always been a ford man until just recently.came across an 85 mm with a 2.0 g63b for $400. had to have it,but got somes issues,big and small. new to whole mitubishi scene altogether,so any help would be greatly appreciated.
always been a ford man until just recently.came across an 85 mm with a 2.0 g63b for $400. had to have it,but got somes issues,big and small. new to whole mitubishi scene altogether,so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Pull that sucker out and drop in a Ford 2.3L Turbo/T5 out of a T-Bird Turbo or Cougar XR7 :layrubber:
Welcome, any questions you have just ask.
im was thinking switch up to fuelinjection,but looking at cost i can switch up to small block v8 about the same
well you can find a wrecked 87 up Ford Fox body and rip out everything and have an efi V8 but you'll need a hood scoop to clear the upper intake. If you find a wrecked 84-86 they came with a throttle body EFI in the auto's
It's not always about how big the motor is. Lol.
ha,i spotted a complete 318 and transmission at the local pull a part.i can get both for around $300 and its carburetated.still pondering the possibilities
seems the only problem with my engine is the carb. a reman runs $400-$500,but i can drop a new weber on for $236.s0 $236=running 4banger or $300 = v8 with the headache of the swap.hmmm decisions,decisions....
The 302/AOD swap in mine took about 3 weeks originally and drove the wheels off it for 5 years. As for EFI I'm going to be dropping on a MSD Atomic EFI system. Granted its $2400cdn but that about average for the aftermarket systems to replace the 4bbl carb.
so what sensors and what nots are actually needed for efi conversion? is the computer and wire harness needed or can the sensors be hard wired to the ignition?
i mean,say if i wanted to snatch up a manifold with the fuel injection from say a 1992 mighty max,would i need the whole wiring harness and computer,and i suppose high pressure electric fuel pump? never converted from carb to efi before so im open to any and all advice or input here.and Fordibishi,saw your pics and thats an awesome set up.
Basically you need the whole harness, Computer and misc bits. High pressure external fuel pump, O2, and a few other things. You can set it up to be a stand alone system to just run the engine and fuel pump after you strip the harness down to basic's you are left with a 3 wire hook up for power.
You would need the engine harness and ECU, both are pretty easy to pull. then you need intake with all sensors/injectors, MAF(air sensor) sensor, o2 sensor, anything else connected to the engine harness. Might be a thing or two more im forgetting
DOn't the dodge motors fit better apparently since there is some type of relationship between Dodge trucks and dodge motors. I thought I read somewhere that the 318 is pretty close to a bolt in swap with minimal fab
Nope Brad out of all the small blocks the Ford is the easiest with the front sump oil pan. The Dodge needs the most amount of fab work. the Chevy is in between.
well im up in the air,not sure what direction to take just yet.v8 is tickling my very few brain cells,but at this moment I just want it to run,a carb. falling out of the sky would be frigging fantastic...hoping to post some pics of this RUSTic gem tomorrow.
Fordubishi,how would the 2.3 thunder chicken bolt up? trans. and wiring and such?
anybody ever swapped up to a ford 4.0?
Nope you would need a wrecked thunder chicken and pull the engine,trans and wiring. the bonus about that is you can also run a wiring harness from a 2.3L Ranger (pre 88 single plug) or a 2.3L mustang.Then use the Turbo ECU and you have to move 3 wires in the ECU plug. I did the 2.3L turbo swap on an 87 Ranger 2.3L and it was simple, just ran the T-birds Rotary vain meter and added the wires to the harness. The other nice thing is the Rangers use and external fuel pump on the frame rail not an in tank one.
Never seen a 4.0L swap but was thinking a 3.8 or a 4.2L would work too.
not to fond of 3.8 but had really good luck outta 4.0 and 3.0 but i will NEVER have another 2.9....NEVER
but anyway,i dont want turn this into ford engine discussion!lol i just want my mighty max to run,if only this rain would stop.(10 days straight)
lol no problem just giving you some options for the future.
ok,so i got a working carb.spitting gas back through the carb,and no start,timing marks line up,but looks like somebody been into the head.very little oil on top and one rocker is a different color(newish grey). i dont have adjustable valves,but there is an adjustment for the jet valves.what are those things for anyways?what purpose do they serve?
