I have the same end caps from an 86 nissan - now I know they will work on Geronimo. As far as the 83-86, they are not tall enough - I can post pics of that as I have a 86 bumper not on the project truck and the end caps.
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I have the same end caps from an 86 nissan - now I know they will work on Geronimo. As far as the 83-86, they are not tall enough - I can post pics of that as I have a 86 bumper not on the project truck and the end caps.
Few more hrs work and got the light basically installed, just have to do the blending on the outside then ready for primer.
Attachment 2918
Front side
Used the hard plastic mount from the back and JB welded it on to the bumper then used Tech-Steel to finish attaching it on the back side.
Attachment 2919
Back side
Damn it Camoit those are what I'm looking for, something different then the standard light.
for marker lights check out http://www.maxxima.com/ These guys make the trick lighting. Click here for the cool ones.
Looking good man :thumbup:
Got the passengers side finished up and started the drivers side.
Attachment 2922
Passengers side bucket
Attachment 2923
Started drivers side
Got the turn signals done and installed.Down to final priming and E-coat.
Attachment 2935
All installed
Assuming you know, but just in case you don't (or for others reading the thread), goin LED on your signals means you will likely have to put a large (50w) resistor after your signal relay to keep it from acting like it has a blown bulb. The LED use so little power and pretty much no amps (milli-amps) so the circuit will either go to "hyper flash" and flicker like a strobe, or just not work.
I would assume using a constant rate flasher relay might do the same, but I'm really not sure.
You do good work, really like how smooth the caps came out!
Yeah I have run into that with newer computer controlled lighting systems,I've been working on an 08 Mustang that had that problem and added the inline resistor in to stop the 3rd mounted brake light from always being on as it reads as a fault.The lights I used have the resister built into them and they work fine (tested yesterday).
OR, just go out and get your self a new flasher from Grote. Part # 44891 It will keep you from dealing with the resistor problem. Any Napa or heavy truck repair shop can get it. Connect white wire to ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by Acuta73
Attachment 2966
My lighting wiring is apart right now; this is awesome info! Thanks for the tip!Quote:
Originally Posted by camoit
-RHP
Your truck is wild, and I'm really into it! Such great work, keep it up!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
-RHP
Found some nice clear LED marker lights and they even screw into the factory mounting holes.The bed holes are a little to big so I'll have to fill them when I do the body work on it.
Attachment 3013
light off
Attachment 3014
light on
Cough, part#, Cough, caugh...
LOL Camoit....... Grote part #47923 for the amber and #47922 for the red
GRRR! I like those better than mine! Damnit.....
Still don't like chrome, but that can be "fixed".
Mebbe some other time.
The chrome is just a trim ring so I might sand them down and paint them body color. I'll leave them chrome for now and see how it looks with the final paint on it.
Bumper all done,here's some pic's of it in E-Coat.
Attachment 3018
Front
Attachment 3016
Back with caps finished
Attachment 3017
The light's are flush with the bumper.
:thumbup:that is sweet looking. I've been in and around the trucking industry my whole life, more leds are always good
Quick pic of basically what it will look like when the front end is all back together with the lights on.
Attachment 3019
front sheet metal on and lights turned on.
Are those side markers flat faced like the original side markers, or are they curved? My side markers are setup "floating" - bolts flush through the fender and slide the lights on and nut them from the back.
their a domed oval
Attachment 3034
size spec's
Attachment 3035
Spent the day masking the truck and putting the first coat of primer on.I will be doing another coat then sanding it all. After that it gets shot in E-coat and then painting the door jams and window openings in body color.Maybe by next week I will have the sheet metal all back on and bolted down.
Attachment 3036
Cab in first coat of primer
Hay,, any tricks on removing the wiper drive arm and motor???? I need to pull mine for powder coat.
Not really, just undo the 3 bolts holding on the motor plate, pop it off the arm.Then undo the other side plate and the 2 nuts holding the drive arm. drop into the cowl area and pull it out the passengers side.I just took the nut off the back of the motor and removed the small arm leaving it attached to the main arms.
be damn careful with the nuts on the wiper mounts, mine were a (Female Dog) to get off, I had to soak them in Seafoam (better the WD40) a couple of times till they broke lose.
Couple pic's of the cab in it's first coat of E-coat.
Attachment 3043
Front Left
Attachment 3044
Rear right