Headers found on eBay for our Trucks

There is a place on eBay selling headers for our trucks at this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360669804559
Though the picture on this eBay ad is for the 2.0L G63B SOHC motor, they also have others.

eBay seller name & selling stats: rod_mph /3535 items sold/ 100% positive feedback

Attachment 5793
This particular header specs are as follows for the ones shown in this ad.
Mitsubishi L300 4cyl Petrol 2 & 4WD

Will fit all transmissions on all models.
The primary pipes are 1''5/8 and the secondary pipes are 1''3/4 with a 2''1/4 outlet.
The flange plates are laser cut from 10mm Australian Milled Steel.
All tube is 1.6mm thick not 1.2mm as most other extractors are
They are coated in a heat-proof paint.
All our products have 2 year warranty.

The BUY IT NOW PRICE is $180.00 Delivered FREE within Australia to your door.
Shipping to USA is $100 with a total cost of $280.00 Delivered. Takes about 10 days or less to deliver
eBay guarantees your purchases 100% and will refund all your money including shipping cost
if they don't arrive.

This price is proudly offered to you without having to compromise quality.
Our product is manufactured in our factory in Wollongong,
and we use only Australian Milled Steel.
We have 25 years experience designing and developing extractors.


These are very decent headers if your budget is like mine.
If you want a great customized pair of headers that are all custom made to order,
see the forums own designed headers.
Contact Camoit for information for the Tri "Y" headers


Update: If these will not fit your vehicle, contact rod_mph on the Australian ebay site version of ebay and ask if he has them available to fit your truck. As far as I know he can get just about any style for our trucks since they are more common in Australia. Rod_mph is a very great help and friendly Aussie. He answers every message within 24 hours and works with you the entire way. He even push my order to a faster service which he covered the cost to get the order to me for my B-day. Now that's great service.

O man, i might really have to consider this. My "uncles friend" took measurements off of my manifold when he welded the cracks on it and is supposedly going to weld me up a header during his spare time (as a favor to my uncle) but as of right now, I don't even have the ETA on that. If I end up getting these, I will post the install for sure.

woops, just realized it's not for my engine.

is the header tuned though is the big question. the picture shows the tubes being different lengths between all cylinders before they hit the y's. esspecially cylinders 2 and 4 looks like there is deffinently a difference in tube length. so, another big question... is this a power header or a torque header?? because if it is a power header you might as well have saved some money and got the pacesetter header then getting a look-a-like torque header that doesn't do the same thing.

Pacesetter doesn't make headers for this truck and have not for years. Pacesetter does not and probably will never make the headers for uneven paired port heads again for this truck, I have tried everything to find them, as well as speaking with pacesetter personally. They can't build them unless they get a large order to make it worth their wild. They still have the pipe bending diagrams though.
The header arrived today after only 7 days travel from Australia thru customs and to here. The header is more than I expected for sure. The metal is much thicker than prior headers I owned and for the pipes, after measuring the header parts they are exactly the same. So, I don't how you measured the picture for the lengths, but you must of calculated wrong. The welds are very strong looking and the plate to the head is 10mm thick which is very nice. No warping for sure.
As for the power or torque design, this really doesn't matter to me since my truck doesn't put out enough of either to even notice or measure those minute changes. All I know at this point is, the builder has been making them for over 25 years and Australian performance items are as good if not better then some of our own country items. They don't have to deal with our stupid smog laws on at such an inferior level. I will never have to deal with another cracked exhaust manifold made by Mitsubishi again, the price is...lets say...affordable for me! I really don't think either way of torque or power is going to make my truck a different truck that my seat of the pants will notice drastically. I know the mpg will be better right off, sound will be better from that casted iron boat anchor that was installed stock. So, until I put the header on I really don't know what it will do. As well, I probably will never know the exact performance of it because the truck is just a truck and bringing it to a dyno so I can get some fancy numbers is never going to happen. As for a cheaper header, I think I have done my research far and beyond what most people do. I have searched for literally years to find a header for this truck. There are just none to be found in the USA except those nice headers our forum creates. All in all, I am happy with what I purchased and I wouldn't hesitate a second to do it again. Having the header in my hands makes a big difference from a picture and these feel like they are built strong and will last longer then the truck will.

