Yeah I'm still working on worming an S10 bar in the front, but it is just a wee bit too narrow and the mounting is odd. Chances are I am going to build a new system for the front end to adapt the bar.
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Yeah I'm still working on worming an S10 bar in the front, but it is just a wee bit too narrow and the mounting is odd. Chances are I am going to build a new system for the front end to adapt the bar.
just read the whole build. good stuff. I'm down in phoenix with a 4G63 swapped 73 galant wagon. Once yours is running on the new engine i'd love to see it!
Thank you! I wouldn't mind seeing your wagon too if you can manage. I've always wanted one but never able to catch a good deal on one. Maybe one day I will...Quote:
Originally Posted by incorporatedx
Well, it simply wouldn't be my build unless there are snags lol. Here are some page 13 pics and a very small update for the followers.
So back on Page 5 (post #103) I ran into a couple snags with the water pump and power steering mounting. Since this is a RWD application, the clocking of the Evo water pump puts the inlet right in front of the bracket blocking it. The solution was to cut the thermostat housing bracket and fab an elbow to mate the two. Since the block is RWD and not FWD, the castings are slightly different. There are no holes for the power steering pump to bolt to the block. The solution for that was adding a plate to the modified FWD mount and cutting down the Evo PS bracket to fit.
All of those were really no big deal, and once I have everything all assembled, I will make a post with all the details and happy little pics to explain what needs to be done to modify a RWD block to fit Evo 4-9 components. Again, this is ONLY for adding Evo 4-9 accessories and 4G64 accessories with the 2 belt system (basically anything FWD). If you used the factory accessories and such (AC/PS/Alt/WP) with the 3 belts as they are in the Montero Sport, you wouldn't run into these issues.
Here is the latest issue with fitment - the Alternator.
Attachment 13735
Now one thing I ran into a while ago (and couldn't figure out) was why my accessories were not lining up correctly. It finally hit me when I was trying to mount the Evo alternator - the oil pump is different on a RWD block. That was a rather interesting find because I have never seen a difference in pumps between G63/64/69 of the later series. They're all the same pump (older DSM series have some differences like 6/7 bolt, FWD/RWD, etc.). What I need to do now is go buy a new Evo oil pump and toss the Montero sport one.
For future builders that want to tackle this engine in the same style I am - You can NOT just trim the tab off to mount the alternator. The reason why is the tensioner mount machining on the oil pump protrudes too far. It would have to be machined down to fit (which is not recommended). If you just said "screw it" and left it alone, the serpentine belt would get shredded and go flying off every chance it could because it does not line up with the rest of the components when mounted to the RWD oil pump. If you are building on a budget and can't afford a new pump (understandable because an OEM pump is about $250 retail), you can either source a good used one (not recommended because you don't know the history/condition), OR you can buy a cheap-o pump, use the case only, and swap over the OEM pump gears and regulator for peace of mind. Those are a couple options.
So that is what I have for now. I'll keep this updated as I go.
It has been brought to my attention that I have not updated in a while....
Well - I have no updates. That's why hahaha. Between the upcoming summer shows I have to build for, and all the other pieces I'm currently undertaking, I have no time to play with my truck. I was going to do a fit check on my engine and take a few shots, but a client brought his Harley in for a build. My time is booked for a while, but hopefully something frees up soon so I can take some time to play with the truck.
That pesky work that pays the bills gets in the way all the time...
Hell yeah it does lol. But I really can't complain.... I love what I do, but damn I'm getting tired of staring at my engine in the corner lol.
Dude.....I know the feeling. Looking forward to seeing more whenever either of us gets back to it.
I just got a smoking deal on a trade to really amplify the balls of this engine. I'll have more once it all goes through. Gonna be a few weeks...
Good, wouldn't want it to be underpowered or anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merrill
I dont want to clutter up your thread, but here's a pic;
https://igcdn-photos-e-a.akamaihd.ne...24434799_n.jpg
here's a build thread for it;
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...t=46017&page=6
Converting the engine to work RWD does take some figuring, here's mine once it was ready, i used a 6 bolt 4G63 from the early 90's;
http://photos-d.ak.instagram.com/hph...55184840_n.jpg
^^I like it. Totally want one now....
