1992 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Build AKA Mighty Ruckus Carrier!

Recently I pick up a 92 Mitsubishi Mighty Max ,with the 2.4l and automatic transmission, for $500. I bought it not running and trailered it to my shop to begin the build / get it running. I was told that the crank timing sprocket was worn out, keyway wore a notch, and it just needed a new gear and it was good to go. Well lets just say I found a little more than just that wrong. Pics Below are when I got it and what I was told was wrong with the new part! Also Posted is what the truck will be transporting! (warning pic heavy!!)Attachment 12655Attachment 12656Attachment 12657Attachment 12658Attachment 12659

Here is Progress on day one (Currently on day 4 or 3...I'll just say 3..but I finally have time to get the thread going) got the Illusive crank timing sprocket in at the dealership and finally have it installed in the truck and retimed the engine. Got the truck started after a quick shot of starting fluid in the intake. It runs ok but it runs very very rich and all 4 spark plugs are black and smell like gas pics below, also found a leaking water pump! Attachment 12663Attachment 12664

Picked up a lot of parts and my amazon order came in! Full tune-up (wires, plugs, fuel filter, coil, rotor, water pump, rad hoses), and tail light assemblies. All that got done today was Removed old water pump, removed and install new plugs, wires, and coil. On day 3 New water pump installed, upper and lower rad hoses installed, tps checked and reading properly, retimed engine (again lol), new battery installed. Got the vehicle running but still running rich. Pulled ecu and opened it up and found this. (see last pics) Going to have to see if I can repair this and clean the board up quite a bit! Attachment 12665Attachment 12666Attachment 12667Attachment 12668Attachment 12669Attachment 12670Attachment 12671

Progress on day 2: on day 2 removed water pump, installed new coil, wires, plugs, rotor, and tail light assemblies. Progress day 3: Installed new water pump, radiator hoses, retimed engine (again lol), checked tps signal, installed new battery and got the truck to run but still running the same as before (super rich) so I pulled the ECU and found this pics below. looks like its time to rebuild the ECU ECU. Attachment 12672Attachment 12673

Here is how it sits right now as I clean the ECU either tomorrow or this weekend! Attachment 12674Attachment 12675Attachment 12676

I like those little bikes......their cool.

Your truck is exactly like mine...............curious what you mean about cleaning of the ECU?

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Originally Posted by mitchi

I like those little bikes......their cool.

Your truck is exactly like mine...............curious what you mean about cleaning of the ECU?

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I meant repair the ECU. On the underside of the board there is a point where the copper pathway is broken and on the top side it looks like a cap might be leaking slowly and there is a decent amount of corrosion on it that needs to be taken care of. So I guess that's where the cleaning comes in since who knows what else has a broken connection....LOL. Need to see If I can save it of not. I believe that is why I'm running so rich!

Looks like decent progress this far. Good find on the price also.

Thank you! Good news about the ECU to by the way. The electronics guy at my work is fixing it for me! Will have updates tomorrow or later tonight.

RUCKLIFE!!!! TotalRuckus Much? I had to rid myself of my Ruckus. Local Law enforcement kept asking how a 50cc bike could run 62mph. PWJDM Stretch Kit and a 150cc motor doesnt look that big........ Welcome to the forum and Be Warned, These trucks are more additive that the Ruck's!!!

Those plug wires 8 or 9 mm? They look huge...I'm wondering when the plug wire companies are going to stop making bigger and bigger wires. I remember the good ole days when they were 3-4mm and oh my god they worked too, lol. Marketing is everything nowadays.

Great catch on the ECU, Never would of found it if you didn't look. Great job on details. Use to have a girlfriend that was a Ruckus, Them Italians are something else.

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Originally Posted by MIHIFISI

RUCKLIFE!!!! TotalRuckus Much? I had to rid myself of my Ruckus. Local Law enforcement kept asking how a 50cc bike could run 62mph. PWJDM Stretch Kit and a 150cc motor doesnt look that big........ Welcome to the forum and Be Warned, These trucks are more additive that the Ruck's!!!

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Haha yeppp and luckily mine is still a 50cc right now but it will do 50 no problem and I am building a 150cc ruck as well so we will see how that goes. Glad to be apart of the forum! TotalRuckus and my rucks are getting jealous of the Mighty Max!

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Those plug wires 8 or 9 mm? They look huge...I'm wondering when the plug wire companies are going to stop making bigger and bigger wires. I remember the good ole days when they were 3-4mm and oh my god they worked too, lol. Marketing is everything nowadays.

Great catch on the ECU, Never would of found it if you didn't look. Great job on details. Use to have a girlfriend that was a Ruckus, Them Italians are something else.

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8mm I believe, they are pretty big and I've asked myself the same thing lol. The only reason I looked at the ECU was from looking on the forum and seeing that they cause issues. Otherwise I probably would of never looked there....So thanks you guys!!!

