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Yeah, looking at it b4 hand I was like, "piece of cake, just move it all over..."
And given that I had all the correct RHD aus/JDM/uk parts to bolt right in it would be way easier.
Modding all the supports and pulling spotwelded parts off the left to move them over eats up the
hours for sure.
Wasted a bunch of time running around looking for a new fitting for the return line w nothing to show.....
Jumpin jahovas, sorry for the lack of attention here. Been going crazy trying to get my
garden planted, still behind schedule....
Been picking on Montgomery a bit, more head scratching and scouring the interwebz for pics of proper
RHD components so I can mod my bits to match close as I can. If I only spent an hour or 2 & got my 2017 tax
return sorted out & mailed in I'd have a nice chunk of capital to purchase these items with instead of making
them all myself, but alas, I'm a slow grasp of logic & reason sometimes.............
I'll have a big pic dump in an hour or 2, along with some interesting findings. (Mite only be singular, I have to review
the research I've done to see if its actually finding(s) plural.)
Be back shortly
That's how it goes. It's always the prep work that eats into your wrenching time. It's good to know I'm not the only one who is behind in lodging their tax crap :rolleyes:
Sorry for the hold-up, too much vodki these past cpl nites....
so i was sitting in the truck last week, and the column just still seemed too
far to the center of the cab. i noticed that the column tilt bracket appeared to be
RHD/LHD specific, so i had to cut that apart and sckootch it over to the right:
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the after-shot is in the next wave of pics, my bad.....
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More shortly, for realsies
There is a lot going on to do this swap. So many little things you wouldn't think were necessary. Got to excuse my ignorance but does the Gen 2 have a safety switch in the clutch pedal? This is something that bugs me with the Gen 1 and all it would need is the clutch pedal travel stop bolt and nut to be ground off at the welds and a bigger nut that will take another brake switch tacked in. I'd have to take the entire dash apart to get to it, but it's a one shot deal. I'm feeling a bit inspired by your efforts :thumbup:
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yea it does, its a little 1-wire button. ill snap a pick for you...Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
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i need to mount this lil fuse block somwhere, mite go on the firewall.
i have to run a cable from the (+) positive terminal of the battery to the lug there:
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And i have to add about a foot or so of length to the MAF wires.
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But the harness flip over seems like itll work out alrite.
need to add some wires here & there but way better than leaving the
harness LHD.
Lines didnt come out great, but i want to put in a cooler eventually,
so ill probly run a -AN hardline adapter on the return fitting and then i can
plumb in a nice cooler...
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now the left hand side is gonna be tight with the ecu, LHD blower motor assmbly,
and LHD heater box. im going to have to make some very slick, low-profile ducting
to hook up the blower outlet which is up against the A-pillar/firewall corner,
and the heater box inlet which is on the right hand (now drivers side)
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these others are of the harness on the Right side, its gonna fit nicely.
ive only got to lengthen the interiour light wires, maybe a couple others...
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still need to mod the brake pedal, clutch pedal needs tweeking, and im going to tryin
replikate a RHD throttle pedal. hafta make 1 more brake line to connect the rears up, ive yet
to delete the rear ABS can or prop valve...
more pics soon.
i cant find that damned clutch switch, it looks just like the door light switches ive removed on all my
kraut cars, a little black plastic shaft w a spring & contact to a male spade.
its only 1 wire, im assuming it grounds out a relay or powers it, to allow the starter relay to
connect or whatevermitehaveyou.....
ill keep lookin for it, but idk where i put it. ill lyk soon as i find her tho bru
I almost forgot to post my findings regarding running a mkIII k74 L200 steering box & idler arm on
a mkII L200/mighty max w all remaining steering & drive line OE mk2 parts:
The mk3 pittman & idler arms are about an inch longer than the mk2 units, and I had hoped to see
some difference in the steering or lock to lock turn count....
....however, with the longer Pittman & idler arms my lock to lock turn count went from
about 3 & 1/2 down to just 2 turns L2L.
I think ralley cars & race cars have like 2 & 1/2 turn racks, so finding
that my truck is tighter than that was cool, at first. Now I'm thinking that wen I go to turn on the heater or radio
a small movement of the steering wheel is gonna send me into the woods.....
I'm going to wait & see how bad it is driving, but worst case hopefully I can retrofit the mk2 arms onto the new box.
We shall see. Given how crappy the turning radius is it might not be as bad as I worry......
But if anybody wants to dramatically shorten their steering wheel turn count, 1998-2006ish L200 steering box & idler
arms on a mk2 mighty max/L200 drop link/tie rods gives you 2 turns from lock to lock.
Woow, vagrant_mugen! That's gonna be a crazy ride driving on the other side! Cant wait to see the finished product!
If the steering needs to be tamed, maybe a steering damper kit will help smooth it out a bit. I've been trying to source something that will work for a 2WD Gen 1. So, in theory I could use MK III idler and pitman on my Gen 1 to sharpen steering response?
I don't know how close the mk1 stuff is to the mk3, but if the splined shaft the column attaches to is the same size
on the mk1s as on the mk2 boxes, and the pittman & idler arm ends are the same taper on the drop link, it shud work.
But the pattern on the framerails will hafta be modded so all 3 bolts line up for the box & idler.....
I don't know how close the mk1 stuff is to the mk3, but if the splined shaft the column attaches to is the same size
on the mk1s as on the mk2 boxes, and the pittman & idler arm ends are the same taper on the drop link, it shud work.