So I had a bit of fun today. Along with all that fun came some cool discoveries for you swappers out there.
Lets start with the cool stuff....
Attachment 14100Attachment 14097Attachment 14098Attachment 14099
There it is in all its glory! One Evo powered Mighty Max (variant). Slides right in as if it were meant to be! I did make a couple really unique discoveries as well.
They are as follows...
Engine mounts:
Montero Sport 2.4 engine mounts (the lower/rubber portion that bolts to the chassis) are identical to the MM.
The actual bracket that bolts to the block is different. The difference is great, though. Montero sport block mounts move the engine forward to provide clearance which eliminates the need to jackass the install with hammer mods or cutting. This is a bolt-on solution for the swappers. You no longer need to make custom mounts - just find the MS block mounts/plates and have a good day.
Attachment 14101Attachment 14104
In addition, the tail shaft of the Montero Sport 5 speed sits about an inch rearward compared to the stock MM. This means the shifter will stay in the exact same place as stock if you use the MS tail shaft and shifter after moving the engine forward.
I have no info on the driveshaft. The reason why is I already had to modify mine to install my Ford 8.8. As such, I'm sure you still need to lengthen the driveshaft an inch to compensate for the engine position. Either way you slice it, that's 2 less mods you need to make since they can be bolted on as if they were stock.
Cam Position Sensor Vs. Heater Core
If everything was easy, hot blondes in bikini's would be doing it, right? Well this is one problem I need to find a solution to. The cam sensor directly interferes with the heater core tubes. This can be solved by phasing the sensor and reluctor, or finding another routing solution... I'll figure it out later and provide the solution.
Attachment 14102Attachment 14103
My Master Cylinder
This really only applies to the RHD community. Mitsubishi makes 2 versions of many master cylinders - Ones with ports on the right, and ones with ports on the left. I do have a giant custom intake manifold, but either way, find a master cylinder with its ports located on the right side. It makes for a much tidier installation and will not create an interference problem.
For the LHD community, use the LHD port master cylinder. This will give more space for your header.
I did have to trim down my intake manifold slightly for clearance, but there is still plenty of volume in the design without creating negative effect to cylinder #4.
My Header
I'm pretty sure I'm just going to have to rebuild it all from scratch. Of course I can "make it work" in its current design, but I'm just not totally satisfied with it. I did build it off of the truck to begin with. I'm pretty much dead on, but I just think it could look a bit cleaner.
That's all I got for now. Time to put the old 'n moldy back in.
That's good to know about the mounts :thumbup:
I'm seriously debating on finishing this by MOD. I'm not sure if I can get it done or not, but I'm thinking about it for sure.
Anyone else going to MOD this year?
Here are the part #s for the bolt-on solution to move the engine forward:
http://mitsubishiparts.net/media/ima.../6/6290160.gif
(Ref. #1) Right side mount - MD308249
(Ref. #2) Left side mount - MD322806
These are found on the '97-'99 Montero Sport 2.4 2wd. The rubber mou ts are exactly the same as the MM.
I can't find a breakdown or part number for the tail housing but that is also a part you might want to source. It will allow you to keep the shifter in the exact same location as your MM after moving everything forward. You could get away without using it, but this is an option for you. You will need to source the tail housing, shifter housing and shifter.
The driveshaft can either be lengthened - or - you can have a spacer machined that bolts on between the yoke flanges of the drive shaft and differential. It's up to you which one you want to go with.
MOD is this month correct? I would love to go(missing it again, wanted to make it to last years too) but my truck wont be don't until probably sometime next month.
MOD is Saturday, July 11. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be there this year. I know 3 of my clients will be attending, so I guess I have to lol.
hmm ok a little more time than I thought. I might make it there we shall see.
I really hope you do.... They might actually give MM's a section as opposed to peppering them in the crowd lol
Here is a bit of an update for what I am calling "MOD Mods"
My hood will eventually be useless with a big supercharger sticking through it. At this point, I figured I'd make a subtle mod to it for the time being. Just tossed in some vents...
