I know we have a sticky for the 63 and 63T complete engine swap, but what about just swapping the head for a DOHC. Anyone have some info for this, or done it.
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I know we have a sticky for the 63 and 63T complete engine swap, but what about just swapping the head for a DOHC. Anyone have some info for this, or done it.
Just found a few guys on DSMtalk.com are about to do this same style swap... Ill keep posting info as I get it. Im sure I won't be the only one interested.
I suppose Mitsubishi never made a even spaced port intake for carbs, did they?
Wow thanks mike, I completly forgot about projectzerog. I have been on there and read it before too. If and when I do it then, I keep a good pic log.
With that info there, does anyone know if the 7 bolt block and a 2G head will need any blocked holes?
I guess you're gonna have to let us know!
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are the head gaskets the same between the 6 bolt and the 7 bolt, that will give you an idea
Sleeps, it seems im in the same boat as you. I have a 95 Mighty Max that i have been wanting to put a DOHC turbo set up on. I have read and searched on it and found some good info but not enough info to pull the trigger due to alot of on answered questions. Has anyone actually done this and has a good detailed step by step and parts needed info for this swap?
projectzerog.com has reams of relevant information on this swap. Also hotrodcoffeeshop.com.
Thanks for the info, i already read the projectzero.com website. Still wondering if my trucks engine is a 6or7 bolt and if its narrow or wide. Dont want to pull it apart until I have everything I need for me swap. Im going to check out hotrodcoffeeshop now thank you again.
You have a wide 7 bolt.
http://projectzerog.com/mitsubishi_engines.shtml
[QUOTE=noahwins;25876]You have a wide 7 bolt.
http://projectzerog.com/mitsubishi_engines.shtml[/QUOT
So with that being said and looking over the link you posted I can't find a TURBO DOHC that's a wide 7 bolt. This is really confusing to me. I'm keep reading to put on a eclipse head but which is the right one for what I'm looking to do. Can i just buy a donor car that would have everything i need for the swap?Sorry for all the questions. I really like my truck and want to do the swap but want to feel comfortable with trying to tackle this swap on my own and the help of all the info I find on here.
Not enough time to go into the wide 7 bolt deal but know that everyone gets confused. Wide/narrow 6/7 is the most confusing thing about Mitsubishi. There are hundreds of combos. It's not a satisfying answer but read, read and read some more. Every conceivable question about this swap has been answered.
But buying a donor 1G DSM is by far the easiest way to do the swap.
Glad this topic if gaining more intrest. Here is some info that might help un-confuse you. The 6 and 7 bolt reference is for the crank, the head should bolt on to one another, the wide and narrow block is for the transmition differnences.
If your is a 95 2.4, its going ot be the wide block, so unless your going to change transmitions, dont worry about the wide narrow issue. If you are just doing the head swap, this is why I started the thread, a DOHC from the 6 or 7 bolt wide or narrow should fit, it should not matter what engine you take it from. What will matter is what else you will need. If you can get a doner car for parts, that will help most the stuff. The cam gears are not the same for a 2.4 DOHC and a 2.0 DOHC. And then you will need the ecu and electronics from the car you took the head off of.
ok, that helped alot with 6or7 bolt and. wide or narrow confusing part. I plan on keeping my tranny and long block so thats good. I read that you have to block off oil port holes and then i also read you dont have to. Everything i read contradicts the last thing i read, i want to figure out exactly what i need to do so i can do a detailed build thread for everyone to benefit from. I have all winter off so i want to tackle this project over this winter so its ready for spring time! thanks for the help.....
All the info you need will be found on the projectzerog.com or hotrodcoffeeshop.com forums. I have seen a few completed build threads on those sites where they said exactly what you need to do for a dohc head swap onto a 4g64 block, you just have to do a TON of searching, but I know it's on there definitively. No one on here has done that swap, and if you really want to do it you need to put your head down and search every last resource and link you can find, that's what I had to do.