But the pattern on the framerails will hafta be modded so all 3 bolts line up for the box & idler.....
Damn it double post.....
I was mostly asleep when I read that, once I measure the shaft on the steering box where the pitman arm
attaches, I'll know if the mk3 arm will do the mk2 box.
Now as far as the idler arm, as everybody makes their own replacement idler arms, the pivot shaft seems
to vary in diameter at least between the mk2 OEM idler off my truck & the aftermarket mk3 RHD idler I bought
from the UK thru mitsybitz on eBay.
So w the idler arm, ur prolly gonna hafta fit the entire mk3 unit onto your mk1 frame rail,
Unless you can find a mk3 idler arm with the same diameter shaft as your mk1....
So, still no major hurdles cleared, but im pickin away...
so i been tryin to figure out a replacement intake pipe, the OE rubber unit is deteriorated as
every time you touch it ur hands are black. so im gonna replace it w a steel unit.
i was going to put the airbox in the stock position, but im really NOT looking forward to
having to lengthen the MAF connector wires so im considering moving it to the left side of the bay
now that the brake booster is on the other side now. then i was thinking about if i was ever to
install a snorkel i DONT want it to be on my new drivers side. with this 180* intake it can go right
out the fender and up the left side A-pillar.
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I finished up the brake lines, at least in the engine bay. its a cluster across the firewall, ive yet
to lay them out and mount them all pretty like....
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And i hafta hammer out these little tabs that are bent over on the clutch line mount tab.
im not 100% its for this application, thinkin the clutch cable for the RWD trucks.
but itll suffice once im thru w it.
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And heres the seats im thinking about running. theyre kinda recaro knock-offs,
theyre nice, little heavy, and theyre are stupid stiff. i need to lend them to a 250lb guy to
drive around on for a cpl months to break them in....
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Ooooh, that air cleaner assembly is close to everything. You've really given yourself a challenge on the swap. We got ONE model of truck that was 2WD V6 - now that would be an interesting performance build (twin turbo V6 swap anyone?) Awesome work :thumbup:
i keep forgetting to measure the steering box shaft for you mate, im swamped today but shoot me a PM
later on or tomarra to remind me, ill compare to the k74 box see if the arms are swappable for your mk1 .....
its not as tight as it looks, i kinda wedged the upper in there for the picture, its closer to the fender
than itll be. esp w the 4inch body lift, it adds alot of spare atop the engine. my father hates it, im rather
impartial to the look, but the added room to wrench is wunderbar.
the air filter housing got damaged when i tied to butt-hump the box truck, im going to run a cone filter
temporarily until i can fab or find a nice little 10inch cube airbox i can mount there and plumb a snorkel
into eventually... although i doubt ill ever have to do any river fording that would be that deep.
id nearly forgotten about the throttle cable....
i ordered a cable from a 1990 mitsu galant, it measures 65 inches rather than the 34 inches of the
stock 1991 mighty max cable (curiously the rockauto site listed the replacement aftermarket max cable
at 41 inches, which i almost purchased but didnt want to risk it being too short. and the galant cable was
on clearance for $10, $20 total shipped, bloody teevs...)
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obviously its far longer at 65inches
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difference in the flanges, as i have to drill the holes to mount it anyway.
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and theres where its going, the black rubber gasket stuck to the firewall is where its gonna hafta go
theres very little flat surface in the area, its quite multi-faceted
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throttle cable installed
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this is more where the MAF is gonna go, minus the OEM airbox:
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now i hafta fab the throttle pedal arm....
...among many other things.
almost done. its too long, ive gotta cut the arm & shortn it a tad, but it works.
i had to use a torch and heat up the LHD bends, straightened it out, and bent it where
i needed it to go. i had to twist the pedal end itself around 180 deg, but i think its gonna work out alright.
at first i was trying to replikate the OEM rhd arm exactly, but i ended up just doing what i needed to.
i forgot to take a pic of the LHD arm before i started....
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fini
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but i hadda scootch the clutch & brake over to the right a tad, now ive got room
for a dead-pedal on the left next to the tunnel.
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im starting to work on the dash a bit, at least making the cardboard templates.
drivability-wise all i need to do now is finish tweaking the shifters to the right & weld
on the short throw extension, then fab a little riser box to pick up the pivot point the same
as the extension im welding into the sifter to change the length between the pivot point and the
end of the sifter lever that moves the shift forks, etc.... ill post pictures wen i begin the surgery.
the process shouldnt be too difficult for anybody with a decent MIG welder to replikate on their trucks.
The pedal layout looks better. A footrest for lefty would be a nice touch (you get used to them being there in more modern designed cars) You using the stock pedal covers or something a little more flashy?
Stock covers, I only have the gas & brake tho, imma hafta make a trip to the junkyard for one, and I wanna
find sommore grab handles to install on the A-pillars like the Toyotas have.
Started making a cardboard dash to mock up a template to bend up on a friends 8ft brake.
The dash is like 4ft 5 inches so it won't quite fit in our 4 foot brake. I'll post a pic shortly
short shifter started, should be finished by later tonite. im going for a ride before it gets cool.
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so once this tower is welded together, i just have to extend the shifter end
the same length and the throw should be stupid short. i decided to go with
1.5inches instead of 2in, but it should be GREATLY reduced in throw. then im
extending the upper portion 4 inches or so to make up for the body lift, i like
my shifters close to the steering wheel.