been way too long!

Well, it seems I'm green with envy. A co worker/friend just bought himself a new toy
Attachment 5532Attachment 5533
355 C.I. 400+Hp and it's built right and clean, $5K.

That being said, it's time to rock again as soon as my upgrades arrive then I'll paint my bed the 97 Chevrolet "cobalt red" to match the cab since I'm taking the bed off again.
Attachment 5534
I'm so cramped for room under the box with all my suspension parts only a 1 gallon air tank for now since I am still static up front
Attachment 5535
Firestone "continuous duty cycle"
Attachment 5536
Air engine control valves, fully adjustable speed "drop" or "raise"
Attachment 5537
Ultra low Spectre plenum (clearance needed from top of carburetor to hood 1.9") "even at that I'm pushing it with clearance" (I do believe I was starving the engine for air, we'll see)
These days things are crazy expensive, I don't want crappy products on my truck.

I've been around here a couple of times lately and I'll be around more if I've got any questions.

Hehe, that sun comes out and so does the desire to tinker.

Was out enjoying that weather today, as well. Won't last though, Rose Festival starting soon! Rain til July, guaranteed.

Good to see you still tinkering on the truck rickdees. Post updates when you can

Acuta73, Spoken like a true Oregonian. I wouldn't bet against you.

Josh, great to see your still around. You got a BMW now, nice!

Update, the goodies are arriving. The Plenum is on back order, due date 5/22. The air motors are fabulous (Airbagit) and the gauge and air control is a "nice unit" but wrong.
Attachment 5543

Attachment 5586
I really hate the exhaust pointed down giving me that Yard blower effect on a 15 year old gravel drive way, next complaint the Rumble under the truck and lastly how ugly it looks.

Attachment 5585
I've been brain storming trying to get the exhaust out from under the truck. Sounds stupid but I must cross and tie the tail pipe to get out. You see where I need to be and the notch I already cut out for clearance.
Attachment 5584
It would be a tad easier if the stinking fuel tank wasn't there, but the brace is my heart burn for now.
Here's what I've been thinking and I do always over build things.
Question: Should I add cross bracing?

Cut it all off then just dump it under the cab(i know leaf blower effect still)

Can you run the pipe under the axle then do an S bend using 2 45 degree elbows to run along the frame beside the gas tank to dump out the back. Fill the bags to their full height and see if there is clearance, then dump the bags and see if they would scrape. I almost ran into the same problem so I put the mufflers under the cab and modified the middle x-member to pass the pipes through.

Attachment 5587

I read your post a couple days ago. That looks nice and clean, did you have those ceramic coated?
You made me think about a Y under the cab, then going single out is my best move.
One of those times of, I couldn’t see the forest because of the trees. The thought of cutting that cross member is gone.

I’m running small catalytic converters and their under the cab.
Oregon, these old trucks still have to pass DEQ, so the first time I made a slip on with spring clips a dual to single tail pipe so they wouldn’t have to crawl under the truck and reveal it’s not stock.
(It’s a closed hood inspection and just needs to blow 86 emissions standards, so I play it safe.)
Deflated with it on I can lay (my hack job) exhaust pipe.

Yep after 20+ hrs laying out the exhaust I had the whole system ceramic coated inside and out except the mufflers. The original system was a duel 2.5" kicked to the passengers side into a duel in/out muffler then dumped under the box in the factory location. OMG was that annoying at 65MPH@ 2100rpm the drone was freaking stupid.I love how many people freak out with the new set up dumping out the lower front 1/4 panel of the box and I don't have to worry about crushing the tips on a speed bump.

Attachment 5594

You'll figure out something just might take some time to lay it out.

