Bring that accord to the 'burgh and you won't have anything to worry about scraping- you will surgically remove it in 10 minutes of arriving here - and thats a good day without construction zones.
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Bring that accord to the 'burgh and you won't have anything to worry about scraping- you will surgically remove it in 10 minutes of arriving here - and thats a good day without construction zones.
lol I believe it. The beauty of coilovers- any height problem can be resolved within minutes. As it sits right now, it'll 3 wheel! :))
my box full of win
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2216.jpg
got everything done last night except tie rods. I'll save those for another day
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2217.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2218.jpg
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http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2220.jpg
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rear camber arms
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2270.jpg
Rear sway bushings
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2268.jpg
Setting the rear camber
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Also bought wheels
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2278.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2283.jpg
Guess I can update this. The car's had it's ups and downs over the past few months. Re-finished the wheels and had tires put on
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...1ED6B092A6.jpg
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Shortly after my steering rack went out. Put in a re-man from a local auto parts store that leaked, replaced with another re-man that also leaked. Finally got a good one in now. So this is it's 4th steering rack now
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...136FF21146.jpg
Ran great for a little while then my axles went out. Replaced with brand new ones I got off the internet and developed a bad vibration in the front end. The brand new axles didn't last but 150 miles before they were trashed again. Got some re-man's from the autoparts store and they worked great. While I was in there I also did brand new hubs and wheel bearings with extended wheel studs. Also did lower control arm bushings and lower strut bushings in polyurethane. Also cut my rotors with the brake lathe at work so they're nice and new again.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...FD611A71FA.jpg
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Ran great after that for a little while
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http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...n/SAM_2421.jpg
Then after all that work fixing everything under the car to be like new. The timing belt broke
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...7A9F5F91A8.jpg
The bearings had fallen out of the water pump causing the belt to break
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...9BF4BF33BD.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...93E2A379D0.jpg
Of course it's an interference engine so now all the valves in the head are bent. Not wanting to do much with this engine the car is sitting until I can afford a jdm H22 to drop in it. Should be early next year. In the mean time I figured I'd do some wire tucking and also move the battery to the trunk.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...F7509F2988.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...11117D2062.jpg
before
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during
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...ED1209F037.jpg
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after
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...FB02556958.jpg
That's it for now. Gonna sit like this until I can get my engine. May work on some of the body work but who knows.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...B0BF67A053.jpg
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Go with a 2.5 or 3.0L V6 :P
that would be nice! I've seen the 2.5 vtec swap done before, requires custom mounts and axles and all kinds of other jazz. I'm going with the H22 for simplicity. It drops right in using my wire harness, mounts, tranny and everything. Was gonna use the prelude transmission to since it's shorter gear ration and lsd. But since I just put new axles in it I'm gonna use mine for now. Will probably end up using the prelude trans whenever I need axles again or start having problems with my current trans.
went to a party tonight and drank a bunch of someone else's beer. Then this happened
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http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...DE73F4E35B.jpg
Ever thought of a hybrid motor? Just buying a head and leaving the f22 block? Hmotorsonline were good last time I ordered from them. It's been a few years of course.
This is why you should not drink beer.
silly Honda drivers..... A hybrid is 2 different parentages combining to make an offspring.......... A honda powered honda is still a honda. now a Ford in a Mitsubishi is a hybrid and completely nuts :))
wouldn't a hybrid honda in a honda be a transplant?
never thought about just swapping the heads. I planned on buying from hmotorsonline as well. Heard lots of good things about them. Seperated the trans today and pulled the clutch and flywheel. Defintely time for a new clutch. Also found a large crack in the throwout bearing
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...D8720D1727.jpg
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Don't destroy that input shaft. there like $1500 if you can find them. A buddy of mine had the barrings go bad. But it did not destroy the shaft. Otherwise it's worth more then the car it's self.
The shaft itself looks fine. I had some noise one time that sounded like bearing noise. It went away once I swapped over to Amsoil MTF. Not sure how the throwout bearing got the crack in it, but it may have been related to the noise I was having.
You can thank all the jap hot rodder guys for burning up all the shafts and driving up the price.
lookin great so far! man i miss my cb7.. its been like 10 yrs. since i had one. lol
i'd suggest drop in a H22a4 from a bb6.. if u can get ur hands on motor+tranny combo from the Prelude SH it comes w/ ATTS. it takes some $$$ but not as much as the j35 swap from the TL type S (which would be insane in that accord btw) LOL regardless, with either of these 2 options u would have a killer cb7.
Better off with a h22a - the h22a4 swap becomes a real pain when you eliminate the ATTS scrap - just helped a friend swap the h22a4 combo into a 95 prelude - the plate drawing for the half shaft conversion he got off the internet was off by a 1/4 to 3/8 inch in 2 directions and required the motor to go to the plate fab guy to get it right. Car now needs to go to the tuner for dialin in the spring.
I'm going with an obd1 h22a. drops right in no prob. Just have to wire the vtec and the iab's since the old motor was an f22a4 with no iab's. But I can get the iab harness from an f22a6 junkyard motor. I come across them every once in a while. I've since cleaned and painted the stock trans
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Pulled the wire harness from the old motor which I'll be using on the new one along with my stock fuel rail since the jdm h22a fuel inlet is on the opposite side (otherwise the rails are the same)
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Pulled the intake and head just to see what it looked like in there. Not to bad, and visually only 4 valves appeared to have made contact. Though they're all bent.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...A51874C0FE.jpg
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I may end up keeping this motor and re-building it for a spare. Not sure yet.
looks good. yeah def. not a bad idea to rebuild it and have that f22 as a spare.. they're reliable motors overall. good candidate for boost if u ever decide to go that route :thumbup:
Finally came across some fogs in the junkyard. Never seen a set before so I got them with both brackets, complete harness and dash switch.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...EEA32DEF4B.jpg
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^ those look like they in pretty decent shape.. not easy to come by..especially w/ da complete harness and all that. glass or plastic?
They're plastic lens. I think the jdm ones are glass though. After a good wetsand and polish on the lenses, they should look pretty nice. I pretty much stole them. Online they go anywhere from 250-400. I got everything for $47