sounds like a good plan to me =)
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sounds like a good plan to me =)
https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/...35105294_n.jpg
Drove the Laser home in time for Christmas. Sat for three years, now runs and drives on her own power. Timing is good, engine sees boost and vac, trans shifts smoothly. I'm VERY grateful. Next we get her consistently reliable for daily driving, and then focus on upgrades to get her truly 'teack-ready' - road course racing (NASA). More to come...
Also, I tweaked my M/M MAF with hack concepts from the DSM, and FINALLY got that EGR light off. I have to re-dyno to confirm the effects to the a/f ratio, but the idle is way smooth and it feels good pulling in third.
Hey man by chance do you have a scanner that would read my truck code? Since you have a truck of your own I figured I would inquire
Go to the manuals section, 216 manuals post, get the Haynes Manual, go to page 6.26, the fault code table and instructions on how to read them with a simple analog Voltmeter are there.
I know I was told this before, but to be honest I forgot about it -.- Thanks for the reminder =). I will get on that as soon as I wake up. Thanks again
Go to the wiki and i posted a how to read your ecu codes with a $2 12v buzzer from radioshack.
Last time I said the EGR code was cleared, the CEL came back on. So far about 170 mi and still no CEL. Number of miles per tank is up, and this winter air makes the engine feel brand new. Next i'd like to do some solid maintenance and a few more upgrades... including that Paired Port Tri-Y Header from DG. #pieceBypiece
I got it thanks all. It twas the Airflow Sensor. Hopefully they have one out at the junkyard but I am not getting my hopes up
Slow going on the build while I'm searching for another income source... Next goal is to upgrade the exhaust - DG Paired Port Race Header, Hi-Flow Cat and (prob 2.25") Cat-Back.
Attachment 6974
BEFORE
Attachment 6975
AFTER
So after digging this up from the archives, I decided to try it. I wanted to keep function as close to OE as possible, and gratefully there was enough hose to just bypass the throttle body with no other mod needed. I only had to disconnect the intake manifold support and run the hose under it. Then I topped off the coolant and took a test drive. Haven't adjusted timing or anything, but so far so good - started, ran, and Temp Needle was on point. That's a good start, and we'll go from there.
any updates on that truck?
Just started a new job the beginning of this month so I'm rebuilding my "parts fund". I've played w the A/F setup enough to get about 23 mpg in the city on 91oct, but that's the best I've got for you at the moment. I think it's time for the Timing Belt/Water Pump service, so I'm pricing a full head refresh (w/upgraded springs) as step one.Quote:
Originally Posted by meandmit
It's still my daily so I stick to reliable stock platform performance tweaks until I get that Laser on the road reliably as backup. Thanks for checking on me though. Hopefully within the next few monthsI can revive this from being the most boring build thread known to man…
So my blower motor quit on me, and I decided to take it out and see if I could fix it rather than pony up the cash for a new one.
1st I checked voltage at the plug w my multimeter and had 12v solid in each position of the switch. So w switch good, I pulled the motor itself. I pause here to say that the third screw (phillips inside w 8mm outer head) is very (not) conveniently placed at the back of the assembly just above the hump of the wheel well. I had to take my time with a combi wrench and eventually got it out.
I jumped 12v direct to the motor - no dice. With the wires connected (but careful to keep them from touching and shorting) I tapped the side of the motor (like a starter) and presto. So motor's not dead, just tired...
Pics are briefly what I found inside the housing (just three phillips heads screws to open it). Years and miles of normal wear and tear - dust, gunk and corrosion. Scotch Brite, Wire Brush and carb clean later (and long story short), reassembled and reinstalled the working motor and I'm good to go. *Note* the slits in the gold thing holding the springs will allow space for the wires so you can compress the springs with the contact points for reassembly.
Good to go ***(except for this)*** Somehow, when everything was back together, position 2 of my fan switch no longer works... :confused1:
But I don't care. Cost me nothing but time for this fix, soooo I'll take it for now.
For all you guys with a bad blower but no $$, maybe this will get you by (and keep you warm or cool) until you can get a new one.
Laterz.
Crazy enough, the second position of the fan motor started working again on its own...:scratchheadyellow: Not sure when or why but, I'll take it.
Hi Mr. Finnie (I'm a fan of your work!) (And not a blower fan :cheesygrin: )
Probably the switch contacts finally rubbed away some schmutz.
Little miracles are just as important as the big ones :)
Thanks for the support Royster! Sorry I haven't been on the board lately. Fan Motor still going strong!
Nice job resurrecting your blower fan Finnie. I have saved vacuum cleaners and power tools with an armature in it by tearing it down and pulling the armature out of the centre of the motor, then using fine wet and dry sand paper to reface the copper conductors so they are smooth (worse case scenario I'll take a needle file to it first if there are significant grooves/high spots on it). Next I give the copper a good polish up and lastly remove all the debris from between the copper conductors as this stuff is partially conductive and will create bridges (not much point doing it beforehand as you're going to foul it during the refacing process). I gently stretch the retaining springs holding the brushes in place so they aren't as loose and tired when they're re-installed. Taa-daah, fresh electric motor!
Thanks Geezer! Now it's time to treat the engine like that... #IWish lol soon though.
Attachment 12017
Beginning of a custom airbox project. The difference in performance is not extreme yet, but very noticeable. Everything just happens more smoothly with the engine. Box is a transplant from a V6 Montero. Clips right to the top w the OE Mighty Max MAF. Box is deeper so more volume, and the box inlet is pointed at the grill air inlet pretty nicely. And w the OE pipe, the charge still gets to straighten out before the throttle body. More to come...
Oh and I finally got two rear tires and got the trans drained and filled, and the diff serviced w new pinion seal, diff cover gasket (RTV), and all Lucas Fluid. Soooooo, not super exciting maintenance to L0_0k at, but long overdue so I'm glad it happened.
This has been torturously slooooooooow progress up to this point. But slow progress is better than no progress.
So thanks for checking in and Stay Tuned! :thumbup:
good to see your back,how is the dsm
Thanks! Dsm is trans deficient right now. Need a replacement input shaft, or a donor FWD trans to get the shaft out of. (4cyl F5M33) Engine is fine but car is a no go. Plus it's still in VA right now with my mechanic. I'll get her home eventually...
Wow... *blows dust*. I'm surprised the lights still work in here. Is this thing on?
Thread from the dead! Soooo... what's the low down - you still in the game?
Man! There has been lots of changes, none of which include turbo, but yep - still Maxxing, same Max, and (despite these home stretch speed bumps) in a pretty good place. Where do I even pick this story up? When last we left our hero...
A lot of these posts will probably be flashbacks until I catch you up.