Well good news on the ECU!! I tested it after cleaning/ repair and it works!! The vehicle is running but before I put the ECU back in for good I need to re seal it and get rid of those rubycon capacitors! Posted below are before and after pics! (in order)
Attachment 12680Attachment 12681Attachment 12682Attachment 12683

On a side note, anyone know the specs for the 3 rubycon capacitors?

there should be values on the sides of each capacitor that tell you what they are - for example 1000uF at 20 VDC. Just get those numbers and google them to buy them - highly unlikely RadioShak will have them. Try Digi-key or Great Plains electronics once you know what you need.

C103: 22uF @ 5V
C104: 47uF @ 5V
C105: 100uF @ 16V

According to the rebuilt ECU in my lap.

Yeah it's slow as hell at work today.

and you just happened to have your ECU at work today - or was it bring your ECU to work day?!?

I have random MItsubishi parts everywhere. You know those crazy cat ladies? I'm like that, except for truck and BMW parts.

Attachment 12685

These boxes contain most of a blue Sport interior that arrived today. :))

And I am like that with 1st gen parts - if I ever get the parts I have installed, the upstairs of my garage would be 1/4 to 1/2 empty...

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Originally Posted by noahwins

C103: 22uF @ 5V
C104: 47uF @ 5V
C105: 100uF @ 16V

According to the rebuilt ECU in my lap.

Yeah it's slow as hell at work today.

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Is that for a 4g64 ECU or is that for all ECU's?

I am getting ford parts like that delivered. I'm just starting to think about that I have to install all this stuff too! :shock:

You know we have a Thread all about the ECU and how to repair it here.


OK, I found the documents for the computers. Here

repair Mitsubishi ECMs
Attachment 12686

its fun to get the parts - quite another to get them all installed...

Well I pulled the capacitors and C104 says 47uF @ 50v (in red) and C105 is 100uF @ 16v (in blue) C104 is that supposed to say 50v or does that mean 5v? pics below as well. The caps we definitely leaking! one even lost its leg!
Attachment 12689Attachment 12690Attachment 12691Attachment 12692

go with what you find in there - the voltage and uF rating can be higher if it fits, but neither can be smaller. Not a suprize with Rubycon caps - they used the same ones in many coin op games in the same timeframe.

Smart man. Check my sig. ;)

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Smart man. Check my sig. ;)

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Hahaha well you were right about C105 though and half right on C104! But your info was super helpful. Thanks man!!

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

go with what you find in there - the voltage and uF rating can be higher if it fits, but neither can be smaller. Not a suprize with Rubycon caps - they used the same ones in many coin op games in the same timeframe.

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Awesome, Thanks for the info on that! I didnt know I could do that!

For best results get as close as you can on the uF rating - voltage can be higher. The uF rating tunes the circuit, so that needs to be close and preferably exact.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

For best results get as close as you can on the uF rating - voltage can be higher. The uF rating tunes the circuit, so that needs to be close and preferably exact.

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Ok, I'll definiently make sure I get the same uF rating. I hope they have it at radioshack lol, thats the only place i know of by me that sells electronic components! Thanks man!

<--- Blind as a bat.

This fix is satisfying as hell. When you start it up the truck just -- works.

Nice to see someone actually taking a plunge into a ECU. Not that I can.
Are these the one you need.
http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev47m...s#.VLns4TDogg8

http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev100...l#.VLntGDDogg8
I hope it helps?

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Originally Posted by Rickdees

Nice to see someone actually taking a plunge into a ECU. Not that I can.
Are these the one you need.
http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev47m...s#.VLns4TDogg8

http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev100...l#.VLntGDDogg8
I hope it helps?

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Yes,those are the exact ones!! Thank you! Do not a lot of people dive into the ECU's?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noahwins

<--- Blind as a bat.

This fix is satisfying as hell. When you start it up the truck just -- works.

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I noticed that when I out it back in before i went to replace the caps. Truck just started!

You can check Fry's electronics also

Many of us just have the ECU as a paper weight now. Especially smog exempt trucks with weber carbs or a header. Or they been switched out for an engine change

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Originally Posted by BradMph

You can check Fry's electronics also

Many of us just have the ECU as a paper weight now. Especially smog exempt trucks with weber carbs or a header. Or they been switched out for an engine change

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Oh I didnt know the ECU's were that big of an issue, maybe I should start rebuilding them and sell them on the cheap side.

Progress accomplished today so far:

Put the truck back together (timing, timing cover, fan, belts, etc) and I picked up/ installed the new capacitors that I got from micro center right down the road from my work and shop! same exact specs to. Now im just letting the ECU dry before I hummi-seal it. Also the de-soldering tool I got from radio shack is awesome, has a heated tip that melts the solder and sucks it up! made the job very easy. More updates coming later today!
Attachment 12701Attachment 12702Attachment 12703Attachment 12704Attachment 12705Attachment 12706

Update: Ecu is now back in and it works!! The truck now runs way smoother and has no misfires any more but its hard to start and once started the idle shoots way up and stays high. Sounds like its getting to much air or something is out of wack sensor wise. Any idea on what It could be that is causing that? any common known issues that cause that? I went ahead a bought a new pcv and coolant temp sensor, will install and see what happens today or tomorrow. Any other info is greatly appreciated!!

