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I'm experiencing my vehicle cutting off while going down the road like it is out of gas! I installed a new fuel filter checked the plugs all plug wires and the connections to the engine and see no visible problems. When it cuts off you can crank it right back up, but it will do the same thing again and with it idling it runs perfect. suggestions? :bang:
I see you changed fuel filter, but did you check fuel pressure? Sounds like you have a fuel issue.
Some have problems with their mass overflow air sensor. Not sure if you have one on your truck though.
Evidently the problem was that the coil wire had worked loose inside somehow ! I checked the coil wire as camoit suggested,and put it back on and it appears to be running fine,I dove it 12 miles without a single problem
Awesome, Camoit knows his stuff, lord knows he has had every problem know to man with his truck, lol.
Thats true and after working on 1 for 3yrs. He almost has that one completed also
Yep but there is not much left to call it a Mitsu. Only the cab, gas pedal, parking brake, wipers, and defrost blower are stock. Oh and the mirrors. Everything else was crap and needed to be replaced.
problem not solved. after driving without any issues for 12 miles we stopped for a hour cranked it back up and as we was pulling off it starts bucking like a wild bull. it goes not even a quarter of a mile and cuts off. and after cranking several times nothing. only after sitting 10 mins it cranks and drives home without issues. will be replacing the ignition coil this weekend. :(
It's got to be the pick up coil.
Sounds more like the fuel pump is on its way out. when a fuel pump starts to go it will heat up and expand this causes you to lose pressure and shuts down the engine till the pump can cool down again.
He called me the other day on this. But now that it's doing it again he should be able to find it. We went over the pump and ignition. I hope he remembered to check for spark when it shut off on him to rule it out.
I hope you solve that problem soon.
Vapor lock out of the question? I keep thinking fuel problem since you have to wait for a float bowl to refill or wait for a crack in the coil to cool down to enable voltage to connect or jump across 2 points.
I'm most certain it's the coil since when i checked it there was no fire ,then that dang thing bit the {beep} outa me:lmao:
oh man that was funny to read. Kinda like injecting coffee from a fire hose huh 92bluemax? It will make your watch stop if not careful.
Cant find a pick up coil anywhere,even mitsubishi:bang:
Rock auto has the control module. About 35 bucks. That is what dies on the first gens and causes the problems you are having. Be sure to use the discount code in the general dissuasion area.
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/get...tex/6H1019.jpg
Thanks ! I might buy the Distributor $145{new} Ebay and coil pack new $20 ebay
how many miles on the truck
Problem solved !!!! You will not believe the culprit ! It was a _ROOKIE move on my part. I replace the Icm which did not solve the problem. My wife went to move the truck and it did nothing.IE-no lights on the dash or anything. The problem all along was a loose hot battery cable:slap:
it's always the stupid stuff you over look that usually causes the problem.
ICM? Inter Continental Missile?
Did you blame it on your wife? jus kidin :lmao:
No she actually helped me find the culprit!!!! She is a GENIUS,and has helped me many times with our vehicles:worship:I have a true country girl who doesn't mind getting her hands dirty:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
Yeah and we always overlook the small things 1st:shakehead:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
BradMph (ICM- Ignition Control Module ):grinno: Inter continental Missle does sound better LMAO
One day we might have the knowledge to actually fix our trucks,and don't have to worry about problems !(NOT):lmao:
Problem apparently is not solved! the truck drove fine for 3 days coming home i stopped and cut the truck off went to restart and it would spin but would not start. sit for 10 mins fired right up and came home with no problems. i guess it will be a new distributor or fuel pump. im at my last nerve with this thing:bang:
Fuel pump is what I would change first.
im gonna do that then if that aint it then the distributor:bang: just didnt want to pull the fuel tank
It's not that bad of a job.
It is when the tank hasn't been off in 20 years:shakehead:Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
Quote:
Originally Posted by 92bluemax
Nothing a blow torch and a good impact can't get loose or break off. LoL
Ya, a torch on a fuel tank - that will remove it along with the rest of the truck when the leak you didn't know you had ignites...