I need to take Izkeepitclean's truck up to Dom and have him make a header to fit the paired port. As the first one we built we were not satisfied with it. But I need to ether have him fallow me up there or I can put it on a trailer and bring it up there. But it will be finished up in the near future. The even port one powerRam348 put on worked out so that is a good jig. Now I just need to finish up the paired port.

I talked to the seller, "rod_mph" and he confirmed that they would also fit on the paired port 2.4 4g64. Just ordered mine. It was $273, including the shipping to southern california. If it takes a week to get here, I imagine I'd be putting them on by the end of next week so I'll take pics of how they look coming out of the box and the install. To be honest I wont be doing any dyno pulls and I'm not trying to build for crazy gains. Like bradmph, I was just looking for a nicer alternative than buying the stock iron manifold for $240. I've re-welded my stock manifold twice. I look forward to putting this on.

Link to images of header in gallery

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...hp?albumid=210

I have not installed yet, friggin auto parts stores have given up on stocking parts for our trucks and it finally hit home. Going to pick up exhaust gasket today and maybe install header to hear it. I need to start taking down my motor to have the bottom end done. I found a great shop with a friendly crew that will let me roam their shop all I want. They are into Hondas mostly, but are excited about doing my shortblock. All ASE mechanics and will guarantee the rebuild for 6 months for about $400. I need to get the parts as soon as they let me know what is required. They'll be balancing crank and all that stuff, I'll put rods & pistons on a tweakers scale and start shaving the skirts to get them matched. One of the pipes on the header is a bit shorter, not bad though. They have hidden some of the pipe length inside the first collectors so it may look worse then it really is. I'm satisfied though, I'll sell the old manifold, which is perfect.

The mailman dropped these off today. I ordered them last monday night, and they shipped last wednesday so they only took 5 days to get here from Australia. Gonna take em to my uncles tomorrow, drill in a little hole and hopefully one of his friends will have time to weld a nut on there for the o2 sensor. Do a little interior grindin' and hopefully be driving around with em tomorrow night! Then I'll post the butt-dyno report. ;)
Attachment 5928Attachment 5929Attachment 5930Attachment 5931Attachment 5932

^^^^let us know how it goes I might get a pair

You like them steen3rddensity? They arrived just like mine, Looked like a leg wrapped up.:lmao: Maybe that was why it took 2 extra days to get to Washington State. Actually the customs is right there in LA so you got a quick shipping. Well, they look good...hope they fit good too. Mine will need a little tweak and then be able to fit good. I can imagine the paint won't last long. Probable after it burns off I probably try the flat white paint or wrap them up to keep from burning my new alternator to hell.

I'm no header expert, but I think they look great. My uncle thinks they look good too. I was able to drop them off at his place tonight, and he's gonna have his friend do the sensor hole. I asked him about having to lengthen the sensor wire so it could get a reading at the bottom of the collection but he said not do that. He said that the sensor goes to the 1+4 Y because those are the first cylinders to fire. He also said he's going to have his friend weld some spacers on the o2 nut so the sensor just sticks in the header just by a fingertip so it wont block the flow and wont get dirty too fast. So, his friend is going to "finish" the header tomorrow and I'm going to help my uncle install it wednesday morning. We're def going to have to cut a few inches of exhaust pipe because the header is long and my uncle says we're going to put a sleeve connection. I'll be sure to take pics.

do you think he would have a set for 3.0 v6 4x4 4G64

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jeremy2.2

do you think he would have a set for 3.0 v6 4x4 4G64

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I think the correct model number is 6G72 for my engine

I've been driving around them for 1.5 day now and they're not done-done but its 95% finished. Let me tell you a story!

INSTALL
Attachment 6014
This is the header after it came back from my uncles weld guy. After talking to his weld guy, my uncle took back his statement about putting the o2 on that "first Y" and so the hole is down stream. But his guy put the wrong size nut on it, doh! oh well, my uncle put a re-threader nut thingy and it gives the sensor more distance so it's not sticking in the hole and blocking the passage.

