JJ (my Ram 50 Sport)

So today I took some time(A lot) and cleaned up and did some little stuff to my new truck. I just inherited the truck from my grandpa Jay, who I am named after(Jason) hence the trucks name. He bought the truck used before I was born and I believe I am now the third owner. The truck is a 1990 Dodge Ram 50 Sport model with the extended cab. It has the 2.4 4g64 and is a 2wd model. The truck was wrecked a number of years ago and all the new parts were acquired, but never installed due to the weld in requirement of the core support. I have all the pieces needed to put the truck together once I feel like taking the time and effort to tear it apart drill out all the welds and put in the new panel. Until then the truck will remain much the way it sits right now. Visually I will not be changing the truck, but mechanically it will be much improved over time. The plan is to fit a Ford Ranger front lip onto the stock valence for the Ram to better the aero on the front. Suspension will be bags all around, although not body dropped or anything crazy. The coils I'm just going to replace with bags in the front with nothing changed and the rear will be getting mono-leaf and a lowering block with just the supplemental air bag so its not laying on the ground all the time. The mono-leaf design will be just to avoid doing a 4 link setup and all that time and money involved. The idea behind the suspension is comfortable, aerodynamic being as low as possible at higher speeds, and functional so that I can avoid worrying about driveways, speed bumps, or any decent amount of weight in the back since it is still a truck and will be used as one. The engine I am undecided on as of yet but ideas are a DOHC swap onto the stock block(which is #1 contender right now) or just a full 4G63 swap for the more efficent 2.0 and turbo possibilities. Interior I have no real plan besides a nice stereo replacing all the speakers and head unit with a sub setup that is TBD. Surprisingly the original sound system that is still in place sounds quite good, and all functions properly. The paint will not be changed as I love the color and its still in really good shape. That includes the bed which has had a canopy shell on it for as long as I can remember, but will be getting a good spray in bed liner. The truck has it's little issues, which I have another thread for getting all of your advice on. Anyways I'm sure you're all ready for me to shut up and see some pictures lol.
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The truck when it was wrecked
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The truck sitting at my grandparents house before i brought it home to make it mine
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So thanks for looking and feel free to leave or thoughts and opinions, as long as your not telling me I'm stupid or going about this the wrong way. I like being different and weird and one of a kind.

Welcome, and very nice truck! I am extremely jealous of your fully paneled interior of your macro cab. I am missing all the rear plastic trim panels on mine, probably since it wasn't a sport, it would be nice to be able to find them some time. Sounds like you have some good plans for it, be sure to keep us updated on it with lots of pics lol.

You'll fit right in here if you're weird and different...... if you were normal you would be working on a S-10, Nissan, Ranger or a Toyota P/U :P

Man, NICE TRUCK!! Should enjoy it LOTS! Looks almost new inside, and seats make me drool! SOme smart folks on here, so ask, and help usually comes quick:)!

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Originally Posted by Fordubishi

You'll fit right in here if you're weird and different...... if you were normal you would be working on a S-10, Nissan, Ranger or a Toyota P/U :P

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lol fordubishi...they aren't normal...they are just not as weird as us. :linedance:

I like them space cabs for sure. You can lean back a seat without clunking the back window. Damn I am jealous too!

Oh yeah its nice and comfy the seats are in awesome condition too still super comfy and the original stereo sounds great too!

That damage you had to repair sure looks like a Washington Deer impression.
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nope colision with another vehicle ive got all the insurance paperwork from it when it happened in feb of 08 and its looked like the pictures without the grill since then until just the other day when i dove head deep into the thing now im just trying to get it to run right get at least 25mpg and hopefully not dump fuel out like its a diesel like it currently is and being able to start when cold would be nice also but i think i fixed one issue with the idle so its getting there as long as the head is good testing will happen this weekend ive got a block tester compression and leakdown to preform

If it has set for a while then you can try to clean the injectors. It worked wonders for mine.

to keep and rebuild the motor? or swap i cant decide! anybody in the pnw that might want the 2.4 and trans?

Right now, with fuel readily available, people are prone to become complacent. As a 'survivor' of the 1978 "gas crisis", I witnessed people going out and buying huge Chryslers and Cadillacs. Suddenly, the "fuel shortage" caused long lines around the gas stations. High-gas-mileage vehicles became gold mines for sellers.