I had a similar problem, I replaced the fuel filter first, didn't solve the problem. I pulled the distributor cap and found the terminal in the cable going to the ignition had turned to ash. I replaced the cap, rotor, and all the cables and it runs fine. I don't know what caused this problem but I hope it's solved. any input on possible causes is welcome.:shrug:
Distributor cap,rotor button ,plugs,wires are just 1 year old with not alot of miles on them
Check return line (back to tank) for fuel flow (volume and pressure). I have a place in my return line that I can undo a hase clamp to check it. It should flow decently a stream while truck is idling. If its jumpy or varies, MOST likely is pinhole air leak somewhere between tank and engine (usually B4 the pump) unless pump is in the tank on your truck, of course (and why most vehicles have pumps in tank or as close as psossible to it, lessens the air leal/loss of vacuum maddening issues you're describing here. I haven't done this yet but next problem I will put a short clear hose in the "test area of flex (non metal) hose from tank and to tank) look for bubbles..Its a dead give away for this issue..which acts like every, and i mean EVERY other tank, clogged filter, weak pump, bad pump, stopped up in tank pickup, etc, etc, etc! It causes the pump to "loose prime" and vary fuel pressure, include aireated fuel, hot fuel (vapor lock) and all manner of frustrating issues.
If you are at wits end, I will simply run a whole new flex line from tank to pump and smell for leak after pump (or filter). If pinhole is after filter or pump, it will leak, and smell, of course. THIS WOULD BE A NON SMOKING REPAIR!! Please:)!! hehe
OK GL with it, and if you need help, post it, PM me, or call my cell. Camoit has it or PM email me thillskier@yahoo.com..
OK new distributor yesterday from richporter. problem not solved yet,it will drive fine then when i shut it off,won't re start for about 10 mins, then start and cutoff, maybe 6 times,then run fine ! 5 gallons of gas and a match is seriously crossing my mine. coil is next:bang: SMH!!!
Did you do the fuel pump? Also take it to some one with a scan tool. It might shed some light on it. It can also test things with out pulling parts. Like the crank sensor.
Just ordered a new fuel pump !!! I'm not buying anymore parts after this! if it won't solve the problem,I'm parting it out and sending the rest to the crusher,and getting another Chevrolet.....:bang: The new coil, Battery,distributor,and Icm solved nothing !! I'm at my whits end and winter is coming fast and I need a reliable 4x4 {SMFH}
Any chance your ECM is on its way out? Your trucks age is about right if it hasn't already been replaced.
If it's a '92, I'll second that. The ECUs on the FI trucks are notorious for having cracked solder joins.Quote:
Originally Posted by lush90
The ECU is down and to the right of the glove box area bolted to the cab wall under the plastic kick panel.
so far the ecm is out,cause it doesn't act like that is the problem
:bang:just put on new fuel pump,ignition switch,and still cuts off while driving down the road with no warning at all. It just dies with no warning at all!!! i got a mechanic coming over next friday to help find the culprit. when it cuts off there is no fire from the coil
ok this Pos still aint running...had Ecm checked and soldered, and a new main relay. it will run for a few minutes and cut off. im done with dumping money in this thing...when it cuts off there is no fire to the coil...this truck has broke my spirit to work on a vehicle. might be parting out soon.
Don't give up on it!!! I don't know the particulars of your truck itself... but try to find a Mitsu factory tech who can take a peek at it on the side with a scan tool and the knowledge of the ins and outs of the MPFI motor it has. I know it's frustrating but take a step back and breathe. Don't throw any more parts at it w/o a qualified Mitsu tech looking at it. If that's not in the realm of possibility I don't know what to tell you. Go in the back door of the dealer and find out who wants to make a few bucks on the side. The older the better...grey hair is good. If the dealer principal (owner) and/or GM is not averse to the techs doing side work- bribe one with a gift card or whatever it takes. I can tell you one thing...the fix is cheaper than buying another truck and then doing what all it may need if it's used. That I can promise you.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92bluemax
Good luck!