Attachment 14188Attachment 14189Attachment 14190
Attachment 14192Attachment 14191Attachment 14193
Once again this year, I have no time for paint and body. I have my body mods list in order, but there is no way I can pull it off. I also don't want to show the crackhead paint job off. It wasn't good enough last year and it certainly isnt any better this year. What options do I have? Well - only slight modification. I spent 4 bucks on some flat black and slightly modified the paint job a little.
Attachment 14194Attachment 14195Attachment 14196
I think it looks pretty good.
Finally, I am currently building a roll cage for a 9th Gen FG4 Civic, but I goofed on the harness bar. I completely spaced the fact that I have to recess the driver's side harness bar on the Civic. Every rule book states that there are to be no grinding marks or modifications to roll bars/cages. I also have a great reputation for not side stepping any of my work. As such - a new main hood had to be bent from scratch. A mild loss of materials cost and time - yes. Worth it in the end to maintain my reputation - absolutely; I'll bend a dozen more if I have to.
I tried to sell it locally on a couple boards since the dimensions are a lot like other cars. It will fit in a bunch of them easily. The problem I soon discovered is there are not a lot of fabricators and builders on these local boards, so who the hell would want "just a main hoop" without rear bars, door bars, and other supports? If you can't build the rest yourself, it is pointless at any cost (even as only the cost of materials that I was listing it for).
Moving on to today... This morning I tossed it in the truck for the hell of it. It definitely doesn't fit as tightly as I bend my other cages, but it is not extremely sloppy either. It's workable for sure. I plan to toss on some door bars and roll to MOD with a roll bar in the truck.
Attachment 14197
I'll have more pics of this later. Here's the deal with the roll bar - I don't need it. I'm just tossing it in for the show. I'd still like to recoup my losses on the materials (which is about $150). If anyone is interested in a really cheap DOM bolt-in roll bar for a MM/D50, now would be the time to PM me. It will be available mid July. Obviously since my truck is RHD, the diagonal brace is backwards. If someone wants to buy this bar, I'll flip the main hoop around for LHD if needed (free of charge). All you need to pay is the price of shipping from Las Vegas, NV, plus $150 for the bar itself. For reference, I usually charge $750 for a spec built 4 point roll bar. This is a chance to get one for a MM for cheap!
That's all I have at the moment. I'll have more pics up later as things get built.
Is everyone ready for the most badass update yet!?!?!
Last night, I replaced my water pump. Oooohhh yeah. While that is the sickest mod anyone has ever seen...
I one-upped myself....
I noticed my tail light was out. You wanna know what I did about it....?
I replaced it!
I know you're all jealous of my maintenanced' out ride and all.... you don't have to say anything.... I know
:lol:
Seriously, that's all I've done lately lol. I'm too busy with everyone else's rides. Thanks for the PM's and messages from everyone checking for updates! I tried to make these updates as cool as possible lol.
Well I now my last few updates kinda suck, but I didn't think this thread would completely stall out lol.
I guess I'll just post up only the significant updates....
Many years of wrenching has taught me that no matter what color you want something to be, it only ends up turning black. I know that sounds like it was pulled straight from the pile of extremely pessimistic shit, but the true story behind it is nothing can escape the touch of the auto workers hands. Grease, oil, metal dust, dirt and grime all end up staining virtually every surface even after you wash your hands. It's as if you sweat dirt all the time. There's just no way around it.
I tried very hard over this past year and a half to keep my vibrant colored interior nice and clean. The trick, I thought, was to utilize materials that are easily cleaned (like leather or vinyl and smooth painted surfaces). My bright red leather seats, steering wheel and vinyl arm rests turned out to be the biggest culprits of dirt catching ugliness. It seemed no matter how hard I scrubbed at them, they would never really get clean like they were after I originally installed them. The steering wheel itself suffered the worst when faced with my "Abrasive Hand Syndrome" after a long day of metal work.
