im looking for a GOOD REBUILDER, or running motor. need something to build for my truck for the future... anybody know where to find them?
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im looking for a GOOD REBUILDER, or running motor. need something to build for my truck for the future... anybody know where to find them?
You'll be better off just to buy a new crate motor. To do a quality rebuild will cost $8000 by the time you rebuild the motor, turbo, injectors, injection pump etc.. A new crate motor shipped to your door with all new accessories is $4100. It's a no brainer.
car-part.com
I am working on a purchase as I need 4 engines for a commercial job I am bidding. I also have decided to install one (4d56ti) in my 1995 mmax. Not sure of EXACT pricing yet, but it SHOULD be less than the $4100 shipped to Mobile, AL. I live in North ALabama(Alexander City) and will bring them back here on a pallet in my truck (or on my trailer). for PU or shipping from here. These are made by Hyundai to Mitsubishi specifications (under licence) as they are sold in various Hyundai vehicles in the Thailand, Burma, Vietnam, Korean markets. Equipped with all new accessories (except A/C compressor) including vacuum pump alternator, starter, wpump, even clutch and pplate. Bolts right up to gas transmissions, using stock v6 or I4 engine mounts. There will probably need some wire lengthening etc for various sensors, etc. There are many experts on here who can tell you more as they already have done the swap (and apparently is a pretty easy swap, as swaps go:)....
There is a block Assy on ebay w/o head, but with some accessories for 800 I believe. Also, used ones for $2000-2500 or so used (from Japan). I agree re rebuilding, especially assembling all "small" parts cost. Much better to buy either a used one (with accessories) or a new one $4100, or whatever mine cost, if less enough to warrant importing them. Those Jap engines used are usually under 60,000 miles and in good shape (with a warranty), so decent deal, IMHO. Make sure to get a "Tuff Pan" from Paul, however. The torque will twist the trans cases and wear the bearings and gears within 100,000 miles or so, I found, in 2wd and 4 wd, with the 4wd lasting 20% less miles all else the same. That was using AMSOIL trans (gear) oil..
thanks for the heads up thillskier, who are you buying the motors from? if you don't mind me asking...
Chinese major parts supplier (supposedly). I say that as I have imported using a China buying service since 2001, with good (if understood regarding spares; warranty we call it). Their idea is send 10% of purchase in "extra" parts, and that is warranty. You need to sell extra parts not needed for repairs to pay your labor. Not ALTOGETHER A BAD DEAL, however, one needs to realize what the translation means to be happy with agreed pricing. That's why I have not priced anything yet. A way too cheap initial price, and I sent a deposit, resulted in a refund today. Its a game though. So, as promised, if interested, as soon as its available, I will post info. I WILL diesel this truck, and then make some power:)! I had ridiculous mpg from my bought new 84 (48 mpg if odo was accurate) every trip to the beach (every other weekend in mid 80's ..unless towing my 22 foot Stamas cuddy cabin boat..then punched, 4th gear, and 65mph. 14 mpg!! FLOORED! hehe My brother saw me coming down the interstate towing the boat, and saw a BLUE DOT under a tan mass with black smoke billowing from it!
Oh, and possibly manufactured by Hyundai. All to be disclosed ASAP I know..
i thought i heard something about they are made by Hyundai now...
Yes, Hyundai is selling them in their SE Asia vehicles. That's the source I am hoping to source from, a company that is supplying them for replacement engines in those vehicles. Same spec as if Mitsubishi was still producing them. The new no usa trucks and SUV's use a very nice DI upgraded diesel, that is CR (high pressure multiple injector pulsed, etc.0 and VERY powerful and torque, but has to be ecm controlled, so a PITA to convert, AND expensive! These "old style" engines should be good for 200+whp and 300+ ft lbs tq, which would be VERY fast in out lightweight trucks, even the 300lbs 4wd. Also fantastic mileage, what I really am looking for:)!
so the engines you will be getting are ecm? or mechanical?