They were are an emission thing. When they go bad they will cause backfiring. Bad vacuum problems. They have eliminator kits for about 30 bucks. It sounds like the timing is off by 180.
yeah Camoit I also found out to I could just remove the adjusting screws and the valves are disabled and stay closed.also I removed my head and the valves,when I the valves,I MEAN ALL THE VALVES,were caked up with about an 1/8 inch of carbon build up,everything is cleaned up waiting on head gasket kit now.o yeah,alot of the vacuum lines were trashed,some just fell apart when I touched them others were just way to loose,making headway now
Yep thats a 30 year old truck. Anything rubber is bad, and anything that moves needs to be fixed.
pb blaster,pb blaster,and more pb blaster
:shrug:anybody know the difference in 2.0 and 2.6 distributor,are they interchangable?
I doubt it very much that they are compatible at all. If you need something out of a 2.0 dizzy, I have a couple of them sitting around with internals.
Count the sprocket teeth and if you have both, match them up.
Attachment 7741
thanx BradMph.mines is 2.0 but i picked up a 2.6 distributor at the pullapart today just because. also got the carb coil and ecu off it.i cant help myself,going back tomorrow to see if i can get the whole truck
the only 2.0 distros that work on 2.6 are the 79-82 years, but the curve for the advance is different. the 83 up 2.0 is a different series of motors than the 2.6, so they definately won't work
the gears look the same but 2.6 shaft is shorter and thicker:grin:. I just snag parts when I see em doesn't matter if I need em or not
pulled the worthless 2.0 today.time for the 5.0 conversion!
Lookin forward to the swap !
Post Pictures as You Go !
if I can figure out how to upload some pics...I can frankstien some vehicles but I cant work a computer!:shrug:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty bishi
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ips-and-tricks
oh,ok thanks camoit.
sooooo, it begins. got it tagged today. me and this tag have seen a many of projects together!Attachment 7908
and ripped its guts out and threw em on the groundAttachment 7909
302 edelbrock 4 barrel intake and a c6 tranny. not as pretty as Fordibishi's but im not going for looks this go around! the guy told me the engine came from an 84 mustang but looking at the exhaust manifolds,im not so sure about that.Attachment 7910
$100 for the engine, $50 for tranny, still need a carb and distributor and a few misc. parts maybe another $100 and then the fab work begins
you will also need a front sump oil pan,pick-up, and timing cover off a 70's something with the dipstick in the cover.
Fordibishi, I yanked the tranny from a 78 van with a 302,the engine was complete with the exception of the carb and half the dizzy.. imagine that,huh. anyways the timing cover should work out fine and im guessing it should have the front sump pan also. ran out of daylight today. thanks for the intel.
The EPA don't like it when you put in an older engine than the vehicle -pollution ya know - lol
EP who?? lol I live in a county that doesn't have emission testing, so I reckon im good!
it will fit,not exactly in there just right yetAttachment 7914
and this why Fordibishi says to use front sump oil pan, this is pic of the rear sump. it sits on the frame, STUCK. Not because I didn't believe him, I just had to see why.Attachment 7915
lol yep. that's why I went to a front sump, you can get a cheap chrome one from Summit. The reason you need a new timing cover is the dip stick is on the right hand side at the front to go into the front sump. Or you can use your existing one and drill a hole to put the new dip stick tube into again Summit carries them in chrome or go out to the wrecker and pull one off a 70's car and you will see where the hole is. You will also need a front sump oil pick-up tube that you can get from any auto parts store.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...view/make/ford
I love pullapart, take my tools and wander around aimlessly through acres of junk cars until I find what I need. and most of the time I find things that I don't really need but just gotta have it...:headbanger: