Ok, im new and happy to be here, o I just bought myfirst ram 50,sf4x4, 2.6. The truck runs and drives great, but has no power on hills, its almoat like the two barrel isnt working right, any answers or help would be great
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Ok, im new and happy to be here, o I just bought myfirst ram 50,sf4x4, 2.6. The truck runs and drives great, but has no power on hills, its almoat like the two barrel isnt working right, any answers or help would be great
Welcome to the site,you will get answers later tonight from the old heads ! I have fuel injection, so I'm no help
Lol, I think the secondary throttle actuator is bad but im not 100% sure, all I,know is when its running I can only see fuel onone barrell,
Crack the throttle and see if the secondary opens
Ive done tgat, with the truck off or on, it only opens if I do it manually at the tgrottle actuator
But yes I can get the secondary throttle plate open
What size tire are you using. Many times people put on a bigger tire just to loose power. Check tomming and replace the O2 sensor to start with. Also look for vacuum leeks. But the tire is a BIG factor.
Factory size, I just replaced the o2, & ive check, listend, and sprayed fir vaccume leaks
Ive also messed with timing, and the cat , I tested it and it checks out good
New plugs, wires, cap, all filters
Ok, so I just put a vaccume pump on the secondary throttle actuator with the engine off and it would not hold any vaccume presure
Any comments or help would be awesome
hey crock welcome to the forum! hope u enjoy the resources and when u got some time upload some pix of ur rig.
now on to ur issue. try searching in the manual section of our board. tons of information there including the haynes manual, which is pretty detailed and illustrated. in the mean time i searched around for u and found this older thread where one of our members had a similar issue but on a '88. read the thread...post #4 especially. here ya go: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ort-identifier
Thank ya, and that was actually the post that got me on here, abd the one that helped me
ur welcome bro. hope that helped.. did u get it figured out?
Ok, so I replaced the secondary actuator, got both barrels workin, but now when I hammer down it boggs?
Is the choke sticking?
check the accelerator pump to see if its working - it should shoot out a shot of fuel into the secondary when the throttle is rotated fully.
How do I check? The vaccume line that was going to it has no vaccumr so I put a constant one off of somewhere on the carb and the secinday opens and works jus feels likes its overloading with fuel at high rpms
Look in the secondary barrell and turn the throttle cable by hand until it opens while looking in
180000 on motor, could it be a worn cam lobe?
With engine off the secondary dont open unless I do it manually, how do I check the choke and accel pump?
gotta have it running when you check it
ok, so start it, rev up untill secondary opens, look in and see if I can see a shot of fuel?]
x2 on that the pump is actuated with an arm mechanically linked to the secondary on the carb.
I just looked and fuel is going to secondaty
Yep, and I hope that you can get your problem fixed
re check your timing. 8 deg. base. If it pings then back it down. Does it feel like it's running out of gas?
I just did it and there is fuel going into second barrell
Did you check the vacuum lines going from the carb into the box on the drivers side inner fender? they rot off or mice get in there and cause a huge vacuum leak. Also clean out the egr valve located below the carb on the front of the intake manifold.
ok, what else could it be?
Yeah, all vaccume lines look good, ill check egr and timing for sure
Could the cam be worn? The rockers tap a lil but it runs, idles starts fine
And camoit, not until you hit higher rpms for a extended time, it putters and im not sure if its starving or overloading
And only when you drive it, if its parked it revs fine with no,puttering
i think its choking it w/ too much fuel.. i wonder if its that "constant vacuum line" u said u pulled from somewhere else and plug it into the secondary cuz the one that was there initially u said didnt have vacuum.
well it doesnt hace vaccume, but like it doest pour fuel out of secon sexondary untill you hit thr throttle
What could stop the vaccume? Could it br a worn out cam?
its hard to tell w/out seeing it and tryin to diagnose it. did u check all the vacuum lines like others have suggested on here already?
Yeah, all of em look good, i just orded the weber carb, id like to keep the mikuni if I can
it probably just has to be tuned and tweaked a lil bit. about the weber, a lot of ppl put them on these trucks and since u already ordered one might as well install it.Quote:
Originally Posted by crock1990
Will it improve gas mileage/power?
well its new and an upgrade so i imagine it should, especially if tuned right.. but I've nvr ran weber so idk. search the forum and u'll see theres topics about those carbs in here.
Have you installed a new fuel filter located between the cab and the box of the truck? A fuel filter that's getting clogged can cause lack of power and bogging when accelerating.
Yeah, all filters are new, and fresh tune up
Wgats that plate on drivees side of block under the intake? Its poueing oul?
Thats a pressure relief hole on the fuel pump - it means the fuel pump blew out from excessive back pressure and it is pumping oil out of the head. That confirms the fuel pump was part of the problem - now time to replace it with an electric one.
I cant really tell where its leaking from, the whole sidw of the block is covered in oil, the plate has 2 bolts, and is abt 12 in long... What caused the bwck pressure and how do I do away with the mechanical one? & when I saw pouring its 3 quarts every 30 miles
And its more towards tge back of the block, closer to the firewal
The plate with the 2 bolts is the silent shaft cover. If you have an oil leak there remove the cover and any gasket material that's stuck on. Clean the block and cover with brake cleaner or acetone to remove any oil residue. Install a new gasket using a light film of silicone gasket sealer on both sides.
I wonder if my 3.0 has that plate,because I have oil on my passanger side of my block, and I have new valve cover gasketsQuote:
Originally Posted by crock1990
Mine is on my drivers side, I took it off, it was dry insede, I saw some type of shaft... Not sure what it was. But I started it abd thats when the oil cane out, cleaned it up with degreaser, put gasket maker all around the plate and we will see tmrw!
When you said it was leaking on the side of the block by the intake, I thought it was running down from the pump onto the side of the block, not from the balance shaft cover. Sorry for the mistake about the leaking pump, but I still stand by replacing the fuel pump with the electric.
How do I do away with the mechanical
remove it and make a cover to fill the hole then seal it off. Use the gasket or fuel pump spacer as a template. You can use aluminum, steel, or even plexiglass to make the blockoff plate.
And use a electric one on the frame?
Yes but any electric pump will need to be as close to the tank as you can get it. Normally with in 1 foot. The easy place is under the filler pipe on the frame. Look for a post by Mopar_JA and how he did his.
Is thete a gasket for that side plate? If so anyone got the part#
its actually an o ring type gasket that fits in the groove in the cover. You should be able to use form a gasket and get it to seal.
Theres a website that sells rebuilt mikuni carbs for like 200$ &now I cant find it
so did u get it fixed? how's it run?