An eye on the future prompts me to want a vehicle that gets good mileage, can be push started, and that I can work on, because I KNOW it. These factors add up to some degree of independence. A day will come when dropping 675 cubic-inch engines in these trucks will be considered insanity. At present, gas is $3.19 a gallon for regular...and my truck runs on regular. We know the planet is at peak oil, so the price is only going to go up.

Consider that in making your choices, RNMM. Also know that folks like me would consider killing for that interior!!!

I chose this truck for its simplicity. Yours' is an inheritence, and it's for you to do with what you want, but maybe Gramps was giving you the gift of long-lasting economy, for when the days aren't so bright.

bahahaha this truck doesnt get DICK for mileage my neon gets 35-40mpg and got a best of 42 on the freeway so this is the last thing i care about wth anything else i own the neon is for driving and gas mileage the only reason i would keep the stock engine at this point is to keep it original as a prime example and be a nice little truck for when i want to drive it at this point im leaning heavily towards an srt swap although i have a v8 ready to bolt in and go, kindof.

the one big thing with keeping the stock motor, besides simplicity and price, would be to get some decent power from the 4g64 sohc as i would run ms off the stock setup and try to get at least 150whp which should be easy for a 2.4

If you want power drop in a kawasaki hayabusa engine. 200 HP and 16000 rpm.

thats a horrible cost to power ratio i can do a 400hp srt swap for about 2k easy at this point in thinking and internet browsing im at a killer sbm making around 600 plus a 300hp shot of nos OR a 800hp srt swap which would be lighter and not need as much power to break 9s

And busa is suzuki btw dunno why i didnt catch that earlier

Welp its gonna happen. I've got a chrysler edz 2.4 lined up to put into the pickup so i just need to try and adapt it to the stock trans and then make a couple mounts and an exhaust and wire it up and away we go! Shouldn't be too hard just a matter of a little fab work with the grinder and welder and some ac and ps lines so no biggie lol i cant wait to get this started!!!! just have to finish this damn ranger..... and then get my other neon running and fix my sisters so maybe 2 weeks and i can throw the truck in to get this project rolling!

Looking forward to the swap, hope to see you do it

the engine itself will be fairly easy just a couple mounts some wiring make an intake and fab up an exhaust the problem will be the trans as all the options are hydro clutch for bolt up units and the stocker is cable so has anybody gone hydro? i know the fear monger is so ill go check out his thread

Yes there is a Hydraulic clutch mod available for the trucks and damn if I can remember the name. A member from I think Australia posted pictures and gave information on it. Seemed pretty basic to install and he said he loved it. Someone here should remember seeing the post and will probably post it here for you.

That munched front end reminds me of when I hit a couch on the freeway that fell out of a truck at night. When I pulled over to check damage, there were 4 others on the side of the freeway with smashed front ends also. Mine wasn't too bad, a fender, grill and headlight, no bumper or hood though.

Hydro is easy as long as the trans is already hydro. The 1st gen diesels and the 2nd gen 4x4 v6 both came with a hydraulic clutch so you could always grab the pedal and master from one of them

starquests were also hydro clutches and the trannies will swap with the trucks cause they are truck trannies wih stronger internals for the turbo power

well at this point im looking at getting a trans that will bolt to the edz instead of trying to mate the stock trans it will be a lot easier since the edz lower bellhousing bolts are about 2" apart up and down so the reason for hydro will be because the trans i will get will be hydro so if theres a pedal and master that i can put on the truck from a v6 truck that will be perfect! now to just find one.... im excited now this is starting to shape up!

no pics at the moment but i figured id drop in and let everybody know im alive lol i have an engine for it so now i just need a trans(one sitting at the jy i need to grab ASAP) megasquirt and some time to make it all work lol so maybe if someone will make my old drivetrain pay for a trans that would be great!!!! lol ill get a few pics here soon though for everybody that hates reading