Amazing how long you lay under a truck just staring and thinking no doubt I am a professional procrastinator.
The way I figure it is orange county choppers can do it I can too, but you must start somewhere even if you do it wrong the first time, you can do it again.
So with a zip cut disc on the grinder you start some where even if you screw crap up, I didn't but I’ve be working metal for a long time so this took me a couple hours, even less if I hadn’t loaned my plasma to a friend but now I really need it to notch the cross member. I do have friends with tubing benders but no dies to fit 2 1/4" and using a pipe bender crumples, dings, and flat out squishes exhaust pipe. As you can see

Attachment 5608Attachment 5609Attachment 5610

Lookin good man! Keep up the good work!

Thanks man, I read up about what you're going to do with your truck and I know what you're going to experience, I'd suggest dry sump like the corvette has. The steering and oil pan was huge problem for me while the Ford and Dodge engines fit with no problem
(Chevy rear sump, Ford/Dodge front sump). But we all know building a custom is truck, #1. it's your truck. #2. is a learning experience. #3. time consuming.



This weekend is all about time consuming, About 20 hours later here's where I'm at.
5 sets of flanges and ended up with 6 pieces of removable exhaust with no use of a saws all.
I still need hangers but this is ready to weld.

That set up looks like it should work good for you.My original set up was almost the same as that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rickdees

Thanks man, I read up about what you're going to do with your truck and I know what you're going to experience, I'd suggest dry sump like the corvette has. The steering and oil pan was huge problem for me while the Ford and Dodge engines fit with no problem
(Chevy rear sump, Ford/Dodge front sump). But we all know building a custom is truck, #1. it's your truck. #2. is a learning experience. #3. time consuming.



This weekend is all about time consuming, About 20 hours later here's where I'm at.
5 sets of flanges and ended up with 6 pieces of removable exhaust with no use of a saws all.
I still need hangers but this is ready to weld.

---

What did you end up doing to resolve your problem? Im thinking about recessing the engine into the firewall to clear the steering or figure out a dry sump system haha

Hay Rick, If for some reason the system puts your attachment into moderation again please send me a PM. IDK why it did that but I'm looking into it.

Believe me when I say, I tried like hell to stay stock.
My resolve was I cut the stock IFS off and put a 74 Pinto Ifs under it. I had to make strut pockets that look like crap on the frame but eventually I’ll cut those off when I get upper and lower tubular A arms with air bag shocks.
Well, that’s my intention anyway. Oh and headers is another nightmare. I included pictures of old resolves.

A dry oil sump isn’t something you just throw together and their not cheap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YzY8DhlnUw
I know for a fact the guys who run the Fords and Dodge engines don’t have the issues Chevy’s do during installs of the rear sump, But it’s why we call them custom trucks.

It doesn't sound like a V8 but, Oh it sounds so quite with no rattles or leaks that I can hear.


I'm thinking I need to move my battery being it's in the way of the room and cool air I desperately need for the air plenum and I'm still clueless on the placement the air compressor, air valves and tank. After 5 days off on vacation I'm freakin beat, I got to get back to work so I can rest.

I've been busy, I was trying to put all this where the other muffler was and I got stumped, My kids pointed out that I had so much room back here (another moment of, I couldn't see the forest because of the trees). I also fixed my transmission mount bolt holes that I stripped out, love them Heli coils, they are slick. I found 2 bumps stops off a Honda that I scrapped out and put them over my top links bars to rest on, so now my truck is also part Honda.
@ 120 psi 6 3/4" lift at the compressor, 100 psi 6 1/4" lift.
I do have some 1/8" aluminum diamond plate that I'm going to surround the air compressor and fuel pump, for one, to keep the compressor dry and 2 the noise. It's easy to say, just got to do it some how?
The fuel pump was on inside of the frame where exhaust heat now is.

Vary nice work. I went and got some MSD rubber stand offs and mounted my compressor on them,the compressor it not very loud when running now

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedi.../8823_full.jpg

good to see new pics rick. When are you planning on bagging the front?

Thanks brother, I had been thinking about mounting a 1/8"or 1/4" aluminum plate on something similar then the compressor on it. That is exactly what I'm looking for! Again waiting on parts and it makes me wonder how much shipping fees I paid in the last 9 years.

