My 1984 D50 4X4 Turbo Diesel Build/Modify/Correct

Hello, New to this forum, but been on the site a lot looking for help on problems. Sorry for the length of this first post.

I have a 1984 Dodge D50 4X4 TD. Was in ok shape when I got it a year ago. A lot of little things needed attention and slowly I have been addressing the issues one by one. It's about time to do some serious upgrades/fixes and looking for a little bit of advice or guidance. First here is a list of the item I have done.

New head gasket
New water pump & thermostat
New/rebuilt radiator to replace incorrect radiator that was taken out by a fan as it tried to make an escape from my engine bay
New/used fan assembly
New power steering pump
installed/mfg new front battery box for dual batteries
Cleaned and fixed heater core

Truck has a little bit of rust but nothing too big. It is my daily driver and is so for its fuel economy (mostly 28 MPG). I have a 28 mile one way commute, so that works out nicely.
Here is what I am trying to do. Improve the truck, get a little more power. Torque really. I would like to be able to pull a small trailer if necessary. I am not trying to go crazy with this thing, just make it a good solid workhorse.
Plans for upgrade.
1 intercooler
2 2.5” exhaust
3 new 30x9.5x15 tires & wheels
4 deal with a very squeaky front end
5 possible body lift
Not to mention some more creature comfort upgrades
A problem came up today that has most of the above now in play. I went to install the said tire/wheel combo and my local shop would not due it because of tire rubbing issues. Ok, thanks, thought that might be a problem. Drive away and the truck is all of the sudden MUCH loader. They put it on the lift and I think I find the leaky exhaust problem. I take it to a muffler shop, and outside of a couple of old weak spots on the muffler, they cannot find the source of the problem. It is louder, a lot louder, especially in the cab. I am convinced the muffler system needs to be upgraded. Can I go to a true 2.5” from turbo back? Or does it even matter? I know there is some restriction from the turbo outlet size.
Question 2, does the common 3” body lift for sale out there for the 87’+ D50 work on the older 82-86 body style?

Thanks in advance.
TreeFarmer

as for as the sound in the cab goes, it could be your intake/exhaust gasket.... mine is fairly loud in the cab & im 90% sure its the manifold gaskets as there is black residue around the intake/exhaust manifolds, So check for black residue around there and i know on the rangers with a 4d55, the down pipe can crack on the block side where it is hard to see... i pulled mine off as it was almost split in half, took it to a shop, got them to weld it back up, then i sanded and used some flameproof paint and shined it up! Its quieter now, but i still need to fix the manifold gaskets.

As far as body lift fitment, i would not know as i have a ranger and it came with a body lift, i just need to install it.... all the other mods sound great, another thing you can do is upgrade to a 4d56 head that flows a little better! I know my local delica/mitsu mechanic has brand new 4d56 heads, complete with everything, for $950+ tax. & they are pretty much a direct bolt on. As far as i know, you need the early style head with recessed valves.... someone correct me if i am wrong! :)

oh, & by the way, your text is black and i cannot see it on the back ground, i had to highlight your whole paragraph to read it lol.

The 4d55 used a protruding valve design. $950 is steep they are $550 on ebay new

Mike

oh really? i figured they had recessed.... i just guessed as there is an early style, and later style... I assumed we needed the early style for our engines since it was before the 4d56. It was just my guess. Yes i realize it is fairly steep, but they are quality ones from either UK or Japan, cant remember, & come with valves, roller rockers, camshaft n whatnot.... by the time i would pay shipping to Canada on one for 550( i assume around 200 to ship it...), it would be comparable, but i would rather deal locally that way if i have any issues i dont have to worry about contacting an ebay seller.... plus you know its quality vs cheap chineise shit. Plus if you got cash he can usually barter a bit. :)

BTW, post up some photos of your ride! :)

The heads on ebay are from uk. The Japanese 4d56 heads are 750.00 . I have proven it myself along with many others that the chinese 4d55 parts are a disaster waiting to happen!

Mike

Sorry for the first post wrong font. Was having an issue typing on this forum so I went to Word and then copied the text over. Lesson learned, review post first!

Here is a pic of my ride as it is today. Nothing pretty to look at.

Body Lift? Can the #3023 kit be put on the older body style or at least adapted?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PA-3-Body-Li...4d8e96&vxp=mtr

Thanks Again

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Nothing pretty to look at.

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I disagree: it's a strong survivor with a spirited stance. And a lotta good potential.

She needs to be restored. I would not look at adding a body lift or anything to take it away from stock. It creates nothing but headaches. I only speak from experience. I know you have big plans for it and want to take it mudding, but keep it stock and restore it.

Sorry, no, you have me wrong... No mudding!

I only want to put to 30x9.5x5 tires because that is what will get my speedo correct. I know I can do a gearing change, but the slightly larger tires also look pretty cool.

How about the exhaust question. If I go to a larger 2.5" exhaust, is it best to start with the lager diameter right out of the turbo? One local muffler shop wanted to spice in on the down pipe. I thought that sounded like a half a$$ option.

also Moderator can you please fix my first post. Bugs the heck out of me and I do not have permission to fix it.

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Originally Posted by TreeFarmer

Sorry, no, you have me wrong... No mudding!