So since i have an engine i figured i should get a transmission so i can get this project underway once i can get to it lol. A couple weeks ago i spotted a 2.5 2wd 5 speed dakota at the junkyard. This weekend was another sale for picknpull so i had to jump on it! Today i went and yanked it out and checked out the flywheel which was an 8 bolt like the neon 2.0/2.4 so i figured hmm i wonder if they are the same... So i take off the flywheel and head over to a neon pull the flywheel off and set it up there.... Okay sweet so the center bore is the same and some bolts line up! turn it to try and match them up and go figure they match!!!! One big hurdle taken care of i can use the dakota flywheel and clutch to match the trans and throwout bearing. Now i need to figure out the hydraulics and how to modify them to the 50s clutch pedal so i can use all factory replacement parts. The input shaft of the trans is too long for the 2.4 crank so that will have to be modified but a lot of the big things are now simplified. Pics will come later tonight after they upload so i dont talk too much and bore everybody lol.

cool truck I'm jealous of that tach

Thanks! its nice having the tach i really dont like driving cars without one my other truck really needs one lol i just need to hook it up to the megasquirt once i get it installed so that it still works lol

the NP 2500
gear ratio
1.......3.79
2.......2.29
3.......1.48
4.......1.00
OD....0.79
Rev...3.90


This is for reference on the gearing of the new trans

Well here are pics of the engine and trans setup finally lol this is what will be going in the pickup
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So what these last few pics are is proof of a discovery i made at the jy. The dakota 2.5(and i would presume all 2.2&2.5 motors) have the SAME EXACT CRANK PATTERN!!!!! the bolt pattern and center bore are an exact match to the 2.0/2.4 motors! Pictured is the 2.5 dakota flywheel i snagged bolted up to my sbec 2.4 out of a 2000 stratus. The smaller flexplate is a neon t350 i have laying around and the bigger one is an srt4s t850 that is an exact match for size and starter ring gear with the dakota. My plan is to use the entire dakota setup with the starter flywheel clutch trans slave and possibly master that is still to be determined with the 50 being a cable clutch i have to modify that to make it all work. The biggest hurdle at this point is the crank difference is shallower where the input shaft meets up with it so the bellhousing doesnt sit flush when you bolt it on. More info to come later so you guys dont get bored with how little progress i make lol. The coupe is being put together so the truck cant get any fab work

^^^wow

With the stock stratus head it will retain the intake and exhaust on the same sides as the 4g64 but i will likely keep the intake to the drivers side and keep it away from the exhaust heat and the stratus intake is a long runner so it will build awesome torque i just have to modify it for a forward facing tb so its not hitting the firewall lol

Welp tore down the motor and #3 rod bearing is junk and will likely need a grind yay not what i wanted

Well I pulled out the truck and played with it a little bit.....
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That's not good news about the fragged bearing. Hopefully you won't find anything else nasty in there at the same time. What is the clearance like between the back of the head and the firewall? Looks like there's meant to be a CAS attached to it (and a coolant outlet too)

Glad to see you making some progress on JJ, RNMM. Lots of challenges lay ahead, but I know you're up to them.

A year from now we'll be getting pictures of the body work you're doing, because the engine is running good!

Best of luck to you :)

You have enough room under that hood for 3 of them engines. Count on having dirty hands for the next few months huh? ;)

lol i have a small section of clean clothes in my closet i scrap metal and work on cars and do anything and everything dirty lol. As for the back of the head yes there is a cam sensor that goes on the intake cam and the other port is an egr port, the egr will be blocked off since those just gunk up an engine anyways and the cam sensor will not be used, at least not there. If i go with a factory computer installation i will be using the jeep setup which will give me many advantages for my rwd oreintation(jeep wrangler and liberty were avaliable with the 2.4 for a few years in both rwd and 4wd) that places the cam sensor in the front timing cover and has a trigger wheel that attaches behind the exhaust cam wheel. It will also give me a single serpentine 6 rib belt to run the A/C, alternator, and power steering all together at once. As for that body work roy, IM NOT TOUCHING THE DAMN BODY ITS GOOD ENOUGH lol its actually in remarkable shape and i just dont want to mess with it and the time energy and money it requires lol plus i dont want to hack up and keep it looking as original and factory as possible. Thats the goal of this whole ordeal is to have an OBD2 simple and efficient factory setup that will have more than enough power and get good gas mileage while being way more reliable.