I'm thinking about another change up front with the radiator, I couldn't tell you how many hours I have in building that contraption. But have you seen where this guy mounted his radiator? In front of the core support
This is a very nice truck but he needs a limited slip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNfn6K1P1Vw

Hey Ethan,
It’s good to hear from you. Honestly I haven’t drove it that much, but the last time I did I needed 8 sheets of ½“ sub flooring on it, needless to say this post pretty much sums up what happened that day. You go back and do it right.
I remember you’re the only one that ever said you didn’t like the strut pockets I scabbed on and I didn’t argue with you, they are ugly. But since you live so freakin far away, I can only tell you that it drives and handles nice, none of the ‘Gee’ and ‘Ha’ on our crappy Oregon freeways only using a finger it wants to go straight.
The airbag shocks I know, the low end are 699.00 and the tubular A arms are still about 400.
I still have a huge to do list. The only time I think about those strut pocket is when I see them.
For now, Let’s just say I’ve been thinking about them since you discovered we didn’t like them.
But they do got to go!
What's Ethan driving now and what happened to the red Isuzu?

yeah those air struts are pretty pricey. I drive a 1990 honda accord now (sort of, the timing belt broke last year and bent all the valves so I'm back in my toyota pup for now). I have a thread in the other automotive section. I had to sell the isuzu unfortunately to make room in the driveway for the honda when it's motor went. But I should be ordering my new engine and trans on monday so I hope to have it on the road again soon.

Well I can officially tell you it was NOT the ignition switch that went bad, not three times. As I was searching for the problem I realized that I served myself a nice plate of wire spaghetti, after I pulled the seats and carpet to follow the console and tail lights , fuel sender loom. The STOCK Black wire with yellow stripe comes to a plug and turns 180 degrees and runs right back out the firewall. Nice goose chase Mitsubishi!
After a all day search, I find the white 3mm alternator wire came off the positive battery terminal, no power to the cab, no power period. But I’m now happy, happy, happy!
Attachment 5902
I cut this from the rectangular tubing, I figured the grained looked wood match the dash stainless. This is a 400 finish and much to fine
Attachment 5903
Airbagit tried to bone me, this is their loom they sale with their air valve kit. They suggested to just tape over the cuts. I came unglued on them for even suggesting that on a 9 year old truck build. It’s a junk wire loom and the wires are as big as telephone wire, if not it is! Once I told them to stop blowing smoke up my rear end they said they would replace it. The problem is their loom wire is smaller then the air valve wiring so I’m not using it.

Just because it's hot I haven't stopped working on the truck, I have just a few thing more to do like drill and tap the link bars for grease fittings. Everything but one thing is wired and fully functional. I do not need to move the battery as of yet as you can see the plenum is over kill but this is the lowest sitting plenum in the world and it's made freaking China. Yes, it get's my goat, it's exactly America's problem, that and Obama. Oh wait, we're talking trucks not the sad state of our failing nation.
I've ironed out many things, truly to paint the colbalt red on the box isn't that far away!

Looking good Rick

Thank you, I've been reading your thread, your truck "is" what I call a cream puff, sweet! I don't see many around here in Oregon. The last one, it took me years but I finally I followed him home and talked with the guy. Some old man, I mean a guy a little elderly than myself. lol

Probably has more cream then puff though. Do you follow people to their house much? (checking rearview mirror more often) lol

What size is your carb?

It's the small edelbrock, I think it's a 550 or 600 (The plenum is definitely over kill).
My friend is the original owner and loves his beer, I spent at least 10 hours shampooing the seats and door panels. I guess spilt beer is a preservative, not bad at all for 27 years old. I also removed the mirror from the wood slat I had stuffed where the head liner should be.

love the wink mirror brackets - but I think I would miss the visors. At one time I mounted a wink mirror in Geronimo so that the visors functioned, butI can't remember how I did it.

I hear you on the sun visor, my sons friend does tinting and my visors weren’t foam anymore, just dust.
I’ll throw two hats in the glove box for the both of us and my old Vuarnets in for you.