It seemed as if I was not going to keep my bright red accented interior around much longer. The seats were starting to turn to maroon from the original bright red. The steering wheel was just about the same. The parts that did last quite well was the white painted surfaces. Of course a black stain is beyond accentuated on a white surface, but all I had to do was wipe it off. I had to rethink the surface and rethink the color. This offers an opportunity to play around with the whole look and vibe of the interior as well.
A few weeks ago, a client gave me a Leonard Volanti steering wheel he had sitting around for years. I particularly liked it because it is acrylic and it offered up a different color to the interior: Baby Blue.
Tossing the red and replacing with baby blue meant I had to add a couple more matching accents. A few updates ago, I mentioned goofing on the harness bar section of a main hoop built for a FG4 Civic. It is a loose fit for my truck, but it will do for now. I figured it would be the perfect match for the baby blue steering wheel. I modified the door bars only slightly to bring them up to shoulder height, but still allow the arm rest to clear and maintain a bit of comfort. The door bars just help hold the main hoop in place in this design, so I had a bit of design wiggle room.
There was no way I was going to install baby blue seats into my truck. It's a nice color, but I don't like it that much. I figured they would better match the black dash. One issue I naturally have is a "space tolerance" (if you will). I'm almost 6'3" tall and my fitment in this standard cab with a roll cage was extremely tight with the last seats, even though they were lower than the factory bench. In order to run the cage, I needed to sit even lower than the already low buckets. NRG recently came out with a Rally style bucket which features an extremely low sitting position, and an "anti-submarine" front bolster. They are also only available in black. I figured I'd give them a shot. Installation meant fabricating a new set of seat brackets all together, but that's no big deal.
Now we get to an annual show known as EOS Showcase. EOS is a non-profit organization that was established to raise school supply donations that benefit underprivileged children in Southern Nevada. It was requested of my by a few friends and clients that I attend. Personally I feel my truck is nowhere near ready to sit in a show with such fine vehicles, but I support the cause and figured "why not"? Besides, I figured this would be a decent opportunity to see where my truck really stands as far as interest and what not.
I really didn't expect to win anything as far as trophies or prizes (which I didn't), but all in all, it was a great show and I did get to meet a few enthusiasts and talk with a pretty decent crown about the MM. It was a great turnout.
That's all I have for now.
+284 views in 23 hours but no comments :(
I don't see why you thought your truck didn't belong there - it looks really good for under construction - you can't tell from the outside...
we may not comment as we're all in awe of your build and don't know what to say other the WOW!!!!
I think your truck belonged there, too. No reason for it not to! My dad once told a story of a car that was done on the outside, even underneath 100% but the interior wasn't 'show ready' yet. Him & the guys took it to the show anyway and put up brown paper in the insides of all the windows so nobody could see the 'unfinished' inside - the car ended up winning some sort of prize, forget what but it did... paint or customization (chopped/sectioned etc). So yeah.
AND if you take your truck again next year a lot of people will remember it hey yeah wasn't this truck --- blah blah yep! SWEET! Cool, right on, etc. I'm glad you took it, looks damn good as-is ;)
Love the bar *though I'd tie the dog to it inside anyways
Everything ends up black & if it's already black it gets white fuzzy floaty things stuck to it. No winning. Pick whatever color you don't hate to clean all the time.
Have a charcoal grey dash/seats/carpet/etc. in a car & every time I'm at a stoplight I'm wiping white (??? something) dust type stuff like miniature bits of cotton off the dang dash & even by the gages. Ridiculous. Static or some BS. IDK! all leather seats so it's not like cheap seats are full of dust or anything. Stuff happens.
Your truck looks darn good man. Oh and if those seats don't give you enough room maybe look at the seats out of a lotus elise (not joking) those dang seats are the thinnest all around seats I've seen in person, maybe = max leg room? No telling how uncomfy they are though ...
Thanks for the compliments.
I'm not really chasing kudos on this, but it's cool to read. I just like to car talk is all. Lately it's been like talking to myself lol.
