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Ok thanks. Now I'm 100% committed to doing this swap I'm currently saving up for it.I wanna know what would be the best way to do this financially and mechanically? Should I buy a used 4g63t that comes with everything wiring ecu ect.and rebuild it.(send it to a specialist)or buy a crate engine and search around for everything that it doesn't come with?i come from a small town in Hawaii and its almost impossible to find parts down here! So purchasing a used one after shipping comes out close to what a crate one costs.But the crate engine doesn't come with everything,so I'm stuck on this part I just wanna make sure I spend my money right for this.SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS!
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I'd make a list of everything you think you need, and look online for pricing, then compare that with the cost of the crate engine is. You might could buy a JDM galant import engine with harness and such for your needs and be better off. Many times these are low mileage, and come with most of the wiring harness, ECU, etc. Sometimes they cut the harness so be leary of this in your search (you may be able to use the cut harness and wire into yours though).
It really depends on how you want to go about it, and how much money you have to spend. You may do better to just keep your eye out for a DSM and buy it on the cheap...
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I might have found a 4g63 eclipse motor still waiting for the guy to get back to me.he did say its a non turbo just waiting to find out what year. If it is a from a 90-92.5 eclipse is it worth buying and then buying a turbo kit or should I just look for a motor that's comes with turbo?
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It can be done, the pistons and cams are different on the NA ones. As well as the block doesn't have oil squirters... I'd just wait and get what you need.
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I'd definitely wait for a turbo motor, its always better to start off with the right stuff from the get go.
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Yah definetly makes more sense to get a turbo one! How can I identify a non turbo from one that has a stock turbo?
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Driver side under intake will have hexagon sensor in block, that is a knock sensor which only turbo motors have. I'll try to think of some more ways to identify and let you know.
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I guess the n/t blocks are tapped for the knock sensor but in a slightly different location.
Some other ways to tell:
Water pump pipe doesn't have outlet right behind wp for oil-water cooler
Lower therm housing doesn't have spot for oil-water cooler line
Back pass side of head blocked off where stock turbo oil line feed would go
No spot on pass side of oil pan for turbo oil drain(easiest way to tell I'm thinking)
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Oil pan would also have a return line from the turbo. Cheapest route is to find a running parts car with damage. Emphasis on running. Lol. Dealership quoted me $350~$400 for an engine harness few years ago. Cleaner you want the install to look, expect to spend more.
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I didn't know u can get a new wiring harness from the factory?
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Mitsubishi dealership. These cars have been obsolete so inquire if still availible.
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Ok I'll try giving a call
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If you get a cheap donor car that runs, you will have almost everything you need. Just need to buy a clutch and intercooler piping, that's if you have the km132 5 speed trans with the 2.0 engine.
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Tahini hoping to get a cheap donor car but being in Hawaii it's really hard to find! There is this salvage yard that I contacted in the mainland that could send me the motor,wiring,ecu,ect! So that might b the route I'm looking at if I don't come across a cheap donor car!
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Weird. I'm on Oahu and was able to find one for $900. :s keep your hopes up and be patient.
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Yah Oahu has way more chance of finding a donor car then big island there's a few here in Hilo but nobody wants to sell!i actually had to get my 89 ram50 from Oahu because everyone down here just didn't want to sell theirs! Next time I'm on Oahu ill try looking for one, maybe ill get lucky in the mean time ill keep praying to find one.
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If it comes down to it, thedsmgraveyard.com has motors ready to drop in. Be advised they have some negative feedback since they opened. Maperformance sells blocks and heads but not complete. You might also get lucky in dsmtuners.com/classifieds. Lots of people part out their cars instead of sell as a whole.
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Here's what I've been working on lately, a big brake kit for our trucks. I'm going to be using 3000gt VR4 4 piston calipers and 12.5" rotors. I've almost got it finished, I have my test bracket made and it all lines up pretty good, just need to make my final version for both sides. I'm planning on making a setup for 6-lug too as my buddy plans to keep his truck 6 lug and wants a kit. Hit me up if you guys have any questions.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...psc90012c0.jpg
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Thats a good start, but you need to get a caliper that will use more of the rotor - that one is too narrow and may cause unwanted side loading of the caliper brackets due to the tendency to fling it off the rotor at high speeds. More pad surface area means better braking.
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The rotor is using all the pad surface area, but I understand what you are saying and already thought about that. Also the rotor is only .5 in diameter bigger then the stock 3kgt rotor. There is another guy running a similar setup on a Toyota with no issues. If these calipers can stop a huge and heavy 3kgt then it should have no problem with the truck. If anything I'll go down to a little smaller rotor later on when I go with a custom Wildwood rotor and hat combo.
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I like this mod, though I kind of see what Pennyman is explaining. I can see both views though, but the photo sure looks like you could use a larger caliper to utilize that enormous rotor disk space area you have.
The small issues I see are possible balancing of the rotors and the bearing dust covers and heat buildup. Those 2 extra holes drilled on rotor hubs must be a balance drilling right? Another question I am thinking...are those rotors vented rotors? From this angle I don't see the inner vents and that's why I asked. If the rotor are not vented centers... are you going to install air vented dust covers to help cool them off? I think the 6 lug would be a great idea since the trucks are 6. All in all I like the mod, especially with that massive rotor surface area.
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The two holes are to secure the rotor to the hub. Yes the rotors are vented. If you Google pics of the stock 3kgt vr4 brake setup you will see it does not use the full rotor surface area just the same as my setup. I see where you guys are coming from and I thank you for the feedback but I have no doubts it will be fine and perform awesomely. I will be doing a 6 lug setup soon as my friend is really wanting to do it after seeing my setup.
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Cool, thanks. I really like this brake mod you got going. I have enough wrecking yards around here to find the parts pretty easily.
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No problem these rotors are crown Vic rotors. For the 6 lug it seems the 02ish Silverado 1500 rotors would be a good fit.
