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Went out and got the right connectors to use the correct wire today. I have #4 from battery to dist block, 8gauge to the amp. 12 gauge to the sub. I had the frequency to high on the amp before so it wasn't sounding to good. Got it tuned a little better but still think it should be hitting harder. Not sure what to try next?
You need 4 ga to the amp for power and ground - the more strands the better. Be sure to have an inline fuse near the battery to prevent shorts from becoming fires. Remember that electricity conducts on the surface of the wire , not inside it, so the more strands give more surface area for the power to flow.
Few things to Check....... Subsonic filter should be set at 25hrz (cutting off below that). Deck if has sub out low pass should be set at 120hrz. Check and see if the Sub is a 4 ohm or 8 ohm. If its an 8 ohm you're only pushing 150 watts (maybe) to the sub. That amp is only rated at 300 watts X 1 @ 4ohms and has a THD of 1% so its good enough for sub or 2.Set the amp gain to around 3/4,Low pass on amp at 120hrs (or around there for 10" sub) if the deck doesn't have a filter. And finally the base boost to 1/2 way.
Now remember a sealed enclosure will not "BOOM" it is more a hard hitting bump and if the enclosure is to big or to small it will also effect how hard the sub hits.My 20 year old JL 8's hit harder with a 100watts at 8 ohms then some of these new subs running 500+ watts. Check the min wattage to run the sub.Some of them from a few years ago needed 300 watts min just to get them to move.
you are putting out enough power (300w on a 250w sub) if kenwood isn't over rating that amp like some of their other models, i did some research on your set up, the amp can only draw 40amps before it blows its fuse so even cheap 8 gauge can handle it but 4 gauge would be better, more strands also make it more flexible, wiring is one area not to go cheap... what is your alternator-battery, battery-engine ground and battery-chassis ground? if it's still stock that may be part of the problem. outside of tuning all i can think of is bad RCAs which i doubt or inadequete wiring and grounds.
I ran all Rockford fosgate wire for power and ground. It's hitting pretty good now. The sub is a 4 ohm, was told that would be good for this amp. I'm not an audio guy, so I'm really going off whatever I'm told. I put an inline fuse a foot from the battery. It's a 30 and at the dist block I have a 30. Amp is fused at 40. The 8 gauge wire is only 10 inches or less, blocks are right next to amp. I only put 8 gauge because I couldn't find connectors for #4 that would fit in the tiny space on the amp for the screws. Barely any room between + and -. It made me nervous. Also, a mechanic recommender a dry cell optima red battery. Any thoughts? I'm gonna up the alternator, hope to do it Sunday. Anyone do the mitsubishi wagon one? Read on the old site it bolts right up without mods
optimas use to be great, now their QC has gone downhill you have to return it a few times before you get a good one, but when you do get a good one it will last for a long time...
also look at batteries made enersys(odyssey or diehard platinum), they make the batteries for the military humvee so they must be doing something right.
hmm, i know the 87 wagon and van alternator is identical to the 6g72 v6 mighty max and montero alternator i can't recall the years or part number... i have a 4g64 MM outside and will give it a quick look next time i'm out there... the expo wagon/lrv i don't know...
someone should just make kits to bolt a DC 300+ amp 2g DSM alternator to any of the motors...
i was wrong about v6 MMs...
alright so the van alternator has 2 holes on top and bolts to something like a motorcycle axle block for adjusting, whereas the MM/D50 uses a single bolt on top like a bicycle axle. they do look to be around the same size you would need to find a store that has both to compare side by side out of the vehicle.
MD134315 and MD134315D fit:
87-90 van and wagon 2.4l
89-94 montero 3.0l
89 dodge raider 3.0l
any of the mods feel like merging this into above post to reduce clutter on his thread?
heres the info i got on the alternator i want to install. i think i dont have anything to do fri, hope to go get one and install over the weekend. http://www.mightyram50.net/camoit/Ve..._MightyD50.mht
Ordered the alternator for advanced auto. Nobody around me had one for a mitsubishi van. Bosch 75 amp $153 with core charge. I hope this is a direct plug in. Was going to look it over first, guess well see. Should have it by dec 3
Got the new alternator last night, installed it today. Very easy. Needed to buy 2 8m bolts. I'll have pics soon as I can get to my computer again. My house is getting the hardwood floors resurfaced and I can't get to my bedroom. Still haven't figured out how to post from iPhone.
Pulled my dash cluster apart and started to install blue led lights in it today. Started thinking about painting the inside of the clear lens blue. Krylon makes stained glass paint, my buddy used it on his Harley headlight and it looks great. Is this a stupid idea? I'm kind of thinking its dumb, not gonna jump to doing it. Please give me your thought. The paint only comes in 3 colors- red, yellow, and blue. My truck is all black and gray so that's why I thought it would look bad
Blue ????? If I was going to spray the cluster cover I would go with the spray on window tint and when the lights aren't on the cluster looks black. the only bad thing about it is you won't see the gauges with out the lights turned on. You can always rewire the gauge lights to turn on with the key and leave the running lights and headlights on the headlight switch.
I think I'm not gonna paint the cluster, it'll just look bad. Anyone with a matching interior may want to try this, mine would just look stupid. I did change all the bulbs in the cluster to blue led lights, it looks good and was easy to do. Now that that's done, I see no reason to have the dimmer. Should I pull that out and jump it thru or is there any reason to leave it? My radio is not tied into it anymore and although I didn't try, I imagine it wouldn't dim LEDs.
Mine does dim my leds, in fact I have it turned alll the way down.
Where did you get your blue leds ?? ive been wanting to get some for my dash
Pep boys. Bulb is 194. U need 3 for the dash lights.
Forgot, I also put them in the turn signal indicator spots. So 5 if u want to do that. While on bulbs, anyone know what the smaller bulb # is in the dash and indicator for park/drive mini dash? Has 2 really small bulbs in there, I'd like to change them also but can't find any info on what they are
I got 2 packs last nite for $10.00 becuse pep boys had them in the wrong place:thumbup: and I won't know how they look til tonight. But I need 1 more so I can do the turn signals too.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobsnewdirection
The small dash bulbs are 74LL. I'm hoping to order some and install the beginning of spring. Anyone know how many I need to order?
Haven't touched the truck in a few weeks, been working on my bathroom, kitchen, bedroom and basement all at once. Used the truck for what it was made for, moving stuff, fired right up even tho it's been sitting and it's cold. Can't wait for all this house bs to be done, got a tailgate in my garage waiting to get installed, and I wanna pull a leaf in the back.
I got home yesterday and noticed my truck looks a little crooked. Checked air pressure in the tires and it was close. My passenger side is higher then my driver side. I'm 3/4inch higher in the back pass and 1inch higher on front passenger. My suspension was only replaced a year ago, and I only put 2000 miles on it since I changed it. Any ideas as to what I should look at? Only stock parts on the suspension is the leaf springs.
when you changed the front coils, did you put the taller coil on the drivers side? Also check to see if the springs are seated the same on both sides in the cups. The rear maybe the same issue if you took both sides off and didn't mark them - the driver side springs are different to compensate for the gas tank.
I called belltech and asked about if one side was designed for the driver side and they say they arnt side specific. If its the spring they will take it back no problem. But they want me to switch the springs to see if it does anything. That is gonna suck allot