I do love my truck, but I just don't see it as ready as I'd like it to be. It looks fine in pics, and in person, but I just have a mental image of it and it currently doesn't match lol.
I'm very familiar with the Lotus seats. I had to install a pair into my client's 4 rotor RX-7 recently because there is very little space inside. They wouldn't fir too well inside the truck with the roll bar in because they have a serious amount of lay-back. My knees would be touching the dash lol. I'd definitely rock them otherwise.
Hopefully by next year I'll reach my goals with the truck. I'm just beyond pressed for time right now with other builds. It's getting into SEMA crunch time.
gets meaner every time i check the thread. digging the new colors for the interior too.
Nothing wrong with talking to yourself so long as it's not at the doc's office ;)
I know what you mean about that mental image of what it should look like... will look like. I do the same dang thing here with so many things, from the house to the garden to the truck & car. I've found after a while it gets easier just taking your time with improvements since you can look at things however you want! Besides that gives you time to think what about if I do this... or that & end up better in the long run.
lol true story. I've just been writing a lot of blogs and making a lot of vids lately. There's been a ton of talking to myself hahaha.
I'm been considering a radical new direction with the truck for a while now. It's just a matter of pulling the trigger and making it happen is all.
First thing i do every time i come to this forum is come check the progress on your truck lol. Always love seeing the amazing things you do to solve problems that come up. I think most here feel that too many questions will distract you and make it harder to follow the progress lol.
The more questions - the merry.
Think of it this way, if I don't explain something enough, and someone is either not a member, or too shy to speak up, or whatever the case - you would be helping them by posting up a question. It might be the same for lots of readers.
Distractions are few and far between for me. The only thing that really derails progress on a build thread is running off topic.
So the cool news, I think I may have an open window to get my swap finished and installed soon. I'll keep it updated as I go!
This year I decided to dress up the front a bit and have a little fun. I' had some left over steel tubing from a previous build, so I decided to update the front a bit. The 93+ front bumper is my favorite out of all the MM front ends, but the brackets I built years ago didn't really do anything except hold the bumper up where it needed to be. It offered no safety at all, but then again, it's not like the factory ones are much better haha.
I decided to build up a nice little combo piece that would offer up better protection in the unfortunate event of a collision, and hold the bumper on the truck. This could have been anything to be hidden behind the bumper, but I really wanted something to show off. I decided to go with dual purpose a Bash Bar design.
Bash bars are very simple in their own design. All one really needs is a few tubes and a mounting location to make one. In this instance, I wanted the Bash Bar to be tucked away and completely hidden under the bumper cover. I would like it to not be seen unless I take the cover off. This required a bit of clever fab work to make the Bash Bar take the shape of the bumper itself.
While I was putting it together, I figured I might as well have something more than "just some tubes" to show off once the cover was removed. Since the Bash Bar is designed to take the general shape of the bumper, I decided to make it look somewhat like a bumper when the bumper cover is removed. This also gives the viewer something to stare at while the bumper cover is removed.
I believe in practicality (for the most part haha). The idea of having a handful of tools to pull the bumper cover off sounds a little impractical to me. I really don't know when I'll really "need" to pull the cover off in only a few seconds, but the ability to do it is appealing, and makes sense. Nothing really says "race car" like actual race car parts. Dzus fasteners can be found all over the racing scene. They can even be found holding most cars together. The genius of a Dzus fastener is that they only require a flat shaped object (screw driver, a coin, or a key) to give it a quater of a turn to pop it out. They sit flush with the panel they are mounted to, and they hold up well. I decided to use 4 of them to mount the bumper cover to the Bash Bar itself. The result is nice and clean, and the cover can be off in only a few seconds.
Here are some of my favorite shots of everything all put together.
Finally, I found a deal I like on a set of wheels. There was really nothing wrong with my 17" Enkei's, but I plan to get stupid on my brakes again and jump up from the 12" rotors up front to a set of 14" rotors. This will require bigger wheels. In addition to that, I really wanted something a little less "hover craft" on the truck. I wanted a decent lip on the wheels to fill the gap a bit. The result s a set of 18" XXR wheels. They're cheap, but they'll do for now. Once I get more build time, I'll definitely switch up a higher quality wheel.