I only want to put to 30x9.5x5 tires because that is what will get my speedo correct. I know I can do a gearing change, but the slightly larger tires also look pretty cool.

How about the exhaust question. If I go to a larger 2.5" exhaust, is it best to start with the lager diameter right out of the turbo? One local muffler shop wanted to spice in on the down pipe. I thought that sounded like a half a$$ option.

also Moderator can you please fix my first post. Bugs the heck out of me and I do not have permission to fix it.

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I am a little confused about what you are saying because 27.5" tires should be the correct size for your truck. To correct your speedo you should go with 215/75/15's. If it has the original 3.90 gears, which I am willing to bet it does, you need to go with the smaller tire.

Yes, as you should be. My speedo is off.... Don't know how or why, but alas it is. I have the stock size tires now. As far as I know there are 3 ways to fix it.

First is the speedo itself taken to a specialty shop.

Second is a gearing change down on the engine

Third is to change the tire size.

I would like to go the tire route to fix the problem for multiple reasons.

Tom

It could be the speedo gear failed at one time and the previos owner replaced the speedo gear with one from a later model Ram 50 or Montero.

the speedo gear change was in 1985 when they went from 85 mph speedos to 120 mph speedos -gears are different. found it out the hard way - the tranny failed in my 85 ram 50 and I got a tranny from an 84 - the shop working on it scrapped the old tranny - drove the truck down the road at 55 and wondered why I was blowing by everything on the road - the speedo was 15 mph off low.

That does kind of explain a few things. Mine is running fast though. Alas, not a real problem, just annoying.

Back to the exhaust question. What/where is the best place to start an exhaust size up to a 2.5" system? Directly from the turbo connection or on the down pipe?

tanks
Tom

Down pipe is fine as getting it right behind the turbo won't make a difference. Unless you could replace the turbo adapter which won't happen.

pull the down pipe off and take it to a shop get them to cut it and weld 2.5" as close to the collector/adapter as possible & shape it the same! :) or get one made which would be expensive i imagine?

I Agree with Cyote...The closer and more uniform the bends etc as to the turbo outlet the better the flow and scavenging. You may even want to get someone (Corky Bell does a GREAT job on this and is reasonable read cheap for what he does) to port the turbine (exhaust) housing of the turbo. This will help the power, mpg's, torque, (especially lag reduction at boost initial spool up),make it safer as the waste gate will operate smoother (less turbulence), and lower EGT's as exhaust gets away from turbine and down pipe faster and with less turbulence. Try and run the exhaust as straight as possible, for less backpressure, lower EGT's, faster spooling, less delay on boost(lag), and higher boost pressures.
ALL good things!

Ok, I'm looking at upgrading my exhaust, so tell me more about the coupling point. Could I put a 3" exhaust on ? If not, why so ? I haven't looked to closely at the turbo and the exhaust yet.

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Originally Posted by 4D55 Performance

I am a little confused about what you are saying because 27.5" tires should be the correct size for your truck. To correct your speedo you should go with 215/75/15's. If it has the original 3.90 gears, which I am willing to bet it does, you need to go with the smaller tire.

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Hello, anybody know the original tire size for 1986 Power Ram 50 ? I have 215/75/15 when speedometer reads 30MPH actual speed is 26MPH Thanks

Factory size should be a 225/75/15, so you are a little off on size, but that seems like a big difference for that small of a difference

It's more than likely it's inaccurate from factory. A lot of vehicles aren't accurate when it comes to the readings, including top end cars like Porsche (they're been known to 'exaggerate' their top speed by fudging the speedometer...)

GR78-15 was the original size for the Power Ram 4x4s - about a 225 / 235 75-15.

Thanks guys for the tire size info; there is no tire size label on driver's door sill, only wheel size (15-6JJ) GVWR VIN... Unfortunately, I did not keep all the original papers & maintenance records for this truck... Opps..? I have the original 1986 owners manual in glove box, will look... It had some sort of RV or trailer looking type tires when we got it from the govt auction...

1986 Owners Manual ~ G78/15 for the 4x4 truck (on page 91)

For future tires:
1) try to find tires that most resemble original equipment

Desired tire qualities:
1) low rolling resistant
2) low noise

My truck is getting 14MPG city ~ carb cleaner squirted into carb & new ignition coil ~ nothing else checked yet~ still lacks power & misses...

ALOHA 2U All

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xboxrox

Thanks guys for the tire size info; there is no tire size label on driver's door sill, only wheel size (15-6JJ) GVWR VIN... Unfortunately, I did not keep all the original papers & maintenance records for this truck... Opps..? I have the original 1986 owners manual in glove box, will look... It had some sort of RV or trailer looking type tires when we got it from the govt auction...

1986 Owners Manual ~ G78/15 for the 4x4 truck (on page 91)

For future tires:
1) try to find tires that most resemble original equipment

Desired tire qualities:
1) low rolling resistant
2) low noise

My truck is getting 14MPG city ~ carb cleaner squirted into carb & new ignition coil ~ nothing else checked yet~ still lacks power & misses...

ALOHA 2U All

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I would recommend opening a new thread in the gas section for your generation truck. Then we can go over any other issues you might have. Currently you are thread jacking in a diesel section, which does not have a carb lol

I apologize to treefarmer and everyone else for my thread jacking ~

I like his truck, especially the color~