Printable View
So my question is, Is it possible for anything in transmission to cause the motor to lock up??
I just rebuilt motor with new timing belt and components, head gasket, balance shaft elimination, jet valve elimination, added weber, all new ignition components. I started truck, sounded good for a bit, then i reved a bit nothing major and a loud knocking noise started so i turned it off. Started it again noise got louder so i pushed in clutch pedal it made a wierd clunking noise and motor seized.
maybe the flywheel or pressure got loose,and its wedged in the bellhousing
well ill be taking trans out soon so ill let you guys know. It better be transmission or Im gonna Blow the truck up
Well it turns out that number 4 rod came apart and bottom of rod went thru the block.......So after all the good I have spoke about these trucks it blew up in my face............
Thats bad news bud. Sorry to hear that . What was wrong with the engine that made you rebuild it to begin with? Did the rod break or did the cap bolts fail?
Well when I bought it, it had really no power to it, very very poor acceleration......so i just tore into it right away. no noise on way home. It got new everything.....I didnt touch rods crank or pistons......new oil pump, timing, ignition, fluids, gaskets, and a few performance changes. I havent looked at anything other then the bottom of rod out the block......ill post pic soonQuote:
Originally Posted by crvtec90
Attachment 3450
This is what I c
New oil pump?
Get us some picts of the other rod bearings. I have a feeling it was oil starved.
Yep....brand new oil pump
Ill get some picts tomorrow.......Ill be very pissed if it was a faulty oil pump............Also think im gonna get my other max on the road instead of fixing this one. My 87 max has a 2.6 with 5 speed that came from somewhereelse and has a cracked block.....(in 2 places) it kept running great after the first crack i decided to go for another
did you pack or prime the pump? Bottom ends fail if there is no oil or a bolt came loose. To ensure a prime you would use a drill to spin the pump.
The oil pump has to spin pretty fast to pump oil through the it. I prefer issuing the fitting on the intake manifold to brake booster. Or you can buy yourself a new fitting. Remove the oil pressure switch/sending unit from the oil filter housing, double check thread pitch with the fitting if you got one already, screw the fittig into the oil pressure switch/sending unit location, use a fluid pump and pump it into the fitting.
Didnt prime it, but i packed it with grease before installQuote:
Originally Posted by camoit
So i blew up my own truck.......awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by 4doorciv
Packing it with grease should have worked - are you sure the balance shaft belt that drives the oil pump didn't come off or lose teeth?
the timing belt runs the oil pump i did a balance shaft elimination
Thoughtr you might have - still odd.
Yes sir it is........I dumped a bunch of money into it.....owell off to the g54b project......Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
If you can determine the reason for the failure, then you will be able to warn the next guy that comes along wanting to do the same thing.
Ill do some research.......itll be a few days before im pulling motor apart and out...........So I will post when I find out wtf happenedQuote:
Originally Posted by camoit
Im game to help out the mighty owners.....lol
This sucks the big one. That is why I finally said screw the stock stuff and just did, what I did to my truck. I can't tell you haw many heads, head gaskets, ignition modules, drive line center bearings, trans, front end parts and other what not's I went through over the past 30 years.
yeppers sure does.......Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
That pic is hard to see but it looks like the rod end with no bolts or cap.
That would be what it is sir. I didn't know rod had the force to go thru like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by crvtec90
We do call them an "internal combustion" engine, And thats the nice way of saying there are 2400 explosions per minute at an idle. I have no idea what the pressures are, but I do know any engine has the potential to kill or dismember you.
Kind of like this one, ejecting the engine block from the frame.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBF6iZfguF0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_8Fc9qAZcw
I love that video!
I'm sure if you pull the head you'll see what else you need to buy. Had that happen to me and the piston kissed a few valves. It's better to see what exactly needs to be replaced before you start researching. Might find yourself looking for the wrong thing. A 4g63 dohc turbo setup ain't that much more then a complete rebuild a second time around. Keep your options open. Btw, mine had a con rod cap bolt failure from oil starvation to my first 4g63 DOHC turbo motor. No scar to cylinder walls, massive damage to crank and brace.
Good LordQuote:
Originally Posted by camoit
Im pretty much stripping truck to fix my 87 d50 with a cracked block g54b then bye bye max.......Research i was speaking of was pulling motor apart and see what happened. Im gonna spend my money to build up the g54b after I replace block of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doorciv
So you liked the video uh??? Pretty good.
Just wow..Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
Good idea to rebuild the 2.6, it is a better performing engine than the dog g63b(unless you were doing DOHC/and or turbo swap). I loved the 2.6l when I had it compared to the g63b.
G63b compatible with 4g63 dohc parts. Rods same. Pistons high comp but can use aftermarket pistons for turbo. Head bolts up. Lol.
But even then its still a lot more work and custom work at that compared to just rebuilding a stock engine.
Agreed. Just pointing out since he might need to rebuild the head a second time as well as the block depending how bad the damages. Other options are out there. Waiting updates from the op.