Owners/GMs can be sticklers about the "conflict of interest" thing but there has to be a dealer tech who can help you on the side. Don't make a big deal about it at the dealer. Some dealers look at it as if it is money out of their pocket therefore the conflict of interest thing. The dealer I worked at was awful about it therefore we almost had to "talk in code" regarding that. ;)
I had a similar problem when I first got my truck. Everything went bad in a few months. I replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs/wires, and ecu. All those were bad and when replaced it ran for another 2 weeks then did the cut off thing. Drive me nuts for a while then I have in and gave it to a local mechanic. It made him crazy but eventually he found the problem, a plastic connector had burned up. All he did was cut it out and solder the wires thru, ran great since then.
Yeah sometimes you have to just have to just surrender wave the white flag and bite the bullet. You've been pulling your hair out for a few months now. When they're running, they are the lowest operating cost vehicles anywhere in the world. Hands down. And you never give up on a Mighty Max like he said he thought of doing. :nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by bobsnewdirection
Somebody can find the problem. They just need time with it.
My '91 had a cut out problem like you are describing. Sometimes it would restart while coasting just by popping the clutch, sometimes it had to sit for a while. I finally found my problem by holding the key on start and wiggling all the different wire looms under the dash until it started. It turned out one of the spade connecters inside a plastic connecting plug had slipped apart and was barely making contact. I cut the plug out and soldered/heat shrank the wires and haven't had a problem in over a year.
I cant even locate the obd 1 connector! it isn't under the dash anywhere to be seen... Does anybody know if any other ecm will work on my 92 mm with a 3.0 with a 5 speed ?
I drove it 8 miles and it cut off 9 times in 8 miles,.All wiring looks good,and I put in a new main relay,it ran for 3 minutes and cut off and wouldn't restart,I plugged my old relay up and it ran perfect for a week,then back to my same old problem,it cuts off just like you turn off the key. You wait awhile and it fires back up but wont run long..There are no mitsu dealers near me anymore, and I like my old truck:bang::shakehead:
I just need a new direction to go with this
Check the connection @ the ignition coil. Tap. It with the engine running. If it hesitate / engine stumbles or shuts off you have a faulty connection.
The coil itself could be bad also - look for signs of oil leakage from the coil - if there is leakage, the coil is bad. Had a 76 honda civic 1200 I drove for work that had that happen - went through a deep puddle and the coil got wet and the car quit until it dried out.
Thanks, but its a new coil, icm, starter switch, distributor, fuel pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
Problem finally solved. It was the ECM.I sent it to Avpro ECM, in ft. Meyer's beach, fl.with same day turn around, and for once in a long time my MAX. Is running. 100%
Long shot on an old post but was it something visible on the ecm? I'm having the same issues but the ecm looks good
The failed capacitors are usually quite obvious - they will swell up, forcing the top face to bulge out or the capacitors don't get a chance to swell and they leak. It will stain the PCB around the failed capacitor. Some guys notice a smell like 'fish' emanating from bad caps as well (probably hard to tell as most circuit boards smell a little funky...)Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmorJawn
if its cutting out than its most likely a bad caps. pull the ecm and post a pic. if the caps are leaking than it will smell like fish.
No smell. i dont see any visible damage
Attachment 24510Attachment 24511Attachment 24512Attachment 24513
Some of those soldered joints look like GARBAGE. I would give the board a clean and take a fine tip soldering iron to a bunch of the joints that are looking questionable. As long as you don't jam heaps of heat into it you're not going to make it any worse.
so would you say this is not stock? or are you talking about the brown marks? should i just replace it with a refurb one? im no expert on this so if you could point them out id be very greatful.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
Unfortunately those are factory... I would play it by ear (or eye, in this case) and add a dab of solder where the joints are sketchy. Refurbs can be just as bad - sometimes worse. We have had a few members that have had dud ECM's that had refurb stickers on them (really crap solder jobs...) Clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and a small brush to gently scrub the crap off the joints and use liquid flux before touching up the joints. It would be ideal to use a de-soldering iron before doing the patch up but if this isn't something you'll be intending to do again in a hurry, it's not worth the investment. You can do this no problemo - just be thorough and use a small tipped iron for control. I'll add a video just for the soldering content -
https://youtu.be/5Pxuf94fdRQ?t=326 (this guy is pretty good and the UHF radio that he's repairing is similar in construction and lay out to your ECM)