Again, My son (the same) is getting his other friend to re-upholster my interior, I pay for material, I fix his jeeps 4 wd linkage.
I have a set of Ricaro seats I’m thinking about using they set lower about 2” and the rail are the same length and 2 holes need to be relocated and with the same leg room. Thinking black and red.
Also as you can see I started these this morning, the drivers side is fit in place yet so it’s just sitting there.
I'm Trying to get to the cool air and stay out of the hot, I’ve heard K&N filters don’t take the heat very well.
Just kicking ideas around while waiting for parts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pennyman1

love the wink mirror brackets - but I think I would miss the visors. At one time I mounted a wink mirror in Geronimo so that the visors functioned, butI can't remember how I did it.

---

The mountings that come with the wink mirror in my install allowed the visors to work fine. If not mounted right the mirrors vibrate and can be irritating.

Still tinkering, the other night I watched the battery drain for hours with zero fuses in the panel and the breaker off. I unplugged the small wire on the alternator. At 11 pm 12.85volts, an hour later 12.76v, then at 6am 12.69v,
9am 12.67 and 4:30 pm 12.67. Notice from 9am to 4:30 pm ZERO voltage drop. Good news but, why?
I'm liking it so far, but I'm still tinkering. Always use cardboard to build stuff FIRST if you can, it's easier to tape something you cut off then it is to weld something back together.

My wink never shuttered on the 1/4 x 1-1/2" wood slat slid between the gap where the headliner goes. I injured my neck and shoulder 9 years ago. I like my winky, no blind spots and I don't really want to turn my head.

You have the old yellow plates on that thing??!?! DAMN YOU! Every new plate they come out with is harder to see what it is/uglier... Oregon I think wins the award for the nation's fugliest plates. California and Washington get some kind of award for looking the same.

Really like those air boxes/heat shields you built. Consider wrapping the manifolds/headers? Comes with downsides, but.

As far as the low voltage leak. Try running one of those high-end grounding kits? Have about a dozen grounding straps and instructions. Beyond that, chase wires til you find the one hot connection you didn't insulate well. Happy side is, it will be on the battery circuit not ignition. Is a bit odd it will drain in the cooler time of the day, but not the warm. You expect expansion during the day connecting things that weren't touching, not the opposite.

What it the voltage drop across the top of the battery? Put one probe on a post, the other on the top of the battery. You should have no more then 1 volt. Any more and the battery needs to be cleaned. Have you tried the test with the alternator disconnected? Thats normally the main cause of a leek. One more thing to try is to disconnect the battery completely and re test. It could have a plate shorting out internally.

I had that problem that Camoit explained. Positive post actually broke loose somehow inside the battery and couldn't figure out why battery kept croaking intermittently until the post started to get a bit of a wiggle. Slightly bulged on sides of battery can show a slow death battery.
Car alarms can do weird stuff if grounding out somewhere too.

I've got a ground on the trans to frame, engine to fire wall, engine to frame and battery to engine. IMO, the header wraps look terrible and rought out the headers is the "but" . I'd like to have them ceramic coated, the whole exhaust but.
My sons reactions when they seen the boxes, one was taking pictures and texting them. Over the years I built two sled boats, one flat bottom and a 3 inch V bottom for fishing spring nook (we killed them back then), but explaining why aluminum. Making something out of nothing but time is good.
Building this truck is mostly scrap, basic shapes and sizes.

I just bought a new 850 cold cranking gell battery 3 weeks ago.
Today, I re routed the msd leads away from any wires, and no it won't start, I tried. I didn't go and pick up the new magnetic pick up. I've been busy doing this.
Boxes are good to go other then paint, everyone says red inside the boxes to match the engine, black on the out.
I knew I had to trim the underside brace of the hood for the plenum for clearance, I put this off for a long time wondering will it go well. I find some love in plumbers putty, as you'll see, it's not just for plumbers. Using it I trimmed the outside of the boxes down to a nice 3/16 gap from touching the hood.
These picture are the gap between the hood and plenum, a 1/4". To make this look like this on average it takes about seven putty jobs and 7 grinds to get Perfect!

