I saw that seller and hes got a lot of Ram 50 stuff but no wiring harness. I haven't messaged him about it because I wanted to find one locally. I'm just ready to part out chuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
Printable View
I saw that seller and hes got a lot of Ram 50 stuff but no wiring harness. I haven't messaged him about it because I wanted to find one locally. I'm just ready to part out chuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by pennyman1
MR50: Unkillable™Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeGirard
Everything worked except the turn signals after the fire lol I should have just left the wiring alone until I could find a complete 83 not 85 harness. =(Quote:
Originally Posted by noahwins
the truck in the posting looked intact under the hood. There seems to be a lot of our trucks in yards in wash state for some reason...
Come to the Evergreen State for your Mitsubishi Truck Parts. I will give you a tour of the biggest wrecking yards in the nation. :grin:
Actually, here is a image of part of our wrecking yard system which is owned by a great family that insist on pricing that are at recycle prices of the material only.
Attachment 13312
(click image to expand)
Their sister yard is a couple miles away from us.
That would be nice if I didn't live in SoCal lol. So I need a new starter for the 4x4 and I'm selling chuck to my friend who's going to make his own wiring harness and make a race truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMph
So I sold chuck to a friend for $200. He's going to strip him and build him into a race truck. Full cage welded doors and fun stuff like that. So I need a new starter for the 4x4. Do I have to get a Mitsubishi starter or can I get one off a Toyota or something fit?
dude what? i needed parts off it!!! lol what the heck
I still have my other parts truck in Hesperia. It has the front Springs and the window is on the 4x4 truck. The only thing I don't have is the Fender but I know a junkyard that has a ram 50 in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondabuilder
I never want to replace the stater ever again.....
So I had to remove the distributor and the rotor turned as I was pulling it out?! Do I have to time the engine now? Or do I need to set the rotor to match the engine? I have no clue I've never timed an engine before.
my D50 threw the timing belt today, we had to tow it home. I just tore apart everything and rebuilt all the timing and ignition timing, had to set it all again too.Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeGirard
its dead simple, man. much easier than you think it would be.
all you gotta do is pull the top pastic cover off the timing belt, use that nut to rotate the motor so the marks line up, then pop the distributer in, it has its own marks to line up as well. if the cam sprocket is at the timing mark, then it will start right up after u slide the distributor in the hole and line it up as well.
That is one of the reasons we tell everyone to change it if they just picked up a truck. You are like the 83,765 member to have that happen to them. Welcome to the broken belt club..
I didn't rotate the motor when I took the distributor out. All that moved was the rotor on the end of it and I put it back in the same position it was mounted in. I still not sure if I need to time it or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondabuilder
So I replaced the starter with a brand new one and got a new battery. Starter just clicks once and won't start. The negative battery cable got really hot. Should I replace the battery cables?
sounds like you wired something wrong. Battery cables usually don't cause that problem. Wire heat is a good chance that something is reversed.
Did you get a 3 wire starter or a 2 wire starter. Since you have an automatic, a 3 wire starter I think is required for the inhibitor switch so the vehicle will not start in anything but Park and sometimes with the brakes held down also. Anyway, trace your steps and check the manual carefully on your install. You don't want fire.
If the engine is at #1 TDC compression stroke, Line up the distributor markings. Look at the distributor gear, one tooth has a dot marked on it. Then match that dot with the distributor housing mark. The dizzy should now be pointed at #1. Hold the rotor and dizzy housing and insert the dizzy into block making sure the rotor does not turn without the housing turning with it. hold everything solid and find the spot that the dizzy can drop in and the rotor still remains pointed at the #1 plug on the cap.
It's a 3 wire starter. And I have it hooked up exactly the same as the other starter was. I have no clue why it won't start then. Is the wire not making good contact?
So I replaced the ground cable to the battery and cleaned the positive cable and put a new connector on it. I also checked the connections on the starter and there clean and connected correctly. What else could be wrong? Could the engine be seized?
So I'm really done with this truck. I'm ready to sell it and buy one that's running. Any suggestions as to why it won't start?
Get that cherry Plymouth Arrow for sale in Arizona on eBay Pennyman linked to.
So I listed my 4x4 on ebay andy some guy in texas said he would drive to cali and buy it for $1,100 with it not running! If I accept that then I can buy another running Mighty Max for the same price
fuckin A, take that deal!! I've seen running mitsus for sale around so cal for under 1k.
tell ya what, if you come up with that 1100, hit me up, ill help you find a truck and drive you there to inspect it and take it home
I've been thinking about it all day and I want something running so I'm ready to sell this truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondabuilder
So the truck hasn't sold yet. Does anybody have any idea as to why it won't start with a new starter, battery, battery cables, and new gas tank/fuel filter?