My g54b build

So I have the engine on a stand back from machine shop where I had it all checked cleaned and bored. 40 over. The head got all redone as well but im thinking of having it port and polished. Other plans include as much arp bolts as I can get my hands on. It now has new pistons cant remember brand nothing fancy with stock rods. Other plans are performance cam from top end as well as a 38 weber and an electric fuel pump. Besides header which I will get later down the road is there anything you guys think I may be missing to get good potential out of motor? Oh im also gonna get the metal head gasket.

Eliminate the balance shaft and get the flywheel lightened or get a aluminum flywheel, get a better ignition coil

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Originally Posted by Rahtid

Eliminate the balance shaft and get the flywheel lightened or get a aluminum flywheel, get a better ignition coil

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Balance shafts are gone already. Gonna plug oil holes going to upper shaft. Where would I get a better flywheel? Yea ill get a blaster coil.

You can take your old and have it lightened by 10 lbs by a machine shop or buy a aluminum flywheel for a chrysler conquest or mitsubishi starion.

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Originally Posted by Rahtid

You can take your old and have it lightened by 10 lbs by a machine shop or buy a aluminum flywheel for a chrysler conquest or mitsubishi starion.

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What are the benefits of a lightened or aluminum flywheel?

Engine spins up quicker with less rotating mass

Fidanza #161261 for a 87-89 Starion, Aluminum with Steel Clutch Ring, don't forget the Pilot Bearing

http://www.mmeierle.com/Fidanza-Flywheel.JPG

have the rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted - this matches the weights of each part to the lowest part of its type and is necessary when building up a non-balance shaft motor with a lightened flywheel. Look in our manual section for the mopar performance guide section on the mitsubishi engines - lot of good info on porting the head and other details about the early 2.0 and 2.6 motors.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

have the rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted - this matches the weights of each part to the lowest part of its type and is necessary when building up a non-balance shaft motor with a lightened flywheel. Look in our manual section for the mopar performance guide section on the mitsubishi engines - lot of good info on porting the head and other details about the early 2.0 and 2.6 motors.

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So I would need to take the crank and rods back out of motor to get balanced?

Yes...

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Originally Posted by LSR Mike

Yes...

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That sounds like a pain in ass. Just
crank rods and pistons? What do they generally charge for that?

Crank, Rods, Pistons, Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Harmonic Balancer/Front Pulley. bring the Rings also for weigh in/total Piston weight.

last time it cost $130

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Originally Posted by LSR Mike

Crank, Rods, Pistons, Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Harmonic Balancer/Front Pulley. bring the Rings also for weigh in/total Piston weight.

last time it cost $130

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Ok cool. Thanks guys. Looks like I have some parts I need to buy.

Does such a decrease in flywheel weight affect the torque? Had heard that lightening the flywheel mass would affect "pull power" and such a flywheel would generally be used on a sports car as opposed to a truck or is the amount that is reduced not significant enough for such a reduction? JB used to sell a lightened flywheel back in the day.

It changes the spool up of the motor to make it spin up faster, and it will drop faster too, requiring you to keep the revs up while coasting. More beneficial for race cars than trucks if the amount of weight removed is significant from stock like going to a 12# flywheel from a 26# flywheel. Lightening the stock flywheel will do well to help spool up without causing a fast drop off - Geronimo has had a lightened stock flywheel for 25 years now without a problem.

I'm getting ready to do the clutch and trans pan bolt repair. Is there someone reputable who does the stock flywheel weight removal for our engine? I think I could lay up the truck inside the shop (he has a pretty large one to have it done if the turnaround was a week or so).

Attachment 6904
http://www.streetperformance.com/aut...l/3504-4122vc/

Any good machine shop in your area can handle that for you.

I've done a search and can't seem to come up with the manual. I'm not that computer literate as you all saw with the difficulty in posting the info to get the Power Brute / Auburn LSD. How do I find this manual. I searched Mopar Performance Guide and Mopar Performance. I would like to read and or buy this manual. Thanks.

Our Forum Auto repair Manuals?

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...er-Source-Info

I'm gonna have top end performance do my stock flywheel lightening

Any machine shop that does flywheels can lighten our truck flywheel, they just grind the other side of the disk. It isalso a good idea to have them balance the flywheel after to ensure smooth running.

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Originally Posted by pennyman1

Any machine shop that does flywheels can lighten our truck flywheel, they just grind the other side of the disk. It isalso a good idea to have them balance the flywheel after to ensure smooth running.

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I may have to look around Tucson Arizona. The machine shop I had to motor work doesn't do flywheels and I want them to do other balance work. I don't know any other shops around here. I only heard good from one I went to.

Strange, my machine shop did my flywheel for my rebuild, yet they would not remove a bearing from a rear axel, lol. Something about them flying around the shop and sticking in the wall.
Did you ask your guy where to get it done. They must get asked every time they rebuild a motor I would think. Same machine that does the head can do the flywheel, so they must not want to tie up the grinding machine or ruin it. Check a brakes shop, they have the tools to do this most of the time with disk brake rotors coming in.
Another place to ask is a hotrod performance shop. With all the request they must get on performance changes they must know of one. Tell them the flywheel is for a 65 Corvette Coupe and watch them jump on that shit. :lmao:

Don't forget to post an image of the flywheel if you get it's weight reduced.

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Strange, my machine shop did my flywheel for my rebuild, yet they would not remove a bearing from a rear axel, lol. Something about them flying around the shop and sticking in the wall.
Did you ask your guy where to get it done. They must get asked every time they rebuild a motor I would think. Same machine that does the head can do the flywheel, so they must not want to tie up the grinding machine or ruin it. Check a brakes shop, they have the tools to do this most of the time with disk brake rotors coming in.
Another place to ask is a hotrod performance shop. With all the request they must get on performance changes they must know of one. Tell them the flywheel is for a 65 Corvette Coupe and watch them jump on that shit. :lmao:

Don't forget to post an image of the flywheel if you get it's weight reduced.

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That's the problem. The shop I was going to works mainly with the high end high horse race motors. So messing with my motor they just don't wanna put the effort I guess.

I'll look around. Or I'll send flywheel to top end and let them lighten it and redrill for the bigger clutch. Idk yet.

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Originally Posted by Uneek98

I'll look around. Or I'll send flywheel to top end and let them lighten it and redrill for the bigger clutch. Idk yet.

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Do you really want a bigger clutch? Or a stronger clutch,You won't get a bigger clutch for that flywheel,diesel clutch kit is generally stronger .

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Originally Posted by Kiwi minitruck

Do you really want a bigger clutch? Or a stronger clutch,You won't get a bigger clutch for that flywheel,diesel clutch kit is generally stronger .

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If I have them redrill it they will take it from a 225mm to 240mm. So that's a little bigger and a little stronger.

No not a 65, still might balk at doing it. Tell them it's from the "last" L88 427 tripower Corvette convertible built. There may be some liquid on the floor after that... BTW, I go to some of the auctions seems there are like 10 of the "last" Corvette built or the same car gets sold at every auction. We also need to make sure that Carrie Underwood is denied membership here after the line in her song "took a key to the side of his pretty little souped up four wheel drive". An obvious truck hater, just sayin.

Get yourself an electric cooling fan as well. Not a huge power saver but can't hurt. Maybe think about deleting the egr valve too. Unless u have to pass a smog test.

how would you set up the throttle for the 38?

or how did you? id like to run a 38

I haven't done the 38 yet. Don't even have motor together yet. Bought a plymouth arrow I'll b showing you guys soon.

Get a 200hp shot of NOS. That should do the trick.