But i may just go with megasquirt since i could always just use my laptop to diagnose anything quickly and easily then and would be a lot easier and quicker than trying to integrate the factory system with the mitsu but we shall see. Im thinking however that i will need to cut and recreate the engine crossmember since it is the one piece that is the most in the way of the oil pan and it is a lot easier to rebuild than to reshape the oilpan

So i need some help guys, I need some pictures of the engine bay and how much room i have to the radiator and core support. As you can see i took off the core support to replace it, and im doing the swap while it is out for ease of driveline installation. If you have your engine out that would work perfect, as would the engine installed. Any measurements would be great but i really only need some reference photos. A shot directly down the radiator without the shroud would be perfect espically an aftermarket aluminum unit that im going to switch to. Also a side shot of the back of the engine to see how far it is from the firewall/ how far into the engine bay the transmission sits. Also if anybody has a picture of how much room from the hood to the valve cover or a measurement instead would be helpful. Lastly i need a picture from either side of the truck of the steering linkage and where it is compared to the oil pan and transmission. Any and all help is greatly appreciated even if you only have one measurement or one picture.

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PICTURE DUMP ALERT
Okay so i did some test fitting and without the oilpan i was able to get the engine and trans closeish to where i want it and bolt on one of the manifolds i have as an option this is just mock up and is not where everything will end up
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Now with the pan off
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I have an option of at least 3 different intakes that i will prefer with caravan and stratus intakes being a much longer runner for superb torque and even the pt or jeep intakes that wrap up over the valve cover that would be similar to the stock mitsu intake

Some of those camera angles are downright artful, RNMM!

Project is looking great, and I know you feel good about working on the truck, again.

So darn CLOSE on a few of those positionings, and yet so far. You'll figure it out, I'm wagering good money on it :)

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Some of those camera angles are downright artful, RNMM!

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This one is pure art...
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lol thanks but its just my iphone5 i just point and shoot lol and try to get the necessary info included in the picture but that last one i have a feeling the brake lines are going to have to move sadly ill take a pic here sometime of the stratus intake i want to use

The good thing about the upper half of your inlet manifold is the thermostat housing is in the right place. What will you need to do to get the throttle body in a forward facing position?

any manifold i will run will have either a forward facing tb or one going over the valve cover like stock 4g64 its just a matter of cut and weld on some aluminum

with the oil pan on did you have room between the oil pan and the hood

Wow ive neglected this thread for a while lol. Ive got another engine, this time complete with ALL the stratus accessories so i can get stuff from a parts store, one of the main goals is long term and simple so avaliable parts is a MUST. I also got a new trans, this time its the newer dakota trans that shares a bellhousing bolt pattern with a slew of other transmissions made by Aisin that are all different later versions of the original that i have, the AX15. This means Toyota R154(supra) and chevy MA5 can be used if i need more beef than the standard one i have. At the moment i have a block with accessories bolted to the transmission ready to be mocked up in the truck, but i need some help. I need a critical measurement to make sure that i am keeping the drivetrain lined up correctly and not screwing with any of the geometry. I need to know where the crankshaft is in relation to the frame, so i can duplicate that number and modify the truck accordingly. Mainly i need the measurement of the crankshaft centerline at the front of the engine compared to the frame. So if you have a stock engine truck that is torn down(front of the motor is all off and you can grab the crankshaft) PLEASE put a ruler or something across the frame and a tape measure next to the crank and take a picture. It will help me immensly.

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I got an entire 1999 stratus engine at the picknpull 50% off sale including alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, intake and exhaust manifolds, wiring harness, and ecu. This allows me to get off the shelf easy to find parts for a stratus, with just some fabbed motor mounts and fuel system. All of the accessories on the stratus are in the same location that the trucks were originally, so only some custom lines to connect said systems need to be made. The new trans is the later dakota 2.5 transmission, the ax15. The bellhousing to trans pattern is the desirable one that is a rather universal pattern that aisin uses on a range of transmissions from the chrysler/jeep ax15, toyota r series(including supra r154) and chevy ma5 transmission. They are all the same basic transmission, granted some internal differences and external locations and lengths, and are all quite reliable. Also planned now is a 50 Trim or equilavent turbo on a 420A eclipse turbo manifold running 15psi and should be good for 300hp and be big enough to stay OUT of boost for 30+mpg but be more than adequate for towing a neon on a trailer.

(copied from my neons.org project log)

how are we doing?

Havent done anything really lol. Had other projects and i moved away from my garage so progress is really slow. One thing that did happen is i got an intake from the 420a eclipse and with minimal trimming it bolted on and should work really well for the turbo setup and clearing everything.
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Hopefully in a few weeks once im done getting my 73 running ill be starting mockup and building the mounts so i can get the ball rolling on this!

