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use a pressure washer with some strong detergent to spray off the rest of that acid. It probably got between the hood frame and the metal above when it slung off the pulley. Or take the hood off, flip it over and pour a baking soda mix on it and let it sit for an hour or so, then hose it off.
It's been a couple years now (I think.. forgot) but didn't want to 'fix' much since I was going to respray after
pulling the engine and trans for the newer 2.6 and 5spd. Son wants to 'get used to' the truck and drive it.
Don't want to take anything from the thread..
So, waddya do in a situation where you've paid a deposit and have horrible work done, but DON'T want to leave it
again for them to "FIX" their mistake and really screw with it..
I remember hearing that if you've taken your vehicle, that you've accepted the work done..
Just call the police or Lawyer and take pics??
Errol
take pics of the work, get them to document their mistakes ( good luck on that one) then threaten to expose them to the media for the poor work they did if you don't get the deposit back. Bad media exposure is worse than a lawsuit, and its free!
GooGone the heck out of it and use a mild scrubber green dish sponge. After removing the overspray and you want it to look awesome, spray armor\all over it and let it sit. Come back, wipe the entire thing down to get any excess armor/all and that engine will look like it just rolled out the factory sliding doors for your customers.
A little plug to the BBB couldn't hurt. Help save the next customer from getting screwed. Then send Vinney and the boys over to that shop with their violin cases.
Attachment 11560
I was very pissed about the work... I missed my debut show, cancelled a photo shoot I had scheduled, and ended up losing out on a couple of other things. I will deal with it by redoing it myself when I have the time. When I hired the other guy to do it, I was strapped for time and decided to have someone else take care of it. That turned out to be a bad decision and I accept that. I should have just sucked it up and pulled a few all nighters.
Shortly after I received my truck from the painter, the painter went to jail. At the end of the day, he got what he deserved either way. I already dramatically reduced the amount I was paying because it was 10 days late and looks like shit. Paying for small claims, losing out (time wise) for my existing clients to go to small claims, and every other related expense would have been greater than me just redoing the paint job. Based on his past and the jail time, he wouldn't even have the small amount I did pay him as a refund.
Putting people and businesses on blast is silly in my opinion. If you were completely done wrong, sure, tell your story. The only problem is the majority of people don't just tell their story. Instead they turn themselves into *****rs over some meaningless moment like some store not honoring an expired coupon for a couple cents off a can of tomatoes... Many businesses don't even get a chance to explain their side of things. To me, it's like purposely showing off your dance skills to a person in a wheel chair.... you're just jumping face first into the idiot pool.
I will move forward and get my truck done the way it needed to be done in the beginning.
Merrill, GREAT ATTITUDE!!!! Dont even get me started on Yelp!!!
LOL he's in jail. Sounds like Karma to me.
I think we all here were pretty much just jumping on your side with advice since it sounded like you were angry and got hosed for the work performed.
Anyway, you definitely have things handled and settled up inside and that is what counts. Keep us posted on your truck build, as always there are many following your work. :)
Two things happened today.
The first thing is my truck finally got a good wash since the crack head painted it. I've been to a few washes since, but since the paint job is terrible, the dirt never came off until today. The secret is a Scotch Brite with some soap and water. The great news is the dirt comes right off, my paint is flat and doesn't show Scotch Brite scratches, and the truck looks good as new (maybe better/smoother). The bad news is it takes damn near 3 friggin hours to scrub the exterior down to clean it. It's whatever anyway.... It looks decent again.
Attachment 11685
The second thing to happen today is:
Attachment 11686
Look carefully at the pic.... This build just got serious :secret:
and the best part of this conversion - it is all factory parts from Asia...
Either you've flipped the dash photograph...which is a cruel thing to do to a dyslexic...or you're preparing to put the steering wheel on the right-hand side, thus tempting geezer101 to steal your truck. That's 'entrapment', you know.
Truck looks terrific regardless :)
but if he takes the truck back with him, won't it revert to LHD? LOL
That is a real RHD dash from a postal truck. Everything I need to swap is there (just not in the pic). I've been contemplating RHD swapping since I started this build. I was talking to a few people over seas about gathering what I need and shipping here. I just didn't want to spend all that much. All this was less than 200 bucks, so I couldn't resist. A very good friend of mine found it and snatched it up for me. All I need to do is go pick it up and swap it.
I'm swamped with clients projects and vehicles right now, but eventually I'll find the time to get this done. Shouldn't be too difficult to get done once I start on it (average time is a week for me on RHD swaps for me).
Well...I guess we could say Merrill is going postal.
Right?
Or left?
Anyways, you sure do appreciate a challenge! This will be an interesting conversion to witness
that's a great deal - I can see why you wanted to do it. There was one rhd pickup on ebay a while back that was a highway maintainance truck, so a few are stateside. Pics of the conversion would be great so those of us less fortunate can drool...
I saw an eBay RHD earlier this year. Almost bought it.
Royster - you're right. I will be soon too lol
Finally a member who is prepared to drive from the correct side of his truck! :wrench:Will this be easy enough to get approved? The only issue with RHD manufactured Mitsu trucks is the exhaust/steering rack living close to each other. Plus if you want to go turbo the exhaust manifold gets nice and close to the BMC and booster.
I'm not at all worried about it. I'm a professional fabricator by trade, so anything can be modded or built if needed. The new engine is also an Evo variant, so the exhaust will eventually be on the left either way.
