92 Mighty 2.4L proper running characteristics

I have a 1992 Mighty with a 2.4L manual single cab 2wd(195,000 miles). I just did a new head complete,compression is 180 on all, water pump everything to the battery, and the only thing left is my exhaust manifold coming in from japan tomorrow. I never got to drive the truck before i bought it much was smoking, running to bad. Got it running runs strong idle is good, yet im new to this thing so i dont know how they run. I havent found anyone in south california to listen to one or to drive another one.

My issue which may be a none issue is: It doesnt really run very strong from 1,500-2400 rpms, kinda seems like its lugging to get going, takes off from first gear good and once i shift to second it drops to about 2k and its doesnt really hesitate but just doesnt pull strong. Our these trucks dogs? i still have to do my fuel filter and change my cat once i get out of the country of California. Truck will chirp tires if im driving at its peak horsepower around 3,200 to 4 k. stupid question here but im new to the mighty running characteristics. Thanks again my trucks coming together great, I'll be driving it to Georgia soon to live in Atlanta so maybe i could meet up with someone out there in a couple months. Live strong Mighty world!

Can anyone lead me to a wiring diagram? i bought a service manual but i cannot find the proper color of wires to the injectors.

There should be a manual in the manual section. I want to say it's listed as the electrical schematic. Or it may be in the tech section. But I know we have them.
As for the problems you are having one of the FI guys will chime in here soon.

Well when my 92 was stock, it was a good truck, not a rip roaring monster but a good truck. it should have good low end grunt (high torgue and low gearing) then yeah, kinda mild, and good cruise characteristics. after a compete re-build it should run good.

Now the big question, did you time it correctly? If you don't know Mitsubishi's there is a secret to setting the base timing correctly. you have to ground a ECU Pin to put the ECU in Timing mode, so it doesn't change the timing at different RPM and Load. Crucial to a good running '92.

Check my site http://mmeierle.com/mighty%20max%20info.htm or the manuals section on the site for wiring diagrams.

here's the connector you have to ground for timing.

http://mmeierle.com/Timing%20Plug.JPG

Also if the cylinders were dumping coolant or fuel (due to misfire) then it melted the front of the converter. Most of the time if you rev it to hell then shift and it bogs really bad that's a plugged cat. Be happy. My 94 is an auto with a freshly rebuilt engine. It runs strong but it can't bark tires even if I power brake it on a wet day.

I wasn't aware of the timing plug. I always wondered what that was for. If i was to ground that, my truck would run off mechanical timing mike?

There isn't any Mechanical Timing, Grounding the Plug puts the ECU into Timing Set-up Mode which is essentially no Timing advance or retard, letting you set the base timing of the engine (6-10 degrees BTDC) by positioning the distributor, once that is set, you remove the ground and the ECU will go back to advancing and retarding the ignition. easily seen with a timing light.

ah gotcha. makes sense. I never did that lol I just let the truck run and turned the distributor til it felt right and ran good.

Hey Mike I tried your technique with grounding the ecu and unfortunately I think I fried my ignition coil. I grounded it before it was running and now it wont start. I lost all spark from the coil. Could it be because I should have grounded it while it was running?

Thank you everyone for the tips, we grounded while timing and got it right at 7. It has run alittle better with a new fuel filter and good call on the CAT i get alot of moisture from this engine puddles every time i run it so i do have to revamp the exhaust. Just seems to me the engine just isnt breathing very well with the two valve cylinders. My compression is great at 180 across the board. Burns alittle oil but no bother really its been great so far. Got a total of 5 grand into this thing and havent even gotten it 30% done but money asie im loving my little max thanks for the tips and links.

Good to here it's getting better for you. But when your dealing with the huge power of 90 horse every thing comes into play. I know Finnie3D is getting 87 at the dyno on a stock engine. So thats pretty good for an old truck. These things were not built for raw power, more like a way to have higher emissions with out having to be registered as a car. But hey it's the look that you love, just like the rest of us.. :)

I love having something that rides like a small car but you can throw stuff in the back lol
I feel bad for you. I put $1000 into my engine and it's all brand new everything even rings and race bearings. I've probably got 2000-3000 in my truck and I've got new tires, new front suspension, redone transmission, new shocks and all the options you could get in 94 exept sunroof.

but you also work at a dealership and do all your own work - that saves big - I do agree the cost is high though.

If nobody noticed this is my issue

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skinnymane

Hey Mike I tried your technique with grounding the ecu and unfortunately I think I fried my ignition coil. I grounded it before it was running and now it wont start. I lost all spark from the coil. Could it be because I should have grounded it while it was running?

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Start the truck, then ground the plug. i don't know why you would loose the coil, all your doing is putting the ECU into a maintenance mode.

I see you blew a fuse in the truck that caused the lack of spark - so did you ground the plug the right way and get it timed?

I have no idea why it blew. But I looking in my Chilton and it says to wire it to a speed detection wire? Im very confused as to how to do it axactly. I want to ground it again but don't want to keep going back to oreilly.

sorry about the typos

But now I cant seem to get the thing started again. It is a lot closer to running again but we just cant get it to. We keep finding TDC and resetting the rotar. But to no avail. But now it is firing out of the intake. A fella dropped in to look at it and he said if its out of the intake we are closer than if it was backfiring from the exhaust. It was running yesterday but backfiring out of the exhaust like crazy.

make sure you're setting up the wires in the correct rotation.If you have them going in the wrong direction then 2 of the the plugs are firing at the wrong time causing them to backfire or pop through the carb or exhaust.

your truck is bitching at you, lol, Show her who's boss.

Now I am trying to replace my starter. This is probably the most annoying job ever. Anyone have any tips? I used the longest extension I could but could not reach either bolt. My buddy I suggesting we lower the tranny.

lmao, ready for skinned knuckles and cuss words?

I finally decided to crawl into engine compartment, arranged myself in a way that would win any game of twister and used a ratcheting open end/boxed end wrench from above engine. I did try the extension way and no luck loosening bolt, but did achieve a new record of dropping sockets on my head.:lmao:

Drill a hole in the fire wall in the correct place. It's a PIA. We know all to well. Fill over the hole with duct tape on one side and use black Roof flashing caulking from Home Depot on the other. It will dry hard and flexible. I used a urethane stuff on my build truck. Works good. Just keep in mind once open it will go bad in a couple of days so fix every hole and things around the house. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-...5228/100275495

I use 2 extensions and a universal joint. Try it with a scatter shield!

if you go the drill the hole route, get a body plug that matches the hole you are drilling - much cleaner and will look original. I have changed Geronimo's starter many times due to bad Autozone rebuilds - I have done it from underneath and from on top - under is a little easier, but still a PITA.

Well I finally got the bastard off. Now im crossing my fingers hoping that the starter I pulled from a 89 d50 will fit.

Yep he has a 2nd gen, there so dam tight. Compared to a first gen it's like day and night.
But has anyone herd from the guy that started this thread?

as long as its from a 2.6 and matches the tranny, you're good

you can also use a starter from a dsm I have a gear reduction starter from a 96 gst eclipse in my truck,

Well I didnt think there would be a difference between manual and auto starters. So it didnt work, too big. So I bought a new one anyway. Runs great now, Im so stoked. Still back fires a little but not as much. Im sure I will have some more questions soon enough but thank you guys a bunch for the help.

Some are 8 tooth, some are 9 right!

don't forget the long bolt goes on the top, or was that the bottom, no the top, uhhhh theres a long bolt?