Attachment 6008
The stock manifold is about as long as where the 4 pipes come together as "V's." There's a long section of pipe with some braided flexy stuff bolted between the cat and the stock manifold. (sorry forgot to take picture so im using a internet pic). My uncle just chopped and saved the end that bolts to the cat and then we'd have to come up w 13"ish inches of new piping.

Attachment 6015
The fit was tight... too tight... it didn't fit! (the downpipe section of the header). We took off the heat shield from the firewall and the heat shield just past that, right before the cat. My uncle banged the floor up some. It still barely fit. I'm talking about no clearance and it's practically touching the underside of the passenger thing.
Attachment 6016
There's a bump in the floor. It's a performance bump! (my dad and my girlfriend haven't even noticed, lol)

Attachment 6010
After all the banging of the floor, It fit! ports and bolts and everything matched up great.

Attachment 6009
It was getting late, his exhaust guy wasn't open, and I needed to get home. We went to autozone and put on this $7 flex "exhaust repair kit" pipe and clamped it between the header and the piece of pipe right before the cat so I could get it home and also drive to an exhaust guy in the morning. It was effed up but it was funny, the truck was loud as shit!

Attachment 6011
I took it to the exhaust guy yesterday morning and well, the verdict was it was still way too tight a fit to work on it. Our only solution was to heat up the header and bend it so there was enough clearance to even weld more pipe onto it. So, they bent it, and finished welding up the section of pipe that's supposed to go from the header to the cat. I had them throw in some of that braided flex section stuff too.

Attachment 6012
Attachment 6013
And this is what I'm running right now! It's at 95% done because we need to lengthen the wire for the o2 sensor and put that in still. My uncle plugged up the hole for now. We're going to re-install the firewall heat shield, and put some insulation on the section of pipe that's under the "performance bump." Depending on how much insulation and space we have to play with, maybe we can hammer some of that bump back down.

BUTT DYNO REPORT

I dunno, is this supposed to be a 10hp gain? 20? The truck feels freakin awesome and I didn't even change the rest of the exhaust yet. I had an up-pipe and a catback exhaust installed on my dad's wrx. I figured that would be 10ish hp? That felt good, but in no way was it as dramatic a change as the header on this baby mighty max. Maybe because percentage wise, a jump from 227 to 237 isn't as big as 116 to 126? Maybe my butt dyno isn't sensitive and I can't tell jack from 5 to 20 hp. All I know is that I'm pleasantly surprised about how these came out.

My girlfriend could really care less about what I do to my truck. She's cool just as long as it's running, clean, and I'm not spending too much money on it. lol. She actually used to complain about how "rough" the truck ran. She doesn't even know what a header is and what it's supposed to do, but seriously the first thing she said after a ride was "It runs so smooth now!"

I love this truck because the 2.4 is peppy, now the truck is super peppy. I can feel it big time in 2nd and 3rd gear. Acceleration is way smooth (backed up by girlfriends butt dyno). I wanna say that the power band feels bigger? It has some juice after 3k rpm, where as I used to shift at 3k. Maybe my memory of how I used to drive 3 days ago is shit and I'm making this up. I drove it on the freeway, of course accelerating on the on ramp is great and well, I guess I never really used to drive that fast on the freeway anyway because of the gear ratio so I can't honestly tell if I have those extra horseez there in 5th gear but definitely that "smoothness" is still there if I'm getting into the next lane to get around a slow poke. Torque tuned header? probably.

VERDICT
It's definitely more work than just dropping it in. I'm not even sure how much it would cost if you didn't work on it yourself and you took it to an exhaust guy. Some fitment and banging issues could be skirted if you bent the pipes before you tried to install. I'm sure there's guys who don't want to rebend them at all. I goofed and didn't take a picture of the header and the manifold-down system next to each other. I'm guessing you'd have to bend the header 2ish inches? I think that's how big my "floor performance bump" is.