I did some more trimming under the hood to get clearance, the plenum is thin material.
As I said I'm using plumber putty to see where to it needs to ground.

Probably are already aware of it, but Clackamas Steel over here sells scrap metal by the pound (ferrous and non-ferrous both). Cheap. Lots of odds and ends of various shapes and sizes.

Interesting use of the putty. Could probably use lamp black or that blue stuff used in gunsmithing I always forget the name of, too.

Oh yeah, Clackamas Steel I am well aware of. They were cheap but not anymore, I bought a couple of pieces of ret. tubing and some small pieces of 1/4'' plate. I about Chit my pants, but what are you going to do? Don't forget about the Steel Yard on Columbia blvd.
When your cutting blind holes your forced to think outside the box. There not bad grinds for being in a blind enclosed area.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rickdees

Still tinkering, the other night I watched the battery drain for hours with zero fuses in the panel and the breaker off. I unplugged the small wire on the alternator. At 11 pm 12.85volts, an hour later 12.76v, then at 6am 12.69v,
9am 12.67 and 4:30 pm 12.67. Notice from 9am to 4:30 pm ZERO voltage drop. Good news but, why?

---

I'll tell you why just not yet. I back tracked, double backed and I'm on track, the wiring is good. I was getting a 4 amp draw, how? the battery charger told me the draw/drain. It was time to start disconnecting, I just happen to start @ the 'why?' and it happen to be the alternator.
The underneath the bed is finished for now the bed is back on and I say it runs at about 210 ish degrees in temp, I figure if it can't sit in the garage on a hot freakin day it won't handle a traffic jam in Portland. It was do or die, no blown hoses and no coolant on the floor the next day that I discovered a dead battery.
Diode or something in the alternator, I read about it, and I'm not that repair man.

its the reg in the alternator - exchange it or have it rebuilt. Go to an alternator repair shop, not a parts store - all those are low bidder rebuilds that may take several to get one that lasts.

Yep, it was charging but also draining the battery the back was warm with the key off. I've been reading up, it's the CS130D 105 amp alternator. Cs130d and Cs130 are the problem child of GM.
It's bad news when they offer roadside assistance part of the warranty, This make 2, how many is your several? lol

I'm adding a 8 gauge wire with a fuse from alternator to battery and NOT removing the Heavy white wire on the stock harness. Seams redundant but the stock harness runs in to the cab to fusable links and back out the battery, But alternator "generator" builders highly recommend this for better charging ability.
Attachment 6312Attachment 6318

You can change pulley's from a serpentine to a v-belt for a upgrade on four bangers such as our trucks including getting all kind of mounting brackets to select from , but use the 144 or alternators that need a 1/0 wire to run them without burning your truck up. You know for those guys with huge stereo amps or the 4x guys using electric winches using this adaptor and One wire off the L to the idoit light, but this has a resistor on it so no light is needed or remove the resistor and use a warning/idiot light (Both are not needed or suggested). In the alternator picture, the heavy red wire from the plug, the sensor wire, some say not to do it this way because it will fool itself (the alternator) in thinking it's working and pat itself on the back while your battery suffers the loss. Place this at furthest drain on the system so reads there, not at the source charging the system.
Hense, keeping the battery fully charged, while fulfilling your amperage pull/drain. Did I make any sense?
Attachment 6319Attachment 6313Attachment 6314

I ordered two 12" Mishimoto slim puller fans 988cfm,
Attachment 6317

Some digital gauges, better anyway.
Attachment 6315
I don't know how to post a decent thread to make it look good, but at least I did try.

I have that same model GM and just had it rebuilt after 13 years - it was built then with the best partsavailable at the time. Now it has even better parts and should go 15-20 years or more with extreme duty replacement diodes and regulator. GM used way undersized parts that fry from the heat

It seems Christine is road worthy:)), and yes it took that long to get the bugs out. I installed the digital volt meter before returning the alternator, I like the fact that it blinks when and if the alternator fails or over charges. They are freaking bright and dim when you turn your light's on.