Mechanical, and a very close to a copy of the Bosch fuel pump used on 1990-1993 Dodge Ram (except 4 cylinder). This will allow us very well known upgrades to fueling for better power (with more and cooler/denser air using larger turbo's, more boost PSI and intercooling to keep boosted air cool(er), keeping engines safe. Its a 21 PSI compression ratio, and IDI, so that must be kept in mind when uprating power. I will try to find some heads to try some mild porting, and thermal coating, as I had GREAT results building High Performance Microlight aircraft 2 strokes. The Aluminum heads are very sensitive to overheating, and MUST be kept within a fairly narrow temperature window. If they are not kept cooled (not maintaining cooling system, or too fuel rich) they WILL crack, and usually isn a difficultto repair spot (like between valves). I'm going to run water wetter for sure all the time except the few months here it freezes. The ceramic coating on the cylinder head (and pistons if possible) will make a HUGE increase in efficiency, in an inefficient engine design. (like 2 stroke gas or IDI diesel engines. By burning ALL fuel, that's more power pushing you down the road. In my airplane I was able to cut fuel burn at cruise by 30%! at same power output (ie cruise speed). Lots of fun and interesting possibilities!
keep me informed on this if you dont mind...
I don't want to get too excited YET...They are available but getting them priced correctly is the key. Putting a 4000+ engine into a $1500.00 truck is doable, though unfeasible to many...AND It would be nigh IMPOSSIBLE to sell, probably (At least to general public).. I'd like to offer staged packages. Stage 1: stock, approx. 100 hp and 185 ft lbs tq. (that's an average of what I'm hearing the base non IC 2.5 output. STage 2. Intercooled and optimized, but all factory "settings" intact, just as it should have come (IMHO, of course).n approx. 120 hp and 200 lb ft. Stage 3. Mild fuel upgrade, timing maximized for efficiency and power, and full sized intercooler, larger turbo, possible multi hole extrude honed injectors, etc. 150hp 200lbft. Stage 4. Head ported, Head coated (including IDI pre ignition chambers) and thermally optimized same turbo and I/C as stage 3, injectors. Possibly lowered compression and pistons coated and thermally optimized. O ringed head (if needed) or MLS type headgasket and studs. Should get 200+whp and 350+ lb ft tq reliably, I'm told the bottom end stock will hold 400 ft lbs, reliably. Wouldn't THAT be a RIOT! You guys with V8 engines should be able to relate what that's like:)! Except we should still be over 30 mpg!! Stage 2 SHOULD get 40+ on hwy 2wd, maybe more. I got (using odo) in my 1984 stock 2wd diesel 46-48 on interstate! Unreal! I MISS THAT! for sure, and a major reason I'm doing this.
So I shouldn't bother rebuilding the engine I have? It was running a little over a year or so ago before blowing a h/gQuote:
Originally Posted by 4D55 Performance
I'd just analyze it like any other engine rebuild/replace decision. Rock auto has a "master rebuild kit" for 4 hundred +, that's pretty complete. Need to add in any machine work though, and mileage and condition of accessories. If I can get these delivered to Mpbile, AL for 2500 to 3000, then I'm going to do it. If not either buy a used Jap engine or a new one already in USA. Its not worth getting 5 engines and having to sell them otherwise. The first supplier I was dealing with (for 2500 delivered to Mobile, flaked out, but I got my deposit back so all good, so far:).
I bought one of these engines 3 years ago and it's doing fantastic! I've got about 24k miles on it now.
http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Trucks/M...t_450902-L.jpg
not even broke in yet! what did you put it in?Quote:
Originally Posted by cdalejef
A Mazda B2600Quote:
Originally Posted by mighty spx
ah! I have seen your build thread somewhere else.. very nice
this diesel swap might happen sooner than i thought... maybe... I had the original 2.6 rebuilt three months ago with only 70 miles on it since the machine shop built it. went to take it on its maiden voyage on the interstate to see how it would do... needless to say it didnt go to well....Attachment 6925this a pic from my video scope of number 2 cyl, thats the cyl wallAttachment 6926you can see the oild coming out the exhaust of number2Attachment 6927
I'd say that the motor wasn't done right - something caused all that damage to happen. Get the rebuilder to fix it first - even if you change to a diesel motor, you could sell off a good motor.