There is nothing for me to get approved with it. The RHD topic here is full of mixed rules. Most of them are some bogus nonsense I don't have to worry about where I live. Most laws are concerned more with importing a RHD and less about converting a US titled/registered truck. There are a few cautions in just about every law book regarding conversions due to safety. Passing vehicles and left turns are the biggest warnings which are no big deal.
Awesome, can't wait to see it done. I was wanting to to rhd swap but its a pain to find the dash.
I consider myself EXTREMELY lucky to have a friend that was at the yard that day, let me know about it AND was willing to take the time out of his day to pull, buy, and hang on to it for me until I can take a drive to pick it up. I owe that man big time. I'll even let him drive my truck once the conversion is complete lol.
so much hard work and inspiration in this thread brother. if i ever-ever find myself with a real good chunk of money to spend on my truck, i'm calling you first. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Very nice build. I like all of the attention to detail. I'm in the process of acquiring parts to do a 92 4g64 block with a 92 4g63 head. I have most of the parts but I wanted to find out if the thermostat housing on the intake will also fit on my 92 block. I have also heard some people say removing the freeze plug in the front for the outlet reduces flow in the rear of the head, what are your thoughts on that and did you make any modifications to address it? I really don't want a hose going around to the back either.
Thank you.
My block and head are Evo variant (not DSM), so it is a little different. I used the thermostat housing off of the Montero Sport 2.4 which bolts to the side of the block behind the alternator so that I don't have to have a tube to the back of the head. The back of my cylinder head has an outlet port for recirculation/flow. I also added another port to my block off plate for the heater line.
Since the thermostat is on the side of the block and attached to the lower radiator hose (instead of the upper), coolant inside the block only flows through the two ports in the back of the head until the thermostat opens.
The DSM variant is not equipped with the rear ports. If you chose to attach an upper outlet tube like I did, you will have to create a rear block off plate where the DSM thermostat is that has 2 circulation ports and use the Montero Sport thermostat housing like I have. This will allow proper cooling flow through the block and head, and will eliminate the thermostat pipe to the rear of the block. It may also save you from having to hammer mod the firewall or move the block forward (I don't know for sure - just a possibility).
The first page of this thread shows all the parts and mods done to my engine which will be similar to what you need.
I have used both a front, and rear coolant outlet in my RWD 4G63. (91 Eclipse 6-bolt 4G63) If you want to run a rear block off plate and the coolant outlet in the front of the head you have to modify the head, and head gasket to promote better coolant flow to the rear of the cylinder head. Here is a good write up with pics from the Project ZeroG forum..
http://projectzerog.com/plumbing.shtml
If you make 2 ports in the coolant block off plate for recirculation and heater, you don't need to put any holes in the head or gasket.
Here is a little more RHD love....
Attachment 11852
Just to make this easier for those planning to swap (or just following for info), all you need is the dash with all components (frame work, ducts, brackets, etc.), RHD blower motor, RHD cooling unit (for AC if you have it) or AC cooling unit bypass (shown in pic), RHD heater unit, RHD steering gear unit (steering box), and the RHD harness.
The HVAC cluster is also mirrored. However, I have crawled it over and even verified there is nothing stopping you from using the LHD HVAC cluster and cables. The LHD bezel (piece with the vents and radio) fits in the RHD dash as well as the HVAC cluster and vice versa. You don't need the RHD HVAC cluster per se, but it is cool to have. Most people would probably never notice the difference.
One other thing you will need is a RHD shifter for all you 5 speed people. Yes - the shifter. If you notice on your LHD truck, the shifter angles toward you, the driver on the left. Take a moment and jump over to the passenger (right) side and reach for the shifter.... Notice how far away it seems? You can either buy a RHD shifter for your swap, or modify yours to angle the other way.
If you look at your factory firewall you will see a "mirrored impression" which has all the same features and stamping as the other side. That basically means if you draw a vertical line down the center of the firewall, you will notice that the right side has stamping and impressions for all the components the same as the left side. RHD and LHD are a little different when it comes to the clutch cable, but the impression in the sheet metal is still there. It is to the left of the brake booster. This will require a RHD clutch pedal if you want to keep it factory. Virtually every component can be swapped over to the other side using the existing firewall.
Simply speaking, all you need to do is cut one section from the left, and transplant it to the right. If you do not have a welder, you will have a harder time. However, don't let that discourage you. You can simply cut new holes and use new hardware while cutting patch panels for the other side. Some clever brackets will have to be made if you do not have a welder, but if you are creative and ambitious, you can do it. This is an easy RHD swap compared to other vehicles. I will get more info and confirmation later when I perform this swap, but right now, that is what I have concluded. There will be some other snags, but its little stuff.
What I am Doing
Since I am swapping to a hydraulic trans/clutch from a Montero Sport, my clutch master cylinder will be added to the left of the brake booster. I am using the clutch pedal assembly from the Montero Sport as well. This is most likely NOT the only solution to swapping to a hydraulic clutch, but it is one I know I can make happen easily. The factory MM's with hydraulic clutches probably have a clutch pedal assembly and clutch master that can be used as well.
Since my shifter is from the Montero Sport, and I have modified it to my liking, I will simply swing my spacer over to the right instead of the left. This will allow me to shift much easier than reaching to the other side of the truck lol.
All of this will be shown once I get to swapping.