New fan added, it's rather close but close isn't hitting and cools fantastic.
We're going to see how long this last with no foam pads. SpeedwayMotors is now selling double pass radiators for $179, that's twenty dollars more then I paid 5 years ago for a single pass.
Attachment 6386
THIS DIAGRAM IS WRONG for our trucks using the CS130D alternator
Attachment 6387
This is also WRONG, this isn't the one they sent me (I have this one) it's a single wire plug using the L, and also ground the alternator to battery.
Attachment 6388
Now DEQ and licensing or Join a car club and get Oregon "Special" Plates (not a daily driver) and be done with it?
Hm, $120 every two years, provided it doesn't go up! or $20 for ever and then have fun?
Our choices are sometime obvious.

Now that I know AC Iridium sparks plugs don’t run on my MSD 6A and a new blaster coil it was still running rich. So I did more changes like re set my floats and smaller metering jets
Going off the Edelbrock tuning chart for my 1403. (a 500cfm on a Vortec 4.3 V6)
.086” metering jets and .065”x .052” metering rods came in the carburetor.
I’m now running off the chart at #11 .083” jets with the .065”x.052” metering rods
The way I’m checking the richness is putting my hand under the exhaust tail pipe and then smelling my hand. Lol, don’t sniff the tail pipe. it's smells much cleaner but not too lean. (it doesn't gag you)
I’ll wait for dark then I’ll start it up and look at the headers, one glowing hotter than the rest is a lean condition or pre ignition in that cylinder, Am I correct?

A friend gave these wire looms, only their for a v8. The clean look, I like. The holley fuel regulator and gauge was removed, my fuel pump(napa p-4070) has a built in regulator.
Attachment 6531Attachment 6532
I bought a three gauges from Intellitronix, they made these gauge so simple to install even a dummy could it. To bad I bought three already but count me in, I’m eventually going digital, the cost really isn't that bad

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6Khujsqt7Y

500 cfm is too large for a 4.3 - go to Holley's website and run their carb sizing tool - you will be amazed at what it comes up with - more likely a 390 or smaller.

Yeah I knew that when I bought it, The first year thru DEQ shocked me that it breezed thru.
But a 390 cfm can't deliver the air needed to get the best out of a 4.3.
I know I can pass if I retard the timing I see that in my slips they give me.
Guy's are running these 500cfm's on smaller engines like the 259 and 272 V8s with great success, just jetted down.
I've read I could need to go down to a .080 jet. I'm just not there yet but it is running better.

Attachment 6770
So my fuel mixture is getting better with wide open throttle response and sideways second gear but with a bog at the opening of the secondary’s letting it shift by itself, but not when I shift it manually.
I’m going off their chart, I’m now running @ #10 on the chart with .083 jets with.067 x.055 metering rods.
On the chart #1 the metering rods are .0.21” x .034” smaller then the jets.
The primary of the metering rods is the second # which is the part of the idle circuit.
In keeping with the base factory fuel mixture settings ( .021 x .034) from what I been reading I now need to move to the vacuum plunger spring that pushes the metering rods to smaller end (.021 secondary).
I ordered a spring kit and another set of jets .080” and metering rods .059”x .046” going down I'm off their chart and there’s only one more down sized set of jets I can go.
I guess I should mention I am using a digital thermometer checking the header temperature at each port for too much heat.

I went back to #1 setting on the chart and no doubt this engine likes it. There's no doubt by dropping a catalyst to single exhaust destroyed my DEQ emission test. So,I had a car recently die with 18 months of good tags so I swapped the plates to the truck, legally.
The other night the 4.3 gave me surprise while rounding a slight turn when it hit second gear and dam near swapped ends. That was fun, I had no choice but get to get out of it and will say it tested my watts linkage, hard.
I had no poop stains though it was a surprise and now wish I had power steering.