That's all I really have for now. I do have a few other pieces to build for the truck which I will post up at some point. Hopefully it wont take as long to update as this time.
My hat off to you Merrill, that is some very clever and well executed fab work on your bash bar. No wonder it has been a while since your last update. Now you're gonna have to detail the sub frame behind the front bar lol. It looks naked back there. What about the front indicator housings? Are there any legal issues with not having those connected while driving?
Love to see some ideas for the rear, I need to do something there.
Thanks! It's looking like I'll just barely have the time to build my intercooler and oil cooler setup which will fill that space in nicely. I just started on it tonight. Im converting the corner lights to dual filament bulbs for the indicators and running lamps. The front lenses will go clear to serve as fog lights while the bumper cover is attached. Technically it is illegal here not having them, but I have yet to receive a citation for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer101
I have something pretty wicked planned out for the rear. I have to buy my sheet metal brake before I can make it happen though. It looks cool in my mind so far haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by meandmit
That bumper is serious stuff man:thumbup:
Are the stars press cut using a dye? Id like to see the mitsu diamond logo like that.
The stars are dimple die panels which are CNC laser cut. I get the panels from one of my sponsors called IHeartGussets.
This is where it gets really cool, but really sad.
I managed to find the time to build my intercooler and il cooler setup. It was so awesome to see it come together so quickly after getting it all drafted up and calculated for the truck. It was so perfect.
The day after I finished the oil cooler bracket/latch support, I was involved in a collision. The part that sucks is the other driver was at fault, but said she doesn't have insurance, and none was provided on the report. It has turned into an investigation, and it's looking like the truck is a gonner. I'll keep it updated as I know more.
Here are the pics of the intercooler and oil cooler systems.
Attachment 15386Attachment 15387Attachment 15388Attachment 15389Attachment 15390Attachment 15391Attachment 15392Attachment 15393Attachment 15394Attachment 15395
This is the last pic of everything assembled. All I was waiting on was my oil cooler relocation pieces to arrive so I can finish mock-up and get the assembly pressure tested and coated. It was taken the day before the collision.
I always try to look at the bright side of everything. It sure beats sulking in misery for ever. The bright side is I was able to collect data to further back up the design behind my products. The bash bar did exactly what it was supposed to do which is bend ONLY the mounting brackets. That means the brackets themselves, about $5 worth of steel, can be rebuilt and reinstalled to the Bash Bar without the bash bar needing to be completely rebuilt.
The best news about all the data collected from this collision is calculating the damage based on a rather "unrealistic" circumstance. Bash Bars are primarily used in racing where there is contact to another vehicle or wall - not necessarily a collision. I T-boned the car that I was involved in the collision with. After running the math on it, I exceeded the average contact load on a bash bar and the intended damage remains the same. That is fantastic news regarding design and engineering principals.
The second bright side I see here is the intercooler is undamaged due to the design of the front end. Most of this is due to the design of the Mighty Max core support and how it impacts, but the intercooler was mounted to the sheet metal of the core support just like the radiator. The sheet metal is easily deformed which means the intercooler was simply pushed back. The oil cooler itself is destroyed, but oh well. A new Setrab Oil Cooler is about $150 or so.
Here are some shots of the accident itself
While you might be looking at the pics and thinking something like: "Well, that doesn't look so bad."
You're right. It doesn't look that bad, but unfortunately lurking beneath the twisted metal is the real damage. I hit a Cadillac at the left rear door (mostly), but the C-Pillar of the car is what caused the whole right side of my truck to get pushed rearward about 4-5 inches at the top front corner where the corner light is. The whole right side of the Mighty Max structure is crushed. My door doesn't even open and close correctly anymore.
While it may be repaired, and it is not out of my ability to do, I'll lose entirely too much money and time in the end to only end up with a salvage titled vehicle. I have to assume that's all I will end up with since the other driver is not insured. Of course, I'm still waiting on the answer from the insurance company.