Yeah, I'm having to wait till Monday before i can call them.the motor has a warranty. I think they did the pistons a little to tight when they bored the motor.I wanted to pull the head, but I'm afraid they would try to void the warranty then...
That scope is pretty cool. Got a name and model for it? Sorry to hear about the motor, sure don't see any honing done on that cylinder either, don't let them try and say it was your fault. Remember lots of zinc the first 1000 miles or so and then on every so often since the new oils are taken more and more out. Hope all goes well for you.
Strange to say that the #2 cylinder port before rebuild looked pretty nasty too. Something not right with the rebuild for sure. Those other cylinders looked like they were leaking around gaskets, prior rebuild. If you can't get the manifold plained, sometimes a double gasket will cure those problems.
I have a harbor freight scope that I got for 50 bucks - it works fine for this kind of work
i got the scope from matco tools about 4 years ago, snap on has a better one now. and i will hear from the machine shop sometime after lunch today. the rest of the cyl looked great
I wonder if it's possible to get Delica or Pajero turbodiesel half cuts shipped straight from Japan now that they're 25 years old? Or whole vans? Would be around the same cost ($4000) as a 4D56T crate engine, I'd reckon.
well the machine shop is trying to say i ran it lean, and it burned cyl 2 piston... that's the way they are trying to get out of that warranty... even tho i pull them plugs and check for that like every other day and there was never no signs of running lean ever!! and lets say "it was running lean" it would not just effect one cyl.. it would be all of them... this is really annoying
Go figure, %#$^ machine shops. Maybe mention the BBB or Consumer Affairs if they get mouthy.
Thanks for the scope info guys, also.
well got my motor back wed evening from the machine shop, realized they left my heater hose pipe off the motor, and they are 3 hours south from me. so i rigged my own up till i get the pipe from them so i can run my truck some. stayed here at the shop till late night putting it together, get it running. start it up skipping like crazy, skipping on #1, swapped plugs no change, compression tested it, and nothing.... it appears that my intake valve is not sealing properly..... :shakehead: so now i have to pull the head, send it to them and wait.... they covered the last trip under warranty. here are pics of the piston they pulled outAttachment 6984Attachment 6985Attachment 6986
I should have went with a diesel, with all the money i have dumped into they motor rebuild and my time could have got one...
Sorry to butt in but a supplier sending you a box of spare parts for when the shit breaks isn't much of a warranty, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by thillskier
I see a lot of those counterfeit Mitsu diesel heads and pistons and whatnot on eBay and Alibaba. One of the diesel guys on this board tried the cheapo heads and blew up the engine fairly quickly, IIRC and swore off the Chinese stuff forever. Is there a way to guarantee they're the stuff you're getting is the genuine article and not knock offs?
If a group of us got together, we could do a group buy of those authentic Hyundai license Mitsu diesels with all of the accessories straight from Korea for less than the price the middlemen charge. I did some research into it, there's an online market where you can place orders direct from manufacturers. And Korean manufacturers are 100 times less shady than Chinese manufacturers (technologically advanced democratic economy vs. developing Communist economy). But we'd need to order at least 4 engines (I think) for them to accept the order.
those pics are from my trouble some 2.6 GAS that i had rebuilt..the 2.6 gas motor i have now is the reason im looking for a diesel
This was to clarify your (Noah) statement re parts and Chinese stuff...That was for some go ped scooters I imported (2 containers of them for using at airshows and in UL and sport aircraft) as I stated and it was written took place in early 2000's (ie: 15+ yrs ago1)..NOTHING to do with the Hyundai/Mitsu engine purchase)!. That worked out OK, though I'd rather them sent what parts I actually asked for. As stated those Diesel engines were KOREAN, not Chinese diesels so NO Chinese anything in that attempted buy.
I am (yet again) OFFERING to allow others to ship engines with the one I'm buying, under certain stipulations arranged by PM or phone. I WON'T go out on a limb for ANYONE again, ever. Too many Bull shooters talking without funds or intent to buy, even.
This deal fell through, and I had to get 4+ to do it anyways, which didn't happen.
This time 9-7-15, I am buying MYSELF an engine. If anyone else wants to tag along with theirs, great. I am posting info for contact etc on the appropriate new thread earlier posted up.