Droppedmitsu, I started reading your build thread and was wondering roughly how much your swap cost, or better yet how much do you think it would cost for me to source all the parts to do a similar swap. Im just getting more confused the more i read. I started doing alot of research on the 4g64 to 4g63 DOHC swap about a year ago and gave up because it was very frustrating reading and reading and never really understanding the exact method of the swap. There was a parts list that someone made with the parts needed for the swap but that link in no longer available.
My swap has been through a few different phases and also two different trucks. Mostly it depends on how much you can get the engine/acc and ecu/wiring harness for. I got lucky that I found a totaled eclipse that still ran, and the guy needed money so I got it for $450. After that I spent probably $500, but could have got by a little cheaper as I did a bunch of maintenance and other stuff. So I had an engine and all acc for engine and a bunch of neccessary items for a DEAL. So really it depends how you do it, buy a total car or get just the engine and acc and source the rest. Personally I think its best to find a running vehicle.
Tell me what you're getting confused on and I'll help out as best I can.
I hope I can better answer this for those interested. My R&D Team and I have dug up a bunch of info with this since it applies to our upcoming build.
This swap should be a direct bolt-on minus moving the engine forward or modifying the firewall.
To make it easy to explain, I will reference the 4G64 variants as 7G & 8G Galant as well as the MM block. They are all different.
The 4G64 Deck Casting (where the head meets the block) is what is important on this one.
DOHC swaps (DSM type) for the FWD crowd is done by using a 7G Galant block with DSM head, either 6 or 7 bolt. Most people like the 6 bolt for the larger volume. The 7G deck casting does not math the 4G63 deck casting, so some holes need to be plugged and it will all work out fine if you see no objection with plugging drain holes. It is not too hard to do it at all.
8G Galant blocks will not match up to a MM transmission (just by looking and measuring - never fit checked). Reason I say this is because the 8G 4G64 blocks have an axle running through the lower right bolt hole due to the mirrored orientation of the engine.
If you take a look at the deck casting of the MM 4G64, it matches the pattern of the 4G63 almost dead on. There are a couple holes that do/don't exist on one or the other for cooling, but that is not a big deal. In a sense, the 4G64 MM block is literally just a tall 4G63 casting,
You still need the '94 4G64 DOHC timing belt, and you still need to make the modifications to the engine position, intake manifold, and so forth. Aside from that, you can bolt the 6/7 bolt DSM head straight on to the MM 4G64 without any hole plugging based on that.
Is this the same merrill from the mirage boards
Yup. The same.
Nice to have somebody from another mitsubishi platform on here, are you still doing the rom tuning for the obd1 cars or you moved on to ecuflash
So I hear all this talk about 6 bolt and 7 bolts motors.......I am by no means experienced with these vehicles. How do I tell by looking. And am I correct on 1g(90-94???) DSM's are 6 bolt and 2g(95-99??) are 7 bolts? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by noahwins
Not sure about the DSM stuff, but...
...6-7 bolts motors means how many bolts are holding the flywheel onto the engine, and then there are...
...Wideblock and narrowblock are just about the same except the blocks. The wide is 13¼ from the centers of the hollow positioner studs on the rear of the block. The narrow is 12½ inches across, give or take ¼in. They were made in 2 sizes because the larger would not fit into the engine compartment of passenger cars.
As a rule of thumb:
Turbo + North/South orientation = wideblock
all others (including East/West orientation Turbo) = narrowblock
There are exceptions to the rule though, some 4G52s and 4G54s are wideblock depending if auto or not, and some later model 4G64 van engines are wideblock also.
This thread is a little on the older side and it might be worth your time to start your own if you like and that way you can go back to it faster using the My Post link at the title menu. Just a suggestion to help speed your searches.
6 and 7 bolt refers to how many bolts hold the flywheel to the crank. There are ways to tell a 6 bolt block apart from a 7 from the outside, do a search on google and you will find info on how to tell the difference. 6 bolt went up to about 92.5 maybe 93. Pretty sure anything after that is 7 bolt for DSM's anyways
Yeah, most if not all 93 and up are 7 bolt.
Since this is a tacked thread, I saved this link for the water block offs, ect.; Jay Racing
Quote:
This product was originally designed to facilitate mounting a DSM head onto a Mitsubishi Mighty Max truck.