I'll keep everyone up to date on the details as I get them!
Well that sucks big time. I know the feeling as I hit a Jeep and screwed up my cab pretty bad(He was charged for causing it). Stripped all the parts off then was lucky enough to find a rust free cab to rebuild the truck. Now granted I did strip the truck to the frame and went overboard with the rebuild. I don't know how your insurance works but I settled for 7/8th the write off value and the truck didn't get a salvage or write off title.So another bright side you can (maybe) change some of the things you didn't like about the first build :)
I'm covered, but they don't cover my truck because I didn't have collision coverage. If I do another build on a MM, I will probably go way overboard as well lol. We'll see what happens. It all depends on which one makes me lose the least amount of money. I still need a truck to run my business,and every day I don't have one, I lose more and more. My entire build schedule with my clients and everything else has been delayed big time. I likely can't afford to down the truck for a long period of time to repair it or build another one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordubishi
That's not so bad. Just buy it back from the insurance company if they total it. Then rebuild it. But do it nice. Then get it appraised and get an agreed value policy. Yes it will cost you but then it's covered. I could only get my value up to 150,000 on the truck.
That is terrible news Merrill. At least you had the foresight to drive with 3rd party insurance - even more so was the fact that you had designed and installed the bash bar when you did. Insurance is scammy at the best of times and they probably would've rejected your claim for anything that wasn't stock on your MM. Hopefully you'll find a suitable truck to work with. You have poured so much into your MM and it's a shame that it looks like this now...
Just curious to what would be a better build for my mm? 4g63 or 4g64. Would like a high review motor and turbo.
I'm guessing you got an auto correct and it ambushed your post - you mean a high revving motor? Might be a better question on another thread - more than likely there is already an existing one here. Me personally? The 4G63 6 bolt twin cam turbo engine. More support in regards to info and aftermarket parts. I read somewhere the 6 bolt bottom ends are beefier and these engines can make big numbers when tuned.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiteshotrodshop
That all depends on how you build it. Technically, neither is really better than the other. I used a 4G64 block with Evo components, while others will use a full DSM 4g63. Some build 4G64 6 bolt blocks with DOHC heads.... It's really up to you and your abilities. I've built and seen dozensof hybrid combinations hit record breaking numbers in dozens of variants. It's all up to how you build it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiteshotrodshop
The biggest hurdle you will have to conquer is the transmission. You have to find the right trans for the block you use, and there are a few other little snags here and there depending on the hybrid/variant build you chose. In my case, I had to make a half a dozen adjustments to the front accessories of my block to mate up all the Evo accessories to the block. I also had to modify and change brackets and coolant tubes just to make it RWD compatible.
Not to hijack. My build has a full dsm drop in if you want to see that. But just like Merrill said there are a lot of different options for these trucks. Some more work than others. So plan ahead and start building. Have a goal in mind first or you will spend a lot of money on things you might not need. Once again did not mean to hijack your thread.
You didn't hijack... it's all good.
So your truck is going bye bye and I see youre selling off parts.......but are u gonna get another max and finish where u left off?
Not sure yet. All depends on what I find and what I feel like buying.Quote:
Originally Posted by crvtec90
I know that this whole sorry story is still pretty green but will you be entitled to financial compensation from the negligent party involved? We had a vehicle accident case a few years ago where the owner of a BMW claimed added damages for 'emotional loss' due to his personal investment in his car. He actually won further compensation. Laws here have changed in regards to vehicle collisions. Insurance companies were able to weasel out of paying full entitlements by claiming that by driving on the roads you were automatically partly responsible for any loss or damages, cutting out a percentage of payment (I got burnt by this when my Lancer fastback got hosed - I lost 10% of my entitlement :shakehead:). They got away with this for a long time until the courts clamped down on them.
So I haven't been on here in over a year I guess. Lots of people keep writing in and asking about the truck and all that good stuff. Just wanted to say thanks for all the comments and messages from all over about the build and such. I can't believe how many views this thread has had.
Guess you should get busy and update your fans.Quote:
Originally Posted by Merrill