P.S. Truck looks good outside and it drives well minus the issue stated above.
Attachment 12720Attachment 12721Attachment 12722

Great!

There are two coolant temp sensors, the 2 prong one that goes to the ECU and the single prong one that goes to the gauge. If that doesn't work, check for vacuum leaks and test the MAF and TPS with a multimeter. I don't remember the resistances but they're in the Manuals forum somewhere. The pdf of the Haynes manual has them I think.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Great!

There are two coolant temp sensors, the 2 prong one that goes to the ECU and the single prong one that goes to the gauge. If that doesn't work, check for vacuum leaks and test the MAF and TPS with a multimeter. I don't remember the resistances but they're in the Manuals forum somewhere. The pdf of the Haynes manual has them I think.

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Awesome! I got the one that goes to the Ecu and ok Ill look up the specs and test them tomorrow! Im hoping its just the coolant temp sensor...I hear MAF and TPS sensors are expensive...

Two things to remember, 1. After disconnection, your ecu needs to run at idle for a while so it can run its tests and make its adjustments, especially if maintenance has been done. 2. There is an idle control that should be adjusted after maintenance. Easiest to set if you know someone with the old obd1 scan tools.

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Originally Posted by lush90

Two things to remember, 1. After disconnection, your ecu needs to run at idle for a while so it can run its tests and make its adjustments, especially if maintenance has been done. 2. There is an idle control that should be adjusted after maintenance. Easiest to set if you know someone with the old obd1 scan tools.

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Ok I'll do that, also do you know where I can find an obd1 scan tool?

You can use a voltmeter or DroppedMitsu's Radio Shack buzzer. It's in the wiki. OBD1 is crude, you count pulses the ECU sends out and then look up the numbers in a table.

Update: Found my idle issue...adjustment screw was all the way in (hur-dur!!) Also replaced the the 2 prong coolant temp sensor, replaced fuel filter, Checked tps (5.4k ohms), maf is good, no vacuum leaks, and put 5 gal of fresh gas in it. Here comes the not so good news, truck is still hard to start when cold but once warm. It runs fine like it was new, Kinda stumped on this, going to check plug gaps tomorrow or later in the week. Kinda learning towards o2 sensor but what else could cause this issue? any insight would be tremendous!

Your going to have a nice truck pretty soon.
Check to be sure you are using the 3rd wire for the starter. I had similar issues and it was low voltage during the initial startup. Hard when cold to start and flooded easy and easier to start when warm. I fixed my 3rd wire by connecting it up the way it was suppose to be and installed a diode and it cranks a hell of alot faster and instantly starts up like it use to. Had that starting issue for friggin years when an autoparts clerk said I didn't need the 3rd wire on starter. Worked fine for a long time then it acted up. Found the wire taped up and reconnected it during a rebuild.

Weak battery or bad ground for the starter?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Your going to have a nice truck pretty soon.
Check to be sure you are using the 3rd wire for the starter. I had similar issues and it was low voltage during the initial startup. Hard when cold to start and flooded easy and easier to start when warm. I fixed my 3rd wire by connecting it up the way it was suppose to be and installed a diode and it cranks a hell of alot faster and instantly starts up like it use to. Had that starting issue for friggin years when an autoparts clerk said I didn't need the 3rd wire on starter. Worked fine for a long time then it acted up. Found the wire taped up and reconnected it during a rebuild.

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I will check for that wire and see what all is going on there and make sure the grounds and everything to the starter are correct. Also going to check ignition timing to make sure its ok and in spec.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noahwins

Weak battery or bad ground for the starter?

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Battery is brand new and starter ground seems to be ok.

In one word " SEAFOAM" TallBlackGuy this is amazing stuff!!!!

Update: Truck is fixed and running well! Previous owner had the ignition timing way out of wack. Reset that and the truck is running excellent. Now on to saving money for the drop!

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Originally Posted by MIHIFISI

In one word " SEAFOAM" TallBlackGuy this is amazing stuff!!!!

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I have 3 cans of that stuff and I'm definitely going to use it! I LOVE SEAFOAM!!

here is a link to a lowering kit for a good price http://www.thesuspensionsource.com/t...-5-f-3-r-drop/

[QUOTE=Rahtid;37758]here is a link to a lowering kit for a good price http://www.thesuspensionsource.com/t...op/&#91;/QUOTE]
Good find on price! Do you know where I can get drop spindles besides from amazon?

Chassistech - they are on ebay, or their parent company - AIM Industries.