I'm happy I paid for these instead of the crappy stock manifold (which would've almost cost as much). Oh yeaaaa and another thing, when we took the old manifold out, it had a crack in it, again! We had already welded it twice previously. You just can't reweld cast iron i guess. And since nobody is making paired port manifolds for these trucks anymore and I'm not the richest guy, these are a great option. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

When you were installing the headers, did you drop them down through the engine compartment or up from under the truck?

Did you have to extend the wires for the O2 sensor?

ya, i have to extend the o2, but still haven't done that yet. we dropped the headers in from the top.

The header looks like its dropping in price on ebay for US
AU $180.00
Approximately US $165.74
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360675317503

Man I am all excited now after reading your reviews. The muffler shop I took mine to said I had to mount it on head first so they can bend it because they didn't want to stick it in a vise or clamp and ruin it. What I want them to do is remove that last 2 pipe collector on the end and make the pipes side by side instead of the over and under. Bringing the top pipe down along side of the already lower pipe. Then reweld or make a new collector end.
I see your paint didn't last long either, which is bound to happen. That flex wire pipe you have is a great idea and I'm going to follow that up as well. I need to replace my exhaust pipe, so I'll have them put a wider diameter pipe to fit over collector then run flow master and dump it after rear axle. Duel exhaust ported muffler would be nice for duel exhaust. One pipe in, 2 pipes out of muffler.
I luv that performance bump, lol who drives from the passenger side anyway, maybe the Ausies, but not us lol.
Can't wait, after I get my rebuilt shortblock back from machinist and put together it should be fun. Check your mixture settings and make sure not to lean now.
Maybe pass on the changes to Rod_mph also about bending for US versions. I already informed him of my issue and it sounds just like yours. They need to adjust the jig a little bit.

It seem like the reason for the tight fit is the difference in block height from the 2.0 to 2.4

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rahtid

It seem like the reason for the tight fit is the difference in block height from the 2.0 to 2.4

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Bro, that's a great observation. Definitely something to keep in mind and put on record.

The blocks can't be that different in hight. Only a couple of thousand of an inch. But then again IDK what the block specs are.
I guess you will know when the motor mounts get worn. It will start knocking on the floor in Morse code.

They aren't that different like Camoit said, I have the 2.0 and will have to put a slight tweek in the header. More like an inch maybe to get it to fit comfortably at the end of the collector from the floorboard. Muffler shop said bring it in with attached to head so they have something to have braced while the heat up the last bend in the pipe.

I want to change it to what it shows in the lower image, but we'll see what muffler guy says.
Attachment 6045

I believe it is like 6mm

When I get the boards paired port header finished I'll keep in mind to keep it just a little lower to give more clearance to the floor board.

That is awsome. Just to not as well, since we are getting these from AUS, they also have the direct bolt on top mount turbo manifolds on their cars from the factory over there. Last time I checked for a used one was about $150 shipped. Never got around to doing it since I sold the truck, but its good to know, maybe this same seller can get some of those, or makes them as well.

PS: They have the stock MHI style turbo mounting as well. T25, 14B, 13G, 16G, 20G...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Maybe pass on the changes to Rod_mph also about bending for US versions. I already informed him of my issue and it sounds just like yours. They need to adjust the jig a little bit.
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I want to change it to what it shows in the lower image, but we'll see what muffler guy says.
Attachment 6045

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Send him this picture and show him what we need here. :)

OK, so just to make sure This will fit my 1993 2.4L right?

If you got that paired port 4g64, they'll fit on ur engine. You're going to have to modify the passenger side floor board, make a new connection to the cat, drill in an o2 port and lengthen the wires for that, if ur into that smog stuff.

Rod said he would make the changes for USA versions of the header. Just going to have to communicate with him. He is a very friendly Aussy and I am sure he will do what is needed to help out. Its just a simple jig adjustment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BradMph

Rod said he would make the changes for USA versions of the header. Just going to have to communicate with him. He is a very friendly Aussy and I am sure he will do what is needed to help out. Its just a simple jig adjustment.

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Has anybody followed up on this? I am very interested in a 4G64 size version of these, preferably with a bung hole. :)

Hey - no talking like that - this is a family forum... LOL

Does anyone have a spare 2.0 uneven spaced header they do not want anymore? willing to buy asap