Need some input on steering linkage. I've got my 360 all ready to go in except for my steering hitting my oil pan. What have other people done? I have pictures but I'm not sure how to add them
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Need some input on steering linkage. I've got my 360 all ready to go in except for my steering hitting my oil pan. What have other people done? I have pictures but I'm not sure how to add them
Here's a pic of the center link hitting. I either need to find a way to lower the center link or I'm going to try modifying my oil pan
Lowering the centre drag link would be a huge job as the rest of the steering assembly would need extensive work. I'd be either getting a trick custom sump made up or turn your sump into a custom unit with the BFH-2000 :hammer:
..or maybe raise the engine by spacing up the engine mounts?
I would modify the oil pan, seems like the easiest and quickest way to solve the problem. The motor will probably stick up way too high if he didnt drop it all the way down.
Raising the engine won't do any good and my engine wouldn't clear the hood then. I need to be able to move the engine back an inch or 2 to get it closer to the fire wall. I'm thinking about taking a peice of exhaust pipe and cutting it in half length wise and welding it in behind the steering linkage. That way I can keep my stock sump location.
Is the steering linkage 'pinned' by the sump or is it just dragging hard against it? I wouldn't have thought raising the engine 1/2" or so would've been that radical of change. You might get away with a combination of both - a little persuasion with the hammer on the sump and some thin shims under the engine mounts. Anything that works :)
I need the engine to sit closer to the firewall. I still have 2-3 inches between the firewall and the block but the back of the pan is hitting the center link
I need to move the engine closer to the firewall but the pan can't move back any further
I think you need the 4x4 pan like this http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...iew/make/dodge
Finally getting the engine in
What did you do to resolve your problem? That's bad ass, I thinking about going that direction in the future.
I took the oil pan off and made the engine mounts. Once the engine was in and where I needed it, I made the cuts that I needed on the oil pan. Ill get pictures when I make the new cross member
Awesome! I'm really tempted to do this but I still wanna daily it lol
What trans are you using?
^second that question. I have had no luck looking around for the trans fitment and have only heard about massive amounts of fab work to firewall and tunnel. What cross-member are you planning on using? From what? is it possible to not cut factory? I have had few Gm small blocks with a couple different trans (from different projects) and loosely measured them and it looked damn tough and a whole lot of body fab to shove motor/trans into.
im just using a 904. I had a 727 but it was too big for the trans tunnel. I had to do a little bit of modifying to the tunnel but nothing too bad. im using the stock trans cross member with a modified mount mopar mount.
*did you know that Mitsubishi used T904 transmissions? They were in the Mitsubishi built Dodge Challenger/Plymouth Sapporo equivalent here in Australia (Scorpion). I used a complete drivetrain from a wrecked Scorpion in a Galant wagon I owned waaay back :) And now, back to the thread (yep I'm done with my thread hijack, sorry about that)
the 904 they used was actually a "baby" 904 built by aisin/warner (of borg-warner fame) under license from chrysler and not a real 904...
...touche! And I learned something in the process. Good stuff pennyman! :thumbup: (I thought the Australian built Scorpions were made from the sweepings off the Chrysler factory floor - don't tell anyone :shhh:)
I'm far from being done but its at least getting closer! I need to pull the engine and trans back out to finish welding in the cross member and finish the oil pan. The steering clears with no problem. I still need to get to get a balanced flex plate, torque converter, headers, and a shifter.
Sweet! Im lovin it! and going to steal your design somewhat to modify my crossmember lol
Too late Geezer, I spotted your post and telling everyone now, hehehehe....:rolling: jk
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
...is there a smilicon with the 'facepalm of epicness'? Anyhoo, that is one tough looking cross member sub chassis you've made there moparman! If that doesn't hold the beast together, nothing will :clap:
it should hold up just fine :) The only thing i can find to take care of my torque converter issue is a balanced flex plate with a zero balance torque converter. I need to buy a few parts so my project is slightly on hold until after my wedding in november.
A manual 360 front balancer might work for you cause my 360 has a regular flywheel and a different front damper from my auto 360 that I swapped over when I put it in my manual truck
Either that or get a 318 or 340 with internal balance or take your 360 apart and get it balanced and never deal with it again
Engine is back out so I can finish welding everything
Does anybody know what's been done with radiators or water pumps for this conversion?
Have you seen the YouTube video?
http://youtu.be/OPDYpGCxZBg found it!
It looks pretty BA! Doesn't really show me the radiator tho. I'm going to try using the one from my d100 tomorrow! I gave in and got hood pins... I really wanted to keep the outside stock/beater looking :p
I paused it and took a screenshot I'll post asap I'm on my moms iPad now I only have phone and computers lol but it looks like he used a different rad set forward of where the stock one is Chevy style with side tanks not top and bottom and has the stock water pump and pulley with electric fan mounted in front of the rad
I got a radiator that fits and I got it mounted in! Does it look like its got a 360 settin in it?
Looks really good! and definately a sleeper!!!! to maxamize it i would put in some electric cutouts just past the headers for racing and a super quiet system the rest of the time or maybe a cutout just past a pair of glasspacks and then quiet through a second set of mufflers idk just ideas so you can go prey on some vettes lol
98% of the wiring is done! It cranks but I need to hook up an ignition relay and finish hooking everything else up
Anybody know what size the holes are for the egr/pollution ports? I'm going to be using different manifolds or headers and I'll need to plug the holes. I keep forgetting to measure them while I'm at work.
I have done this conversion numerous times . I just notch out the oil pan . Works great. Also have put in a 2" pipe , the problem with that is you have to drop and pull the drag link out to pull motor. Some 5.9 oil pans have the drain plug in the front towards the front of the motor . Thats the pan to notch!