heard that carter pumps are the way to go, any other recommendations. I knew this damn thing was a knockoff when I opened it, webercarbdirect bs. Where is a trusted vendor for the real thing/where have you guys bought yours?

The Carter pump is good but it is bulky and noisy (and can be expensive if you don't shop around). Here is my recommendation for an alternative pump - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post55194

If you want a real Weber here is another link - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27961

This post should be mandatory reading for anyone who is after a genuine Weber carb and members should direct the newbies straight to it. It saves a lot of grief, cash and confusion. Even buying a used Weber and rekitting it will always be a better option than buying a 'licensed' copy.

Yup, the "new" Webers are Made In China crap.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Hate to tell you this, but that carb is a knockoff weber - it will never work right. Before you try to run it, return it and get your money back. Those carbs are not worth a nickel - and don't let them tell you that it is a weber - if it has a black choke cover and the weber emblem is a sticker, or if it is an empi, its a knockoff. Webercarbsdirect is notorious for passing these off as webers - they are junk.

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The only license they bought is the name - the carbs are a poor copy. The adaptors may be ok, but that is way too much for just adaptors.