Needed at this point is:
turbo
turbo manifold
srt4 rods & pistons
misc bs
time

sweet

I have a turbo manifold for that engine. It was originally built for the Jeep I boosted.

I would gather turbo parts and build the 2.5 5 speed combo..
There should be lots of Daytona and lasers to steal all the parts you need for the turbo build.
maybe you could even find an old super 60 package for it.

I want new electronics and obd2 not the old 8v stuff. If i wanted that i wouldve stuck with the stock engine, and yes i know i couldve easily done a 4g63 swap. Im also a neon guy so the srt stuff is easy to me and way more efficient than the old 8v stuff thats not even a cross flow head.

Its funny how many neon guys have d50s and mighty maxs. Its so much nicer moving engines with a truck, and not on my passenger side floor board.

Right? and the fullsize trucks lol. I keep seeing the same people in the old dodge truck groups/mighty max groups/neon groups. Must be a mopar thing lmao. I actually didnt get to use my little truck as a truck all but one or two times before it broke down and i ripped out the engine lol. My 88w250 does all the heavy lifting anyways.

:)) Loving the junkyard ingenuity.

Aftermarket items are expensive, hard to get, and not as well tested as OEM parts usually. It just requires the correct group of OEM parts and the ability to make them work on different setups. My main goal is to be able to get any part i need from any parts store to fix the truck, besides fuel and turbo bits. It will be my daily for the next 20 years and several hundred thousand miles so serviceability and reliability are key. Just gathering parts has taken almost a year now and total cost of about $1000 or more regular price for just the core parts that i have and I believe I am about $400 into it all. The most common saying you hear in the car world these days is "Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick two." I grew up with a different saying, "Time, Money, Skill. A combination of two and you can do anything you want. Enough money and you can pay someone for the other two." I lack in funds so it takes time and skill, both in building and sourcing the parts so I take the time to find what i want from the one place where parts are cheap. The rest of it is doing the opposite of what most people do, Merrill excluded being one of the few I've seen to make a solution to the problem not just "fixing it", and that is to make sure everything is compatible, serviceable, and reliable.

Bump for ancient history it seems? lol Project is not dead or forgotten just on a back back burner unfortunately. Just moved across the state to spokane and looking for a place to store/work on the truck since im in an apartment. Anyway does anybody here have megasquirt on their truck? I've been thinking and planning what i need to do to the truck and what all i need for it and looking for anybody else who is using an aftermarket ecu on their truck. One of the main things im worried about is the transmission im using has a speed sensor in the trans while the truck uses a mechanical speedometer. I want to retain the factory gauges instead of spending way too much money of aftermarket ones but i want the ecu to get a speed input. Does anybody have any ideas of a solution?

O.k. so where did you source your transmission? You might have to get creative and pull the instrument panel from the same model donor vehicle and graft it into the dash...

...oh, and I've been wondering how this build was going. It'll be interesting how it's all come together and runs when you get to the turn-key state.

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Originally Posted by redneckmoparman

I want to retain the factory gauges instead of spending way too much money of aftermarket ones but i want the ecu to get a speed input. Does anybody have any ideas of a solution?

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There are 10's if not hundreds of dual sensor units (cable+"vr" in one housing) available...

Try http://www.standardbrand.com/en/products/sensors/ for reference.

Granted, sensor diameter, cable fitment, driven gear, and hold down will be issues.
However, soooo many have been produced, research may yield an viable option
to dash/gauge work :)

The trans is from an early 90s dakota. Its an AX15 similar to whats used in the jeeps and has the factory speed sensor.

Its been a long time but im finally working on the truck. Just got the floor cut up and getting the drivetrain final position worked out. I will post a full update and fix and add pictures this week.

Wow, GREAT to see you again, RNMM !! And real happy that you're still working with JJ.

Thanks Roy! I can never get rid of the truck after inheriting it from my grandpa. Glad to be making some progress though it has been far too long since I have driven it! On a side note though can anybody get me the angle of the drivetrain? I believe the entire drivetrain sits at 3* and the offset is to the side with the driveline to driveshaft being 0* up and down. Anybody with a long bed or macrocab that could find out for me would be great!