Yep, easy. Take the vacuum hose and suck on the end of it. You may end up with a mitsubishi aftertaste but it will be more than adequate vacuum to make the advance on the distributor actuate.
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Yep, easy. Take the vacuum hose and suck on the end of it. You may end up with a mitsubishi aftertaste but it will be more than adequate vacuum to make the advance on the distributor actuate.
Just a quick update. I've talked to a local guy that works on Carbs, hes going to rebuild the one that i got on my truck, and take a look at the distributor and if it needs work, fix it up as well. I've also talked to my painter about touch ups and different things. Hopefully i will have more updates over the next couple weeks.
Update: Funds have been low since my last post and haven't had money nor time to get the carb rebuilt, however i've been on a mission to fix all leaks that are present.
At this point i have it narrowed down to one last "leak". Coming from my Fuel Pump is a vent or something of that sort that runs from the top of the pump down to below the oil pan and then nowhere. Fuel spritzes out of that while the engine is running, is this supposed to happen or is it a sign of a bad fuel pump?
That should run back to a tube on the firewall and into the tank. If gas is coming out thats a bad thing.
that is the return line from the pump to the tank - there is supposed to be a small line that the hose goes on that goes back to the tank.
Alright, well that is something that i need to fix then, does anybody maybe know where to find a diagram of it. i checked the manual and its not quite clear.
Alright, i looked it up in the manual and it is of no help at all. Maybe i can get some more clarification from you guys I've circled the item in question.
Attachment 12224
Fuel return
Fuel pump
If your hood has not been replaced there should be a sticker. Some times you get lucky.Quote:
Originally Posted by asmyser
not original hood and the hood is to a different engine size so that doesn't help...I'm still having a hard time finding anything that is missing connections. I can't find where this thing would go...
I'm also having other issues, i believe my timing is off a tooth. ALSO i'm having a weird thing happening with the coolant. When i try to start the vehicle the coolant gets pressurized, and is pressurized even after trying to start the vehicle, this is when its cold as so heat isn't causing it. I'm not sure what would cause this.
I suck at camera phone. Can someone flip the images? From my Motor emissions guide, HTH.
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Attachment 12249
Flipped.
If the coolant is pressurizing immediately after cranking, you have engine compression leaking into your cooling system - maybe head gasket or cracked head or block. That is the only way it could pressurize the system so quickly. Surprized it didn't blow out freeze plugs or hoses.
without tearing it apart is there a way to see which one if either is blown, i don't know why it would have blown i only ran it for 15 minutes and it didn't get that hot.
Compression test or take plugs out and disconnect coil and turn it over to see which one shoots water out of it. Also the one with a clean spark plug will also tell you.
Deciding on which cylinder is not going to fix it, you will have to remove the head anyway and fix it. Just hope the head doesn't have a crack, usually between MCA jet valve or intake and exhaust valves. Still fixable though.
Pressurizing the overflow tank is also a good sign you have a popped head gasket. I have had one balloon out until it was almost round.
Running time doesn't matter, it could of blown after you shut the truck off just the time before. Motors will climb in heat after shutting down and if the weather is cold enough it will suck some in and crack it. It doesn't take much to crack or blow a gasket in these trucks. Age is a good way, overheat, or it just decides to do it. It's nothing really abnormal with our trucks, some just take extra precautions to try and prevent it.
well looks like i'm tearing the manifolds off and checking the head tomorrow. updates probably for tomorrow
Yes notorious for cracking....⬇
coolant...
So I took it down and it looks like a cracked head. I'm taking it to a guy for a second opinion. The question next is, where do I get another?
You have 3 choices eather get the one you have cleaned and fixed depending on where the crack is . buy a used j yard head or buy a new one online there are several sites online that will sell you a new or refurbished head it just cost a lot 300-400 range complete.
I have a head off an '89 2.0 I have no use for. I don't know if it's cracked or not (the truck did overheat) but I can take it off tomorrow night (left tools at the shop) and check it. You can have it if you pay shipping.
Well, I'm sorry I had to give you the bad news prior to the bad news. But, there is good times ahead for you. This forum for one is the best and as you can see...people come to help. Now all you need to do is decided which way your going to go with repairs.
The thing I noticed to be one of the best things in preventing heads from cracking is to re-torque the head about 500 miles after installing a fixed or rebuilt head. Over heating is the number one problem of course for these issues and that is your number 2 things to do. Watch the temps on these trucks. If you see it climbing, pull it over fast and check for problems.
I heard a rumor about Mitsubishi years ago concerning the engine assembly and torqueing of head bolts from the factory. I'm not sure of any fact to this, but apparently when heads were installed on many Mitsubishi engines the rear head bolts were not torqued correctly. This was thought to be the main reason for numbers of crack heads and blown head gaskets in past trucks. Though the history I have seen with the trucks includes inferior metals and bad castings in many of Mitsubishi vehicles in the '80's years. One example are these darn exhaust manifolds that once were recalled for cracks.
Anyway, your not the lone ranger with your truck. We all have had the same thing happen to us long time owners as you have. I personally replaced the head 3 times and my 4th has been perfect. This might of been because I purchased a head without them MCA Jet valves. I just don't think the engine likes the burst of incoming air like that and creates a hot torch effect IMO.
Keep us posted on your fix, we can help with any issues you have during your fix.
that and dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates - like putting a wedge in the middle of a log and slowly pushing until the log splits. Jet valves did help with performance when the trucks were new, but were a nightmare for the long haul